So I am posting here hoping for more exposure than some purist shotgun forum that I have like 12 posts on.

Occasionally I would like to make some lead shot, usually for weight/ballast/bags rather than shotshells.  I also want to experiment with some pistol shotshells.  $50-70 a bag is way too much to spend on this, if I could reliably find it, and there is no place within 200 miles of me that will admit to having reclaimed shot.   I don't think I want to make enough to justify $400 for a shotmaker, and $50 for a set of nozzles also seems excessive, but then so does spending $50+ on (and breaking) itty bitty drill bits to make your own.  But as recently as a few years ago those were your choices.  

Now, with the proliferation of 3D printers, there seems to be another choice.  The "standard" nozzle for my printer is .4mm and I can order a GOB of them for like almost no money.



I don't 3D print enough to go through 20 nozzles in my lifetime, so I can probably use a few of these for another purpose.  It seems like all I have to do is tap a couple of M6 holes and bob is my uncle, I can make some shot.  The pages I have read on the subject seem to think that the shot produced is between 4-5 times the size of the orifice, which for a .4mm hole means I am going to be making somewhere in the neighborhood of #9 shot.  Then all it seems like I have to do is rig up something under my bottom pour furnace to drip the shot onto a short plate and then into a bucket of something.  For the most part I don't think I am going to be very particular in my shot size, hardness or even consistancy, since 99.9% of it is never going to have to fly straight and I can always sort it if I need the biggs or smalls for something specific.

So, anyone see any holes (see what I did there?) in my plan?  Any suggestions?

My 3-D printer nozzles are getting nowhere near hot enough to handle liquid lead.  You're going to mount a nozzle in a frame and then drip liquid lead into it?

I reload shot shells and have a 3D printer; (you peaked my interest)

I don’t cast lead (which is a lot of info you seek) But I have read some on the subject.

The one thing I didn’t see mentioned in your thought process, what “container” will the nozzle screw into that can handle molten lead?

What are you going to improvise as your drop tower?  The minimum heigh I have seen is about three feet and that was dropping the lead into an liquid substance.

Personal opinion, just find some old timer selling his lead casting / shot maker and use that.  I “feel” diy tools for anything with hot lead is an accident waiting to happen.

Ok, my inspiration for this was the existing shotmakers available for sale.  Watching youtube videos, it seems like the setup is fairly straightforward, no excessive drop, no real contortions at all.  In fact the only struggle I have ever consistently heard on the home-made crowd is the difficulty in consistently drilling holes that small.  I eliminate that problem by using the nozzles.  And since Lead melts at almost 1000 degrees F less than brass, even if its cheap chineseum of some type, I should be OK on temperature.






All I really need to come up with is an aluminum or maybe cast iron "cup" of some type that is thick enough to tap the M6 holes in, and an inch or so of aluminum for the "drips" to roll into the coolant on.  I am going to use my bottom pour lead pot to melt in, and I imagine if i run it hotter than I would for casting, once I get it going, enough heat ought to stay in the "cup" to keep the drips going.  So, a hand propane torch to preheat and as long as I have enough "drip" quantity to keep up with the pour but not overflow the cup, I should be good.

I think the hardest part would be drilling and tapping the M6 holes themselves.

Just a 2 inch or 3 inch long ramp coated with graphite spray:






If your ramp is steel, you're gonna want to polish it to almost a mirror finish.  Then while it is still cool spray on a coat of the graphite spray pictured above.  Let that dry.  Spray on a second coat.

Somehow you are going to have keep the ramp hot...either with some other heating element or attached to your lead smelting pot.

I used an ammo can of water...yes plain ol' tap water (none of this B.S. of fabric softener, brake fluid, diesel fuel, or antifreeze).

The bottom edge of the ramp was about a quarter inch from the top of the water.

Water seeks its own level.

So the ammo can was put into position under the ramp and then water was added til water starts flowing over the brim.  Then I level the ammo can to the water.  Then as the lead shot displaced the water, I would just let the water drip to the floor and make its way to a drain.

With just one orifice dripping lead, it is going to be a while.

You may need something to vibrate or tap against the pot to get the lead to drip faster.


Let us know how those 3D printer tips work and how tapping your pot for those threads goes.

I never tried drilling holes that tiny into bolts.

I used Tweeco wire welding tips.

Please keep us updated on this project!