As to barrel stabilizer: Original mfr of barrel strut claims that his proprietary (semi-free-floating) clamps are better than rigid clamps offered by competitors. Claims he has tested both types.
IDK, not having tested both, but the "drilled" Accu-Strut seems to offer some weight savings, and the "improved" clamps. Made a significant difference in terms of accuracy on my pencil-barrel 186 series Mini. YMMV.
What really matters is getting a
dual-clamp unit. The single clamp units are, by mfr statement, not nearly as effective as the longer, dual-strut units.
I no longer use wooden stocks when good syn stocks are available. YMMV. The syn stocks are impervious to warpage due to moisture, and can usually be painted, using suitable plastic-friendly spray paint to resemble wood, or given a camo pattern. The syn stocks can be user-modified more easily than most wooden stocks. The (usually) hollow buttstock on most syn stocks is a great place to stash emergency parts/cleaning stuff, and doing so changes the balance point of the rifle, making the muzzle much more "lively". Naturally, one can "tailor" this balance point change to suit. This is a very old trick.
Some folks have reported using modified 1903 Springfield trap-door butt plates, on modern, wooden,
flat-stock Mini Stocks and drilling out the stock to accept desired cleaning kits and so forth. Haven't done it myself. Users of older, wooden, "curved-stock" rifles can still drill-out some cylinders in such stocks, and access contents by removing butt-plate. Again I haven't done this. Instead, opted for hollow buttstock syn stocks, for many reasons. Many users retrofit curved metal butt-plates, currently available, in lieu of curved plastic OEM butt plates. Such metal replacement butt-plates come and go, so if you want one get it while still available. I'd opt for stainless steel, sand it, and paint it. Easy to re-finish when finish is worn, and no rust. FWIW, bought one.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1513880B