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Posted: 9/4/2018 3:33:38 PM EDT
I am looking at adding some WWI and WWII rifles and handguns to my collection. I'm starting rather late and the prices are rather high. I found a British Enfield that is within my budge but not sure what a good price on these rifles are. The one I am looking at is a MA Lithgow MKIII SMLE with a date I am told of 1942. Its under $200 as of right now but I am sure bidding will go up.
Can you guys tell me where I should start and what I should expect to pay? What should I look for to make sure it is a WWII era rifle? Also a WWI era rifle? What should I look for period? Is there companies that sell these without having to look on auction sights? Are there books on this subject? Any good websites to decode rifles and tell what the serial numbers are? I will take any and all help. School me on these rifles. Thanks.  " />
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Posted: 9/4/2018 4:55:55 PM EDT
[#1]
The one I am looking at is a MA Lithgow MKIII SMLE with a date I am told of 1942. Its under $200 - Bidding will go up if it's in decent shape. Right now prices for an average shooter will be in the $350 to $500 range. Again , depends on condition, manufacturer , and any work that was done to " update" it later down the road.
A good online source in gunboards. Get a membership and begin reading the many threads there along with any online articles. The old Guns and Ammo magazine ran a number of Surplus specials. What should I look for to make sure it is a WWII era rifle? Also a WWI era rifle? What should I look for period? Is there companies that sell these without having to look on auction sights? - Auction sights right now will be best bet along with gunshows. Look for guys walking around trying to sell. Allans Armory used to be good , but things have dried up. Simpsons has them , but you will pay a premium for them.[/color] Any good websites to decode rifles and tell what the serial numbers are? - Again , check out the Enfield section on gunboards for more info |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 5:04:53 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I am looking at adding some WWI and WWII rifles and handguns to my collection. I'm starting rather late and the prices are rather high. I found a British Enfield that is within my budge but not sure what a good price on these rifles are. The one I am looking at is a MA Lithgow MKIII SMLE with a date I am told of 1942. Its under $200 as of right now but I am sure bidding will go up. Can you guys tell me where I should start and what I should expect to pay? Decent Enfields are now typically $350 and up, unless you luck into it What should I look for to make sure it is a WWII era rifle? Also a WWI era rifle? Look at the receiver date, but many have been through many a FTR (Factory Repair)...so most are mixed parts, you'll have to go through and vet all the pieces What should I look for period? Tons...original WWI Mk III's (not III*'s) would have volley sights, windage adjustable rear sight, mag cut off...III*'s eliminated these... Is there companies that sell these without having to look on auction sights? Are there books on this subject? The Lee Enfield Story, a must have, by Ian Skennerton, also Skip Startton's books.... Any good websites to decode rifles and tell what the serial numbers are? https://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?55-The-Lee-Enfield-Forum I will take any and all help. School me on these rifles. Thanks. By the Lee Enfield Story first, that is the single best reference out there, followed by Skip Stratton's "For Collector Only" books (he did one volume on the No. I Mk III's essentially, and one on the No. 4's)...these go through all the variations of parts for identification.... Good luck, there is a lot to learn. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 6:13:08 PM EDT
[#3]
If you are looking for a shooter get a No.4 with the adjustable sights.
WWI No.1s are crazy money. Great condition enfields are $600(No.4) to $1500(WWI with cut off and volley in tact) Surplus market is crazy now. Friend of mine did find a post WWII No.4 the other day for $450. If you want a really good WWI rifle that people haven’t really caught onto yet get a M1917 or P14. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 6:27:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Look for matching numbers. Optimally, all parts that can be numbered should match the serial on the receiver. On an SMLE, the numbered parts are the receiver, the bolt, the barrel, the bayonet lug, the forestock, and the underside of the rear sight leaf. IIRC a 1942 Lithgow should have all of those marked, though some may not be if it was refurbed later (they stopped serializing the rear sight leaf and in some cases the barrel). Ishapore or Indian service SMLEs may have the magazine numbered, but nobody cares because SMLEs never had serialized magazines from the factory. Any such markings were applied at the unit/armorer level. Also, the bolt was scrubbed on some cadet rifles.
For shooting purposes, make sure the bolt matches. The other parts are a little less important, but the more of them match, the better off you are. Look for DP marks or red paint bands. If you see either (anywhere) pass on the rifle. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 7:01:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Looks like I've got a lot to learn and I had no clue there were so many different things to check out.
I will check out the books and see what I can find. My next search will be for a Garand. It's just as much to learn about those too. Keep the info coming. I may email the guy and also a few questions. See what I can find out. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 7:02:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History[b]
Look for DP marks or red paint bands. If you see either (anywhere) pass on the rifle. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 7:16:46 PM EDT
[#7]
John Jovino gun shop of New York City is who imported the rilfe I am looking at. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
Below is what the add says. Here's an MA Lithgow S.M.L.E. III* 1942 Lee-Enfield bolt action rifle in .303 caliber. It was manufactured by the Lithgow SAF in 1942. The serial number on the forward portion of the receiver is D75896. There are different numbers (L4328 stamped on the rear of the receiver below the bolt handle; 70752 on the nose cap; and D64047 on the bolt handle) stamped on the gun as well. The barrel has a dovetailed vee-type front sight. The rear sight is the tangent-type adjustable for windage only. JJCO NY NY is stamped on the right side of the rear receiver and on the right side of the receiver bridge. These refer to the John Jovino gun shop of New York City who imported numerous rifles and parts after WWII. The shop then sold already built rifles, rifles they refurbished, and rifles they built from OEM parts. The condition of the exterior metal surfaces is very nice. The bolt head appears to be stamped with an A within a 7 point star and the number I. The stock is very nice with no markings. There are traces of yellow paint on the top hand guard just rearward of the rear sight. The barrel is about 25 inches and the rifle’s overall length is about 43-1/2 inches. The gun’s lock up is tight, and the bore is very good to excellent |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 8:22:47 PM EDT
[#8]
John Jovino, NYC was a huge importer of Enfields from Australia....
Problem is they also imported tons of parts... Some JJ guns are actual as built guns, some are built from the huge numbers of parts they imported... A mixmaster is fine, it just doesn't have as much collector value, but it you can get it for less than $350, its a good deal... |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 8:30:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why is that? What are these markings? |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 8:31:44 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
John Jovino gun shop of New York City is who imported the rilfe I am looking at. Is that a good thing or a bad thing? Below is what the add says. Here's an MA Lithgow S.M.L.E. III* 1942 Lee-Enfield bolt action rifle in .303 caliber. It was manufactured by the Lithgow SAF in 1942. The serial number on the forward portion of the receiver is D75896. There are different numbers (L4328 stamped on the rear of the receiver below the bolt handle; 70752 on the nose cap; and D64047 on the bolt handle) stamped on the gun as well. The barrel has a dovetailed vee-type front sight. The rear sight is the tangent-type adjustable for windage only. JJCO NY NY is stamped on the right side of the rear receiver and on the right side of the receiver bridge. These refer to the John Jovino gun shop of New York City who imported numerous rifles and parts after WWII. The shop then sold already built rifles, rifles they refurbished, and rifles they built from OEM parts. The condition of the exterior metal surfaces is very nice. The bolt head appears to be stamped with an A within a 7 point star and the number I. The stock is very nice with no markings. There are traces of yellow paint on the top hand guard just rearward of the rear sight. The barrel is about 25 inches and the rifle’s overall length is about 43-1/2 inches. The gun’s lock up is tight, and the bore is very good to excellent Sounds like no parts match on this rifle. Personally, I'd pass on it. The mismatched bolt can be a real pain if it doesn't headspace properly. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 9:09:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The yellow paint indicates it is an ex-cadet rifle. The yellow-marked rifles were safe to fire but usually had tired/worn bores and weren't expected to be especially accurate. Sounds like no parts match on this rifle. Personally, I'd pass on it. The mismatched bolt can be a real pain if it doesn't headspace properly. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
John Jovino gun shop of New York City is who imported the rilfe I am looking at. Is that a good thing or a bad thing? Below is what the add says. Here's an MA Lithgow S.M.L.E. III* 1942 Lee-Enfield bolt action rifle in .303 caliber. It was manufactured by the Lithgow SAF in 1942. The serial number on the forward portion of the receiver is D75896. There are different numbers (L4328 stamped on the rear of the receiver below the bolt handle; 70752 on the nose cap; and D64047 on the bolt handle) stamped on the gun as well. The barrel has a dovetailed vee-type front sight. The rear sight is the tangent-type adjustable for windage only. JJCO NY NY is stamped on the right side of the rear receiver and on the right side of the receiver bridge. These refer to the John Jovino gun shop of New York City who imported numerous rifles and parts after WWII. The shop then sold already built rifles, rifles they refurbished, and rifles they built from OEM parts. The condition of the exterior metal surfaces is very nice. The bolt head appears to be stamped with an A within a 7 point star and the number I. The stock is very nice with no markings. There are traces of yellow paint on the top hand guard just rearward of the rear sight. The barrel is about 25 inches and the rifle’s overall length is about 43-1/2 inches. The gun’s lock up is tight, and the bore is very good to excellent Sounds like no parts match on this rifle. Personally, I'd pass on it. The mismatched bolt can be a real pain if it doesn't headspace properly. I will keep reading and learning. Check around and see what I can find. I'm in no hurry. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 10:22:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Screw it! Find an all matching Ishapore 2A with a nice bore and you'll have a less problematic/more shootable, common caliber rifle.
S/F Al |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 12:00:10 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Screw it! Find an all matching Ishapore 2A with a nice bore and you'll have a less problematic/more shootable, common caliber rifle. S/F Al |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 11:27:41 AM EDT
[#14]
JJCO or John Jovino Co bought Lithgow out back in the 80's or 90's when the Aussie gov't shut it down,
they imported lots, and lots of rifles, some where nice mint untouched type stuff, some where mixmasters that may have been complete or maybe needed a part or 3, and some were put together from the parts in the factory, overall all I have seen and sold were in relatively good shape, +1 to SKennerton's book +2 to Gunboards, very knowledgeable bunch of folks there what part of VA are you in? |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 1:00:06 PM EDT
[#15]
Some of the Jovino build/refurbs used nice wood but they left out the recoil lug. Check for stock split in front of triggerguard.
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Posted: 9/5/2018 1:37:20 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
JJCO or John Jovino Co bought Lithgow out back in the 80's or 90's when the Aussie gov't shut it down, they imported lots, and lots of rifles, some where nice mint untouched type stuff, some where mixmasters that may have been complete or maybe needed a part or 3, and some were put together from the parts in the factory, overall all I have seen and sold were in relatively good shape, +1 to SKennerton's book +2 to Gunboards, very knowledgeable bunch of folks there what part of VA are you in? I'm watching that one and seeing where it goes. I found a couple others I am watching. I want to collect and find a nice shooting rifle to enjoy a day at the range with. |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 1:38:02 PM EDT
[#17]
Does a new barrel effect collector prices?
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Posted: 9/5/2018 1:42:01 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does a new barrel effect collector prices? That said, it would likely make the rifle more desirable to someone wanting a shooter. The "perfect" collector SMLE has the barrel it started life with.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 2:08:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Thank you.
I just got pics of the one from JJCO and the bore looks good with its rifling. Its from an estate sale. I would like to collect and have a nice shooter and if I would ever have to sell be able to recoup my money. The books that have been listed the one is over a hundred bucks! I found it on ebay for 85 or best offer. I might see about getting it and reading articles online too. |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 2:31:08 PM EDT
[#20]
Skennerton's book is well worth the cost. I got my copy signed from Ian himself.
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Posted: 9/5/2018 2:44:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you. I just got pics of the one from JJCO and the bore looks good with its rifling. Its from an estate sale. I would like to collect and have a nice shooter and if I would ever have to sell be able to recoup my money. The books that have been listed the one is over a hundred bucks! I found it on ebay for 85 or best offer. I might see about getting it and reading articles online too. The savvy collector invests in good references first, then guns. A hundred, or a few hundred spent on books can save you thousands when buying a humped rifle, or make you money when you can recognize some rare, oddball piece of kit because you saw it in a reference....I have made some decent money because a little knowledge is power, because of my reference books. I have thousands invested in my reference books, which I have been collecting since I was in high school. I used to think Jan Still's books on Lugers were hugely expensive at $75 each when they were in print and new, and I was a poor college kid....now those books are out of print and worth $350 and up, per volume. I only have Volume 1 on Imperial Lugers... 
Don't skimp on references if you are going to collect something. Its cheap money in the long run. Strattons books are cheaper, and actually more useful for identifying parts and their progression through the various models. Again, can be very helpful when digging through boxes of parts, and you come across a rare part that looks like the other parts to the unaware.... |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 3:00:37 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How much do you think good reference books cost? They are expensive. The savvy collector invests in good references first, then guns. A hundred, or a few hundred spent on books can save you thousands when buying a humped rifle, or make you money when you can recognize some rare, oddball piece of kit because you saw it in a reference....I have made some decent money because a little knowledge is power, because of my reference books. I have thousands invested in my reference books, which I have been collecting since I was in high school. I used to think Jan Still's books on Lugers were hugely expensive at $75 each when they were in print and new, and I was a poor college kid....now those books are out of print and worth $350 and up, per volume. I only have Volume 1 on Imperial Lugers...
Don't skimp on references if you are going to collect something. Its cheap money in the long run. Strattons books are cheaper, and actually more useful for identifying parts and their progression through the various models. Again, can be very helpful when digging through boxes of parts, and you come across a rare part that looks like the other parts to the unaware.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thank you. I just got pics of the one from JJCO and the bore looks good with its rifling. Its from an estate sale. I would like to collect and have a nice shooter and if I would ever have to sell be able to recoup my money. The books that have been listed the one is over a hundred bucks! I found it on ebay for 85 or best offer. I might see about getting it and reading articles online too. The savvy collector invests in good references first, then guns. A hundred, or a few hundred spent on books can save you thousands when buying a humped rifle, or make you money when you can recognize some rare, oddball piece of kit because you saw it in a reference....I have made some decent money because a little knowledge is power, because of my reference books. I have thousands invested in my reference books, which I have been collecting since I was in high school. I used to think Jan Still's books on Lugers were hugely expensive at $75 each when they were in print and new, and I was a poor college kid....now those books are out of print and worth $350 and up, per volume. I only have Volume 1 on Imperial Lugers...
Don't skimp on references if you are going to collect something. Its cheap money in the long run. Strattons books are cheaper, and actually more useful for identifying parts and their progression through the various models. Again, can be very helpful when digging through boxes of parts, and you come across a rare part that looks like the other parts to the unaware.... |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 3:01:40 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Skennerton's book is well worth the cost. I got my copy signed from Ian himself. |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 3:21:26 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That is true. I need to find a few books. I want to get one in Garand too. 1911s. So many I want. You are right. I need to invest in guides and then buy. They aren't super in depth about the history, and cover some of the kit, but usually not to the detail of the expensive hardcover books, but are invaluable from the standpoint of showing every part of the gun, and the progression and different types of parts...and they cover a shit ton of guns, off the top of my head, I have them on the M1 Garand, M1 Carbine, Starttons 3 volumes on Enfields (The No. I's, the No. 4's, and the P14/M1917), Trapdoor Springfield, SKS, Swede Mausers, and probably a few more, an excellent starting point. I would still get Skennerton's book for sure, but to jump in and stay relatively cheap, get Startton's 2 volumes at least. |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 3:40:22 PM EDT
[#25]
You might also check used book stores. While they're not exactly reliable sources for buying the specific book you want, I've managed to pick up the For Collectors Only books on the Trapdoor Springfield (Poyer and Reisch) and the Mosin-Nagant (Lapin) for a couple of bucks a piece at my local used book store.
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Posted: 9/5/2018 4:41:00 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That is true. I need to find a few books. I want to get one in Garand too. 1911s. So many I want. You are right. I need to invest in guides and then buy. garands, get Duff's blue and red books (WWII and post war) |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 4:42:40 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You might also check used book stores. While they're not exactly reliable sources for buying the specific book you want, I've managed to pick up the For Collectors Only books on the Trapdoor Springfield (Poyer and Reisch) and the Mosin-Nagant (Lapin) for a couple of bucks a piece at my local used book store. if the local connections don't pan out, addall.com, alibris.com abebook.com (addall usually pulls from the other 2) as well as Ebay and amazon are good sources |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 6:34:53 PM EDT
[#28]
I found the collector series of books on Amazon. Not to bad in price. It might give me an insight to things and allow me some time to find the other book. I might make an offer on that book this week on eBay.
I'm also looking at Mosin Nagant rifles as well and Mauser rifles too. I have seen a host of those rifles over the years. They have always interested me. A lot of countries had them. When I was a teen working at a department store called Rose's we carried WWII surplus rifles. I told my parents to buy them as they would be worth more than their asking price. The prices ranged from $40-$80 bucks. They were in rather nice shape too. This was around 1988-89. I was fifteen and couldn't buy one legally in our state. I tried. Funny thing about that, I helped stock the gun shelves with them but couldn't buy. |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 6:52:16 PM EDT
[#29]
I have a mid 40's Lithgow and I just love the rifle, as has been said you can study the topic till you are cross eyed and that's all good but keep in mind a SMLE will likely have many, many marks on it and the search will tell you what they all mean.
But shooting the old girls is a lot of fun regardless of collectability. Prices are only going to go up from here. Bonus points for playing bagpipe music while shooting 303. |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 9:43:29 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a mid 40's Lithgow and I just love the rifle, as has been said you can study the topic till you are cross eyed and that's all good but keep in mind a SMLE will likely have many, many marks on it and the search will tell you what they all mean. But shooting the old girls is a lot of fun regardless of collectability. Prices are only going to go up from here. Bonus points for playing bagpipe music while shooting 303. |
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Posted: 9/9/2018 9:37:59 AM EDT
[#31]
About fifteen years ago I bought a 41 Lithgow for a song because someone tapped a couple holes atop the receiver for a .22 dovetail rail. It’s a Jovino, matching numbers, easily 90% metal and excellent wood. Only non matching numbered part is the magazine, which is expected. At the time I checked the serial # and prefix on the old milsurp rifle forum and it was a legit whole rifle and not a parts gun assembled by Jovino. It has the lugs in the forend. I did a teardown and finish was intact under the wood, very clean. When disassembling the forearm has to come off first, then the receiver plate that fits over the tip of the stock screw, which prevents the screw from, well, unscrewing. The tip of the screw is squared off to fit in the notch in the plate, so you can tighten the screw in quarter turn increments. My stock had shrunk at some point and one quarter turn was too loose, and the next quarter turn was too tight, so I re-assembled without the plate. Old Painless has a tutorial on JB bedding on either side of the receiver socket, which I did, and Peter Laidler on the CSP smle forum had a tutorial on the proper way to tighten the screws for proper torque when assembling. I also followed his protocol for wiping the wood with diluted BLO and later pure BLO to rehydrate the stock.
The accuracy tips must have helped; with a cheap Simmons scope on the tip off mount, using Remington green/white box FMJ, it would stack three rounds vertically, touching each other, from a sandbag at 100 meters. Remington 180-gr softpoints would open up to about a 3 moa group at the same distance. I took the scope rail off and put some slotted plugs in the holes. It’s a great gun, fun shooter. I’ve thought about putting in a Huber trigger since the military trigger is painfully heavy. |
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Posted: 9/9/2018 10:10:35 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
About fifteen years ago I bought a 41 Lithgow for a song because someone tapped a couple holes atop the receiver for a .22 dovetail rail. It’s a Jovino, matching numbers, easily 90% metal and excellent wood. Only non matching numbered part is the magazine, which is expected. At the time I checked the serial # and prefix on the old milsurp rifle forum and it was a legit whole rifle and not a parts gun assembled by Jovino. It has the lugs in the forend. I did a teardown and finish was intact under the wood, very clean. When disassembling the forearm has to come off first, then the receiver plate that fits over the tip of the stock screw, which prevents the screw from, well, unscrewing. The tip of the screw is squared off to fit in the notch in the plate, so you can tighten the screw in quarter turn increments. My stock had shrunk at some point and one quarter turn was too loose, and the next quarter turn was too tight, so I re-assembled without the plate. Old Painless has a tutorial on JB bedding on either side of the receiver socket, which I did, and Peter Laidler on the CSP smle forum had a tutorial on the proper way to tighten the screws for proper torque when assembling. I also followed his protocol for wiping the wood with diluted BLO and later pure BLO to rehydrate the stock. The accuracy tips must have helped; with a cheap Simmons scope on the tip off mount, using Remington green/white box FMJ, it would stack three rounds vertically, touching each other, from a sandbag at 100 meters. Remington 180-gr softpoints would open up to about a 3 moa group at the same distance. I took the scope rail off and put some slotted plugs in the holes. It’s a great gun, fun shooter. I’ve thought about putting in a Huber trigger since the military trigger is painfully heavy. CSP/Jouster has not been a good source for any Enfield stuff in a good while, that forum, sadly, is just about dead, milsurps (badger's forum) and Gunboards are about the best now for Enfield stuff |
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Posted: 9/10/2018 12:13:29 PM EDT
[#33]
I am still looking at rifles and still educating myself too.
What are your thoughts on a rifle from Australia that has rack numbers on it? |
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Posted: 9/10/2018 8:47:34 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am still looking at rifles and still educating myself too. What are your thoughts on a rifle from Australia that has rack numbers on it? |
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Posted: 9/10/2018 11:52:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nothing wrong with rack numbers, part of the history...depends on price of course, but Aussies are very well made, and have a lot of history.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I am still looking at rifles and still educating myself too. What are your thoughts on a rifle from Australia that has rack numbers on it? What's a good price? I'm seeing rifles all over the place in price. |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 9:40:03 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The metal parts are pretty well worn on it. Right now it's sitting at $280. Would restoring the rifle hurt it? What's a good price? I'm seeing rifles all over the place in price. Numbers matching? A number matching gun will always be worth more... Hard to say without seeing, but easily worth $280, and on up to maybe $350 is my SWAG based on description, but could be more depending... |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 9:49:08 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am still looking at rifles and still educating myself too. What are your thoughts on a rifle from Australia that has rack numbers on it? That said, I do have a Malaysian-service No.5 that has painted rack numbers, so it did happen. What was done, however, was to paint repair/service related markings on the buttstock. Be wary of marks like "BLR 5/9/60" or the like - BLR means Beyond Local Repair and it meant the rifle was defective in some way. As those markings would have been removed when the rifle was repaired, there's a very good chance it still has the issue which caused it to fall into BLR status. BER is a similar status (Beyond Economic Repair) - and certainly means it was never repaired because it made no economic sense to do so. |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 12:49:50 PM EDT
[#38]
This is the one I was looking at. I'm about to bid on one that is ending soon.
If you are on GunBroker let me know what you see. I love the SMLE rifles. |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 12:56:16 PM EDT
[#39]
Ah, yeah. Early Lithgow that was refurbished at some point in the 1940s and then was passed to some other country after Australia retired the SMLEs. India/Pakistan, maybe. The bolt doesn't match, but the rest of it seems okay. I'd say $280-300 is a decent enough price for that rifle.
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Posted: 9/11/2018 1:34:43 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ah, yeah. Early Lithgow that was refurbished at some point in the 1940s and then was passed to some other country after Australia retired the SMLEs. India/Pakistan, maybe. The bolt doesn't match, but the rest of it seems okay. I'd say $280-300 is a decent enough price for that rifle. What is everyone's thoughts on this one? |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 1:47:47 PM EDT
[#41]
It's a solid gun, but the wood is all wrong for a Lithgow of that vintage. Should be coachwood, not beech. That came off a British rifle.
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Posted: 9/11/2018 2:22:27 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a solid gun, but the wood is all wrong for a Lithgow of that vintage. Should be coachwood, not beech. That came off a British rifle. |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 2:32:58 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: From looking at the pics it looks numbers matching. Would a correct stock be hard to find? Was this a rebuild? If it was rebuild was it lucky to keep the matching parts? |
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Posted: 9/11/2018 3:05:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A rebuild done by a Commonwealth armorer would have involved renumbering the parts to match. You could probably find the correct coachwood stock set with some patience, but it'd likely be pretty pricey and from a shooting standpoint it really doesn't matter. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: From looking at the pics it looks numbers matching. Would a correct stock be hard to find? Was this a rebuild? If it was rebuild was it lucky to keep the matching parts? |
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Posted: 9/22/2018 9:59:43 PM EDT
[#45]
Pics of my rifle have been added. I did the paperwork on it last week and will pick it up this week when I am back in town. I can't wait. I also have a Mosin Nagant waiting on me too.
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Posted: 10/22/2018 10:25:24 AM EDT
[#46]
Deleted *Pictures won't load*
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