User Panel
[#2]
Nice setup for a quick check.
Laser mounted to rifle will confirm optics as well, and makes adjustments easy. I have a IR laser on some and visible on others to verify zero after remounting optics. |
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[#3]
Holy shit, thank you SO MUCH for this, lets see how this helps my dual 14's
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[#4]
Good stuff David, I am tempted to build one with a bunch of metal pic rails on some metal box tubing.
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[#5]
Could you go into more detail on how this works with binos? I assume you try and get as close to center with both tubes-or on the same plane, horizontally like you said.
Just want to make sure I'm not overthinking it. Great write up! |
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[#6]
Very interesting David.
Wouldn't using a good quality AR rifle with a rail that is aligned properly with the upper and than placed in a vice accomplish the same thing as the pine board with pic rails attached? Now forgive me as I am not a tech guy so maybe I am missing something or not understanding you. How does rotating the rear ocular lens of the PVS14 to move the front scope dot to where you want do anything long term. Once you go to actually use the unit you will have to adjust the rear ocular to work with your individual eyesight again and doesn't that negate the alignment that was done. |
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[#7]
Quoted:
Very interesting David. Wouldn't using a good quality AR rifle with a rail that is aligned properly with the upper and than placed in a vice accomplish the same thing as the pine board with pic rails attached? Now forgive me as I am not a tech guy so ,maybe I am missing something or not understanding you. How does rotating the rear ocular lens of the PVS14 to move the front scope dot to where you want it does anything long term. Once you go to actually use the unit you will have to adjust the rear ocular to work with your individual eyesight again and doesn't that negate the alignment that was done. View Quote |
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[#9]
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[#10]
Fantastic write up!
I highly recommend to anyone owning binoculars, make sure they are collimated! You will literally "feel" the difference between a badly collimated binocular night vision device and a well collimated one. |
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[#11]
Quoted: When you rotate the whole ocular lens, it changes the center axis as the rear ocular lens is offset. Simply adjusting the rear ocular diopter adjustment is not what he is describing-you would rotate the entire lens cell then lock it with the locking ring. View Quote |
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[#13]
Quoted:
Is this not how its done? could you expand on your googly eyes. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Anyway, this method lets you check collimation. It doesn't allow dual-collimation automatically as you can't see both NODs at the same time. You can still collimate them one at a time, but setting them on the same horizontal plane, or you can try to collimate both to the same error. Same horizontal plane is easy- Just stick them both on the horizontal line, as close to each other as you can. If you want to collimate both to the same error though then you need to move to where the circles overlap. The full process is first set your zero diopter position. Ideal is to focus a camera at infinity, and then mask off all but the center 10mm of the ocular and then, with the pinhole cap on and sharp front focus, adjust the rear focus until the picture on the camera comes into sharp focus. This sets the zero diopter position to the same relaxed position as the human eye. Then work our where your circles that rotating the ocular exist on the reticle, and roughly where they cross over, and what part of the circle that was. Then collimate one NOD to that position and remember which direction the tangent to that position was in (eg, 45 degree angle climbing left ). Adjust the center crosshairs turrets on the scope to bring that position to the middle. Switch in the other NOD and try to adjust the ocular to the same center position that the crosshairs indicate. If it's a bit high, low, left or right, then adjust it so it's where the circle line would cross, then again, recenter the crosshairs on the new position and switch back to the first monocular and repeat. Have them in the bridge while doing this ( important ) and eventually, neither monocular will cause a deviation of the dot from the center of the crosshairs. At this point, both are shifting the optical axis, but are doing it by exactly the same amount. ( Slightly more advanced than collimating, not as good as boresighting ). At this point, you won't be looking straight at the target object, but at least both monoculars are parallel. You can recenter the kit and measure how far both are off now if you like, just for informational purposes ( or if you shoot instinctively and want to correct by eye ) but at this point your home-brew binocs should be pretty well collimated. David. |
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[#14]
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[#15]
Quoted: You and me both. That wall of text just fell on my brain and killed it. View Quote By attaching a riflescope with an adjustable reference point in the form of a graph-style reticle to a fixed rail, and installing co-witness a suitable second reticle in front, with parallax at 100m distance, for reasons of a virtual point of aim, it is possible to confirm optical path deviation for the purpose of boresighting, collimation and equipment testing of Clip-ons, Nods and Dual-NOD setups. And then you can eat watermelon. David. |
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[#16]
Hey david, is there adjustment designed into the objective lens side too? Just thinking about how the threads on the cell start into the housing and one of my 14's is definitely a little
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[#17]
Quoted:
Hey david, is there adjustment designed into the objective lens side too? Just thinking about how the threads on the cell start into the housing and one of my 14's is definitely a little View Quote Even if it does have issues, you can always set it up for infinity since that's where you'll use it most of the time, and it should still remain consistent. So it's not so much of a problem with the front lens since it will usually be in the same position most of the time. I think the rear focus is something like quarter of a marking difference per rotation of the lens, so it's not a big deal there, but at the front lens, it makes a huge difference - Based on travel per turn, the front lens moves way further for a single turn than the rear lens housing( which moves about 0.3mm or something like that per half turn ). I should mention that once you set the 0 diopter position, you should only rotate the entire assembly about a half turn either way, rather than just going around and around until you're in the right spot. David |
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[#18]
This is a great summary! I really appreciate you putting this together. Now I have another rainy day project.
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[#19]
I tried this with a old scope and a Aimpoint M2. I was kinda hoping that I would be able to get a bullseye with the PVS-14 in the middle, but unfortunately rotating the ocular lens also rotated the M2 dot perfectly around the center of the crosshairs. So basically the POI will be about 2 feet off at 50 yards. I was hoping the rotation would be offset enough that I could hit close to the center of the crosshairs, but it was literally a perfect circle around it.
Scope crosshairs Attached File Crosshairs with M2 dot centered perfectly Attached File A couple shots with the PVS-14 in between Attached File Attached File |
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[#20]
Quoted:
I was hoping the rotation would be offset enough that I could hit close to the center of the crosshairs, but it was literally a perfect circle around it. View Quote You could try an uncorrected lens and see if that improves things. I get some results like that with the ether lenses. If you find your nods are either low or high though, when mounted, you can correct for that much to reduce neck strain a little. David. |
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