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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 17 of 17)
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Originally Posted By Johrichal: I see nobody has posted to this in quite awhile so hopefully somebody sees this. I recently built an annealer based off the information posted on this thread and it works pretty darn good. I am having one problem though and I didn't see it addressed anywhere, The displays on my motor controllers are all but unreadable the numbers look like they are changing back and forth very rapidly and makes it hard to set the correct speed. Anyone else have this problem and know of any possible solutions or causes? My first thought is to check to make sure the voltage to the motor controller is within the spec requirements of the controller. Another possibility is the controllers displays are faulty. What are you using? It's been a minute since I built mine and your components are likely different than what I used, but here's my list. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: The digital readout on the controllers I'm using have never done what your describing. My first thought is to check to make sure the voltage to the motor controller is within the spec requirements of the controller. Another possibility is the controllers displays are faulty. What are you using? It's been a minute since I built mine and your components are likely different than what I used, but here's my list. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/Annealer_parts_list_JPG-3446610.JPG The above is called a "summons" on this site. |
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Thanks for the response and the parts list, these are the displays I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B098WKHD75?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title The controller I'm not sure of I bought it back 5 or six years ago then never ended up building it till now but I'll try to find that info when I get home |
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Originally Posted By Johrichal: I think I may have figured it out my controllers are 8a and my inverter is 30a The controllers you have can manage 6v, 12v and 24v. What's the voltage and amp requirements of your motors? Those controllers will pass through 8 amps max and continuous current of 6A to the motor. Your motors should be below 6A, which I imagine they are. What I used are only 0.8A . @Johrichal ETA: Looks like my parts list didn't have all the parts showing, including the motors used. It's now been updated. Another thought is you just got a couple bad LED displays on those controllers. You could trying replacing them since they're cheap. |
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| Ok thanks, I just ordered a new inverter I figured that might be a better place to start being as the one I have is from 2018 and has been sitting on the shelf in my gargage since then. I cant imagine that both the displays, being new, would have the exact same defect but if the inverter doesnt fix the problem I will try that next |
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While this looks like a totally cool and fun home-project, a reminder headsup on commercial options - in particular if you want something with a feeder hopper for higher volume production, and just buy it off the shelf: ~$300 (I paid 270 for mine a few months ago)  So a bit more than building your own, but if in this project you start adding up costs and compare it to a finished commercial good, there is a comparison reference. And if nothing else, if your costs start exceeding that - well, good to know! Have at it, as this whole thread does look like a fun project, not trying to screw that up! |
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Originally Posted By Johrichal: Ok thanks, I just ordered a new inverter I figured that might be a better place to start being as the one I have is from 2018 and has been sitting on the shelf in my gargage since then. I cant imagine that both the displays, being new, would have the exact same defect but if the inverter doesnt fix the problem I will try that next Seems your only issue is the displays are flickering, which makes me think they are defective from the factory. The Amazon link provided shows they are only $16 for the pair. You can always return them on Amazon if it doesn't cure the problem. Power supply is probably twice that price. I just used a 5A power supply on mine. |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: While this looks like a totally cool and fun home-project, a reminder headsup on commercial options - in particular if you want something with a feeder hopper for higher volume production, and just buy it off the shelf: ~$300 (I paid 270 for mine a few months ago) www.amazon.com/dp/B09FNXG46L So a bit more than building your own, but if in this project you start adding up costs and compare it to a finished commercial good, there is a comparison reference. And if nothing else, if your costs start exceeding that - well, good to know! Have at it, as this whole thread does look like a fun project, not trying to screw that up!  Here's my short list of what needs to be added/changed on a commercial machine: - 60psi regulator and hose for connection to a BBQ tank. Those little bottles don't maintain a constant flame output unless it's a short run. As the bottle depletes the air/fuel mixture changes. $80 - Pencil flame torch head. Most have a plumbing solder head as shown on the amazon annealer. It has a ring of burners around the tip that disperse heat. You want a single flame to reduce off target heating (anything not on the neck and shoulder of the case). $12 I do like the plastic shield that the Amazon machine has to keep cases from falling out of the hopper. Might have to add that feature to my DIY box. I'd prefer an induction machine for a smaller footprint and eliminate the need for propane. Obsessed did a great job on his machine. |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: Your a buzz kill! Here's my short list of what needs to be added/changed on a commercial machine: - 60psi regulator and hose for connection to a BBQ tank. Those little bottles don't maintain a constant flame output unless it's a short run. As the bottle depletes the air/fuel mixture changes. $80 - Pencil flame torch head. Most have a plumbing solder head as shown on the amazon annealer. It has a ring of burners around the tip that disperse heat. You want a single flame to reduce off target heating (anything not on the neck and shoulder of the case). $12 I do like the plastic shield that the Amazon machine has to keep cases from falling out of the hopper. Might have to add that feature to my DIY box. I'd prefer an induction machine for a smaller footprint and eliminate the need for propane. Obsessed did a great job on his machine. Originally Posted By Blowout: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: While this looks like a totally cool and fun home-project, a reminder headsup on commercial options - in particular if you want something with a feeder hopper for higher volume production, and just buy it off the shelf: ~$300 (I paid 270 for mine a few months ago) www.amazon.com/dp/B09FNXG46L So a bit more than building your own, but if in this project you start adding up costs and compare it to a finished commercial good, there is a comparison reference. And if nothing else, if your costs start exceeding that - well, good to know! Have at it, as this whole thread does look like a fun project, not trying to screw that up! Here's my short list of what needs to be added/changed on a commercial machine: - 60psi regulator and hose for connection to a BBQ tank. Those little bottles don't maintain a constant flame output unless it's a short run. As the bottle depletes the air/fuel mixture changes. $80 - Pencil flame torch head. Most have a plumbing solder head as shown on the amazon annealer. It has a ring of burners around the tip that disperse heat. You want a single flame to reduce off target heating (anything not on the neck and shoulder of the case). $12 I do like the plastic shield that the Amazon machine has to keep cases from falling out of the hopper. Might have to add that feature to my DIY box. I'd prefer an induction machine for a smaller footprint and eliminate the need for propane. Obsessed did a great job on his machine. good point, bit a big bottle doesnt need an adotional regualtor - they stay pretty constant. closer to $15. 
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: good point, bit a big bottle doesnt need an adotional regualtor - they stay pretty constant. closer to $15. www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMKNGX33 Tried a 20psi regulator on the bbq tank and the output was steady, but the flame was small. It took 6 seconds for the neck to reach 750F on a 223 case. Switching to a 60psi regulator set at 50psi brought the time down to 4.5 seconds. I typically anneal 500 - 1000 or more cases at a time and the 25% reduction in time helps. There should also be less heat migration to the case head because of the shortened time, but I haven't tested to prove it. You need to unscrew and remove the pressure reducer that comes in the torch head to get the torch to work with a regulator. |
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| I got it figured out, it was the inverter put the new one in and everything functions well now, I think maybe the little orange screw that sets the voltage on the old inverter was what was broken it didn't seem to do anything when I turned it and the new one turns everything a lot faster. Thanks for the help! |
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Originally Posted By Johrichal: I got it figured out, it was the inverter put the new one in and everything functions well now, I think maybe the little orange screw that sets the voltage on the old inverter was what was broken it didn't seem to do anything when I turned it and the new one turns everything a lot faster. Thanks for the help! |
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Originally Posted By Johrichal: I got it figured out, it was the inverter put the new one in and everything functions well now, I think maybe the little orange screw that sets the voltage on the old inverter was what was broken it didn't seem to do anything when I turned it and the new one turns everything a lot faster. Thanks for the help!  Thanks for the update. |
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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 17 of 17)
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