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Posted: 3/1/2022 4:53:35 PM EDT
Can't find the answer to this anywhere, and I posted originally in the wrong sub-forum (sorry):

I don't have a walk-in oven (joke) big enoug to hold the parts all hanging. Some will have to lay or sit on trays.  How long as a rule do they need to hang air-drying before they will be mar-free from curing with some surfaces resting on the finish? If I let them air cure overnight, is that generally adequate and won't interfere with the subsequent heat cure?  I've checked the Cerakote T&E docs and searched on this, but not found any discussion of it.

I am experienced at painting/refinishing, but I have not used Cerakote before.  If it were a typical paint or Alumahyde, for example, I'd leave it a day and then bake it with no ill effect.
Link Posted: 3/1/2022 5:27:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Over night should be fine.  I've never waited that long.  With preheating of parts before spray it seems to flash off in minutes and then becomes immune to light touch.  Still I try to minimize the contact points if I can't hang them.
Link Posted: 3/1/2022 7:09:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the reply.  I do in fact usually heat parts slightly with a heat gun before painting unless they are already in good sunlight for a while.  Then also again after a little while to promote flashing.  Thanks for the reply and I'll use my same technique w/the Cerakote and not worry so much. Thanks!

Related question re: Cerakote.   Will it stick to sandable primer?

Different project (or part thereof - buttstock) - I need to glaze and repair the surface, and likely use sandable primer to get things nice. I've done this before and used Alumahyde over it all, and it came out great.  Would Cerakote work over the sanded primer, or should I stick with Alumahyde?
Link Posted: 3/2/2022 7:09:42 PM EDT
[#3]
It will only be as durable as the primer underneath (in terms of adhesion to the substrate, chip resistance, etc), but it will stick.
Link Posted: 3/3/2022 12:00:29 AM EDT
[#4]
Good and clear answer, thank you.
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