I was offered a few rifles yesterday and the guy brought them out today.   It appears they werent stored in the best conditions as such there is a bit of spot flash rust here/there.   The only one with import markings is the M44.  

This isn't a Mauser but is part of the lot I bought.  matching numbers but has been bitten by the rust monster on bare parts.  No mystery here just a little carbine



I think this is a Peruvian Mauser Model 1935 in 30-06.  Numbers matching just needs a good cleaning.  I think this stock has a sick piece of wood hiding under the grime.   Any idea if I am even close on this one?






I think this is a Swedish 6.5x55.  This rifle is beautiful all matching with very few issues.  I have actually seen ammo for these locally so I may grab a box and throw some rounds down.  Killer piece of wood on this one.  Any idea on what the barrel threads are?  I saw one of these in Cabelas a while back and assumed the barrel threading was some gunsmith fuckery but watched the Primer on these guns and apparently its not abnormal at all to have threads.  



Finally I think this is a WWI Mauser.   Its all matching down to the stock.  Has a funny sight on it.   GEW 98





Group shot



Some of the bare metal on the bolts have flash rust.  Any good ways of knocking that down or just polish it off?

Don’t polish the bolts. That’s a Mitchell’s Mauser technique and it absolutely destroys collector’s value.

Theaded barrel on the Swede is for a training attachment.  Training rounds had wooden bullets. The attachment was designed to shred the bullet to reduce the danger of injury.

Wooden bullets gave a realistic recoil.

That is a WW1 Mauser with the Lange Viser (sp) sight for very long range volley fire as well as typical combat distances of the time.

The M44 is a typical post war refurb. How is the bore?

The FN made Peruvian Mauser rifles were usually made for prone shooting.....

The safety works the opposite of the standard Mauser: The safety is OFF when all the way to the right.  This was so the safety wouldn't hit the shooter in the face when firing prone.
The rear sight has range marks on both the upper and lower side of the leaf.  This was so the sight could be pivoted up and the ranges could be read and set from the prone position without raising your head.

For some reason the one I had was noticeably heavier then other similar South American FN made Mauser rifles.

After WWII we started giving foreign countries surplus 30-06 ammo and many countries converted 7.65 rifles to chamber it.
They ground the circular cut in the rear of the receiver ring so the longer 30-06 rounds would feed from the clip without catching on the receiver.
Usually the 7.65 barrels are over sized enough that accuracy isn't great, but they worked and that's what counted.

If the rest of the Peruvian Mauser is as nice as the crest area of the receiver, it's a nice specimen.

Counterbored about an inch then decent

It looks like its decent.  There appears to be some pitting right above the woodline and I havent pulled her out yet.  

It also appears the stock has some killer figure to it but it needs to be cleaned.  

The 6.5 has a killer piece of wood on it.  





Took the GEW down today.  shes decent and all matching.  Its a shame the stock isnt near the quality of the wood on the other 2 Mausers.  

Nice collection. If the price is right buy them all.

Value.
M44 $400
Peru 1935. $600
Swede 1896. $500
GEW 98. $1000

They were $100/each  I figured at $100 I didn't need to do much research because it takes a LOT to make a gun not worth $100.

$100 ea wow.

Peru 1935 30 cal are good shooters,  had one in about same shape but sold it two years ago with the rest of my S Amer Mauser collection.

GEW 98 that is matching, non duffle cut, non Turk import is a real find and they bring serious money especially if rarer manu or date. That one should clean up nice just don't go crazy.

Nothing crazy just trying to knock the dust and rust off of it.

Hell of a score on all of them. At that price I’d have leather marks on my ass cheek from ripping my wallet out.

Yeah,  when the guy texted me he said 3 of them for $300 with an option on the fourth.  I was like that may be high but I’d like to put hands on them.  Then he was like no 3-$300 total and i hadn’t even fully got my day started but was like damn where can I meet you.  He delivered them to my house and let me buy the 4th one for $400.  It’s a guy I’ve known 15 years and he does dumb shit like that now and then.

Can you introduce me to this guy?

I love that Swede. Been looking for an affordable one for the boy

For the Swede you will find a lot of information here:
http://gotavapen.se/index_eng2g.htm

Check out the pages 'Swedish Military Rifles 1894 - 1960', 'FAQ about Swedish Mausers' and 'The Swedish inspectors codes for Swedish Military small arms.'

I believe that the threaded barrel has been done post-ww2 during refurbishments from what I recall reading. It serves, as others said, to attach the debris-catcher for wooden bullets. You will find images of that on the site I liked above.

Concerning the wood, there is a lot of variability going on, as the swedes started out using imported wood from France I believe. When WW1 started that supply was cut off and they mounted their rifles in beech I believe. So the early production M96 rifles often have much nicer wood than those made during and after WW1.

Check out the C&Rsenal video on the M96 on YouTube, too.

Edit: for ammo, PPU makes good quality and cheap rounds. You may want to try the 120 grain HPBT or the 139gr SP. Barrel twist should allow you to shoot up to 160 grain rounds (twist is 1 turn in 200mm from memory). 6.5x55 is nice to reload too, as you have plenty of choice thanks to the 6.5 creedmore hype. Look for slow powders (in europe that is vihtavuori n150 to n165, depending on the bullet).

Edit 2: obvious point, but just to be sure: 6.5x55 has two pressure ratings (like 223 and 5.56 nato do): 6.5x55 SE or Swedish Mauser and 6.5x55 SKAN. The former is safe in old guns. The letter has significantly higher pressures and is meant for modern rifles (Tikka, Sako, Sig STR etc.). The PPU I mentioned are safe. Caution with hunting ammo, that may be loaded to modern specs (Norma ammo for example). Pay attention to this when you reload, too, there are two tables for this caliber.

Great find, I am envious of that Swede!