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Posted: 3/25/2021 10:49:05 PM EDT
My 7-year-old son likes to do everything I do, and have everything I have, so I traded a pistol for a Mini-14. It was a Tactical version, and got rid of the side-folder and put a Mossy Oak stock on for the moment (looking for a used wood stock).

I removed the flash hider, and the front sight, and purchased the M14 flash suppressor adapter from Accuracy Systems. The USGI parts came from Numrich. I did not know that the adapters now are larger than the original .223 adapters, and at first was frustrated, but after talking to the owner of Accuracy Systems, and an hour in the shop, I'm happy with it.



I purchased a piece of 4140 from McMaster, .560ID/.750OD. Inserted it into the lathe, and very carefully bored it out until it was a snug fit. (I had to use a wooden mallet to tap the gun out of the tube several times, it was that snug.) I then turned it with a ~3.25° taper, and parted it a little over 1.380, and carefully fit it with the front sight assembly, then put it back on and turned it down a few thou, repeat.







Link Posted: 3/25/2021 10:49:41 PM EDT
[#1]
Here's it finished. I think I went .002 too far, and it's maybe .5° off to the left, and I have some .001-.016 shim washers coming in, and will be using them between the back nut of the adapter and the adapter itself, as there is a lot of thread there, to time it perfectly.







I think it looks good enough that I do not have to turn down the adapter as I originally intended to.





Remaining plans:
- making a "stabilizer" assembly (the ones out there are over-priced, and I still haven't seen a really nice looking clamp on any of them)
- wood stock to match my M1A/M14. I have a camo stock that I painted, but I'm not sure if I want to use it or not, yet. With it being a Loaded M1A, the wood stock is pretty nice. I think it might be oversized, which fit my hands well. I wish there was a Youth Model version of the Mini-14, with maybe a 2" shorter stock. I might see if I can shorten a wooden stock, and modify it to accept the M14 butt plate. Hrmm.
- straight mags. Still looking for OE 20rd straight mags, and am looking at other options. I intend on trying to form fit a 6.8 mag I purchased to fit in the .223 Mini-14, and if I can get that to work, I will shape the lips to work with .223.

Once my children can shoot well with iron sights, I will add a scope mount and a scope. They have been shooting my AUG and a Feather AT-22, both with have optics, so they haven't really done any iron sight shooting yet.
Link Posted: 3/25/2021 10:50:29 PM EDT
[#2]
Ugh.  I tried to post pictures, but apparently Google Drive photos don't work.

Link Posted: 3/27/2021 3:20:32 PM EDT
[#3]
As to barrel stabilizer:  Original mfr of barrel strut claims that his proprietary (semi-free-floating) clamps are better than rigid clamps offered by competitors.  Claims he has tested both types.

IDK, not having tested both, but the "drilled" Accu-Strut seems to offer some weight savings, and the "improved" clamps.  Made a significant difference in terms of accuracy on my pencil-barrel 186 series Mini.  YMMV.

What really matters is getting a dual-clamp unit.  The single clamp units are, by mfr statement, not nearly as effective as the longer, dual-strut units.

I no longer use wooden stocks when good syn stocks are available.  YMMV. The syn stocks are impervious to warpage due to moisture, and can usually be painted, using suitable plastic-friendly spray paint to resemble wood, or given a camo pattern.  The syn stocks can be user-modified more easily than most wooden stocks.  The (usually) hollow buttstock on most syn stocks is a great place to stash emergency parts/cleaning stuff, and doing so changes the balance point of the rifle, making the muzzle much more "lively".   Naturally, one can "tailor" this balance point change to suit.  This is a very old trick.

Some folks have reported using modified 1903 Springfield trap-door butt plates, on modern, wooden, flat-stock Mini Stocks and drilling out the stock to accept desired cleaning kits and so forth.  Haven't done it myself.  Users of older, wooden, "curved-stock" rifles can still drill-out some cylinders in such stocks, and access contents by removing butt-plate.  Again I haven't done this.  Instead, opted for hollow buttstock syn stocks, for many reasons.  Many users retrofit curved metal butt-plates, currently available, in lieu of curved plastic OEM butt plates. Such metal replacement butt-plates come and go, so if you want one get it while still available.  I'd opt for stainless steel, sand it, and paint it.  Easy to re-finish when finish is worn, and no rust. FWIW, bought one.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1513880B
Link Posted: 3/27/2021 10:38:30 PM EDT
[#4]
He wants to have the flip-up M14E2 butt plate.  Otherwise I would leave the rubber stock on it.
Link Posted: 3/29/2021 10:18:25 AM EDT
[#5]
Heavier "flip-up" metal M-14 butt plate was installed in the event the M-14 was used, with bipod, in full-auto fire.  Most users are better off without it.  Some mods can be a step backwards, and this is likely one of them. YMMV, and no offense.
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