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Posted: 2/23/2024 11:35:56 AM EDT
I have been removing crimps from .223/5.56 brass using the RCBS crimp cutter on a case prep center. These get dull quick, which is surprising, and as such has me looking at options.
Looking at everything from the Frankford/RCBS/Dillon super swagers to Lee and RCBS dies, to the Hornady LNL AP crimp rig, to new cutters... I read reviews and they are all over the place. Some better than others. Looking forward to and appreciate you opinions - based on your use of several options. My goals are obviously crimp removal but want something that just plain and simple works, will last, and is easy to use and is efficient. Leaning toward the Lee die or the Hornady LNL... Thanks in advance! |
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USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 12:09:49 PM EDT
[#1]
I am using the Lee app press. It works well. I did have a swage it on my 550 but it wasn’t great.
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WV, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 12:12:00 PM EDT
[#2]
I use a chamfer tool. Two twists and usually good to go
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Posted: 2/23/2024 12:53:11 PM EDT
[#3]
 For a powered crimp removal, I like the Hornady crimp reamer with the positive stop, chucked in a drill. https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/6409 Reamer is screwed into a coupling nut and chucked into drill. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-32-x-8-Stainless-Steel-Stainless-Steel-Regular-Coupling-Nut/4582541 |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:10:14 PM EDT
[#4]
I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses.
I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:12:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses. I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. 
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OR, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:20:47 PM EDT
[#6]
The absolute best crimp removal is to sell the crimped brass and buy non-crimped brass. It is about cost neutral and you save a ton of time and wear on your hands.
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:35:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pepe-lepew: The absolute best crimp removal is to sell the crimped brass and buy non-crimped brass. It is about cost neutral and you save a ton of time and wear on your hands. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:41:57 PM EDT
[#8]
I use the Hornady reamer on a Frankford Case Trim and Prep center. Been using the same one for a good bit. A great setup for me uniforming and processing brass new to me.
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:44:58 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By smokinghole: I use the Hornady reamer on a Frankford Case Trim and Prep center. Been using the same one for a good bit. A great setup for me uniforming and processing brass new to me. Chuck yours in a drill and you won't go back. Takes 2 seconds in a drill, how long in your prep machine? |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:47:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: https://i.imgur.com/QOlBlxnl.jpg For a powered crimp removal, I like the Hornady crimp reamer with the positive stop, chucked in a drill. https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/6409 Reamer is screwed into a coupling nut and chucked into drill. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-32-x-8-Stainless-Steel-Stainless-Steel-Regular-Coupling-Nut/4582541 I'm a @dryflash3 convert. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 1:59:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: The reason I chuck my reamer in a drill is because prep centers have too slow of an RPM for anything other than deburring. Chuck yours in a drill and you won't go back. Takes 2 seconds in a drill, how long in your prep machine? That’s how I used it before I got the FA trim/prep . I find it to be fine, I’m pretty light/conservative with the cut. Its not the fastest but its a check step on cases I know need trimming. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 2:01:22 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: The reason I chuck my reamer in a drill is because prep centers have too slow of an RPM for anything other than deburring. Chuck yours in a drill and you won't go back. Takes 2 seconds in a drill, how long in your prep machine? Agree, think that is the way to go. Again. Mine is dull and had me thinking through the process... I like new tools but it is too easy to have two buckets and a drill. And earbuds... |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 2:15:19 PM EDT
[#13]
I use a Lee Ram Swage and check the pockets with go/nogo gage pins.
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Posted: 2/23/2024 2:41:53 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Strikefirst: I'm a @dryflash3 convert.  Yes I've posted that pic countless times. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 2:42:34 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By smokinghole: That's how I used it before I got the FA trim/prep . I find it to be fine, I'm pretty light/conservative with the cut. Its not the fastest but its a check step on cases I know need trimming. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 3:32:37 PM EDT
[#16]
This is what I have for LR primer pockets. It works well whether hand driven or motor driven (the bit unscrews from handle).
LYMAN Crimp Remover  I bought one of these for small primer pockets. It sucks whether hand driven or motor driven. RCBS Crimp Remover  |
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USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 5:22:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Trollslayer: I bought one of these for small primer pockets. It sucks whether hand driven or motor driven. RCBS Crimp Remover https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/510J6mjmc0L._AC_SL1200_.jpg This is the one I have now and I agree with you. It got dull very fast, soft metal in my opinion for brass to dull it in 500-750 cases?? Like rounded off and rough edges - useless. Heard of a guy using hard metal #2 phillips bits.... Hmmmmmm |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 5:41:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Not what OP is asking. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. Totally meets his requirements and he already knows how to remove crimps. I was in his shoes and spent lots of money, time and wear on my hands trying to find good ways to remove a crimps in volume. I found the LC once fired brass I had stock piled was just as valuable as once fired non-crimped brass so it was a no-brainer decision and excellent solution. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 5:43:20 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses. I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. This is the way. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 7:13:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FB41]
[#20]
I have numerous crimp removing tools from hand-held Lyman and Hornady to Dillon Super Swage and I don't use them anymore.
I send all the brass that needs crimps removed to M&S Brass Processing. I'd much rather spend the time reloading than removing crimps. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 8:37:56 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FB41: I have numerous crimp removing tools from hand-held Lyman and Hornady to Dillon Super Swage and I don't use them anymore. I send all the brass that needs crimps removed to M&S Brass Processing. I'd much rather spend the time reloading than removing crimps. If you shoot a lot, that might be worth it to some people. For me, while a PITA, it's part of the process that makes reloading enjoyable. If I routinely had to de-crimp a thousand pieces of brass then I would probably reconsider. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 8:42:12 PM EDT
[#22]
Another vote for the Hornady reamer if you're not into super high volume. I also use their inside and outside chamfer tools, but only run the drill on low speed. It just needs a quit touch-up, like a second or less.
 Instead of the Ridgid 18v, I'm now using the Milwaukee M12 drill since it's half the weight. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 8:56:21 PM EDT
[#23]
Another vote for Hornady product In a high speed drill. Just did 2300 pieces. It was easy and fun.
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Posted: 2/23/2024 10:53:06 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RWEIII: This is the one I have now and I agree with you. It got dull very fast, soft metal in my opinion for brass to dull it in 500-750 cases?? Like rounded off and rough edges - useless. Heard of a guy using hard metal #2 phillips bits.... Hmmmmmm |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2024 11:22:17 PM EDT
[#25]
I think I've tried every style out there.
1) by a mile: 1050/1100 that does it natively on press. 2) super swage 600 I wouldn't consider anything else for high volume unless I simply couldn't get my hands on the above. |
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Posted: 2/23/2024 11:34:28 PM EDT
[#26]
SWAGE-IT on myXL650 |
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Posted: 2/24/2024 12:03:53 AM EDT
[#27]
Dillon super swage
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 1:35:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AR-Admirer]
[#28]
I have found swaging primer pockets to be a pain over the years. I tried most of the tools and finally settled on a Dillon Super Swage and the Primer Pocket Swage Gage by Ballistic Tools to set it up. I don’t process volumes of brass like others have posted. I think the Swage Gage is a helpful tool no matter your method of swaging or reaming.
If you swage, you don’t want to swage too little or too much. If you ream, you don’t want to remove too little brass or too much. Using a power tool to ream is probably the easiest and fastest if you are careful and do it right. There was a time when reaming was not favored because it removed brass. I like military brass so I don’t want to sell it. At one time, I had an almost endless source. |
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Posted: 2/24/2024 1:47:16 AM EDT
[#29]
I also found carbon tooling dulls fast.
I switched to a 5/16 carbide 60 degree counter sink on my lathe It can be used in a drill just chuck the drill in a bench vise |
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USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 10:00:10 AM EDT
[#30]
Super swage for me
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USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 10:25:22 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses. I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. +1 I have the Dillon and I know I have had to adjust the internal supporting mandrel from brand to brand. The thickness of metal in the primer pocket web area can vary (even within head stamps). I have lightly cut them away with a regular RCBS chamfer tool and used a borrowed RCBS swadger kit. I wasn’t overly impressed with that kit. |
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Posted: 2/24/2024 12:45:32 PM EDT
[#32]
Hornady reamer chucked in a drill. Ordered a dillon super swage but canceled the order because I use mixed headstamp and didn't wanna have issues because of that
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MS, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 5:57:16 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RWEIII: This is the one I have now and I agree with you. It got dull very fast, soft metal in my opinion for brass to dull it in 500-750 cases?? Like rounded off and rough edges - useless. Heard of a guy using hard metal #2 phillips bits.... Hmmmmmm Not buying that bit about getting dull in 750 cases. Especially not buying the garbage about 'rounded off corners and rough edges'. That steel would have to be dead soft (and the steel in those bits are NOT that soft) before that tiny bit of brass trimming did anything noticeable to the edges on the RCBS tool. Pretty sure I got at least 10k worth of brass processed on mine so far (chucked up in a drill like dryflash suggested above because yes, it is faster that way...) with no noticeable dulling of the cutting surfaces. Most definitely have not noticed any 'rounding of corners' or 'rough edges' on it. If you had contacted RCBS about your 'issues' they would have replaced what you had without hesitation. You might have been required to send the 'worn' cutter in first but they most definitely WOULD have replaced it...  |
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MS, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 6:02:17 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I've had my Hornady reamer since 1997, it still cuts fine after many, many thousands of primer crimps removed. Same boat with my RCBS version. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 6:30:27 PM EDT
[#35]
I have the rcbs one and it shows no signs of getting dull after maybe a thousand uses.
I keep meaning to mount a electric drill to a stand and use a foot switch for control. Holding a cordless drill and pulling the trigger over and over is not ideal for me. For multiple reasons. I have a dental buffing motor I would use but the slowest it spins is 1700 rpms. |
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ND, USA
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Posted: 2/24/2024 8:29:05 PM EDT
[#36]
I tried a couple before I found the McJ Tools one & I like it a lot.
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Posted: 2/24/2024 10:40:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Molon]
[#37]
Dillon Super Swage
Reloading For The AR-15: Swaging Primer Pocket Crimps  In order to reload brass cases that have crimped primer pockets, the crimp must first be removed before a new primer can be seated. There are two basic methods used to achieve this; reaming or swaging. With reaming, you’re removing material from the case head. With swaging, you’re simply pressing material back into its original position. Of the two methods, my personal preference is for swaging with the Dillon Super Swage 600. The Dillon Super Swage returns the primer pocket more closely to its original condition than any of the other stand-alone tools that I’ve seen used to remove the primer pocket crimp. The pic below, with a cut-out 223 Remington case in the Super Swage, shows the swaging rod and the case positioning rod to give you an idea of just how the Super Swage works.  There’s no good reason for over-swaging cases. If you’re swaging correctly, here’s what your cases should look like. The first pic below shows the case head of a factory-loaded round that has a crimped primer.  Now, a deprimed case.  The case from the above pic that has had the primer pocket swaged with the Super Swage . . .  And a pic with the same case reprimed . . .  This last pic shows the factory-loaded round next to the reprimed case for easy comparison.  |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2024 12:44:39 AM EDT
[#38]
I prefer the RCBS with it in a drill press. I use a block of oak with a hole the size of the case neck directly below. Drop in case, hold it, pull lever, rinse, repeat. I even rigged up a Rube Goldberg foot pedal for the drill press to make it easier.
Hornady cutter works fine too and that is what I use if I have to touch a few up by hand if I missed something. |
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Posted: 2/25/2024 12:56:04 AM EDT
[#39]
This is what I use, except at the same time, I'm using the decap die, DILLON RT1200 trimmer, and Lyman M-die. for me, each pull of the handle produces a processed piece of brass  Swage It S650 Swager for the Dillon XL650 Reloading Press Installation and Operation Video |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 2/25/2024 11:04:17 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Not what OP is asking. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By pepe-lepew: The absolute best crimp removal is to sell the crimped brass and buy non-crimped brass. It is about cost neutral and you save a ton of time and wear on your hands. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. Once you get mixed brass it can become a.pain and hard on the hands. |
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Posted: 2/25/2024 1:51:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BobinNC]
[#41]
From the "for what it's worth department" this is what I use: It's from CH4D. It's been around for umpteen years. It's swage method BTW and it uses your reloading press.
SWAGE ONLY KIT Item# 419001 $50.00 |
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USA
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Posted: 2/26/2024 10:37:33 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BobinNC: From the "for what it's worth department" this is what I use: It's from CH4D. It's been around for umpteen years. It's swage method BTW and it uses your reloading press. SWAGE ONLY KIT Item# 419001 $50.00 Huh, not seen that one, thanks! |
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USA
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Posted: 2/26/2024 10:44:04 AM EDT
[#43]
The current issue is cleaning up about 2500 pieces of "processed" brass that I am having about 50% failure on primer seating. I quit trying, if primers don't go easily I stop (sure an occasional flared or dinged cup is one thing but this is a LOT). Going to do them all.
Diggin the simplicity of the Hornady rig currently. Just seems like getting the brass off the pilot inside a die might be an issue. Lot of good reviews, couple bad with the stuck issue, but maybe they are doing it wrong? I will try to post the pic of the RCBS reamer. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/26/2024 11:49:53 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BobinNC: From the "for what it's worth department" this is what I use: It's from CH4D. It's been around for umpteen years. It's swage method BTW and it uses your reloading press. SWAGE ONLY KIT Item# 419001 $50.00 If I didn’t already own a dillon super swage I could turn those swage rods on my lathe and pop them in to my RCBS Ram Priming Die. Neat! It looks easier to use than the old RCBS press mounted swager buttons. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/26/2024 1:35:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aaron56: Not buying that bit about getting dull in 750 cases. Especially not buying the garbage about 'rounded off corners and rough edges'. That steel would have to be dead soft (and the steel in those bits are NOT that soft) before that tiny bit of brass trimming did anything noticeable to the edges on the RCBS tool. Didn't ask anyone to buy it, but to be honest I have a hard time believing it too. I keep a relatively open mind and given additional thought, I do wonder if brass buildup isn't the rounded/rough edge I see. Will look and even post a pic for inquiring minds. I don't think they would replace it, and I wouldn't spend the $10 to send it back. |
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VT, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2024 2:15:28 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spider1: I use a Lee Ram Swage and check the pockets with go/nogo gage pins. Yep. Just switched from an old RCBS swager to the Lee. Very consistent. Happy with the results. Checked with Go/No go gauges. |
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Posted: 2/26/2024 8:09:40 PM EDT
[#47]
I just ran into a batch of crimped WMA 9mm cases and it screwed up my reloading. I ended up sorting through that bag of brass to weed them out. Everything else was OK. I just don't find it's worth it to decrimp 9mm brass unless you end up with a big batch that you don't want to throw out.
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USA
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Posted: 2/27/2024 11:36:40 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zhukov: I just ran into a batch of crimped WMA 9mm cases and it screwed up my reloading. I ended up sorting through that bag of brass to weed them out. Everything else was OK. I just don't find it's worth it to decrimp 9mm brass unless you end up with a big batch that you don't want to throw out. I agree. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 2/27/2024 8:18:46 PM EDT
[#49]
I use an aircraft style piloted countersink bit with a 100° angle, you will have to ground down the pilot if it isn't removable. Most of the countersink bits are 60 to 80 degrees and, IMO, these are too steep of an angle for case prep.
I did swage in the past and like many found it slow and tiresome. I fail to see how a swage tool can "magically" push the brass thats been displaced by crimping back into its original location, it can't since you can still see the crimp ring or punch marks. Which brings me to the final strike against swaging - the brass still looks as if it is crimped! This requires me to take a closer look and makes sorting cases even more time consuming. |
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Posted: 2/27/2024 11:11:16 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krazy_karl: Another vote for Hornady product In a high speed drill. Just did 2300 pieces. It was easy and fun. |
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