User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 2/3/2018 1:08:12 PM EDT
[#1]
1.93 Larue Mount is made for this (LT135) Works great for me.
You can also get a LT mount for the dbal too (LT272) No issue holding zero here on a couple MK8 setup. YMMV but you cant go wrong with a LT mount. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/3/2018 1:17:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Does the 1.93 scope mount completely clear the dbal? I just got my scope zeroed and don’t really want to get another mount if I don’t have to
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/3/2018 1:23:10 PM EDT
[#3]
I dont think anything will completely clear it bro...just the nature of the beast. Someone more knowledgeable may know.
Not so great pic, but the best I have. Looking at the pic, it seems to cover alot...but its wayy better than the 1.5...which was not usable to me. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/4/2018 10:22:04 AM EDT
[#4]
OP could get some Wilcox Risers. $$$$$, but they work.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/4/2018 11:48:15 AM EDT
[#5]
Get a T-50 for that periscope action.
QD is what I would probably do in your case. The mounts hold zero in my experience, well enough for =100 yd sighting. I use Larue clips or ladder covers around the footprint of the laser to get it to the same place easily in the dark. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/4/2018 2:07:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Can't speak for anyone else, but I haven't had any issues with return to zero (yet) in 2-3 years of using the Steiner mounts.
Don't forget to secure the throw lever to the mount body so you don't lose your laser - there is a hole next to the lever for this. If you're taking it on and off a lot, you'll probably want to try a twist tie instead of a small cable tie. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/7/2018 1:54:47 PM EDT
[#7]
Another out of the box option is milling your handguard and direct mount it to the handguard. Saw some pictures floating around awhile back where someone did this. It's something I always wanted to do but don't have the resources to do. A quick Google search came up nothing though.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2018 5:46:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Good points. I’ll make sure to lanyard the throw lever.
Has anyone mounted it on the side? Also how was the zero at the factory neutral settings? On paper at 25yds? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/12/2018 11:15:38 AM EDT
[#9]
Thanks guys.
Ive got it mounted at 12. Using some rubber bands to hold the wires for now. Brother says the use electrical tape in EOD. Any other ideas for wires? saw zip ties in the pic thread. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/12/2018 7:33:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks guys. Ive got it mounted at 12. Using some rubber bands to hold the wires for now. Brother says the use electrical tape in EOD. Any other ideas for wires? saw zip ties in the pic thread. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/12/2018 8:00:10 PM EDT
[#11]
I tried risers and mounting at 3 o'clock
What you end up finding out is that 12 o'clock is a better location, and even with the dbal obscuring the lower 3rd of your FOV it really doesn't affect target acquisition and you really don't even know it's there after training with it for a while. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/16/2018 9:02:05 AM EDT
[#12]
Another option to explore is to move the DBAL back towards the scope. The closer to the scope the less it will be in the FOV.
This may not work with your shooting style or rail but it is another option to explore. If you like to grab the handguard directly fingers often get in the way of lasers and illum but if you use a vertical grip then problem solved. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/18/2018 5:01:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Another option to explore is to move the DBAL back towards the scope. The closer to the scope the less it will be in the FOV. This may not work with your shooting style or rail but it is another option to explore. If you like to grab the handguard directly fingers often get in the way of lasers and illum but if you use a vertical grip then problem solved. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/21/2018 2:36:17 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just tried this. I think it should work, just have to see if my hang blocks anything. It shouldn’t, I keep my thumb off the top rail to the side where the tape switch is. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Another option to explore is to move the DBAL back towards the scope. The closer to the scope the less it will be in the FOV. This may not work with your shooting style or rail but it is another option to explore. If you like to grab the handguard directly fingers often get in the way of lasers and illum but if you use a vertical grip then problem solved. I have not seen any issues with loss of zero, keep in mind those adjustments are only relative anyway... From the manual "Each adjuster click will move the laser point by approximately 1 cm at 25 meters." |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/21/2018 6:46:03 PM EDT
[#15]
Get a taller mount for the scope our add a riser.
Also I thought the partiall obstructed view would bother me but I got used to it. FWIW when shoot unmagnified if you keep both eyes open your brain over laps the image from your other eye so you can still see the area "obstructed" by the IR laser, or even the housing of the optic. Takes some getting used to shooting with both eyes open but its really the way to go. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/25/2018 3:51:01 PM EDT
[#16]
Thanks guys. Now question about zeroing.
the manual suggests a zeroing the laser to the POI at 25yds/m. How does this affect the left/right impact spot past 25m? Ie laser is on the left side of the bore, so wont bullets be impacting to the left past the zeroed distance, say 200yds? or is it not enough to worry about. I was thinking a constant offset would be better, ie zero the laser to the elevation at 25yds, but offset to the left of impact. so that impacts are 1" or whatever the right of the laser at all distances. or for practical purposes it doesn't matter, so zero per the manual. primary use will be hogs. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/25/2018 4:05:26 PM EDT
[#17]
 How To Zero an IR Laser |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/25/2018 6:40:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Thanks. good video. off to try and make some home made targets.
ETA: Did some testing at home and found aluminum foil works as a reflector. Also having the DBAL mounted close to the scope works, its not blocked at all by my hand. Now I just need to find some place to sight in at night. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2018 9:47:10 AM EDT
[#19]
Ok dummy question for zeroing, the manual says the IR pointer adjusters moves the beam on the target. Which seems to be the opposite of red dots which move group impact direction (and the visible pointer adjusters, which move the group directions). This is the IR only model.
So in the video above (@TNVC), the initial group was high. Group needed to come down. So adjust the IR laser UP direction (6 clicks), so that when you re center on the target, rifle moves down, impact moves down. I don't think the adjustment direction was mentioned in the video. Same would be true for windage. Move the laser to the group. Is that correct? ETA: And now I’m real messed up. The laser is on the right side of the unit so why are the targets set of for a left offset? The impact should be left of laser right? I’m thinking too much. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
