I would like to build a 416 ruger rifle, I would like to take it on a hunting trip to Africa one day, maybe Alaska and Canada as well but nothing on the market (there are only a couple) really appeal to me so I thought about building my own.

I’m going to throw out my ideal features and I would appreciate some of your thoughts, suggestions, varying opinions etc.

-20” barrel with 5R rifling, probably bartlein, threaded for a can.
•• maybe a medium contour with some fluting and have it dovetailed for sights.

- Synthetic stock, I would like a more modern type of rifle instead of the classic safari look.

- Action, here is where it gets a little sticky. 416 ruger fits in a standard long action length and it would be nice to use a 700 footprint because of all the stock options it would open up but I know there are some arguments against that action type for dangerous game.

- I would really like to use detachable mags, like AICS mags which I think is possible so a bottom metal for that would be great

-trigger, I’ll burn that bridge after the action is sorted out.

Has anyone ever done a build like this or similar? Thanks for the input!

I would love to dee pictures of this build as you make progress.   The subforum also has a large rifle section I believe its under outdoors.  They may be able to give you more information on the platform you are building.  The availability of ammo is one of the biggest reasons most use other cartridges in case of your s getting lost.

I'm just here to say that I have no .416 Ruger, but I do have a .375 Ruger Alaskan and it is a beast.

Absolutely a no regrets purchase, not sure I would undergo the effort to build a one off custom though.
Attached File


Next to an 18.7" GSR in .308 for size

Zermatt Arms Origin or TL3
Manners Carbon side folder
Barrel of your choice spun by a vetted smith.
TriggerTech trigger. Primary set at about 2.5 lbs is what I hunt with.

The Origin is a pinned lug, TL3 is integral both are R700 footprint. Side folder for portability, carbon for weight, chassis base so it takes AICS mags. Any smith worth their salt should be able to spin up a barrel for you. TS Customs, Radix Precision, Owens Armory are all guys I recommend. TriggerTech has been my “go to” since they came stateside.

The .416 Ruger is quality. I have 3 in 375 including a take down rifle. I only avoided the .416 because I was concerned about brass availability. I stocked up on the .375 brass. Tagged for pictures.

416 Ruger is a good round.  It nips at the heels of the 416 Rem Mag and 416 Rigby in terms of power.  The only real issue you run into with it is only a couple manufacturers make ammo for it - Hornady and Buffalo Bore.  If you want something else you need to reload for it.  The 416 Rem Mag and 416 Rigby are much more common - anyone who makes dangerous game ammo makes 416 Rem and Rigby ammo.  I know I've heard people say in Alaska 416 Ruger ammo is pretty easy to find, but in Africa it isn't near as common as the Rem or Rigby.  Like another poster said if your ammo gets lost or something then you may be SOL.

I don't have a .416 Ruger, but I do have two .375 Rugers, an African and an Alaskan.  The Alaskan is threaded for my Rex MG7.  One thing to be aware of is that the factory Ruger threading is advertised as 5/8-28 on the .416's and 5/8-18 on the .375's.  Not sure why they chose the goofy thread pitches.  My Alaskan is one of the early ones that wasn't threaded from the factory, so I had my LGS thread it 5/8-24 and replace the front sight.  I just got the rifle back from the LGS on Friday, so I haven't shot it with the can yet.

A couple thoughts based on my experiences with the .375's; note that I haven't hunted dangerous game, so some of this is theoretical to me:

1.  I'd recommend good open sights on any rifle that will potentially be used for dangerous game.  You may never use them, but if you need them, you'll be very glad to have them.  Obviously you'll want QD rings on your scope in this case.  I can just see the factory sights over the can on my rifle.  NECG makes some really nice express sights.

2.  I'd strongly encourage you to use a hinged floorplate/BDL system instead of a DBM. It's one less thing to go wrong/get lost, and less shit hanging off your rifle to get snagged on brush.  It's also easier to top off.  I'm unaware of any detachable mag intended for the .416 Ruger, but .300 PRC mags may work.  I'd be a little wary of trying to cobble a .416 into a .300 PRC mag though if it involves any modification, you want absolute feeding reliability.  In either case, I'd recommend choosing an action with a wide open port and feed rails so that you can fall back to a BDL if you try a DBM and have issues.

3.  I wouldn't worry too much about CRF vs. push-feed.  CRF is the classic DG bolt rifle, but push-feeds will work too and be much more available/cheaper.  Personally I'd prefer CRF, but if I ever hunt DG in Africa I'd have an experienced PH with me for backup.  FWIW, I've never had a rifle choke because it was a push-feed.  The push-feeds also have the advantage that you can just throw a round in the port and close the bolt on it.  On some CRF designs you need to load it into the mag.

4.  My .375 African weighs 7.75 lbs bare, IIRC.  The Alaskan is a little heavier due to the laminated stock.  Not sure what either of them weigh ready to hunt.  Both of them are very shootable at those weights, but I would probably want them to be a bit heavier if they were .416's.

this is the reason I didn't buy a Ruger Alaskan in 375. It just irritated me that they went to the trouble of threading the barrel but in a pitch that's unusable.

I'll probably end up with one eventually anyway.

I strongly agree with this.  A couple years ago I was deer hunting with my Bergara B14 HMR and the mag release must have got caught on some brush because when I got to my blind the mag wasn't in the gun anymore, so I was relegated to using it as a single shot.  I especially would not want to risk this if hunting dangerous game.

Likely because they didn't expect you to hobble a purpose built short rifle by adding a foot to it in length.

Oh, so I should only want to add a foot to the 26" barrels?

"purpose built short rifles", especially with a threaded barrel, are often built for the purpose of keeping them reasonably long after adding a silencer.

It's a dangerous game rifle, in a dangerous game caliber, purpose built for hunting dangerous game in close quarters. Hence the short barrel and express sights.

They weren't ever concerned with mounting a suppressor on it.

375 can be dangerous game, but it can be "everything else" game rifle, too.

And "hence the short barrel and express sights", uh... the African in the same caliber has a longer barrel.  Almost all 375 h&h rifles have longer barrels. Those are used just as much as dangerous game rifles. So apparently being built for hunting dangerous game in close quarters doesn't necessarily require being short.


Anyway, my point is, if you're going to thread it, just thread it in a standard pitch. Then everyone can use it however they want. It's stupid to go to the trouble of threading the barrel and then do it in a useless pitch.

Your point is "stop liking things I don't like. I don't want to use a silencer on this rifle, so no one should want to." Not only is it a stupid point, it isn't even consistent with your explanation.

I was interested in putting a can on my 375, apparently others are too.  It cost a small fortune to get the front sight removed, get it threaded, a new sight installed, and bead blast it. A completely unnecessary expense had Ruger gone with a standard thread pitch. The oddball threading makes no sense to me, it would have been easier for them to go with 5/8-24 on everything.

FWIW, my barrel+suppressor are under 26” total. If I want it shorter and lighter, I’ll remove the can.

@WI-2021 thank you for the detailed and thoughtful response. Definitely gave me some food for thought.

1. I do plan to spend the extra coin on having the barrel dove tailed for sights even though I wonder if there would ever be time to take an optic off in the event of a simultaneous charge from game and optic failure even with a QD mount. Either way I pan to add them for good measure.

2. Point taken on the hinged floor plate. I do still want to go with detachable mags but you have prompted me to do my due diligence to be as sure as I can be mags will work prior to my build and to make sure ill have the option to fall back to a hinged floor plate if need be.

3. I leaning towards push feed the more I think about it for a few reasons, I have never had a problem with them either and I have owned and own quite a few including magnums. I was unaware that a Mauser type action had to be loaded from the magazine and by just dropping on in if you're empty so that makes me lean back to the push, I also have the prediction that a push feed may operate better with a detachable magazine but that is purely speculative. It also seems that a lot of the old school safari rifles that had big failures could be linked to older less stable propellants. Sticking with the push feed gives me a lot more options, it also gives me the option to look at some companies with a 60 degree bolt throw which I would prefer over the 90.

4. I am currently leaning pretty hard towards the Manners mcc-eh3

-- I will add a couple of non rotating QD sling cups to the left side of the stock to suite my carry preference and upgraded to the 1'' limbsaver recoil pad.

As for the barrel threading, I will definitely use a standard thread pitch on it and most likely be putting a griffin armament ez brake on it so I have to option to attach a suppressor If I choose to or leave it off.

Ammo is a little bit of a concern but from what I see the rounds can be found in Africa and Alaska although they will most likely be the two offerings from Hornady, not the barnes load from Buffalo Bore that I am planning to use but I think to get all the other wickets I am looking for ill have to take this risk.

I am in agreement here, if you're going to thread it make it a common pitch so the end user has the option.

These case dimensions are increasing my hope that detachable mags will work.

You're welcome.

1. Definitely look into express sights, they're great for close-up fast shooting.  A barrel band front and quarter rib rear would be a classic setup.

2. For the DBM, a mag release inside the trigger guard would help prevent dumping the mag accidentally.  I know I've seen them, but I'm a BDL guy, so I don't remember who offers a release inside the trigger guard.

3.  My first couple bolt guns were Brownings, so I got a bit spoiled with the 60 degree bolt lift.  When I built my customs I looked at the various 60 degree options, mainly Curtis and Terminus.  I haven't bought one of them yet for various reasons.  One of the main reasons is that they tend to have a bit smaller ports than I was looking for.  My first custom was a Defiance Rebel with the sheep port in .308.  It's wide open, but a 90 degree bolt, so it's a little limiting for scope clearance with low rings.  Great action otherwise though.  My second custom was a .300WM built on a Mesa Precision Summit.  That action has a 75 degree bolt lift.  It's not quite as smooth as the Defiance, but it's still pretty nice and was a lot cheaper.  The port is smaller than my Defiance, but still easy to top load.  With a Wyatt's extended box it will take rounds up to about 3.8" so it should work for .416 Rem Mag too, if one were so inclined.  You may want to consider the Mesa as well.

4. No experience with any of the Manners stocks yet, but that one looks like a good choice.  Make sure you have plenty of room between your hand and the sling swivel.  Getting bashed in the hand by a swivel or stud sucks.  That's one reason barrel band front sling studs exist.

Take a look at Africahunting.com.  Lots of very knowledgeable people over there.  I'm a member there as well, same username.  Spending too much time there will almost certainly make you feel poor though; a lot of those guys have incredible gun collections and hunting experiences.

Here's a link to a thread with some pics of my Mesa Summit in .300WM in the last post:  https://www.africahunting.com/threads/federal-terminal-ascent-for-plains-game.72493/page-2

The hang-up will be that the .416 Ruger doesn't have a belt, so it's a bit larger in diameter all the way to the shoulder than typical belted magnums.  Both the .300 PRC and .416 Ruger are based on the .375 Ruger case, hence my suggestion to look at PRC mags.  The main concern I'd have with PRC mags is that, if they have ribs up front, they might be too narrow for the .416 neck/bullet.  If the rounds fit in the mag they'll probably feed though.

I agree with all of that. I have some WM mags that I can check out when I get some rounds for the 416, I will have to get one that is specifically for a PRC. Hawkins precision makes a m5 bottom metal with the release inside the trigger guard but it uses their proprietary mags. I would like to find a DBM that has that style release and takes AI mags.

Just an update, here is where I am at:

~Terminus Kratos Action, they are only available with 20 & 40 moa rails so I will have to have that shaved down to 0 by a machinist.
~Manners MCS-EH3 stock (flush fit non rotational QD cups on the left front and rear as well as the right rear)
~Badger Ordnance Bottom metal unless I can find one that has a mag release inside the trigger guard and accepts AICS mags.
~Trigger tech trigger (the basic model)
~Lilja barrel because .416 bore with 1-14 twist is a standard option for them, with others it is special order

** the barrel will probably be a #4 contour sporter, I will add NECG express sights and have the barrel threaded for a griffin armament muzzle device, I will also have the barrel fluted (mainly for looks) so I will have to get some measurements so they stop where they should for the sights. **

I will have some ammo and mags soon so I can do some test fitting before I start making purchases for the rest.

ETA: im not close to picking a scope yet but definitely a 1x-something most likely in a QD mount.

Sounds like it's going to be a really nice rifle.

I believe that the Kratos rail is just screwed and pinned on, so you could just swap it out.  I've considered Terminus for a couple builds and emailed them with questions once or twice.  Joel Russo (the owner) is very responsive.  He'll probably point you in the right direction on scope mounts and any other questions you may have.  I just contacted them through their website.  You could also check with Talley, they have mounts for damn near everything, including most of the custom actions.

You'll be very happy with the Triggertech.  I have the Primary in my Mesa and the Special in my Defiance.  I can't tell the difference in feel, both are great.  The Special can be set a little lighter, but it's not really relevant for my purposes.

For a scope, take a look at the Trijicon Accupoint 1-6.  I have the 3-9 and 2.5-12.5 and really like them.  Their post reticle is great for fast closer range shooting.  I have the green post in my 3-9 and the mil-dot in the 2.5-12.5.  My .375 will probably get a 1-6 at some point.

I'm starting to talk out my ass a little bit here since my experience stops at .375, but I'd advise keeping the weight of the bare rifle around 9 lbs to keep the recoil manageable unless you're familiar with bigger bore rifles.  I also would be looking at scopes with about 4" of eye relief for the same reason.

Yes Joel is very responsive, it was actually his suggestion to have the smith machine the rail down when I have the barrel and chamber work done.

I agree on the trigger. I have shot the primary and the special, the primary is plenty light enough for me and super crisp.

1-6 or 1-8 is what I have been thinking but I have been leaning towards a 34mm tube for that huge window to look through even though the weight will go up some with that, I just need to find something with a simple enough reticle, most 1-8 34mm tube optics will have a reticle with drop compensation and other data that I don't really need or want on this rifle.

Can't really argue with the guy who designed the action.  I guess it must be a non-standard hole spacing.  Good luck with the scope search.  I really can't provide any input on the 34mm options.  I'm guessing the desire for a 34mm scope helped steer you toward the 60 degree actions.

Please let us know how the build goes!

Blaser R8 w/synthetic stock
26” 6.5 PRC, w/APA G3 LB Brake, QD Mount Leupold MARK 5HD 3.6-18X44 M5C3 FFP PR1-MIL
24” 300 PRC, w/APA G3 LB Brake, QD Mount Leupold MARK 5HD 3.6-18X44 M5C3 FFP PR1-MIL
20” 416 Ruger, w/APA G3 LB Brake, QD Mount Trijicon ACCUPOINT 1-4X24 TR24R

Get a custom case made and hunt anything on the planet.

I put the Ruger to good use in the outback of Oz. Ran flawlessly.
Dead buffalo in Australia.

I'm all for getting what you want but I think I'd just buy the Ruger Guide in 416 because it does almost everything you want. If you really wanted synthetic you could buy the Alaskan stock or just buy the Alaskan 375 and be done with it. I am curious why you want the AICS mags so bad.



I'm guessing an adapter could be done. As mentioned I don't think they were thinking about cans for these guns.