Your really dealing with two thing, and the foremost is to prevent flash over from setting off the other cylinders.

The second, is the bore butter keeps the fouling in the barrel soft, so the next bullet can push that fouling out as it deposits another layer of fouling.

Bore butter is cheap enough to buy, buy you can make is for pennies on the dollars instead.   Same goes for felt wads with a punch, and soaking them in DIY bore butter keeps the price down on such as well.

So starting from the top, make sure that the ball size you are using, is the correct size for the cylinder in the pistol.  If the ball is not being slightly shaved by the front of the cylinder as you are seating it into the cylinder, then ball size is too small from the start.  You run into this, and even with a bore butter soaked patch under the bullet, you really need to add more bore butter over the bullet to make dam sure you don't get a flash over the reaches the next cylinder to set them off as well.

Now if you do have the correct size ball for the cylinder, hence if being shaved by each cylinder  all the way around as you are seating them, then patch soaked in bore butter under the bullet will be fine. If you have to ask, take a look at the seating rod, and you should have 5 rings of lead on it as you are done loading the pistol (don't load the pistol to 6 rounds, since you don't want to have the hammer down on a loaded cylinder if the pistol does not have a Hammer block, which most don't).

As for paper patch loading, same/ same with the bullet begin the correct size to start with, and even with this since you don't have Bore butter patch to seal off the powder from a possible flash over problem, Bore butter the cylinder in front of the bullet to prevent the chance of a flash over problems.

DYI bore butter,

• 1 part bees wax (any hobby store). Note,  Not paraffin wax that the wife will use for making chocolate or candles!!!!
• 4 parts Olive oil. Note Crisco, lard, or standard vegetable oils end up with the bore butter being a touch to runner in the summer heat.
• Dash of food color (various colors depending on my mood)
• Dash of Spearmint/Wintergreen/Peppermint oil (whatever the wife won't miss)

As it cooling down from heating it up to combine the above (container inside a pan of with boiling water in a pan, break out a whisk to whip it up so add a touch of air in it to allow to be spread easier when you are applying it out of the storage jar  (wife cake mixer works well when she is away)  The Spearmint/Wintergreen/Peppermint oil is just for smell/if you use it as limp balm/ if get it in your mouth, so it smells/tastes good as well.

As for the drill ideal to make the wads, looks to work well, but I just use a Arbor press with a home made cutters I made on the lathe to make wads instead.  hence I want the wads to be a touch larger than the cylinder bores, so I get a good seal of the bores to prevent flash over problems.  When using the wads as fillers in metallic loads Bullets get lube with bore butter in the wax grooves), same thing as well, but just not lubed on the heaver side instead.  As for the felt, if the wife does not have it in here stuff to loot from, Walmart carries it in the sewing section is if you don't want to have to wait on snail mail instead.

To lube the wads, just warm up the bore buffer, break out a large wall paper syringe or dropper, and this is a good way to lube the wads without over saturating them instead.
Note: turkey baster works well too, but again, something you have to wait for the wife to be away so she does not catch you using her kitchen stuff for gun related isntead.

And with GOEX getting more and more expensive, had have been making my own BP as well.

About the only thing that I don't make is primers and primer caps, since your dealing with a true explosive in all the scene of it (fulminate mercury), and will get you on watch lists very quickly buying the needed materials for primer mix to begin with, plus a quick way to blow yourself up as well.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/CyA1mJTV3WY[/youtube]

Brave man and play the hold me beer game,  hence since the Ruger Old Army requires .457" round ball, to much of a chance of a .454" ball sneaking into the works  to cause a flash over problem .

Plus, from the owners Ruger's owners manual.
Page 15.

F.    Using one of the commercially available bullet greases or other stiff
grease (some automotive water pump greases have proven satisfactory),
apply a liberal coating of grease to each chamber mouth so as to cover
the bullet and seal the chamber. The purpose of this is twofold:
1.   To decrease leading and barrel fouling, and:
2.   To reduce the possibility of multi-chamber discharge (“flash over”)
when firing.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/oldArmy.pdf

A, You can still get a flash over even with the correct ball size, since the ball could be dented, and not get a full cut/seal over the powder when seated.

B, The DYI wonder lube patches under bullet keeps the fouling soft in the barrel to allow the pistol to shoot tighter-longer, plus home made bore butter wads only cost about a penny in the grand scheme of thing as well.

If nothing else, give them a try just because they will make the pistol shoot tigher for a longer amount of time by keeping the fouling in the barrel soft between shots, plus keep the barrel from leading up so quickly instead.