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Posted: 3/29/2024 8:17:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Thanks for the added input... fail-safe + springs around the PM funnel = best results
The new PM received has 2 small springs that wrap around the funnel instead of the single larger spring found on the prior version.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:11:53 PM EDT
[#2]
If it were me, I would only run 1 of those springs.
The 2 spring set up was meant for use before the FS linkage came along. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:48:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: If it were me, I would only run 1 of those springs. The 2 spring set up was meant for use before the FS linkage came along. Appreciate the input. I'll try one spring first along with the fail safe and weigh several charges to check consistency and feel. |
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Posted: 3/30/2024 9:55:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Just added a $25 camera to visually confirm powder is in the case without having to reposition myself while seated. Probably not needed if standing. It's 2MP 1080dpi and much clearer than the cheap camera I put on the balance beam. Can easily switch between cameras on the computer.
Also added a goose neck LED light that's dimmable. Helps to have adjustable lighting to get the clearest picture.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileJust need the fail-safe linkage to arrive to get started.... |
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Posted: 3/30/2024 10:08:09 PM EDT
[#5]
Nice.
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Posted: 4/1/2024 10:38:17 AM EDT
[#6]
Looks nice! I have a Square Deal from the same era (pre "B") and I really like it.
I just run the PM as it came with the springs and I've not had any problem with it. For a brass bin I just hang the bin off the edge of the finished bullet bin and it has worked, but I like how your bracket works, I might have to look into making one some time. DF3 mentioned that the handle arm was weak in the early model. I broke mine a year or two ago. Dillon sent me a new one of the current reinforced design after I emailed them pics.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 11:01:43 AM EDT
[#7]
Well done blowout. A+.
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Posted: 4/1/2024 12:44:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#8]
 I just can't HTML today... 
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Posted: 4/1/2024 3:39:39 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: Looks nice! I have a Square Deal from the same era (pre "B") and I really like it. I just run the PM as it came with the springs and I've not had any problem with it. For a brass bin I just hang the bin off the edge of the finished bullet bin and it has worked, but I like how your bracket works, I might have to look into making one some time. DF3 mentioned that the handle arm was weak in the early model. I broke mine a year or two ago. Dillon sent me a new one of the current reinforced design after I emailed them pics. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/408270/20230402_223058_jpg-3175488.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/408270/20230402_223017_jpg-3175490.JPG Wow, that just snapped off! Do you recall if it was while seating a primer or on the down stroke when it happened? I'm guessing seating a primer but I could be wrong. Had to trim the lip on the bin that sits on the OEM bracket in order to remove it once the new bracket was attached.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 3:40:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DVCER: Well done blowout. A+. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DVCER: Well done blowout. A+. Thanks! Originally Posted By wildearp: I just can't HTML today... We all have days like that... 
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Posted: 4/1/2024 3:48:58 PM EDT
[#11]
My first SDB press handle had cracks when Dillon sent me a recall letter.
Yes from priming. All that force pushing up. |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 4:02:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Wow, that just snapped off! Do you recall if it was while seating a primer or on the down stroke when it happened? I'm guessing seating a primer but I could be wrong. Had to trim the lip on the bin that sits on the OEM bracket in order to remove it once the new bracket was attached. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/bin_cut_jpg-3175704.JPG Yup, broke off on the priming stroke. |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 2:41:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#13]
The handle on my press looks like this. Does this look like the old version? It almost looks reinforced at the break point shown in the earlier photo.
 Attached FileThe fail-safe linkage arrived today.  Attached FileDiscovered the new fail-safe push rod bought from Dillion had the hole for the cotter pin drilled too far from the end. It caused the rod to bind when the cotter pin was installed.  Attached FileDrilled a second hole closer to the end of the rod which fixed the issue.  Attached FileEasyDial also arrived. Just need to calibrate it now...  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 8:10:17 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: The handle on my press looks like this. Does this look like the old version? It almost looks reinforced at the break point shown in the earlier photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/21_jpg-3176149.JPG snip Yes, that looks like the new handle. |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 12:47:07 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: The handle on my press looks like this. Does this look like the old version? It almost looks reinforced at the break point shown in the earlier photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/21_jpg-3176149.JPG The fail-safe linkage arrived today. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/25_jpg-3176146.JPG Discovered the new fail-safe push rod bought from Dillion had the hole for the cotter pin drilled too far from the end. It caused the rod to bind when the cotter pin was installed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/22_jpg-3176142.JPG Drilled a second hole closer to the end of the rod which fixed the issue. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/23_jpg-3176143.JPG EasyDial also arrived. Just need to calibrate it now... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/24_jpg-3176148.JPG Couldn't find it in the instructions, so left it out. Works good without it. |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 2:44:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ScottyPotty]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -JC-: My personal opinion, keep the springs on top after upgrading the failsafe linkage below. The springs provide an extra layer of security and also have the added benefit of a "snap" that most people agree leads to a more consistent powder throw. There are quite a few videos out there on this topic. I've been running my powder measures with new failsafe + top springs for years. Congrats OP on the press, very cool. I keep thinking I need one of these, but have never came across the right deal. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 2:21:34 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: Yes, that looks like the new handle. Great, thanks for confirming this! |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 2:35:11 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Easy Dial, I could never figure out the part with a hole in it that looks like a electrical lug with a square solid end? Couldn't find it in the instructions, so left it out. Works good without it. I'm not sure what this piece is for.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 2:40:53 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottyPotty: I hate the fail safe rods and run the springs. I heard about the myth of more consistent power drops so I did a test for my self and found the spring was a tiny bit better, but both were so close it would never matter. Congrats OP on the press, very cool. I keep thinking I need one of these, but have never came across the right deal. I plan to do a series of powder drops after calibrating the easydial. I might just try a couple options (with one and 2 springs attached) just to see if there's a measurable difference. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 12:08:11 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I'm not sure what this piece is for. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/don_t_know_jpg-3176937.JPG @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 4:31:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I'm not sure what this piece is for. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/don_t_know_jpg-3176937.JPG |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 4:34:32 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 5:07:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Thanks, if I'm understanding you correctly it not needed on a Dillon PM as the dial has a rod that fits into a hole in the plastic housing. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By KB7DX: @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. Correct. Not needed in the Dillon application. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 7:12:59 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: Correct. Not needed in the Dillon application. 
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Posted: 4/4/2024 12:27:22 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. Thanks for the explanation. I’ll toss it! Sounds like you may have used this in another application. |
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