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Posted: 4/27/2018 1:58:27 PM EDT
I have seen a lot of references in this forum lately to aluminum being an undesirable material for .22lr cans because there are limited options for safely and easily cleaning them after prolonged use.
My only .22lr can currently is a SS Sparrow, but I have been thinking about a Warlock II since they are so inexpensive right now. I use an ultrasonic tank to clean my Advantage Arms .22lr conversion kit, and some Gemtech Multimount rear mounts, all of which are aluminum (I think the AA kit is painted, while the GT parts are anodized). I have been using the following product, which meets Boeing specs for safely cleaning aircraft parts, aluminum or otherwise. I have not seen any damage after several years of use. I am not a material science expert by any means, but I thought this was worthy of discussion - would you trust this stuff with uncoated AL baffles, or still steer towards steel or TI for your future .22lr can purchases?  
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Posted: 4/27/2018 2:36:24 PM EDT
[#1]
I also use only Simple Green in my ultrasonic cleaner at work (carburetors mostly). I tried Purple Power when the cleaner first arrived but it ate the carburetor up pretty badly. You can also run a part in the cleaner too long and even with Simple Green it will start to eat the aluminum.
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Posted: 4/27/2018 2:53:17 PM EDT
[#2]
I got a cheap soda blaster off amazon for cleaning my aluminium baffles in my form 1 can, works great
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Posted: 4/27/2018 3:02:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:You can also run a part in the cleaner too long and even with Simple Green it will start to eat the aluminum. Normal Simple Green is not to have prolonged exposure to Aluminum. The Mfr limits Aluminum exposure to "never more than 10 minutes". For the product the OP is referring, the Mfr states: "These products were initially for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances. Either way, Simple Green (both products) are degreasers. I've never found a ton of grease in my suppressor, after firing. Soda blasting the baffles works much better and I've heard many people give the brake fluid treatment a positive thumbs up. |
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Posted: 4/27/2018 3:16:40 PM EDT
[#4]
That version of simple green is chemically compatible with aluminum. Normal simple green, or any caustic (basic, pH >7) cleaner will (eventually) attack aluminum.
The scouring 'bubbles' of an ultrasonic cleaner can, depending on power level, soak duration, part geometry, and the phases of the moon attack aluminum, some grades faster than others. You can test this with thin aluminum foil to see what the cavitation action does. For a more practical test throw a chunk of hardware store aluminum or an anodized Chinese key chain carabiner in and see how long it takes your cleaner to hammer the substrate metal. Judicious use of ultrasonic on heavily soiled aluminum parts is a useful tool. Trying to get every last spec off your parts could lead to cleaner sections getting roughed up. |
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Posted: 4/28/2018 10:00:59 AM EDT
[#5]
As many of you know, I am not a fan of cleaning suppressors (I have altered my opinion with regard to .22LR). As a rule, you will cause more damage and shorten the life as compared to doing nothing other than cleaning mounting surfaces. Suppressors are not guns just as car mufflers are not engines.
Hydrocarbon based solvents do a good job on grease but do nothing for lead, carbon, or salts. They are best for gun cleaning. Water-based cleaning agents should not be used on aluminum cans unless the suppressor can be disassembled. The reason is that most soaps will not rinse out of the recesses in the can and will end up causing corrosion (or galvanic corrosion if there are dissimilar metals). If you can disassemble the suppressor, ultrasonic cleaning in water is fine. Otherwise don't do it. Simple Green, at least the version readily available, is an alkaline solution with a pH in the vicinity of 9. It will discolor, damage, or strip the anodize coating (not covered by warranty). Same goes for a number of similar agents. The soaps dissolve grease and salts left from the products of combustion. It generally will not loosen carbon or lead. Lead can be removed with the vinegar-peroxide "dip," a dangerously toxic combination after use. It will damage aluminum. A far better and safer choice for lead removal is soda blasting or tumbling. I cannot endorse the following for obvious safety reasons. On disassembled parts, I have been successful using 7% nitric acid heated to 120F in my ultrasound unit for 10-15 minutes. It both softens and dissolves carbon. Even with fairly long immersion, I have found no damage to 7075 or 6061 aluminum, 300 series stainless or grades 5 or 9 titanium. It will damage the anodize finish on aluminum. It will damage regular steel (as well as 400 series stainless) in that it removes the carbon. Coatings ("paint") almost always include carbon, and I would anticipate this mixture will strip coatings. Splashed, it makes nice holes in clothing, skin, eyes, etc. Again, don't use it on assembled suppressors -- only parts. All this said, in my opinion, the only suppressors where one should consider internal cleaning are the notoriously filthy .22LR. |
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