Educate me on FAL carbines.    I love my 21" Imbel And it shoots nice.  I have AR10s that are accurate and heavy precision rifles.  I need a lighter rifle that I don't mind getting banged around on the farm.  I am thinking about sending it to a FAL smith to have it cut down and checked out.

The perfect tFAL would probably be 16-18" and have some weight shaved off of it.  I guess it is generally classified as a bush rifle.

Please share recommendations and pictures of what you have found to be a perfect FAL.

 Do not cut a good rifle down. Just don't do it. Get another rifle that is already a carbine. 

  What tasks will the carbine perform that your current rifle cannot?

If ease of transport is a need, good Para carbines are on the market constantly for decent prices.

The DSA aluminum lowers are good kit and really do make the rifle balance better.

I have found that Austrian StG58 barrels are consistently good shooters, with Argentine barrels a close second. An IMBEL barrel with low round count is also a good shooter. I have never had any of the U.S. made barrels perform to an acceptable level. If it won't out shoot and AK, why bother with having it. 
 Others will dispute this: I have yet to have any Belgian barrel perform well. Even the low round count Belgian StG58 barrels that I had were poor performers. (4 MOA or more) 

Optimal length, IMO, is the 436mm barrel, which comes out to 17.17".  This is the shortest length barrel that will work with the bipod (if you have a bipod cut barrel), bayonet, and rifle grenades when the combo device is fitted.  It also does not have the higher likelihood of reliability issues that the barrels around 16" can have.  If you cut down a barrel, you'll need to open up the gas port.  If you get a barrel that has been cut down, you'll need to check if the gas port is large enough.  If function is an issue, even with a widened gas port, you'll need to widen it a bit further.  Cutting down the barrel to this length will shave off almost 3 ounces.  If you get a barrel as a replacement or to do a new build, Steyr is the best, followed by IMBEL.  Some of the Argentine barrels imported here can have concentricity issues when cut down.  If you're looking to maximize weight loss, make sure the gas block is the style with a lightening cut.  Later IMBEL and Steyr gas blocks have the cut omitted.

I'll break it down further based on doing a new build as far as what is optimal:

-Receiver should be a DSA Type 1 made by LMT.  Compared to a Type 3, it takes off 4 ounces or so.  Also, unless you want the carry handle, get it non-carry-handle cut, eliminating the carry handle.  Another option is to use a spacer in case you ever decide that you want the carry handle.  Eliminating the carry handle takes off another 1.5 ounces or so.  For a para, it's better to use the top cover with the nose, and for that you'll need a para nose cut.  If you like the idea of loading with chargers and want to use that sort of top cover on a fixed-butt rifle, you'll need to have tab cuts done on the receiver.

-Sand-cut bolt and carrier.  You can do Commonwealth (Australian or British), Israeli, or FN zig-zag.  All are GTG.  You can't mix-and-match Commonwealth and Metric bolts and carriers, and some carriers that might have sand cuts might use a single cam.  You'll need to be sure that both bolt and carrier are single or double cam if you get a set that's mismatched and one or both look like early production.  Sand cuts aid reliability and also take about a half ounce off of the weight.  For a Para, I'd hesitate to use DSA because their bolt group parts have issues; for sand cuts, you're better off having someone who knows how to do it do the sand cuts on the carrier, if you decide you want them.

-If you don't want to use the bipod or have a NBC barrel, get NBC handguards.  They weigh less and, IMO, are more comfortable.  DSA's bipod-cut handguards weigh even less, if you want that style.  If you want Keymod or MLOK, AIM Sports makes those types of handguards with no weight penalty.  With those, a QD front swivel is an option, which is better than using a barrel mounted swivel IMO.

-Use a StG-58 plastic butt stock.  They weigh less than the other ones and provide better cheek weld.

-While they have a small weight penalty, the ergonomics are greatly enhanced by using the grip for the Minimi/SAW, made by FN-USA, and using a Commonwealth-style extended selector.  You can either get the DSA one, which is designed for use with metric rifles, get a C2 or L2A1 selector, or have a L1A1 or C1A1 selector modified or get one that has been modified for use with metric rifles.  I also like to use an extended magazine release.  I use the Israeli, but the new DSA ambidextrous ones look pretty good.  I also prefer the wide foot bolt hold-open to the narrow one, and the StG-58 pivot pin to the standard type.  I also prefer the vertical frame lock lever, as I find it easier to use.  Your ergonomic preferences may vary, of course.

-To save weight, there are several things that you can do:

Use a DSA titanium combo device or an FN or FN-USA wasp-waisted combo device (as used on the FNC, CAL, and Para Minimi/SAW).  I personally would like to find someone who can work with titanium and wasp waist the DSA one.  The stock options would, in any case, take 1.5-2 ounces off. 

Get the short gas tube that is soldered to the gas block a la the StG-58.  Another ounce and a half right there.

Replace as many parts as possible with the lightweight version, i.e. replace steel parts with aluminum alloy ones.  The best route, but by far the most expensive, is to use FN hiduminium parts.  FN on its lightweight models made the lower receiver, pistol grip stud, pistol grip nut, trigger guard, return spring tube, return spring tube plug and washer, top cover, rear sling swivel base, magazine body, magazine floorplate, and magazine follower out of hiduminium.  This takes over 20 oz. of weight off compared to the equivalent IMBEL steel parts.  Some of these parts are really hard to find and also catch the interest of collectors, and are priced accordingly.  The stock would need to be modified to accommodate the lightweight return spring tube, as it is a bit wider than the steel ones.

The less expensive and easier option is to use a DSA lightweight lower, which doesn't weigh much more (additional weight is due to 7075 being heavier than hiduminium, but the difference is small).  This does not reduce as much weight, as it is set up to use a steel pistol grip screw and steel return spring tube and plug, although getting the stepped tube will help take about 3/5 of an ounce off compared to the other type.  DSA does have alloy pistol grip nuts, still.  They also made lightweight top covers and trigger guards, which are hard to find, but can be had if you look hard enough.  Using this setup with FN lightweight magazines still takes off the better part of a pound in weight.

You can also use a rear sight base (if using the tangent sight) with a lightening cut (hole drilled through rear; IMBEL omitted them), as well as use a lightened charging handle.  Charging handles with a lightening cut on the underside weigh a bit less, and if you find one, a Tapco or DSA alloy one can take off around an ounce, although some people have durability concerns.  It might be advisable to have a lightened steel handle as a spare.  If you prefer a folding charging handle, that's an option, but it will require a bit of modification to the receiver.

If you are going the para route, FN did make a hiduminium para lower, which takes a wider hiduminium stock bolt and expander screw, and require the stock hinge to be cut for the wider bolt.  Use a folding stock assembly, whether DSA or OEM, that has all five major components out of an aluminum alloy (tubes, hinge halves, butt plate).  DSA also makes a lightweight para lower, but it uses the steel stock bolt and pistol grip screw, so it weighs more, but it's less expensive and readily available.

-Try to get as a good a quality barrel as possible (including condition) and see about eliminating bolt movement, especially in the vertical dimension.  This would require a reputable FAL 'smith.  Same with any sort of FAL trigger job.  It can be made crisp, but it can't get safely under 6 lbs.  Also make sure that the frame lock is solid, as well as the lockup up front.  There should be no slop.  If using the tangent sight, tighten the aperture to the base to reduce slop.  I also like to widen the aperture to 5mm so it acts as a ghost ring sight, as I find this to be more practical.  My ideal would be a Hythe style sight for metric rifles, but none exists.  There are, of course, other sight options as well.

-Make sure you use OEM return springs, especially with a para.  The DSA and other aftermarket ones are weak and this can cause issues.  Milsurp Momkey sells a quality spring up to the original specs through the FAL Files, although you'll need to be a return spring tube guide separately.

-If you want to mount an optic, the only way to go is the DSA scope mount, which is heavy, but solid.  The Tapco one is almost as good and has lightening cuts to reduce weight a bit.  To minimize the weight penalty, you can go with the charger-guide version, which was made by both companies.  DSA also make a mount with a recess for attaching an ACOG directly to the mount.

-If you don't want an MLOK or Keymod hand guard but want a rail for a light, there are rails that, as-is or with minor modification, can be mounted through the vent holes.

-Only use OEM or Moses magazines.  The DSA ones are iffy at best and the Korean ones are junk.  Both the FN lightweight and Moses polymer magazines are best for lightweight builds.  Don't try to buy anything from Moses these days unless you like losing money.  Get the magazines secondhand.

-While more of an aesthetic thing, try to match the upper receiver and lower receiver, i.e. if you use a Type 1, make sure the lower is a Type 1 so that the recoil plate cuts match up.

If it sounds like I've really thought this out, it's because my long-term project is a lightweight FAL with a 17" barrel.  If you go irons-only, and are willing to go through the effort of getting all of the FN lightweight parts like I am, it is possible to have a FAL with that barrel length that weighs under 8 lbs.  A G-series lightweight is under 8.5 lbs. and has some room for weight loss, so it is certainly doable.  Sand cuts, StG buttstock, and shorter barrel would alone get it under 8 lbs.  Even with the DSA parts, though, you can still get it to within a few ounces of 8lbs.  A standard IMBEL 21" FAL weighs over 10.3 lbs., so it's a decent weight saving either way.

Sound advice from both of you.  My current rifle is built on a DSA receiver with one of the Dan's sporting goods kits.  It has lots of exterior wear bot the bore an.d barrel are crisp internally.  I have only test fired it but it was decently accurate.  The rear site is wobbly loose.  I have one of the DSA rails that have the cutout for an ACOG type sight.  I had the kit for a few years, eventually ordered a receiver, and had it assembled by my local smith.  

The thing I like the most is that it has a smooth recoil impulse.  I definitely agree that if it isn't at least AK accurate it's not worth it.  

I can always build an ar10 upper with a lightweight or gunner barrel. It still won't be an FAL.  



Goal
Tractor/ranch rifle

I have an old Bausch and laumb 1-6 and a Bushnel 1-4 that I'll try on it.  Ill have to figure out the cheek weld issue.  I'll see how accurate it is and then use it as is for awhile.  I might try the LW DSA lower and stock as the first mod.  I'll keep the matching lower as is.  

I am ready for this rifle to evolve into something useful.

I like 16" with aluminum lightweight lower. Loud little bastards.

I really want a pistol now...

I got a para fal back when clinton ban hit its sunset.  Well, I ordered one then.  Took a good while to get it.

I have had the regular sized fals but really like the para cause of the folding stock.

Course whoever keeps posting their vids of the pistol fal has me wondering if I will not wind up with one of those eventually.

I ordered my para the day of the sunset also.  I was working for a gun shop in Iowa part time and had the order on hold pending the sunset.  I waited about 2 months for it.
Still my favorite fal.

I bought a carbine for my youngest son several years ago.

Someone had cut the barrel down and then welded a compensator on the end of it to get it back past 16".

It's a neat little rifle.  Feels good.  Shoots good.  Trigger is better than most AR15's.  Doesn't feel heavy (balanced well??).  Doesn't seem to kick bad (no worse than our M1A's).

When you're shooting it, the muzzle blast doesn't seem so bad (ear plugs in, of course).  The people around you will object to it.  He took it to an Appleseed and we ended up pretty much by ourselves on one end of the line.  That was back in the days of center fire .30 caliber and .223 rifles.  No .22's back in those days.  Call it the first phase of appleseeds, when the instructors would sort of snicker at AR15's.  Even in those days, grown men shooting M1A's and M1 Garands objected to the blast of that compensator.  Out "on the farm" you'll probably not have an issue - if you're wearing hearing protection.

I did open the gas port up some, years later, due to having to operate it with the gas regulator nearly wide open and still having short stroking issues when you got up to a 150/175 rounds .  You could open the valve up and click or two and after another magazine or so you'd get back into short storking.  Repeat, repeat.  Now it runs on the second setting, just fine, with lots of room for adjustment "upwards" if needed.

Short is both well balanced and still accurate.

I bought the pistol and just got the stamp, unfortunately I had to buy a para lower for it because of the design. It's quite the blaster, have a ASR flash hider coming so I can do a
quick on/off at the range with the suppressor. I don't know if you would have to buy the lower if you got the one that comes with the brace or not, maybe someone can
chime in about that.