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Posted: 12/18/2019 10:09:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Norma brass.
I use 4320 in mine with Sierra 174/180. For plinking I use the Privi 150's. The bolt is similar to a Mauser I think. Could try Numrich for parts. |
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Posted: 12/18/2019 10:12:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Norma brass. I use 4320 in mine with Sierra 174/180. For plinking I use the Privi 150's. The bolt is similar to a Mauser I think. Could try Numrich for parts. |
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Posted: 12/19/2019 12:24:17 AM EDT
[#3]
Of course the Type 99 destroys reformed 30-06 cases, the 7.7 Arisaka case is not based on the 30-06 case, it has its own distinctively different case, and the 7.7 case is larger at the base than the 30-06 case is. I had one many years ago, and found that 30-06 cases might last two loadings if I was lucky. The '06 case expands at the base, and unevenly at that, then you size it back down and it cracks pretty quickly. I see where some think the difference is trivial, but as you are discovering, it is not. Buy correct brass for it.
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Posted: 12/19/2019 12:26:59 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Cross posting this from another forum Im on for a second opinion. So I took my new Type 99 to the range this weekend. Rifle blew me away with how accurate it was, sights were dead on at 100 yards. It had no trouble holding the 9 ring on a SR target at 200 yards, I think I can hold the 10 ring with some load development. Anywho, this gun destroys brass. Im using reformed HXP '68 30-06 cases. My load was a tad hot as the primers were pretty flat, which I guess is what I should have expected with mil spec cases. I will dial back a grain which should correct that issue. Aside from that, the base of the cases all have a pretty big bulge on one side. Resizing the cases tonight took a ton of effort, and you can tell the brass was worked pretty hard where that bulge was. My question is, how many loadings should I expect to get? 3-4 was my guess, but I dont want to risk a case head separation. My new load is gonna be: 42 grains IMR 4320 180 grain Sierra SP / 174 grain Hornady HPBT (gonna try both this time, the SP bullets did really well.) COAL: 3.1" Also, anyone know how to remove the extractor claw from a Type 99 bolt? I need to replace mine as it doesnt extract cases out of the chamber, or kick out the ones it does grab. |
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Posted: 12/19/2019 2:31:55 AM EDT
[#5]
Scotch tape at the base keeps the bulge on 30-06 brass.
Anneal your brass and you will double the life. Remove the scotch tape after firing and before you clean the brass. Also buy a mini pipe cutter from harbor freight, will save time cutting necks from 30-06. |
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Posted: 12/19/2019 7:47:43 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Scotch tape at the base keeps the bulge on 30-06 brass. Anneal your brass and you will double the life. Remove the scotch tape after firing and before you clean the brass. Also buy a mini pipe cutter from harbor freight, will save time cutting necks from 30-06. |
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Posted: 12/19/2019 10:34:22 AM EDT
[#7]
Hmmm. I used some .270 brass to make 7.7 some time ago. I can’t remember if I ever got around to reloading and using it again after I shot it the first time.
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Posted: 12/19/2019 2:35:11 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So if I do the tape thing for the first firing, could I get away with no tape and just neck sizing from then on? It makes sense in my head that that would be the case. I would be left with a uniform bulge, instead of the one side bulged out. It just lets you get away with using 06 brass by filling that air gap with polymer instead of having brass that fits. Do you know how to use a bent paper clip to inspect for incipient case head separation? If you can wet tumble to keep the inside of the case clean, it makes inspecting the internal case wall much easier. It isn’t a hard requirement, it just makes it easy to do a visual if the paper clip finds anything suspicious. You can still run the paper clip inspection on dry tumbled brass too. Measure the diameter of the fired case bulge as a guide to how much tape to use, and then check fit and function with the chamber on prepped empty brass to make sure you didn’t over do the tape. Some late war examples were poorly made, but since you say the gun groups, you might consider a chamber casting to guide your brass prep. |
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Posted: 12/19/2019 3:02:58 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So if I do the tape thing for the first firing, could I get away with no tape and just neck sizing from then on? It makes sense in my head that that would be the case. I would be left with a uniform bulge, instead of the one side bulged out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Scotch tape at the base keeps the bulge on 30-06 brass. Anneal your brass and you will double the life. Remove the scotch tape after firing and before you clean the brass. Also buy a mini pipe cutter from harbor freight, will save time cutting necks from 30-06. You will have to apply it again each time you shoot. You can also lower your charge, use specific 7.7 Japanese brass for hot loads, use converted 30-06 for plinking. I also use powdercoated cast bullets to fireform my brass using a very light load. After fireformed and cleaned, I will anneal again before resizing and going hotter. |
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Posted: 12/19/2019 4:08:25 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Remove the tape before reprocessing your brass. You will have to apply it again each time you shoot. You can also lower your charge, use specific 7.7 Japanese brass for hot loads, use converted 30-06 for plinking. I also use powdercoated cast bullets to fireform my brass using a very light load. After fireformed and cleaned, I will anneal again before resizing and going hotter. |
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Posted: 12/21/2019 8:29:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since I plan on neck sizing after the first firing, I dont think the tape will be required after the first firing. At that point the case is fire formed to the center of the chamber, any bulge that happens then will be concentric, not to one side. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Remove the tape before reprocessing your brass. You will have to apply it again each time you shoot. You can also lower your charge, use specific 7.7 Japanese brass for hot loads, use converted 30-06 for plinking. I also use powdercoated cast bullets to fireform my brass using a very light load. After fireformed and cleaned, I will anneal again before resizing and going hotter. I don’t run hot 30-06 converted brass so I’m not worried about the bulge. If you neck size after fireformed and take off the tape, it will bulge and now not concentric. You will then have to FL size. But your chamber could be more worn? My fps is in the middle of a new barrel and worn out barrel. |
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Posted: 12/22/2019 1:32:43 PM EDT
[#12]
I run a light load of H4895, mostly in converted 06 brass, with 174 gr bullets. I haven't had any issues, yet, with the brass. I use data from the Hornady book, if I recall about 2400 fps. Oddly, it is a very fun rifle to shoot. I have worked a load with RL 15, based on 303 British load data, that I am going to try. Not sure if any of you have tried RL 15?
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Posted: 12/22/2019 3:08:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I run a light load of H4895, mostly in converted 06 brass, with 174 gr bullets. I haven't had any issues, yet, with the brass. I use data from the Hornady book, if I recall about 2400 fps. Oddly, it is a very fun rifle to shoot. I have worked a load with RL 15, based on 303 British load data, that I am going to try. Not sure if any of you have tried RL 15? |
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Posted: 2/13/2020 6:23:11 PM EDT
[#14]
Anyone try 8mm mauser brass reformed?
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Posted: 2/13/2020 8:11:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone try 8mm mauser brass reformed? By 7.7 or convert 30-06 |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 9:03:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes it comes up short. By 7.7 or convert 30-06 It it better to anneal the .30-06 case before or after the conversion? |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 9:28:56 PM EDT
[#17]
After
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Posted: 2/16/2020 12:36:04 AM EDT
[#18]
As a general rule, cases are annealed before forming.
That way neck is soft and have less of a tendency to crack when fire formed. |
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Posted: 2/16/2020 7:17:13 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As a general rule, cases are annealed before forming. That way neck is soft and have less of a tendency to crack when fire formed. |
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Posted: 2/16/2020 10:45:31 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes it comes up short. By 7.7 or convert 30-06 |
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Posted: 2/17/2020 12:22:43 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How about .270? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes it comes up short. By 7.7 or convert 30-06 |
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Posted: 2/17/2020 3:04:52 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok, another question. It it better to anneal the .30-06 case before or after the conversion? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes it comes up short. By 7.7 or convert 30-06 It it better to anneal the .30-06 case before or after the conversion? Softening it will help it resize to 7.7 better. [edit] dryflash already mentioned it. |
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Posted: 2/17/2020 3:06:44 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How about .270? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes it comes up short. By 7.7 or convert 30-06 |
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Posted: 2/17/2020 3:13:42 PM EDT
[#24]
OP,
Buy a .311-.314 mold and cast some 150-180gr bullets for it. After my converted brass is ready for the 7.7 Japanese, I will load a light load to fireform. Not necessary but you get a nice light plinker your first round and then a great fireformed brass after. Using the sights are fun too with light plinking loads, turns the gun into a lobber. Fun to try to hit targets at 500 yards with a cast round leaving the barrel at 1,400fps. 
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Posted: 2/17/2020 3:19:02 PM EDT
[#25]
Grafs.com has 7.7 Japanese brass and grafs is the only site that sells Hornady 150gr SST bullets in .312”!
I get MOA with that bullet if you do your part. You can also shoot .308 but accuracy will suffer. I got 1.5” - 2” at 50 yards. But it will hit a soda can. |
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Posted: 2/20/2020 11:51:49 PM EDT
[#26]
Its been a few months, figure its time for an update. Ive got 2 firings on my set of 50 converted HXP 30-06 cases with no issues. I anneal first, full length size and load to my normal full power load then shoot the round with a strip of tape around the case head. After that I remove the tape, neck size and shoot sans tape. An occasional sticky bolt upon closing but aside from that no issues.
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Posted: 3/1/2020 5:03:27 PM EDT
[#27]
I've annealed my first few cases (new Winchester .30-06), FL resized, trimmed and a dummy made using Hornady 150gr SP .312. It is just a smidgen snug when closing the bolt, when compared to a vintage Japanese round I have.
Case length is about a thousands long, and I doubt I have any die adjustment left.. Any thoughts? |
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Posted: 3/1/2020 6:08:03 PM EDT
[#28]
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Posted: 3/1/2020 6:58:01 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Curiosity got to me. I was wondering how hard it was to get 7.7 brass. Not very hard at all. |
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Posted: 3/5/2020 1:48:52 AM EDT
[#30]
OP:
If your chamber is on the high side of Jap spec, you might try reforming 9.3x62 brass. I just checked some Graf 9.3 cases and they miked .473 just in front of the extractor groove. FWIW. |
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