I picked up a Savage/Stevens 67e 20 gauge fairly cheap yesterday.  It appears to have been banged around a little, the wood is dinged a bit, it has a little light surface rust here and there, but little visible wear.  I shortened the 28" tube by 9 1/2 inches and I'm taking it apart for a good cleaning and to refinish the metalwork and wood.  I've removed the buttstock and the rear fcg screw, all that's left is a front drift pin and the trigger group and shell lift slide out as a unit.  I can pivot the fcg slightly on the pin, I've soaked the thing with WD40.... and broken 2 punches without budging the pin in the least.  It's a small diameter pin, driven from the right (videos of others taking the shotgun down on Youtube.)

Suggestions short of C4 or picking up a press at Harbor freight?  (I need one anyway, but it's 63 miles....)

Thanks,
John

Starter punches then follow up with normal punch. Oh yeah, a bfh.

Hit it with a true penetrating oil not wd40.

Thanks Guys.

There's an Ace Hardware in our little nowhereburg.  I was going to have to pick up ne pin punches anyway.  

John

50/50 mix of auto trans fluid and acetone. Let soak overnight or even longer.
Heat with butane microtorch until hot, but not stupidly so. Glowing is very bad.
Dunk back in the 50/50 mix for a bit.
Numerous rapid, light taps to get things vibrating.
Bash a few times with BFH to see if it will move.

Repeat as necessary. Repeated applications of heat and vibration are the key.

Had my best luck with PB blaster and Liquid Wrench.

Heat (I use a heat gun vs a torch for large areas and a soldering iron for the pins and screws) and then while its hot, soak it with the spray and let cool. Repeat a few times. The expansion and cooling draws the lube down into the nooks and crannies...

If you want to heat it up and cool it down quick use a PC duster can upside down.

I know this trick!

John

The key to getting out resistant pins is in the setup.
If when you strike the pin the part bounces or moves, the pin not only may not come out, it can often distort and lock even tighter in place.
Don't just wail away at it or you may get it frozen in place and have to take the risky step of drilling it out.

First apply a liberal drop of Kroil, which is the top penetrating fluid and give the pin a tap from both sides.  This vibration will help penetration.
Apply more Kroil and give it 24 hours to infiltrate.

Get the part in a no bounce-no move setup using wood blocks or whatever on a FIRM surface.  
A typical work bench will almost always allow movement and bouncing.
A concrete floor works well.  Pad the floor with a few sheets of newspaper, thin cardboard,  or cloth to prevent scratching the part.
Use a wood block with a hole to allow the pin to pass through.

Use a starter pin punch.
This is just a standard punch cut off to about a 1/2 inch working length OR a nail set with the end ground flat.
This prevents a standard punch from flexing or bending and dissipating the force.
If the pin is an outer type with a rounded head, you can use use a small Dremel stone or carbide cutter to concave the punch end to match the rounded pin.  
This will prevent flattening the pin head and causing cosmetic damage.

Have a buddy help hold the part solidly in place while you use a larger hammer to drive the pin with the starter punch.
Once it's moving switch to a standard length punch to complete removal.
The old advice of "Use a bigger hammer" is at least partially true because the greater mass directs more force to the pin.

Make CERTAIN the pin is being driven out the right way.
DO NOT trust a schematic drawing, they may not be correct..... LOOK at the pin and the area around it.

The standard is for American gun makers to install pins from the Right side, BUT..... This is not always true.
Due to previous removals or gun maker changes pins may be installed from the Left side.
LOOK at the ends of the pin for any signs of which way it was installed.  Many gun pins have splines on one end and you can usually see those if you look with magnification.