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Posted: 1/29/2023 9:25:57 AM EDT
I have a couple trade-in revolvers I'm working on that need to either be polished up or bead blasted. Leaning towards the bead blasting. I really like the nice satin finish of the CS-1's and that would be what I'm shooting for.

Has anyone here finished a stainless gun with glass beads? I'm really wondering if the 50# 80-grit bucket I have from HF is the right stuff, or if I'm going to need a finer crushed glass to get what I'm looking for. I plan on testing the handle area but thought I'd ask here in hopes of eliminating a bunch of trial and error.
Link Posted: 1/29/2023 9:50:34 AM EDT
[#1]
I will be following to see recommendations. I've got a GP100 I am considering this for, or cerakoted.
Link Posted: 1/29/2023 12:31:19 PM EDT
[#2]
No it’s not.
I am not an expert, but I’ve blasted several barrels to make them matte.  I bought some much finer grit from Brownells I think (it’s been years).  A coarse grit will make it sparkly.  If you want a flatter finish, get something over 120 I think. I bought some stainless fender washers and tested on those first.
Link Posted: 1/29/2023 2:34:29 PM EDT
[#3]
That’s kinda what I figured. The HF stuff isn’t really beads, it’s looks pretty jagged. I’ll try and find something finer.
Link Posted: 1/30/2023 8:50:36 AM EDT
[#4]
I hadn't even thought to check Brownells. 50# of 270+ grit for 93.50 + 12.50 to ship isn't too bad. I expected shipping to be much more. I'll probably give that a shot and report back. These are both $300 project revolvers that I was trying not to sink of bunch of cash into. Maybe I can find some more guns to shoot with the stuff...
Link Posted: 2/5/2023 11:11:38 AM EDT
[#5]
I would go for as fine of a grit as I could find.
I would also use smooth glass bead as opposed to a rough aluminum oxide (or other types of rough media)
The rougher the grit, the rougher the surface finish will be, and the more dirt, carbon, and fouling it will hold (plus dirty finger prints will show).
I have even used baking soda as a blasting media before, for a very smooth but matte finish before bluing.
Baking soda is actually a common blasting media for fragile or delicate parts. (google search soda blasting).
I bought a large bag of arm and hammer brand at lowes.
Link Posted: 2/5/2023 11:26:20 AM EDT
[#6]
I ended up ordering some 200 grit glass from eBay and returning the HF stuff. I’m hoping this gets me closer to the really fine satin finish that’s on my CS-1 (that needs a touch-up as well).

I’m thinking I’ll use some coarser media for the top of the gun and sights and the fine stuff for the rest. I’ll post some pics and link to what I bought later this week, hopefully.

Yesterday I was talking to a local gunsmith and he turned me on to a media supplier that’s almost next door to my work. Would have been nice to know last week.
Link Posted: 2/8/2023 9:54:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BASE] [#7]
Well here’s the follow up. I bought 120-200 grit glass from eBay. Previous poster was probably right in that it could have been even finer, I think. It was fine for this project and I think they turned out pretty nice. It’s hard as hell to get good pictures of stainless guns on an iPhone but I tried.







ETA: Link to what was used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304770160882

What I probably should have used:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/304748715696 or Brownells 270 grit
Link Posted: 2/9/2023 9:44:07 AM EDT
[#8]
I think it still turned out great - and if you decide to blast it again for a more matte finish in the future that always remains an option.

It's strange how there's certainly a sweet spot as far as the grit size for the most non-reflective surface. Too coarse or the wrong shape/type of grit and it doesn't have the expected finish but too fine and it ends up oddly reflective in spots.

I'd have no complaints using the grit you did before Parkerizing though!
Link Posted: 2/9/2023 10:34:49 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Third_Rail:
I think it still turned out great - and if you decide to blast it again for a more matte finish in the future that always remains an option.

It's strange how there's certainly a sweet spot as far as the grit size for the most non-reflective surface. Too coarse or the wrong shape/type of grit and it doesn't have the expected finish but too fine and it ends up oddly reflective in spots.

I'd have no complaints using the grit you did before Parkerizing though!
View Quote

I did use some fresh 70 grit aluminum oxide from HF on the top of the barrel/receiver & sights. I was thinking that extra rough texture would be helpful with the sights and might give it a neat 2-tone look. It was completely smoothed out by the finer grit glass I used later, even though I was trying to avoid the top of the gun.

So I guess the takeaway is that you probably can come back and use a finer grit media if needed.
Link Posted: 2/9/2023 3:02:44 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BASE:

I did use some fresh 70 grit aluminum oxide from HF on the top of the barrel/receiver & sights. I was thinking that extra rough texture would be helpful with the sights and might give it a neat 2-tone look. It was completely smoothed out by the finer grit glass I used later, even though I was trying to avoid the top of the gun.

So I guess the takeaway is that you probably can come back and use a finer grit media if needed.
View Quote


You have to use the coarsest last or the finer grit smooths it out. Mask everything off really well if you give it a try.
Link Posted: 2/12/2023 5:57:23 PM EDT
[#11]
I think I'll leave well enough alone, for these two anyway. I am going to give the baking soda thing a shot sometime though since I have a giant bag of it in the garage.

I was able to do some pretty rushed shooting yesterday with my boy and we put 100 through both of them. Enough to get them a bit sooty. They cleaned up real easy so I think this finish will suit me just fine for now. They don't seem to be prone to showing scratches or dings but are still smooth enough to clean easy. They really look very close to the finish S&W is putting on some of the newer guns.
Link Posted: 3/28/2023 6:26:17 AM EDT
[#12]
I got distracted, but your work looks pretty good to me.
Link Posted: 3/28/2023 9:03:22 AM EDT
[#13]
It seems to be holding up well. While not quite as slick as I had hoped for, it really doesn't show scratches and is easy to clean up.

I just took those guns out over the weekend for their first real workout. Pretty happy with how they turned out, and how they shoot.
Link Posted: 3/28/2023 9:36:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 4/17/2023 10:12:19 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BASE:
Well here's the follow up. I bought 120-200 grit glass from eBay. Previous poster was probably right in that it could have been even finer, I think. It was fine for this project and I think they turned out pretty nice. It's hard as hell to get good pictures of stainless guns on an iPhone but I tried.
View Quote
Nice.  Obviously late to the thread but if you happen to see this was just wondering what pressure
you used with the air compressor.
Link Posted: 4/18/2023 5:46:14 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GcS:
Nice.  Obviously late to the thread but if you happen to see this was just wondering what pressure
you used with the air compressor.
View Quote

I think I keep my shop air regulated around 90psi. I have a really old speedaire compressor (rebuilt twice now) that struggles to keep up with more than that.
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