User Panel
Posted: 3/31/2020 5:56:59 PM EDT
Anyone know of anyone that has AUG suppressor gas plugs available?
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Do you need one for suppressing an AUG? I just bought one and I'm trying to learn more about the platform.
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Quoted: Do you need one for suppressing an AUG? I just bought one and I'm trying to learn more about the platform. View Quote It's a good idea to use a suppressor gas plug, or modify a regular 1 for suppressor use. Basically, the suppressor plug with the suppressed setting bleeds off extra gas so your rifle components don't get beat to death by being, way way over-gassed. It uses the back-pressure fr. a suppressor to cycle reliably. In the suppressed setting & no suppressor. It won't/should't cycle the AUG's action. ON the civi version the gas plug has 3 settings. -normal -adverse -grenade the suppressor plug has 3 settings. -normal -grenade -suppressed Normal is same position. The old adverse is now grenade. And the old grenade is now the suppressed setting. |
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Does anyone the dimensions/specs. on the “suppressor” port? In case I decide to go the DIY route. Or even better, does anyone know of gunsmith or machine shop that tap a standard gas plug to suppressor spec.?
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The suppressor port is sized to 0.101”
A quality drill press with a slow speed, a lot of cutting fluid and a good bit is a must. The plugs are DAMN hard |
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Quoted: is that for the incoming gas port on the plug or for the exhaust port? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The suppressor port is sized to 0.101" A quality drill press with a slow speed, a lot of cutting fluid and a good bit is a must. The plugs are DAMN hard is that for the incoming gas port on the plug or for the exhaust port? Apparently it’s the measurement for the opening on the port. There’s a long thread on lightfighter.net that discusses suppressing the AUG, and that same measurement is what is mentioned for the orifice on the plug itself. It mentions opening the plug itself to 0.101” or you could extend it to be equal to the exhaust port orifice |
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No, you guys are mistaken, it’s the exhaust port unfortunately which results in more port pop. I wanted to reduce the size of the inlet port by making another setting, but this can’t be done with the arrangement of the existing exhaust ports no matter the gas plug. So, one would have to fabricate a new one.
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Send a message to Steyr USA on FB. They have lots of parts available that dont show on their site
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Quoted: No, you guys are mistaken, it’s the exhaust port unfortunately which results in more port pop. I wanted to reduce the size of the inlet port by making another setting, but this can’t be done with the arrangement of the existing exhaust ports no matter the gas plug. So, one would have to fabricate a new one. View Quote Guess I misunderstood what I read.....apologies |
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I need one too but my suppressors aren't yet out of jail so I guess I can afford to wait for a restock.
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I just drilled my plug with a hand drill.
Worked like a champ, and I was up-and-running within 10 minutes. |
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Quoted: No, you guys are mistaken, it’s the exhaust port unfortunately which results in more port pop. I wanted to reduce the size of the inlet port by making another setting, but this can’t be done with the arrangement of the existing exhaust ports no matter the gas plug. So, one would have to fabricate a new one. View Quote The thing to understand about the suppressor optimized exhaust port is that, like most military suppressors, it's designed to reduce bolt velocity to improve reliability and gas blow back, not to make it super quiet. So, given that design criteria, it makes sense. |
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It makes no sense when they could have reduced the size of the inlet port instead. Especially as it is dumped immediately before acting on the piston. It is a “suppressor” setting. It’s not about just getting the firearm to function with the suppressor, it’s about optimizing the function of the firearm AND suppressor.
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i keep hearing about increased 'port pop' but it's hard for me to visualize it being that noticeable over the sound of the action. maybe one day someone will test it out normal vs suppressor gas plugs with a decibel meter
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Quoted: i keep hearing about increased 'port pop' but it's hard for me to visualize it being that noticeable over the sound of the action. maybe one day someone will test it out normal vs suppressor gas plugs with a decibel meter View Quote I've never noticed it and I've used a few different high volume suppressors on a 16" barrel. Is anyone using an AUG suppressed without hearing protection?!? |
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Steyr must employ gorillas to install their flash hiders. WTF!!??....lol...I was gonna go to the range and try my AUG with a suppressor today but that’s not happening. I’ve perused through the old threads and YouTube and see that a propane torch and a ape of your own and possibly C4 are required to get the factory flash hider off. I’ll see if a local smith has any experience doing it, if not I’ll just send it to Pete.
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Quoted: Steyr must employ gorillas to install their flash hiders. WTF!!??....lol...I was gonna go to the range and try my AUG with a suppressor today but that’s not happening. I’ve perused through the old threads and YouTube and see that a propane torch and a ape of your own and possibly C4 are required to get the factory flash hider off. I’ll see if a local smith has any experience doing it, if not I’ll just send it to Pete. View Quote Yeah, I’ve gotten flash hiders off everything I own, but I could never budge the Steyr ones. I gave up and sent them to Pete, money well spent. Didn’t trust anyone local to not screw them up. I’ve shot my TPD AUG clone a lot suppressed, 16” barrel, Gemtech HALO, standard Steyr gas regulator. I never noticed much pop, but 5.56 suppressed is still pretty loud so it’s hard to tell. It was better than the AK-74, though not as good as the 16” M4-gery. That said, any suppressed gun is fun. |
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I got plugs and in the past I've sent barrels to Pete but was thinking I'd like to try and break one free on my own.
I shoot my AUG suppressed but only if alone at the range do I ditch the ear pro. I also short load the 30s in case someone sneaks in and fires an elephant gun or something nearby. |
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Quoted: i keep hearing about increased 'port pop' but it's hard for me to visualize it being that noticeable over the sound of the action. maybe one day someone will test it out normal vs suppressor gas plugs with a decibel meter View Quote Have you seen this? http://www.larsondavis.com/ContentStore/mktg/LD_Docs/Firearm_Sound_Briefing.pdf |
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Quoted: I got plugs and in the past I've sent barrels to Pete but was thinking I'd like to try and break one free on my own...... View Quote I had to heat the flash hider up with a torch on two of my old AUG barrels to get them free. Don’t recall if there was any sign of Loctite as it was a long time ago but I do remember they were a bit challenging. |
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Quoted: I've never noticed it and I've used a few different high volume suppressors on a 16" barrel. Is anyone using an AUG suppressed without hearing protection?!? View Quote I do it whenever I'm alone at the range. I'm old and all the benches are under a tin roof so I don't get a true idea of quiet or not. My younger shooting buddies say it's not bad. eta Saker 556 & 762. |
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I have plugs but never got around to putting one in! Kind of like he guy I promised on BPF that I'd install my puplight on an AUG and shoot it and report back to him.
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Any thoughts on OSS suppressors and not using a suppressor gas plug?
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I bought one from their website three or four months ago and it came in. Are they out of stock now?
Never mind. I just checked and they're out of stock. I just checked PJS and they're out as well. If I was you I'd give Pete Athens at PJS a call and ask when he thinks he will get some more in. https://www.steyr-arms.com/us/auggasregulator |
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Quoted: Steyr must employ gorillas to install their flash hiders. WTF!!??....lol...I was gonna go to the range and try my AUG with a suppressor today but that’s not happening. I’ve perused through the old threads and YouTube and see that a propane torch and a ape of your own and possibly C4 are required to get the factory flash hider off. I’ll see if a local smith has any experience doing it, if not I’ll just send it to Pete. View Quote Yeah, I had that unpleasant experience myself. I put my heat gun on it for 20 minutes and put the barrel on the floor and put the two wrenches on the flash hider and the check nut and hammered with a hammer one then the other one in opposite directions and it finally broke loose. I had the same issue with a new Ikon Arms Galil 5.56 pistol that I bought. The flash hider was on so tight that I broke my pinky finger while trying to wrench the flash hider off while the barrel was in the bench vise. The wrench slipped and my fist shot forward right into the steel vice breaking my little finger. After seeing the ER doctor and getting a cast for it, I took it to a gun smith and he said he'd bring it back in 15 minutes. 35 minutes later he came back and said he had a lot of trouble getting it off, even using his big wrench. |
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Quoted: Yeah, I had that unpleasant experience myself. I put my heat gun on it for 20 minutes and put the barrel on the floor and put the two wrenches on the flash hider and the check nut and hammered with a hammer one then the other one in opposite directions and it finally broke loose. I had the same issue with a new Ikon Arms Galil 5.56 pistol that I bought. The flash hider was on so tight that I broke my pinky finger while trying to wrench the flash hider off while the barrel was in the bench vise. The wrench slipped and my fist shot forward right into the steel vice breaking my little finger. After seeing the ER doctor and getting a cast for it, I took it to a gun smith and he said he'd bring it back in 15 minutes. 35 minutes later he came back and said he had a lot of trouble getting it off, even using his big wrench. View Quote I've removed over a dozen flash hiders so far. I have a solid process down now. Heat till the loctite smokes, then two wrenches oriented oposingly, and body weight on a wrench that will force the check nut to tighten on the threads. I've tried hammering and did nothing but bounce a 3# sledge hammer off the wrench. Sustained or bouncing body weight will do it every time. Steyr AUG flash hider removal in 30 seconds |
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A lotttttt of loctite is on those long ass threads. Make sure to torch it until its extra smokey. Did two barrels myself and every subsequent rifle ive bought from Pete ive had him preloosen.
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Yeah, it's a PITA to get those flash hiders off - here's a bunch of info I posted back when the 24" barrels came in...
https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/-ARCHIVED-THREAD-AUG-24-LMG-barrel-special-order-parts-pg-4-installation-instructions/43-449984/?page=3 |
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Maleante’s cardboard and standing on 2 wrenches technique worked perfectly for me today. I was resigned to sending the barrel to Pete to get the flash hider off, but quarantine boredom got the best of me. Quick trip to Harbor Freight, 2 cheap wrench sets, a few minutes on the grinder with each wrench. I don’t have a propane torch, so I went MacGyver and used my gas grill....lol...removed the grates and put the flash hider directly on the flame. Didn’t see the “white smoke” but smoke started to come out of the gas port after about 90 seconds. I figured something was melting, so set on the cardboard, had to stand completely on the wrench (I’m 240lbs) and it finally broke loose. Anyway couldn’t resist posting about it and the obligatory picture. (There was a ridiculous sh*#t ton of Loctite on the threads) Attached File Attached File |
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Quoted: Maleante’s cardboard and standing on 2 wrenches technique worked perfectly for me today. I was resigned to sending the barrel to Pete to get the flash hider off, but quarantine boredom got the best of me. Quick trip to Harbor Freight, 2 cheap wrench sets, a few minutes on the grinder with each wrench. I don’t have a propane torch, so I went MacGyver and used my gas grill....lol...removed the grates and put the flash hider directly on the flame. Didn’t see the “white smoke” but smoke started to come out of the gas port after about 90 seconds. I figured something was melting, so set on the cardboard, had to stand completely on the wrench (I’m 240lbs) and it finally broke loose. Anyway couldn’t resist posting about it and the obligatory picture. (There was a ridiculous sh*#t ton of Loctite on the threads) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59839/A89C0764-1254-4DAA-81A5-E1B828972A4F_jpe-1366145.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59839/315CC552-884A-4A49-A6AF-DE1A195B1456_jpe-1366146.JPG View Quote Attached File I don't think anyone who has NOT tried this can truly appreciate the sense of elation and joy upon finally removing an AUG flash hider!!!! |
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I bought a spare US made 18" barrel for my Steyr Aug, just because I like having an extra, and I went through that dreaded process to remove the flash hider to install an AAC Blackout Flash Hider QD suppressor mount. That is the last that I intend to attempt to remove a Steyr Aug flash hider. Unless, I find a new 24" barrel on a big closeout, sale price.
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Quoted: I've removed over a dozen flash hiders so far. I have a solid process down now. Heat till the loctite smokes, then two wrenches oriented oposingly, and body weight on a wrench that will force the check nut to tighten on the threads. I've tried hammering and did nothing but bounce a 3# sledge hammer off the wrench. Sustained or bouncing body weight will do it every time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGm90yfWuzM View Quote do you have any advise for removing older flash hiders like the 3 prong and A1/A2 tulips that don't have flats? |
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Originally Posted By mcantu: do you have any advise for removing older flash hiders like the 3 prong and A1/A2 tulips that don't have flats? View Quote In the few older barrels I've done this to, my technique is sticking a thin straight screw driver through the FH openings and using a wrench on the paper wrapped check nut (to reduce damage). Typically the nut is loosened against the FH to tighten it down. So by keeping the FH in the same spot and tightening the check nut it should take care of it. To install the old style FH and check nut I just reverse the process and use rockset. The older barrels are not as difficult to work on like the newer barrels that are dipped in thread locker in my experience. It should come off fairly easily. |
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Quoted: In the few older barrels I've done this to, my technique is sticking a thin straight screw driver through the FH openings and using a wrench on the paper wrapped check nut (to reduce damage). Typically the nut is loosened against the FH to tighten it down. So by keeping the FH in the same spot and tightening the check nut it should take care of it. To install the old style FH and check nut I just reverse the process and use rockset. The older barrels are not as difficult to work on like the newer barrels that are dipped in thread locker in my experience. It should come off fairly easily. View Quote thanks is thread locker absolutely necessary? wouldn't the jam/check nut keep things from loosening? if not, does the thread locker need to be on the flash hider and check nut? |
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Originally Posted By mcantu: thanks is thread locker absolutely necessary? wouldn't the jam/check nut keep things from loosening? if not, does the thread locker need to be on the flash hider and check nut? View Quote If it's tight enough you shouldn't need it. I use rockset for peace of mind. My method is to put a couple drops on the threads near the muzzle so that threading on the nut and FH pulls the thread locker down towards the chamber end. Seems to work for me. |
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