FP block plunger should not be locking, it should be able to be pushed up with ease against the light spring tension, the FP should move forward to allow it tip to protrude out the front of the bolt which will hold it forward, and when you pull back on the striker, Plunger should drop back down.
As for FP liner, depending on how you pull it, you pretty much kill it, and it will need a new one. Hence the Fp can not bind in any way when the FP is moving through it, and it has to be fully seated forward of you run into problems as well. Also, using a seating tool, so you don't destroy the new one.
Now with the FP sleeve out, take a very good look in the channel to make sure you did not get any coating in the channel. Hence before you bake, you use Acetone on a Q tip to make sure any coating in the channel is removed. Same goes for the plunger channel as well.
Now with the slide bake, acetone may still work, but it going to take while/work to dissolve any baked coating in the channels.
Hence any coating in the channel is going to end up not only making the ID of the sleeve smaller when seated that will cause binding of the striker to the sleeve, but if you did get coating at the end of inside of channel, going to cause the FP to not fully produce out of the bolt face as well.
Next on the RMR non ejection side bolt to hold it down, you may have to trim that bolts end since it down the ejector spring side of the slide and may be a touch too long. The easy way to check is to pull the extractor, the spring and rod, and back shine a light down the channel to make sure the end of bolt is not protruding in the channel. hence if it binding up the rod and spring, this is going to cause problems with the slide locking up as well.
As for the real problem, when you coat a glock slide without removing the old coating, you do not coat any part of the inside of the slide, since it will cause problems with barrel lock up with the coatings too thick. If you do want to coat the inside of the slide so it color matches the rest of the slide, then the factory coating needs to be removed first, and the new coating inside the slide completed with a thin coat mixed to 12/1, and even a touch of thinner used so it produces as very slick finish inside the slide areas.
So right now, I can tell that you painted the inside of the slide over the factory coating, since the hood of the barrel is not even with the top of slide, the slide it not all the way forward at lock up on the frame, meaning that the barrel is not fully locked up correctly to the side, and the striker is hitting the FP well above the center of it and not full protrusion since the barrel is not fully locked up the the slide to begin with.
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So, since the coating has already cured/baked and not going to come off easy from the inside of the slide with acetone and scrubbing, time to pull the RMR, FP sleeve and sights, bead blast the coatings off the slide to get it down to the bare tenifer metal finish, and when you do coat the inside of the slide now directly to the tennifer metal finish this time around, light coat only at 12/1 mix with thinner for your base coat to start with so the inside of the slide coating is slick semi gloss finish and a very thin even coat. Also, clean the FP and plunger channels of any coating with Acetone and Q tips, before baking.
Now with the base coat cured so you tape off the insides of the slide so your not adding more coats to the barrel contact surfaces inside the slide to cause barrel and slide lock up problems, then you add more coats to the outside of the slide as needed with a 24/1 mix if you want more of a flat finish to the outside of the slide, remembering to clean both the FP and plunger channels before baking again as well..