I have several mechanical locks and the keys to change my own combination so I can certainly deal with mechanical locks although aligning the dial without the proper tools is not always perfect…

My question is about how easy the electronic locks are to defeat.

I see a couple of things advertised like one called a little black box marketed to locksmiths that supposedly can be wired to the external portion of most S&G and Lagard electronic locks and then reset the combination in 15 minutes, then immediately be used to send that reset combo to the internal portion and open the lock.

I am a firm believer that Houdini was correct that any lock that can be opened can be defeated.  \

I am wondering how hard it would be to figure out the algorithm or back door that these companies use and program a raspberry pi to do the same and then you could pretty much open most any electronic lock.

Anybody know if such a project exists?

I am a little hesitant to pop electronic locks on if they can be defeated relatively easily.

Thanks
Duke

In general, by the time a new lock hits the market, there are several new ways to defeat it.

Milwaukee M18 makes any big box store safe an easy-open can.  Locks keep honest people honest.

I am curious as to how widespread the availability of something like this is.

I know that with most RSCs the lock is the least likely way to break in, but I’m wondering if with the ubiquitous nature of low cost programmable smart products like the raspberry pi that can do various things from run klipper for your 3D printer to running an ad blocking software how has someone not come up with a device that lets the random theif pull the keypad off, plug in and 20 minutes later the container is silently opened?

I doubt that the circuits on most consumer grade locks are very complex as they only cost a little more than a raspberry pi.

I’d like to think maybe the DOD and other high security locks are pretty resistant to electronic tampering but I’m sure to a fairly intelligent hacker they are probably easy to defeat as well.

I have something that previously had a complex key lock common in Europe in addition to a class 2 mechanical lock.
I have removed the key lock and it’s in pieces so not going back on.
Currently have an electronic lock secondary to the class 2 mechanical but have considered going back with another mechanical or possibly one of the S&G spartan series that is electronic with twist of the outer ring mechanism to retract the bolt, so the solenoid only needs enough power to get out of the way not retract the bolt

Yep...

It depends on the lock, the better ones only send the signals that a certain button was pushed. From one video I saw the better S&G ones send pulses just like an old rotary phone.

But I guess if you can send a code to allow the code to be changed from the outside its possible. They might be brute forcing the reprogram code, but I would think most time out on too many wrong tries.

Unless you have a real high security safe thats rated like a TL-15 or better, the lock is probably the least fastest way to get in.

Any RSC rated gun safe could be opened far faster with a cordless grinder and a few cutting discs, or even a sawzall and some good quality blades would have you 99% of RSC boxes in in under 15-20 minutes.

The double lock safe I’m talking about is a 5000lb empty TL-30

Some years ago at a gun show a safe (really RSC) salesman was telling me how good their 11g steel body was.

I told him I stored a plasma cutter in the same space 11g wouldn’t last 5 minutes.

I have a graffunder that weighs about that much empty and it wears an amsec esl5.

Before I purchased the lock, I spoke at length with a member here (thesafeguy) who worked for amsec and had a hand in the development of their line of e-locks. From what I learned from him, I feel comfortable that if someone gets in my safe, it not going to be by manipulating the e-lock. The key pad thats outside the door does nothing but send a signal to the brain inside that a button was pressed. Thats also the reason why if the keypad goes bad while your safe is locked, you just disconnect it and connect a new keypad, and it works.

Another useful hint was to remove the serial# sticker from the back of the keypad and keep it someplace safe. If you ever need the master reset code for your lock, the only way to get it, is by that number. Lose the sticker, and now it just got a little harder.