I know it’s not the same durability of getting it cerakoted but it’s cheaper and I guess holds better to some extent than rattle can. I’m thinking about doing it as a surface protection for some of my rifles. For those that have used it was it worth while or more a pain than anything?

I used it to touch up a lower I scratched getting the bolt catch roll pin out. Did an ok job doesn’t cover that well and color was off

I have only used it as a touch up, works great for that.

Its ok - I did an 80% raw lower with it and its held up pretty well, but there is a little bit of wear from the dust cover and around the magwell. Definitely not as durable as cerekote or something like that, its almost like a fridge epoxy.

I have used it a lot.  It is more thick than Duracoat, which I now use, so I never used it in areas where tolerances could be affected.  Also, even after cured, Lock-Tite will damage it causing it to peel.  I used it on barrels, flash suppressors, stocks-both plastic and wood, and upper and lower receivers.  But as I said, holes for pins had to be blocked and threads protected.

Out of the can and allowed to air dry takes a week or more so I baked mine at 200*F for 2 hours to cure so you must be sure your part will take the heat.  If heated too hot the finish will blister so watch it.  And baking in the oven stinks the place up to high heaven so ventilate very well.  It’s fairly durable, fairly easy to touch up, but be sure to buy clear out nozzles and extra spray nozzles too.  I always clear the spray tube before starting to spray and use a new, clean spray nozzle for each spraying session.  If you try to reuse a spray nozzle it will spray clumps, even if you clear the nozzle after use.  That happened several times to me before I wised up and used a new spray nozzle each time.

And be sure to keep that can well shaken.  Pause to shake it every minute or so of spraying.  I liked it a lot but when my son bought me an air brush, I switched to Duracoat and never looked back.  I still use Aluma-Hyde II for quick small jobs but it is not as durable as Duracoat.

I don't know if it's similar to Brownells gunkote in a spray can I used on a police shotgun years ago but that worked great. Prep is key. Just FYI,  if you use the kitchen oven to cure the finish be aware of the backlash that will be coming from the wife when the whole house stinks to high heaven for hours ??

I have used it to add color to plastic buttstocks, grips and forends with satisfactory results. Cheap enough, it holds up MUCH better than Krylon. It’s a good balance between cost and durability. I also refinished some Sterling SMG mags with it. They are holding up fine to CLP, Hoppes’, Mobil1.

It does take a solid TWO weeks to air cure. Not a big deal for me but keep that in mind. Also, like all finishes, surface preparation is the key to a good looking, durable finish.

Works fine, I like it. I'm sure cerakote is more durable but I like being able to do this easily at home, and I kinda like a little wear over time.

I scrubbed with steel wool, cleaned with brake cleaner, then rubbed everything down with acetone and let dry. Let everything warm in the sun or even in the oven at 175 or 200 for a couple minutes. Spray light coats, then remove the cap from the spray can and soak in acetone between coats. Shake it out, reattach cap, give a couple bursts to make sure the acetone is cleared out, and repeat. I think I did 3-4 coats in quick succession.

The gun in back there gets tossed on the floorboard with other rifles, no babying at all. I think I painted it in March or April, including the suppressor. Holding up great.

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I just cropped in on the can here, black alumahyde maybe 6 months ago. Hunting gun, gets banged around and lots of mag dumps. So far so good.

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I'm a pro cerakoter. Done right with proper prep it's just as good as cerakote.

Coated a lower in it once, along with a few other smaller things.   Very durable stuff, but the finish was textured when it dried.  This was years ago though, so maybe the formula has changed.

Aluma Hyde works great. Good quality stuff. I used it to coat a chopped down A2 gas block after I cut off the sight and shaped it to fit under a handguard. Aluma Hyde is a pretty good heat resistant and tough coating.

The magpul  FDE does NOT look like anything from magpul in FDE

I paint every AR with it, primarily flat black. It's like ceracote after it air cures for a few days. I paint everything, including barrels and FSBs.  It adds another layer of surface protection and it dorsnt seem to burn off.

Its ok - I did an 80% raw lower with it and its held up pretty well, but there is a little bit of wear from the dust cover and around the magwell. Definitely not as durable as cerekote or something like that, its almost like a fridge epoxy.

True, but coyote is pretty spot-on for magpul FDE. I've used Alumahyde extensively and have always been very happy with the outcome. Check out the refinishing forum, there is a lot of info there.

Thanks for the replies, I might do one of my parts bin guns in it first. Debating doing it completely a coyote fde or trying some stencils from primary arms and trying to do a multicam look.

Duracoat.  Get a $10 airbrush from Harbor Freight and  a can of Compressed air from there or Hobby Lobby

Follow the directions and it will be a very good coating

I did this one in Alumahyde Ruger Matte Gray. Coated it about 10 years or so ago. Has held up great.

I did several AK Builds with it. 1 flat and several semigloss. All came out well and have held up much better than I expected. I'm impressed.

That is a great color and a great rifle

Ive got a Ruger Speed6 that had no finish when I bought it . I painted it matte silver back in 2003 or so. I dont use it a lot anymore but the alumahyde has held up well enough for a beater revolver.