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Posted: 3/8/2023 11:24:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
So my F1 81mm mortar was approved yesterday, can anyone recommend someone who can make an 81mm barrel?
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/8/2023 12:58:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Third_Rail]
[#1]
Any machine shop - assuming you registered/engraved the cup and don't need that made too. They'll need measurements obviously but getting decent hydraulic CDS A519 4140 and boring the inside/turning the outside is a pretty common operation. Same with any needed threads.
Hopefully there's an outfit that already does this somewhat regularly or the dimensions are available. |
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Posted: 3/9/2023 10:30:14 AM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the material type, Third_Rail. That's the kind of info that I needed. And yeah, the cup is good to go.
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Posted: 3/9/2023 10:44:25 AM EDT
[#3]
are you going to document this build?
As a former tube stroker, this thread has my interest. |
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Posted: 3/9/2023 1:21:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LineOfDeparture: are you going to document this build? As a former tube stroker, this thread has my interest. I feel like there isn't much to document as I have a factory surplus Serb (or Yugo ) mortar system(M69B-D), base plate, bi-pod, receiver/cup, and de milled barrel. I just need a barrel/tube to screw on the registered cup. (still need to remove the receiver from the demilled barrel tho) And I don't have a machine shop to do a barrel myself so it would be sourced out. But I'll document it as I go and if there's enough stuff that I end up doing to it (refinishing it), then I'll post it in a thread. The thread will be slow AF if I start it now as I don't know if I'll be able to complete it within a year. So I'm thinking of documenting as much as I can and saving it, then posting it all at once in a new thread. But here's a before pic in the mean time. Nothing elegant 
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/9/2023 3:16:06 PM EDT
[#5]
The fact you have a demilled barrel to start from makes my suggestion about ideal. Take it apart and have a machine shop whip up a new one. Make sure to specify CDS A519 "hydraulic tubing" out of 4140 or similar for exceptional strength. Most of the cost won't be the materials in any case - might as well get the best commonly available stock to have it made from.
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Posted: 3/9/2023 4:27:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: The fact you have a demilled barrel to start from makes my suggestion about ideal. Take it apart and have a machine shop whip up a new one. Make sure to specify CDS A519 "hydraulic tubing" out of 4140 or similar for exceptional strength. Most of the cost won't be the materials in any case - might as well get the best commonly available stock to have it made from. Will do, I'm assuming that material will handle the full six charges/increments? |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/9/2023 6:28:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Third_Rail]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Will do, I'm assuming that material will handle the full six charges/increments? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Originally Posted By Third_Rail: The fact you have a demilled barrel to start from makes my suggestion about ideal. Take it apart and have a machine shop whip up a new one. Make sure to specify CDS A519 "hydraulic tubing" out of 4140 or similar for exceptional strength. Most of the cost won't be the materials in any case - might as well get the best commonly available stock to have it made from. Will do, I'm assuming that material will handle the full six charges/increments? As long as it's honest-to-God cold drawn seamless A519 4140 it'll handle full charges no problem. If for whatever reason you find a shop that won't order the material for you - or you'd prefer to buy it yourself - places like Alro will sell the stock. Looks like you'll need a 3" ID to open to spec, and a ballpark guess on the largest OD (where the ring/boss at the muzzle is) is 4". In that example you'd want to get 4" OD 1/2" wall giving 3" ID to be bored open to 3.189" plus whatever windage has been designed in for the bore. I don't know what kind of clearance Stokes types mortars have around the projectiles. If the ring at the muzzle is larger then you'll have to go with a thicker wall and larger OD to get the same 3" approximate ID for boring out. ETA: Giving it some more thought if you'd like an even larger margin of safety get some seamless A519 HF (hot finished) 4140. About 120/90kpsi tensile/yield versus 80/60kpsi.  Without going to relatively uncommon alloys it would be harder to do better than that. In your case - since you'll be having it bored/turned anyway - there's no harm in the comparatively rougher finish. It should be slightly cheaper too. |
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Posted: 3/10/2023 12:55:23 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: As long as it's honest-to-God cold drawn seamless A519 4140 it'll handle full charges no problem. If for whatever reason you find a shop that won't order the material for you - or you'd prefer to buy it yourself - places like Alro will sell the stock. Looks like you'll need a 3" ID to open to spec, and a ballpark guess on the largest OD (where the ring/boss at the muzzle is) is 4". In that example you'd want to get 4" OD 1/2" wall giving 3" ID to be bored open to 3.189" plus whatever windage has been designed in for the bore. I don't know what kind of clearance Stokes types mortars have around the projectiles. If the ring at the muzzle is larger then you'll have to go with a thicker wall and larger OD to get the same 3" approximate ID for boring out. ETA: Giving it some more thought if you'd like an even larger margin of safety get some seamless A519 HF (hot finished) 4140. About 120/90kpsi tensile/yield versus 80/60kpsi. Without going to relatively uncommon alloys it would be harder to do better than that. In your case - since you'll be having it bored/turned anyway - there's no harm in the comparatively rougher finish. It should be slightly cheaper too. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Originally Posted By Third_Rail: The fact you have a demilled barrel to start from makes my suggestion about ideal. Take it apart and have a machine shop whip up a new one. Make sure to specify CDS A519 "hydraulic tubing" out of 4140 or similar for exceptional strength. Most of the cost won't be the materials in any case - might as well get the best commonly available stock to have it made from. Will do, I'm assuming that material will handle the full six charges/increments? As long as it's honest-to-God cold drawn seamless A519 4140 it'll handle full charges no problem. If for whatever reason you find a shop that won't order the material for you - or you'd prefer to buy it yourself - places like Alro will sell the stock. Looks like you'll need a 3" ID to open to spec, and a ballpark guess on the largest OD (where the ring/boss at the muzzle is) is 4". In that example you'd want to get 4" OD 1/2" wall giving 3" ID to be bored open to 3.189" plus whatever windage has been designed in for the bore. I don't know what kind of clearance Stokes types mortars have around the projectiles. If the ring at the muzzle is larger then you'll have to go with a thicker wall and larger OD to get the same 3" approximate ID for boring out. ETA: Giving it some more thought if you'd like an even larger margin of safety get some seamless A519 HF (hot finished) 4140. About 120/90kpsi tensile/yield versus 80/60kpsi. Without going to relatively uncommon alloys it would be harder to do better than that. In your case - since you'll be having it bored/turned anyway - there's no harm in the comparatively rougher finish. It should be slightly cheaper too. Ah cool, thanks. 
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USA
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Posted: 3/10/2023 2:18:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7insert]
[#9]
Assuming this is a Bowman demill, remove the bore obstruction and patch it back into the tube. Then weld an extra safety ring externally around it out of 4140. Yugos had these originally rated at >610 Bar of pressure in the bore area so for anything you can load that will do sufficient
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/10/2023 3:24:31 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Assuming this is a Bowman demill, remove the bore obstruction and patch it back into the tube. Then weld an extra safety ring externally around it out of 4140. Yugos had these originalyl rated at >610 Bar of pressure in the bore area so for anything you can load that will do sufficient That would also save a couple few thousand dollars for sure! |
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USA
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Posted: 3/10/2023 3:29:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: That would also save a couple few thousand dollars for sure! At the price of a minor aesthetic difference on the outside but rule of cool with the mortar gets a pass for that 
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Posted: 3/10/2023 4:34:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Assuming this is a Bowman demill, remove the bore obstruction and patch it back into the tube. Then weld an extra safety ring externally around it out of 4140. Yugos had these originally rated at >610 Bar of pressure in the bore area so for anything you can load that will do sufficient It is, there is also another little hole (about half inch drilled hole) in the threads section and cup. How would I go about plugging that one up? |
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USA
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Posted: 3/10/2023 7:25:56 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: It is, there is also another little hole (about half inch drilled hole) in the threads section and cup. How would I go about plugging that one up? Can you post a photo? Ive only seen the demill section in the tube itself. Did you buy the cup title 1 (you filled out a 4473) from bowman or did he sell you a demilled one? |
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Posted: 3/12/2023 12:27:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Can you post a photo? Ive only seen the demill section in the tube itself. Did you buy the cup title 1 (you filled out a 4473) from bowman or did he sell you a demilled one? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: It is, there is also another little hole (about half inch drilled hole) in the threads section and cup. How would I go about plugging that one up? Can you post a photo? Ive only seen the demill section in the tube itself. Did you buy the cup title 1 (you filled out a 4473) from bowman or did he sell you a demilled one? Title 1. Hole is drilled straight through the cup into the barrel. 
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Posted: 3/12/2023 12:33:14 AM EDT
[#15]
tag
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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/12/2023 1:20:58 AM EDT
[#16]
That hole looks to me to be able to be tapped and plugged.
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USA
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Posted: 3/13/2023 12:06:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7insert]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Title 1. Hole is drilled straight through the cup into the barrel. https://i.imgur.com/CEqgKlb.jpg Interesting, not sure why they demilled that other than perhaps some european requirement? Id echo the other poster ITT and probably tap, thread in a plug, weld over plug. Bonus safety plate as well if youd like. If lazy you could get a chunk of steel rod, put the tip in hole, weld up nice and then cut/grind flush with the outside. The cup came with a firing pin, right? If you have any ability to draw id immediately draw it up, a bent pin will deadline the system. Not sure if it uses US pins like the 60mm yugo mortars that came in ~5yr ago, would hate to find out after the fact 
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Posted: 3/13/2023 3:48:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Interesting, not sure why they demilled that other than perhaps some european requirement? Id echo the other poster ITT and probably tap, thread in a plug, weld over plug. Bonus safety plate as well if youd like. If lazy you could get a chunk of steel rod, put the tip in hole, weld up nice and then cut/grind flush with the outside. The cup came with a firing pin, right? If you have any ability to draw id immediately draw it up, a bent pin will deadline the system. Not sure if it uses US pins like the 60mm yugo mortars that came in ~5yr ago, would hate to find out after the fact Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Title 1. Hole is drilled straight through the cup into the barrel. https://i.imgur.com/CEqgKlb.jpg Interesting, not sure why they demilled that other than perhaps some european requirement? Id echo the other poster ITT and probably tap, thread in a plug, weld over plug. Bonus safety plate as well if youd like. If lazy you could get a chunk of steel rod, put the tip in hole, weld up nice and then cut/grind flush with the outside. The cup came with a firing pin, right? If you have any ability to draw id immediately draw it up, a bent pin will deadline the system. Not sure if it uses US pins like the 60mm yugo mortars that came in ~5yr ago, would hate to find out after the fact No idea either. And yeah, it came with a functioning firing pin that popped it's first primer on Sunday. That was also the plan, make a 2nd firing pin as it's not similar to the US 60mm one. Since this mortar system has a functioning safety, that moves the FP away from the breech face, I guess that's why it's different. You can also see the hole that goes through the cup and barrel in this gif. Safety on, safety off, safety on, safety off.  |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2023 5:23:50 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: No idea either. And yeah, it came with a functioning firing pin that popped it's first primer on Sunday. That was also the plan, make a 2nd firing pin as it's not similar to the US 60mm one. Since this mortar system has a functioning safety, that moves the FP away from the breech face, I guess that's why it's different. You can also see the hole that goes through the cup and barrel in this gif. Safety on, safety off, safety on, safety off. https://i.imgur.com/1z80wWs.gif Interesting safety feature! What does the firing pin itself look like? I assume it's fairly simple and the safety engaged a notch and cams it back. |
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Posted: 3/13/2023 5:59:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: Interesting safety feature! What does the firing pin itself look like? I assume it's fairly simple and the safety engaged a notch and cams it back. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: No idea either. And yeah, it came with a functioning firing pin that popped it's first primer on Sunday. That was also the plan, make a 2nd firing pin as it's not similar to the US 60mm one. Since this mortar system has a functioning safety, that moves the FP away from the breech face, I guess that's why it's different. You can also see the hole that goes through the cup and barrel in this gif. Safety on, safety off, safety on, safety off. https://i.imgur.com/1z80wWs.gif Interesting safety feature! What does the firing pin itself look like? I assume it's fairly simple and the safety engaged a notch and cams it back. I'll get a pic later today. Edit: So yeah, I assume it slides the firing pin holder up and down. Can't really tell much right now as the cup is torqued on pretty tight and haven't gotten around to remove it. To put the selector in the fire position, simply lift the knob and slide it down to the fire position.   It also has a screw cap that protects the firing pin channel from debris if I were to guess.  Unscrew it to gain access to firing pin channel.  Now you can unscrew the firing pin. It's about 6 inches long.  This is the firing pin "holder" that slides it into or out of position when you engage the safety or disengage it.  |
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Posted: 3/20/2023 3:56:04 PM EDT
[#21]
I’m interested to see how this goes. I bought one of the apex 60mm a few years back. Haven’t done anything with it yet, so curious to see how you do yours.
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Posted: 3/21/2023 9:50:01 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mace2364: I’m interested to see how this goes. I bought one of the apex 60mm a few years back. Haven’t done anything with it yet, so curious to see how you do yours. I wanted one of those, but hesitated on purchasing one. I wanted that to be my first DD stamp, but then they were out of stock and never to be seen again. Didn't hesitate when these came in.
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USA
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Posted: 3/21/2023 12:34:30 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: I wanted one of those, but hesitated on purchasing one. I wanted that to be my first DD stamp, but then they were out of stock and never to be seen again. Didn't hesitate when these came in. Ended up in exactly the same boat with the apex 60mms Where did you find your sight for yours? |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 1:50:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Ended up in exactly the same boat with the apex 60mms Where did you find your sight for yours? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 7insert: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: I wanted one of those, but hesitated on purchasing one. I wanted that to be my first DD stamp, but then they were out of stock and never to be seen again. Didn't hesitate when these came in. Ended up in exactly the same boat with the apex 60mms Where did you find your sight for yours? Got lucky and found a polish sight on instagram, seller is overseas but got my item within a week or two. If they don't have one listed, shoot them a message, worked for me. instagram https://www.cold-war-collectables.co.uk/ |
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Posted: 4/8/2023 9:03:31 PM EDT
[#25]
Second attempt to remove the cup was a success. The tripod chain vise and a big ass pipe wrench with a 4ft cheater bar made it super easy.
The cup is really torqued on tho. 
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MT, USA
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Posted: 4/9/2023 3:03:37 PM EDT
[#26]
I don't see a torch in frame. You did heat the cup a bit to make your life easier right?
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NH, USA
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Posted: 4/10/2023 7:31:24 AM EDT
[#27]
Bowman mentioned in another thread cutting off the bottom few inches of the tube and rethreading it to deal with the hole. He says it ends up being the same length as the German WW II 81mm. I don't know if rethreading something that size is more difficult than welding over the hole, but it's a decent idea and eliminates the worries about pressure.
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MT, USA
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Posted: 4/10/2023 8:22:28 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheFaz: Bowman mentioned in another thread cutting off the bottom few inches of the tube and rethreading it to deal with the hole. He says it ends up being the same length as the German WW II 81mm. I don't know if rethreading something that size is more difficult than welding over the hole, but it's a decent idea and eliminates the worries about pressure. Parting it shorter to face and thread would be child's play honestly. Anyone or any shop used to machining hydraulic cylinders could do it in a couple hours. The hard part is having a lathe big enough with a decent steadyrest. |
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USA
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Posted: 4/10/2023 9:50:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SteelonSteel]
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: Parting it shorter to face and thread would be child's play honestly. Anyone or any shop used to machining hydraulic cylinders could do it in a couple hours. The hard part is having a lathe big enough with a decent steadyrest. Yea, that’s not going through the head like a rifle barrel! ETA. as a vertically challenged former mortarman (4.2” on a track) I say cut her back in length over welding up holes. |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 10:07:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: I don't see a torch in frame. You did heat the cup a bit to make your life easier right? LOL That was gonna be my 3rd attempt. But didn't get to that part cause it took all of 10 minutes to set up the tripod, clamp the tube, try it twice with just that pipe wrench(cause 1st try was just to see if the tripod would hold and not tip over, 2nd attempt was to jump on the pipe wrench but that did nothing ), then looked for some scrap tubing my friend had laying around and tried it with that and it broke free without putting too much force on the cheater bar.Another poster in weapons guild is posting his build process and said his cup was torqued on tight as well and had a little trouble getting it off. My first attempt last weekend, I tried setting the cup (on the flats) on the vice but it just kept rolling out. I was hoping that I'd get lucky and mine wasn't torqued on THAT tight, but fail. Then I remembered my buddy has that tripod vise. |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 10:22:38 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheFaz: Bowman mentioned in another thread cutting off the bottom few inches of the tube and rethreading it to deal with the hole. He says it ends up being the same length as the German WW II 81mm. I don't know if rethreading something that size is more difficult than welding over the hole, but it's a decent idea and eliminates the worries about pressure. That would have been so easy if the Serbs would've left a little more material on the tube's OD. The tube's were originally threaded and then turned down after the threads. So the OD of the threaded area is larger than the OD of the rest of the tube. I was thinking if it was possible and safe to use like a thread adapter. Cut the section with the hole, thread the tube, then cut a small section of hydraulic tubing and thread one end for the tube, and the other for the cup. But not sure if there's enough material in the remaining tube and if the threads would hold. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 4/10/2023 12:04:38 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: That would have been so easy if the Serbs would've left a little more material on the tube's OD. The tube's were originally threaded and then turned down after the threads. So the OD of the threaded area is larger than the OD of the rest of the tube. I was thinking if it was possible and safe to use like a thread adapter. Cut the section with the hole, thread the tube, then cut a small section of hydraulic tubing and thread one end for the tube, and the other for the cup. But not sure if there's enough material in the remaining tube and if the threads would hold. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Originally Posted By TheFaz: Bowman mentioned in another thread cutting off the bottom few inches of the tube and rethreading it to deal with the hole. He says it ends up being the same length as the German WW II 81mm. I don't know if rethreading something that size is more difficult than welding over the hole, but it's a decent idea and eliminates the worries about pressure. That would have been so easy if the Serbs would've left a little more material on the tube's OD. The tube's were originally threaded and then turned down after the threads. So the OD of the threaded area is larger than the OD of the rest of the tube. I was thinking if it was possible and safe to use like a thread adapter. Cut the section with the hole, thread the tube, then cut a small section of hydraulic tubing and thread one end for the tube, and the other for the cup. But not sure if there's enough material in the remaining tube and if the threads would hold. I wouldn't personally overlap threads on the highest pressure area of a mortar like that unless there's quite a bit of meat to the barrel. It sounds like there isn't but I don't have measurements. If you have some dial calipers I could give you a better answer. |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 12:09:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: I wouldn't personally overlap threads on the highest pressure area of a mortar like that unless there's quite a bit of meat to the barrel. It sounds like there isn't but I don't have measurements. If you have some dial calipers I could give you a better answer. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Third_Rail: Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Originally Posted By TheFaz: Bowman mentioned in another thread cutting off the bottom few inches of the tube and rethreading it to deal with the hole. He says it ends up being the same length as the German WW II 81mm. I don't know if rethreading something that size is more difficult than welding over the hole, but it's a decent idea and eliminates the worries about pressure. That would have been so easy if the Serbs would've left a little more material on the tube's OD. The tube's were originally threaded and then turned down after the threads. So the OD of the threaded area is larger than the OD of the rest of the tube. I was thinking if it was possible and safe to use like a thread adapter. Cut the section with the hole, thread the tube, then cut a small section of hydraulic tubing and thread one end for the tube, and the other for the cup. But not sure if there's enough material in the remaining tube and if the threads would hold. I wouldn't personally overlap threads on the highest pressure area of a mortar like that unless there's quite a bit of meat to the barrel. It sounds like there isn't but I don't have measurements. If you have some dial calipers I could give you a better answer. The measurement might not be accurate, need to recheck. But it's around there. I'll get better measurements tonight. 
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MT, USA
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Posted: 4/10/2023 2:10:37 PM EDT
[#34]
I also need to know the the OD of the portion just towards the muzzle of the demil hole and OD and TPI of the threaded area.
At a glance it looks totally doable. |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 11:42:29 PM EDT
[#35]
Don't have thread gauges. TPI I'm getting is 11.42, 16 threads total, and 1.42 inches of thread section.
So the thickness of the area towards the muzzle on the demil hole is 0.2285  Thickness of the threaded area is 0.3075  The OD of the threaded area is 3.8150  The best measurement(don't have longer calipers) I could get of the OD in front of the demil hole towards the muzzle is 3.6630 
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MT, USA
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Posted: 4/11/2023 9:05:17 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Don't have thread gauges. TPI I'm getting is 11.42, 16 threads total, and 1.42 inches of thread section. So the thickness of the area towards the muzzle on the demil hole is 0.2285 https://i.imgur.com/TAh14fm.jpg Thickness of the threaded area is 0.3075 https://i.imgur.com/1fQMaMp.jpg The OD of the threaded area is 3.8150 https://i.imgur.com/fMMbwnV.jpg The best measurement(don't have longer calipers) I could get of the OD in front of the demil hole towards the muzzle is 3.6630 https://i.imgur.com/gCChcde.jpg Looks totally doable to shorten it then sleeve and thread the sleeve. Or if there's a willing machine shop you could have them shorten it and do a buildup with some dual shield or similar then machine that down for threading. |
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Posted: 4/11/2023 9:50:14 AM EDT
[#37]
Oh ok, well got options then.
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Posted: 4/11/2023 10:20:03 PM EDT
[#38]
After reading all the great info on this thread, I just ordered a Deactivated 81mm Yugo M69B Mortar.
I'm going to show my total ignorance of mortars here, couldn't find anything on the web, but are "most" 81mm mortar rounds interchangeable with other 81mm mortars? |
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Posted: 4/12/2023 12:37:17 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TreddBarton: After reading all the great info on this thread, I just ordered a Deactivated 81mm Yugo M69B Mortar. I'm going to show my total ignorance of mortars here, couldn't find anything on the web, but are "most" 81mm mortar rounds interchangeable with other 81mm mortars? Just note, Bob further de milled their mortars. (not sure if all of them, or just some) And I'm pretty sure you can use any 81mm mortar round. |
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Posted: 4/12/2023 9:21:04 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TreddBarton: After reading all the great info on this thread, I just ordered a Deactivated 81mm Yugo M69B Mortar. I'm going to show my total ignorance of mortars here, couldn't find anything on the web, but are "most" 81mm mortar rounds interchangeable with other 81mm mortars? OK I given in. Point me to a website where I need to order one of these. Or am I stuck using gunbroker? |
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Posted: 4/13/2023 8:11:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TreddBarton]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chrishag: OK I given in. Point me to a website where I need to order one of these. Or am I stuck using gunbroker? Here you go and they put them on sale a few days ago, which is what really pulled me into buying one. That's a hell of a deal, you get the tube, base, tripod with T&E, plus a demo round. https://bowmanarms.com/81mm-yugo-m69b-mortar-deactivated-pk/ |
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Posted: 4/13/2023 9:05:07 AM EDT
[#42]
Anymore exist that transfer through ffl? These look like the cup has been demilled a bit more aggressively than the one the
OP posted. |
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Posted: 4/13/2023 9:24:05 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chrishag: Anymore exist that transfer through ffl? These look like the cup has been demilled a bit more aggressively than the one the OP posted. I'd call and ask. |
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Posted: 4/17/2023 12:16:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: walkinginadangerzone]
[#44]
Update for the tube. I think Dangerous Bob is considering making a run of a batch of these tubes if he gets enough orders, so if you're interested in a new one you might want to contact him.
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Posted: 4/20/2023 11:09:55 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Update for the tube. I think Dangerous Bob is considering making a run of a batch of these tubes if he gets enough orders, so if you're interested in a new one you might want to contact him. I would be in for an 81mm and an 82mm depending on price. |
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Posted: 6/16/2023 11:04:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: MHIDPA]
[#46]
Tag for interest and updates. I'm thinking about buying one of these.
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Posted: 6/16/2023 11:10:25 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MHIDPA: Tag for interest and updates. I'm thinking about buying one of these Not sure how many bowman arms has left. Last I read (a few weeks ago) they only had some that had bipod parts missing and that they might be machining those parts in order to sell them. As far as the barrel/tube, Hamilton and son's Firearms is making a run of barrels for these. So, if you might want one, contact them. |
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Posted: 6/16/2023 1:49:58 PM EDT
[#48]
Hamilton & Sons may be doing a run of barrels. They're GTG.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2023 7:28:23 PM EDT
[#49]
Dangerous Bob works for Hamilton and sons. Just so everyone knows that it's not two people making them
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Posted: 6/18/2023 10:34:32 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SGT-Fish: Dangerous Bob works for Hamilton and sons. Just so everyone knows that it's not two people making them Yup. The whole crew there are great people. |
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