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Posted: 7/8/2020 1:06:29 AM EDT
I have some black tip 3006, the cases have various amounts of corrosion which is white/blue in color.

Are these safe?
Should I clean them up and if so what is the best way?Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 1:15:04 AM EDT
[#1]
pull the bullets and load into something good.
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 1:31:19 AM EDT
[#2]
Black tip = armor piercing!
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 2:06:53 AM EDT
[#3]
So the ammo in its current condition is no good and should be reloaded into fresh cases?
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 8:48:34 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
So the ammo in its current condition is no good and should be reloaded into fresh cases?
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From your pic most look fine to shoot.

Gently scrub them and see what the brass looks like.  Looks like surface oxidation from here.
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 11:47:49 AM EDT
[#5]
So if the surface oxidation comes off and the brass is smooth it’s good to go?
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 12:41:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Those are berdan primed (corrosive), right?  I wanted to make sure you knew, for the sake of your rifle.
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 12:44:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Only the tips
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 1:21:50 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:

Those are berdan primed (corrosive), right?  I wanted to make sure you knew, for the sake of your rifle.
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Depends on the headstamp yr. ,non-corrosive from 54 on I believe.
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 2:23:26 PM EDT
[#9]
ill have to dig out the rest of them and take a look but the ones I posted a picture of had a headstamp of LC 5. brief research says lake city 1955. these will be fired in my 1903A3. I will more than likely pull the bullets and use a new case, powder, and primer.
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 3:04:15 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:

Those are berdan primed (corrosive), right?  I wanted to make sure you knew, for the sake of your rifle.
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Just because they are berdan doesn't make them corrosive.
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 3:04:28 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
So if the surface oxidation comes off and the brass is smooth it's good to go?
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yep!

Link Posted: 7/8/2020 5:52:33 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
Just because they are berdan doesn't make them corrosive.
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And just because they are boxer primed ( which all US military ammo was) doesn’t make them non corrosive either.
With the exception of M1 carbine ammo, all US WWII small arms ammo was corrosive
Link Posted: 7/8/2020 6:53:09 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 7/9/2020 1:50:37 AM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
ill have to dig out the rest of them and take a look but the ones I posted a picture of had a headstamp of LC 5. brief research says lake city 1955. these will be fired in my 1903A3. I will more than likely pull the bullets and use a new case, powder, and primer.
View Quote


A headstamp of LC 5 indicates a production date of 1945, not 1955.  That is definitely corrosive primed.  

The chart at the link lists initial lots of noncorrosive primers for USGI ammo:

https://survivalblog.com/noncorrosive/
Link Posted: 7/9/2020 2:50:45 AM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:


A headstamp of LC 5 indicates a production date of 1945, not 1955.  That is definitely corrosive primed.  

The chart at the link lists initial lots of noncorrosive primers for USGI ammo:

https://survivalblog.com/noncorrosive/
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Quoted:
Quoted:
ill have to dig out the rest of them and take a look but the ones I posted a picture of had a headstamp of LC 5. brief research says lake city 1955. these will be fired in my 1903A3. I will more than likely pull the bullets and use a new case, powder, and primer.


A headstamp of LC 5 indicates a production date of 1945, not 1955.  That is definitely corrosive primed.  

The chart at the link lists initial lots of noncorrosive primers for USGI ammo:

https://survivalblog.com/noncorrosive/


Thank you for info
Link Posted: 7/9/2020 9:48:42 AM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:


Thank you for info
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
ill have to dig out the rest of them and take a look but the ones I posted a picture of had a headstamp of LC 5. brief research says lake city 1955. these will be fired in my 1903A3. I will more than likely pull the bullets and use a new case, powder, and primer.


A headstamp of LC 5 indicates a production date of 1945, not 1955.  That is definitely corrosive primed.  

The chart at the link lists initial lots of noncorrosive primers for USGI ammo:

https://survivalblog.com/noncorrosive/


Thank you for info
Please do not listen to that he is totally wrong.

It's 1955.  It's the 1954 bunting die with the 4 ground off.

It's non-corrosive all day long.
Link Posted: 7/9/2020 9:49:58 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:


A headstamp of LC 5 indicates a production date of 1945, not 1955.  That is definitely corrosive primed.  

The chart at the link lists initial lots of noncorrosive primers for USGI ammo:

https://survivalblog.com/noncorrosive/
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Quoted:
Quoted:
ill have to dig out the rest of them and take a look but the ones I posted a picture of had a headstamp of LC 5. brief research says lake city 1955. these will be fired in my 1903A3. I will more than likely pull the bullets and use a new case, powder, and primer.


A headstamp of LC 5 indicates a production date of 1945, not 1955.  That is definitely corrosive primed.  

The chart at the link lists initial lots of noncorrosive primers for USGI ammo:

https://survivalblog.com/noncorrosive/
No...

Not correct at all it's 1955... non-corrosive.

@Bog_Irish
Link Posted: 7/9/2020 7:45:18 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
ill have to dig out the rest of them and take a look but the ones I posted a picture of had a headstamp of LC 5. brief research says lake city 1955. these will be fired in my 1903A3. I will more than likely pull the bullets and use a new case, powder, and primer.
View Quote



If you are going to pull them down, there is nothing wrong with recovering the powder. Take the average charge of 10 rounds and load it back up.
Link Posted: 7/10/2020 6:44:59 PM EDT
[#19]
Pull them and load them in 300 WM.

Don’t waste them in neutered 30-06.

Link Posted: 7/14/2020 7:17:20 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
Please do not listen to that he is totally wrong.

It's 1955.  It's the 1954 bunting die with the 4 ground off.

It's non-corrosive all day long.
View Quote


I'm always interested in learning, and I'm not afraid to admit it when I'm mistaken.  Can you cite a source for your info?
Link Posted: 7/14/2020 8:40:15 PM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:


I'm always interested in learning, and I'm not afraid to admit it when I'm mistaken.  Can you cite a source for your info?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Please do not listen to that he is totally wrong.

It's 1955.  It's the 1954 bunting die with the 4 ground off.

It's non-corrosive all day long.


I'm always interested in learning, and I'm not afraid to admit it when I'm mistaken.  Can you cite a source for your info?
Look at the location of the "space" where they ground off the "4"

L C
5 x

indicates the "4" from 54 was removed.

Here is an example on the Twin Cities 55 ammo..


Link Posted: 7/14/2020 9:05:13 PM EDT
[#22]
Dont worry about corrosive ammo if you clean your guns, Hot soapy water  and eds red for the finish.
Link Posted: 7/14/2020 9:13:40 PM EDT
[#23]
I have some projectiles. Was thinking of selling, is that legal. I wanted to get some loaded for my 308, but was told it was illegal.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 8:24:34 AM EDT
[#24]
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Quoted:
Pull them and load them in 300 WM.
Don’t waste them in neutered 30-06.
View Quote



For 400-yd shots on elk wearing Kevlar, no doubt.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 8:50:07 AM EDT
[#25]
I've shot those black-tip projos.

Don't plan on hitting anything with them at 400 yards unless its as big as a barn, or you're running it belt-fed with tracers, so you can walk it into the beaten path.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 9:08:53 AM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:
Pull them and load them in 300 WM.

Don't waste them in neutered 30-06.

View Quote
@rabidus

Got any preferred recipes for loading these projectiles on 300 Win Mag?
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 1:45:20 PM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:
@rabidus

Got any preferred recipes for loading these projectiles on 300 Win Mag?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Pull them and load them in 300 WM.

Don't waste them in neutered 30-06.

@rabidus

Got any preferred recipes for loading these projectiles on 300 Win Mag?


No unfortunately I don’t.

But it’s a waste to just shoot them, especially in today’s shaky climate.

I shoot 338 LM but you could bet if I had 338 AP projectiles loaded in 338 Win Mag I’d pull them for 338 LM!

Forgot the weight, 160gr? Use 168gr load data.

I bet there are recipes online.eveey time someone posts about them and just shoots them out of their Garands I just cringe.

What a waste.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 4:41:32 PM EDT
[#28]
I doubt the accuracy is exceptional with these bullets and certainly not on par with something like a SMK or Berger offering so I will save my 300 wm barrel life on shooting good accurate bullets. I am undecided on what to do with the black tips. I’m in the exhausting process of pulling these down. I may trade them or sell them eventually.
Link Posted: 7/16/2020 6:31:25 PM EDT
[#29]
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Quoted:
I doubt the accuracy is exceptional with these bullets and certainly not on par with something like a SMK or Berger offering so I will save my 300 wm barrel life on shooting good accurate bullets. I am undecided on what to do with the black tips. I'm in the exhausting process of pulling these down. I may trade them or sell them eventually.
View Quote
Accuracy compared to SMK is horrible....but compared to M2 ball...it's very good.


Got to keep things in perspective.

Until M72 match came along M2 AP was issued for matches.
Link Posted: 11/1/2020 4:15:36 PM EDT
[#30]
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Quoted:


No unfortunately I don't.

But it's a waste to just shoot them, especially in today's shaky climate.

I shoot 338 LM but you could bet if I had 338 AP projectiles loaded in 338 Win Mag I'd pull them for 338 LM!

Forgot the weight, 160gr? Use 168gr load data.

I bet there are recipes online.eveey time someone posts about them and just shoots them out of their Garands I just cringe.

What a waste.
View Quote
69 gr of IMR4350 @3.36" will get you NIJ spec'd 2880 fps from 24" 300 WM. I've pushed them with IMR4350 and RL22 up to 3200-3300 fps. I use them for stress testing Level IV body armor.
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