Armory Sponsor
Dillon RT 1050 with a Ponsness Warren auto drive (Page 2 of 2)
|
Originally Posted By Cdog:
Originally Posted By sardo_67:
Originally Posted By Cdog:
Originally Posted By sardo_67:
Originally Posted By Cdog:
Here’s the progress pic from Sunday. Should be back on a Ups truck in a day or two. http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z280/azc1967/Image5_zps199012e7.jpg so this is a pic that Forcht sent you of the progress on your 1050? did he say what a normal turn around time on these are? i have been looking into the 1050 auto-drive systems, other than PW and Forcht who else makes them for customers? i have seen a few one off custom builds but those are not for sale. i am liking the chain drive better since it is always in the same motion and gets rid of the cam system, mine feels clunky when done by hand, also his roller shaft replacement set up looks real nice as well as what he uses to replace the index lever. does he do anything to make the primer system any better? seems every problem i get is from the primer set up on this not moving the bar enough. Yes. I have it back now and got it up and working. I have it set up as a prep machine only. Turn around was 3 weeks. It took a little tweaking to make perfect but I got the bugs worked out now. I don’t think I’d load on it as I prefer to keep that process manual on my Super 1050. Here’s a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwFvWmNXi8U that's awesome!! what is your tool head set up on there? the die after your trimmer, is that to clean up the burr left on the case? It’s a Lyman M die to debur and prep case mouth for the Mr. Bullet feeder. I’m pleased with the outcome. Makes case prep much less painful. I did 3k on it so far. I had to weld a ball on the end of the spring loaded trip pawl to get a full smooth rotation on the shell plate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPt4uN5zAyQ As far as loading on it goes. I seem to have a lot of issues with the primer system on the super 1050. Crunching, spitting and missing primers. That’s why I’m hesitant to load with the auto drive. i've had similar problems as well, i have tried everything to fix it, lube, no lube, cleaned, cleaned, cleaned, polished the sliding bar so it won't sick, new rubber on the end, more weight on the primer indicator rod..... idk what else. i'll just send out for the chain drive so he can work his magic. |
I did love my job, working hard is what K9s do…. I was born for it, I lived for it, and died for it; for my country….but mostly for you.
IDD Sgt Streaker (R556) KIA 11-15-2011 Helmand Afg
IDD Sgt Streaker (R556) KIA 11-15-2011 Helmand Afg
|
Originally Posted By sardo_67: dont worry someone will be alone shortly to explain how they have had their dillon press for 20 years and howOriginally Posted By Cdog: Originally Posted By sardo_67: Originally Posted By Cdog: Originally Posted By sardo_67: Originally Posted By Cdog: Here’s the progress pic from Sunday. Should be back on a Ups truck in a day or two. http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z280/azc1967/Image5_zps199012e7.jpg so this is a pic that Forcht sent you of the progress on your 1050? did he say what a normal turn around time on these are? i have been looking into the 1050 auto-drive systems, other than PW and Forcht who else makes them for customers? i have seen a few one off custom builds but those are not for sale. i am liking the chain drive better since it is always in the same motion and gets rid of the cam system, mine feels clunky when done by hand, also his roller shaft replacement set up looks real nice as well as what he uses to replace the index lever. does he do anything to make the primer system any better? seems every problem i get is from the primer set up on this not moving the bar enough. Yes. I have it back now and got it up and working. I have it set up as a prep machine only. Turn around was 3 weeks. It took a little tweaking to make perfect but I got the bugs worked out now. I don’t think I’d load on it as I prefer to keep that process manual on my Super 1050. Here’s a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwFvWmNXi8U that's awesome!! what is your tool head set up on there? the die after your trimmer, is that to clean up the burr left on the case? It’s a Lyman M die to debur and prep case mouth for the Mr. Bullet feeder. I’m pleased with the outcome. Makes case prep much less painful. I did 3k on it so far. I had to weld a ball on the end of the spring loaded trip pawl to get a full smooth rotation on the shell plate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPt4uN5zAyQ As far as loading on it goes. I seem to have a lot of issues with the primer system on the super 1050. Crunching, spitting and missing primers. That’s why I’m hesitant to load with the auto drive. i've had similar problems as well, i have tried everything to fix it, lube, no lube, cleaned, cleaned, cleaned, polished the sliding bar so it won't sick, new rubber on the end, more weight on the primer indicator rod..... idk what else. i'll just send out for the chain drive so he can work his magic. they have never broke a part or its never flipped a primer or threw a case or spilled any powder  dont get me wrong I love my dillon press but they have some problems just like any machine, nice set up by the way I am seriously thinking about doing the same
|
|
Three things about the primer sys on the S1050 you may or may not know.
#1 Part# 13957 = Magazine shield cap. This should be just tight enough to touch the primer tube. To lose and you'll be missing primers or spiting them out. To tight and you'll be missing primers too. Two things to fix this one is blue lock-tight the other is Teflon tape to keep the cap set in the correct adjustment. #2 Part# 11003 = slide actuating lever. This must be set at the right height from the frame of the press. Which is as close as you can get it with out it touching the frame. 1/32 of an inch works for me.. #3 Part # 12930 = primer station retain tab. This part should be touching the case to keep the case fully into the shellplate. It is a wear item and will need to be replaced over time. Some times it can just be resurfaced but it must keep the same angle of cut in the face that rides against the case's rim. There's more but until you learn what every part should be doing when it is set up right . You'll never know what to look for when there is a problem. One other thing the slide must be kept clear of ball powder. I just blow it off now and then.
|
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
|
Speed is what kills 1050 priming. "My Super1050 friend", his machine doesn't miss a primer at 12 rounds a minute. Over 12 primers are missing, flipped or seated sideways.
Its getting close to time to fire his machine up again, Thanks for tuning tips ReefRaider. dc. |
" God Bless Our Snipers ".
" Any fool can know. The point is to understand.”
-Albert Einstein
" Any fool can know. The point is to understand.”
-Albert Einstein
|
Originally Posted By 1911smith:
Speed is what kills 1050 priming. "My Super1050 friend", his machine doesn't miss a primer at 12 rounds a minute. Over 12 primers are missing, flipped or seated sideways. Its getting close to time to fire his machine up again, Thanks for tuning tips ReefRaider. dc. Thats only about 720Rnd per hour. My drive runs 900 RPH and is not missing a beat. So something is a miss. The return spring #13858 on his primer punch might be getting weak. It is also a wear item. Be sure there is grease in the bore that the punch rides in. Along with ALL the pivot points in the SYS. If not it can bind up a little too. You might want to pull the primer tube and take a good look at the plastic tip on the tube they wear out too. The tube should get cleaned out from time to time. They get dust from the primer compound in them and it can build up. I keep a nickel plated +P .45 shell case that has a .22LR projectile in it, on the top of my primer push rod. Don't know how much it helps but it looks cool. 
The best thing I have found to lube the primer slide is a dry lube. That way the ballpowder will not stick in the track. It gets reappiled during long runs of 10K. |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
|
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Three things about the primer sys on the S1050 you may or may not know. #1 Part# 13957 = Magazine shield cap. This should be just tight enough to touch the primer tube. To lose and you'll be missing primers or spiting them out. To tight and you'll be missing primers too. Two things to fix this one is blue lock-tight the other is Teflon tape to keep the cap set in the correct adjustment. #2 Part# 11003 = slide actuating lever. This must be set at the right height from the frame of the press. Which is as close as you can get it with out it touching the frame. 1/32 of an inch works for me.. #3 Part # 12930 = primer station retain tab. This part should be touching the case to keep the case fully into the shellplate. It is a wear item and will need to be replaced over time. Some times it can just be resurfaced but it must keep the same angle of cut in the face that rides against the case's rim. There's more but until you learn what every part should be doing when it is set up right . You'll never know what to look for when there is a problem. One other thing the slide must be kept clear of ball powder. I just blow it off now and then. Good tips RR. Thanks! |
Dillon RT 1050 with a Ponsness Warren auto drive (Page 2 of 2)
Armory Sponsor