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Link Posted: 1/19/2013 8:39:26 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Medic08:
Anyone try any 190gr SMK with lil gun for subs? I have a bunch of both laying around and wanted to put it to good use.


No, but I'm about to try it with 180 SPs; I asked this in p. 2:

"Q: Can you kindly suggest an optimal powder (from list below) for getting SUBSONIC 180 grain soft point pulls to function with my barrel? I am limited to the following powders suitable for 300 BLK:

Win 296 (same as Hodgdon H110)
Lil' Gun
5744 XMP

I also have these powders on hand: Vihta Vouri 3N38 and N-350, Hercules 2400. Again, I am only looking to shoot these subsonic & mostly suppressed.

The barrel is a 16" Wilson Combat that has the carbine gas system (I am not sure what size the port is).

Cases are both factory 300BLK and converted 5.56 cases (mostly LC). Frderal large rifle primers.

Can is an old AAC 762.

These pulled 180 grn SP bullets fed fairly well when I shot them as supersonic; I used the Win 296 (I think around 16 or 17 grains) and loaded them to the maximum OAL that would fit in my biggest magazine (an H&K). I did get one "nose dive" into the feed ramp.

Anyway, given my gas system, what powder would provide the best functioning?

I know the charge will need to be around 10 grains or so; anyone have a Wilson 16" like mine & can suggest a charge? Thanks! "



Link Posted: 1/19/2013 9:20:37 PM EDT
I loaded 5 190's with 8.5gr of lil gun and 2 of the 3 had supersonic crack. I will drop it to 8.2 and test. All 5 functioned perfect with BHO at the last shot. I am running a 16" with a pistol gas system.
Link Posted: 1/19/2013 10:11:35 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/20/2013 8:14:30 PM EDT
When do you anneal?  


Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy:


yea, if you are gonna form your own cases you just need to accept the fact there is gonna be a bit of work involved.  I do it like so:





 1:  tumble brass



 2:  cut to initial length with chop saw



 3:  debur the freshly cut case



 4:   lube case and run through the sizing die



 5:   accomplish any primer pocket work that needs to be done: ream, clean, uniform...whatever it needs



 6:  final case trim...now it's time for the precision work



 7:  debur and chamfer the case mouth



 8:  back into the tumble for final cleaning, this removes lube and whatever else that got picked up in the processes



 9:  inspect and remove fod from the flash holes...now is when I do any kind of sorting that I may want to do as well



10:  prime and load or store prepped cases for later.



this list is not all inclusive and does not indicate the amount of inspecting that I do as I complete the processes.  but it goes to show that you do have work to do.  I must admit that I do enjoy working with the 300 Black as I have found that it is a very rewarding round.  Goos results seem to be very easy to obtain...at least from what I have done so far...with the exception of bullets in the middle of the load range...I have no real use for those any way.






 
Link Posted: 1/21/2013 10:23:21 AM EDT
Originally Posted By coug91:
When do you anneal?  
Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
yea, if you are gonna form your own cases you just need to accept the fact there is gonna be a bit of work involved.  I do it like so:


 1:  tumble brass

 2:  cut to initial length with chop saw

 3:  debur the freshly cut case

 4:   lube case and run through the sizing die

 5:   accomplish any primer pocket work that needs to be done: ream, clean, uniform...whatever it needs

 6:  final case trim...now it's time for the precision work

 7:  debur and chamfer the case mouth

 8:  back into the tumble for final cleaning, this removes lube and whatever else that got picked up in the processes

 9:  inspect and remove fod from the flash holes...now is when I do any kind of sorting that I may want to do as well

10:  prime and load or store prepped cases for later.

this list is not all inclusive and does not indicate the amount of inspecting that I do as I complete the processes.  but it goes to show that you do have work to do.  I must admit that I do enjoy working with the 300 Black as I have found that it is a very rewarding round.  Goos results seem to be very easy to obtain...at least from what I have done so far...with the exception of bullets in the middle of the load range...I have no real use for those any way.


 


No, I do not anneal.  I don't have the proper equipment for it.  If I did anneal it would be between step 9 and 10 on my list.  These are my steps to form a 300 BLK from a 5.56 case.  My follow on reloading steps after this will be a bit different.  I've done it different ways but this particular method has yeilded my best results and seems chronologically correct in my scheme of doing things.

Link Posted: 1/22/2013 10:33:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/28/2016 1:13:52 AM EDT by dryflash3]


i don't have usgi mags, only pmags.  Using this pics from the first page, is the bump in the usgi mag in the same place as the guide rail in the pmag?  i chronoed my first reloads today and they are a little long.  They fed really slugishly and i noticed that the bullet was rubbing the "guide rail" inside the pmag, so there was a little binding.





So can I use the same concept of aligning the rail in the pmag to where the bullet measures 0.25"?  I dont have a usgi mag put side by side with a p mag to see if they are in the same place.





I am loading SMK 220gr. and case is trimmed to 1.358" converted from .223 brass using Noveske 8.3"





Thanks.






 
Link Posted: 1/22/2013 11:32:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2013 11:33:04 PM EDT by chevcamo]
Nismo542, my mags are locked up in a case behind way too many items to move right now, but I'm going to say yes they are in the general same location. What that feature is for (from my understanding) is to help pre-center the bullet to the chamber when being pushed forward, so it would make sense to keep it in the same location as the original magazine design.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now for a couple questions of my own, when I ask these let's ignore the fact that is hard to find things available right now, trust me I know.

Unless I'm blind, I haven't seen any real mention of it. What dies do y'all use? I've always used RCBS with my hunting calibers, but looking at all the options with this round. I may choose to resize .223 shells, so I'm looking at that option as well with my choice of dies.

Secondly, has anyone possibly loaded any 162 grain AP rounds? Specifically ones like shown below. If you have, can you give details on load data.

Link Posted: 1/22/2013 11:50:13 PM EDT
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Nismo542, my mags are locked up in a case behind way too many items to move right now, but I'm going to say yes they are in the general same location. What that feature is for (from my understanding) is to help pre-center the bullet to the chamber when being pushed forward, so it would make sense to keep it in the same location as the original magazine design.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now for a couple questions of my own, when I ask these let's ignore the fact that is hard to find things available right now, trust me I know.

Unless I'm blind, I haven't seen any real mention of it. What dies do y'all use? I've always used RCBS with my hunting calibers, but looking at all the options with this round. I may choose to resize .223 shells, so I'm looking at that option as well with my choice of dies.

Secondly, has anyone possibly loaded any 162 grain AP rounds? Specifically ones like shown below. If you have, can you give details on load data.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/bighammer_photos/IMAG4166.jpg


I use hornady dies.  They seem to work well for me.  Right now lots of dies are hard to find.

I have not loaded any of the AP rounds but my experience with the 168 gr match grade hps prooved to be a failure as the obtained velocity wasnt even enough to initiate expansion at 25 yds...I was running 17 grs H110 with pressure signs at that!

Link Posted: 1/23/2013 6:47:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/23/2013 9:01:38 PM EDT by Delbaeth]
Has anyone tried loading Berry's Plated 110gr or 123gr 7.62x39 (their nomenclature, not mine) as a subsonic load?



Eta: ...after running them through a .308 bullet sizing die.
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 8:09:26 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Delbaeth:
Has anyone tried loading Berry's Plated 110gr or 123gr 7.62x39 (their nomenclature, not mine) as a subsonic load?


7.63x39 uses a .311 diameter bullet, while 300 Blackout uses .308 diameter. I wouldn't think the barrel would be a big deal, but the dies or casings might not like it. But I haven't loaded any, so just an opinion.
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 9:44:19 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 9:45:52 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 10:17:15 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
I use hornady dies.  They seem to work well for me.  Right now lots of dies are hard to find.

I have not loaded any of the AP rounds but my experience with the 168 gr match grade hps prooved to be a failure as the obtained velocity wasnt even enough to initiate expansion at 25 yds...I was running 17 grs H110 with pressure signs at that!



Yea, I looked at Midway to see who all is making dies for the round and all but the crimpers were out of stock. Not that I'm really in a hurry for it, though.

Hmm, well that sucks. I have 25 put up and was thinking about loading them for the Blackout.
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 10:18:28 PM EDT
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Nismo542, my mags are locked up in a case behind way too many items to move right now, but I'm going to say yes they are in the general same location. What that feature is for (from my understanding) is to help pre-center the bullet to the chamber when being pushed forward, so it would make sense to keep it in the same location as the original magazine design.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now for a couple questions of my own, when I ask these let's ignore the fact that is hard to find things available right now, trust me I know.

Unless I'm blind, I haven't seen any real mention of it. What dies do y'all use? I've always used RCBS with my hunting calibers, but looking at all the options with this round. I may choose to resize .223 shells, so I'm looking at that option as well with my choice of dies.

Secondly, has anyone possibly loaded any 162 grain AP rounds? Specifically ones like shown below. If you have, can you give details on load data.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/bighammer_photos/IMAG4166.jpg



I am going to say it would be a waste of some good AP bullets. I don't think you could get them traveling fast enough to put them to their intended use. If it is just the fact of having a bullet to shoot sell them on the EE for the premium they sell for and buy others.  
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 10:20:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/23/2013 10:20:38 PM EDT by chevcamo]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:

Haven't tried any in 300 blk, but in other 30 calibers, I used 165 gr data. Began loading at the start load and worked up.  


Will do.
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 11:25:08 PM EDT
Do any of the reloading books (hornady, Speer, Lyman, etc) carry loading data for .300blk yet?
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 11:34:26 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Medic08:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Nismo542, my mags are locked up in a case behind way too many items to move right now, but I'm going to say yes they are in the general same location. What that feature is for (from my understanding) is to help pre-center the bullet to the chamber when being pushed forward, so it would make sense to keep it in the same location as the original magazine design.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now for a couple questions of my own, when I ask these let's ignore the fact that is hard to find things available right now, trust me I know.

Unless I'm blind, I haven't seen any real mention of it. What dies do y'all use? I've always used RCBS with my hunting calibers, but looking at all the options with this round. I may choose to resize .223 shells, so I'm looking at that option as well with my choice of dies.

Secondly, has anyone possibly loaded any 162 grain AP rounds? Specifically ones like shown below. If you have, can you give details on load data.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/bighammer_photos/IMAG4166.jpg



I am going to say it would be a waste of some good AP bullets. I don't think you could get them traveling fast enough to put them to their intended use. If it is just the fact of having a bullet to shoot sell them on the EE for the premium they sell for and buy others.  


this would most likely be the perfect response...save them for your 308 or '06...or trade-sell
Link Posted: 1/23/2013 11:44:41 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
Originally Posted By Medic08:
Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Nismo542, my mags are locked up in a case behind way too many items to move right now, but I'm going to say yes they are in the general same location. What that feature is for (from my understanding) is to help pre-center the bullet to the chamber when being pushed forward, so it would make sense to keep it in the same location as the original magazine design.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now for a couple questions of my own, when I ask these let's ignore the fact that is hard to find things available right now, trust me I know.

Unless I'm blind, I haven't seen any real mention of it. What dies do y'all use? I've always used RCBS with my hunting calibers, but looking at all the options with this round. I may choose to resize .223 shells, so I'm looking at that option as well with my choice of dies.

Secondly, has anyone possibly loaded any 162 grain AP rounds? Specifically ones like shown below. If you have, can you give details on load data.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/bighammer_photos/IMAG4166.jpg



I am going to say it would be a waste of some good AP bullets. I don't think you could get them traveling fast enough to put them to their intended use. If it is just the fact of having a bullet to shoot sell them on the EE for the premium they sell for and buy others.  


this would most likely be the perfect response...save them for your 308 or '06...or trade-sell


Well I had thought about loading them for... special occasions.. But they'll stay where they're at on my loading shelf until I get another .308. That is unless I could possibly find a load for the 300 that would put it to the intended use.
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 2:36:58 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 3:42:56 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dryflash3:

Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Do any of the reloading books (hornady, Speer, Lyman, etc) carry loading data for .300blk yet?

Hodgdon on line data at their site, also their last 2 yearly manuals. 2013 on sale now.

Hornady 9

Nosler 7

Sierra 5 has 300 Whisper loads, I worked up fom these loads with good results.

Then there is Google to find all of the 300 blk sites with loading data.

Also, page 1 in this thread has a data sheet posted.


I think the web forum "quarterbore" had a lot of Whisper loads on it.
Link Posted: 1/24/2013 4:01:08 PM EDT




I don't reload every round like this, I just wanted to show how I form the cases.  Now, I am loading .300 BO on my Dillon 550, using an AK powder drop die.
Link Posted: 1/26/2013 6:54:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/26/2013 7:01:26 PM EDT by lokifox]
Ok so I am running a 8.5" 1/8 Rainier Select barrel. The only loads I have fired are 220 gr. SMK over 11.5 gr. of IMR4198 as directed by the Hodgdon load chart. I am also using the Wolf QQQ-SR556 primers which as I understand it are pretty much identical to the CCI #41.

I seem to be getting some horizontal stringing and maybe a slight yaw of the bullet at 50 yards. Curious if you fellas think I should try different powder combinations or maybe step down to the 210 SMK to achieve better accuracy and stabilization? I really don't want to kill my suppressor with a baffle strike and had read that the shorter barrels in 1/8 twist may not like the full 220 gr. bullet.

I have Win 296, 4198, and Lil Gun on hand. I didn't build this thing to shoot supers although I will probably mess around with them for deer/plinking.


ETA - Upper constructed post Dec 2012 at normal prices..... Had to do some searching though let me tell you.....

Link Posted: 1/28/2013 5:17:30 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Medic08:
I loaded 5 190's with 8.5gr of lil gun and 2 of the 3 had supersonic crack. I will drop it to 8.2 and test. All 5 functioned perfect with BHO at the last shot. I am running a 16" with a pistol gas system.


EXACTLY what I was looking for!  

I just loaded some 180 grn SP flat base (not 190 grn) over 8.28 grains of Lilgun.  I also have the 16" barrel, but mine has the carbine gas system.  Hope they feed and function well.   This is the 1st adventure with 180 subs; last time I just loaded a few 220 SMK OTMs over W296 / H110 - but those seem to work for everyone.

The 180s (with your data for reference)  should be subsonic and thus really quiet.  Have to wait a few weeks to get out to the shooting range to try them though.
 

Link Posted: 1/28/2013 5:29:30 PM EDT
Lots of reload data here        www.ar15barrels.com      look at tech section.



http://ar15barrels.com/data/300-221data.pdf





....
Link Posted: 1/28/2013 8:37:41 PM EDT
Has anyone found reloading data for short barrels?
Link Posted: 1/28/2013 9:49:49 PM EDT
Originally Posted By lokifox:
Ok so I am running a 8.5" 1/8 Rainier Select barrel. The only loads I have fired are 220 gr. SMK over 11.5 gr. of IMR4198 as directed by the Hodgdon load chart. I am also using the Wolf QQQ-SR556 primers which as I understand it are pretty much identical to the CCI #41.

I seem to be getting some horizontal stringing and maybe a slight yaw of the bullet at 50 yards. Curious if you fellas think I should try different powder combinations or maybe step down to the 210 SMK to achieve better accuracy and stabilization? I really don't want to kill my suppressor with a baffle strike and had read that the shorter barrels in 1/8 twist may not like the full 220 gr. bullet.

I have Win 296, 4198, and Lil Gun on hand. I didn't build this thing to shoot supers although I will probably mess around with them for deer/plinking.


ETA - Upper constructed post Dec 2012 at normal prices..... Had to do some searching though let me tell you.....

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu206/lokifoxbt/E1E5C7B6-B1FA-479A-B2E7-D06ADDE60B23-10265-000005D186FFF148.jpg


I am really luvin that rifle dude!

Link Posted: 2/4/2013 6:01:58 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/4/2013 6:10:32 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Bump for the new guys.


appreciated and subscribed! thx!!

Link Posted: 2/4/2013 7:20:30 PM EDT
Originally Posted By CBR900:
Originally Posted By Medic08:
I loaded 5 190's with 8.5gr of lil gun and 2 of the 3 had supersonic crack. I will drop it to 8.2 and test. All 5 functioned perfect with BHO at the last shot. I am running a 16" with a pistol gas system.


EXACTLY what I was looking for!  

I just loaded some 180 grn SP flat base (not 190 grn) over 8.28 grains of Lilgun.  I also have the 16" barrel, but mine has the carbine gas system.  Hope they feed and function well.   This is the 1st adventure with 180 subs; last time I just loaded a few 220 SMK OTMs over W296 / H110 - but those seem to work for everyone.

The 180s (with your data for reference)  should be subsonic and thus really quiet.  Have to wait a few weeks to get out to the shooting range to try them though.
 



With a carbine length gas system I doubt you will get 180s to function subsonic.
Link Posted: 2/4/2013 8:10:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/4/2013 8:11:21 PM EDT by angus6]
anyone else having the jam/lock nut on the trim die and RT1200 get tighter with use ? threads aren't galling.
Grabbed trimmer and gave nut a bit of a jar and snap went  die at the windows  
Link Posted: 2/4/2013 11:06:50 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/5/2013 12:53:13 AM EDT
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Has anyone found reloading data for short barrels?


I'm also looking for short (~10") barrel data, particularly for subs. Maybe some of the longer barrels' data would "work", but I'm wanting something a little more optimized. I'm guessing just a tad faster powder than the longer barrels...?

(Not really looking for whisper or fireball data, as those typically weren't designed to cycle a gas system.)
Link Posted: 2/5/2013 2:32:34 PM EDT
Can you use round nose 30 carbine bullets(.308 dia) to fire form 300 blackout case? Captain Howdy's post about unfired coverted brass may not be as accurate had me thinking. I did some search and some had feeding issues, but if it's just to do the final forming, loading one at a time is no problem. Would hate to spend on some good rounds if they aren;t going to be accurate the first time aroung. Found some 110 grain armscor for about $12 per 100.
Link Posted: 2/5/2013 3:00:22 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/5/2013 3:08:51 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
My formed cases were fine on the first firing after forming.

But I annealed the cases and that made a difference for me.

My first outing with formed cases and not annealed was not pretty. (accuracy wise)


Good to know!

As far as case length after 1st firing, my factory cases and formed cases actually SHRUNK slightly.  The facotry cases arrived from Midway as 1.360" so that is what I trim everything to.
Link Posted: 2/5/2013 3:10:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2013 2:05:07 PM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 2/8/2013 3:00:51 PM EDT
In the 5th post of page one there is an AA load chart... It tells me that the italized numbers indicate a "compressed load." Does this mean that it has the potenial to hurt my weapon?

I was planning on working up some 147/150 FMJ hot loads with A1680. The help is always appreciated...
Link Posted: 2/8/2013 5:39:16 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Rich_V:
Originally Posted By CBR900:
Originally Posted By Medic08:
I loaded 5 190's with 8.5gr of lil gun and 2 of the 3 had supersonic crack. I will drop it to 8.2 and test. All 5 functioned perfect with BHO at the last shot. I am running a 16" with a pistol gas system.


EXACTLY what I was looking for!  

I just loaded some 180 grn SP flat base (not 190 grn) over 8.28 grains of Lilgun.  I also have the 16" barrel, but mine has the carbine gas system.  Hope they feed and function well.   This is the 1st adventure with 180 subs; last time I just loaded a few 220 SMK OTMs over W296 / H110 - but those seem to work for everyone.

The 180s (with your data for reference)  should be subsonic and thus really quiet.  Have to wait a few weeks to get out to the shooting range to try them though.
 



With a carbine length gas system I doubt you will get 180s to function subsonic.


Well thats just sad.     I guess when I get out to the range to try these subs in a few weeks, I'll add lots of oil to the bolt and carrier 1st. Maybe that will help.

Also, my barrel's a Wilson 16" with the CARBINE port - but I will be using a batfe registered AAC brand suppressor.  Having a legal supressor might give the gun a better chance of working - but we'll have to wait a few weeks.

Link Posted: 2/8/2013 10:39:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2013 2:05:44 PM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 2/9/2013 12:23:55 PM EDT
Roger that.. Thanks
Link Posted: 2/11/2013 6:50:53 PM EDT
Ok.... So I ran some 220's with 9 gr of Lil Gun and it shot really, really well.


4198 is not a good powder for short barrels and the heavy bullet.
Link Posted: 2/11/2013 7:36:24 PM EDT



Originally Posted By lokifox:


Ok.... So I ran some 220's with 9 gr of Lil Gun and it shot really, really well.





4198 is not a good powder for short barrels and the heavy bullet.


I'm casting some 230's with the Lee bullet mold.  Do you think I should just run it with 9.0 gr of Lil Gun to start with, or drop it down .1, .2, or so?  (Please be gentle with the n00b reloader...)



 
Link Posted: 2/12/2013 11:27:00 PM EDT
Since no one seems to have advice for those of us with pistols or SBRs, I broke down and ordered QuickLoad. That should help with a few of my projects. I'll try to remember to post findings.
Link Posted: 2/13/2013 7:19:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/13/2013 7:20:32 AM EDT by grywlf52]
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
Since no one seems to have advice for those of us with pistols or SBRs, I broke down and ordered QuickLoad. That should help with a few of my projects. I'll try to remember to post findings.


That'd be cool. I'm running a 10.5" barrel on mine. Thanks.  Need to get off my butt and load up some 175s with Trail Boss and find a good subsonic load with it.  Still waiting on my 1680 to come in and I have 9 lbs of TB I use in my .308 sub loads.

Link Posted: 2/13/2013 8:05:37 AM EDT
Originally Posted By rob99rt:

Originally Posted By lokifox:
Ok.... So I ran some 220's with 9 gr of Lil Gun and it shot really, really well.


4198 is not a good powder for short barrels and the heavy bullet.

I'm casting some 230's with the Lee bullet mold.  Do you think I should just run it with 9.0 gr of Lil Gun to start with, or drop it down .1, .2, or so?  (Please be gentle with the n00b reloader...)
 


I can't really say as I don't know anything about how casts affect pressures.

My guess would be follow load data for the 230 that Hodgdon has posted on their site.
Link Posted: 2/13/2013 9:48:53 AM EDT



Originally Posted By lokifox:



Originally Posted By rob99rt:



I'm casting some 230's with the Lee bullet mold.  Do you think I should just run it with 9.0 gr of Lil Gun to start with, or drop it down .1, .2, or so?  (Please be gentle with the n00b reloader...)

 




I can't really say as I don't know anything about how casts affect pressures.



My guess would be follow load data for the 230 that Hodgdon has posted on their site.


they have 8.7 of Lil Gun listed to go with the 230 grain Berger Tactical bullets.  Those bullets are 1.602" in length, and the 230 grain cast bullets are 1.363.  If I load them to an OAL of 2.26", then there won't be as much of the bullet in the case with the cast as there would be with the Berger bullets....  I guess I can start with 8.7 and go up from there if need be.  The 220 grain Sierra HPBT bullet I can't find the length of, but Hodgdon says to load them to 2.26" as well.  They say to load 9.0 grains of Lil Gun with it, though...  



I'll just play with it once I get my powder and see what will function correctly (cycle, bho on last round, etc.).  I will use a lighter buffer than the Spikes buffer I currently have setup in the SBR, though.



 
Link Posted: 2/13/2013 5:38:05 PM EDT
Originally Posted By rob99rt:

Originally Posted By lokifox:
Originally Posted By rob99rt:

I'm casting some 230's with the Lee bullet mold.  Do you think I should just run it with 9.0 gr of Lil Gun to start with, or drop it down .1, .2, or so?  (Please be gentle with the n00b reloader...)
 


I can't really say as I don't know anything about how casts affect pressures.

My guess would be follow load data for the 230 that Hodgdon has posted on their site.

they have 8.7 of Lil Gun listed to go with the 230 grain Berger Tactical bullets.  Those bullets are 1.602" in length, and the 230 grain cast bullets are 1.363.  If I load them to an OAL of 2.26", then there won't be as much of the bullet in the case with the cast as there would be with the Berger bullets....  I guess I can start with 8.7 and go up from there if need be.  The 220 grain Sierra HPBT bullet I can't find the length of, but Hodgdon says to load them to 2.26" as well.  They say to load 9.0 grains of Lil Gun with it, though...  

I'll just play with it once I get my powder and see what will function correctly (cycle, bho on last round, etc.).  I will use a lighter buffer than the Spikes buffer I currently have setup in the SBR, though.
 


Have you tried seating a couple dummy rounds at 2.26 to see if they will feed from a magazine? I don't know the Lee bullet profile, but I'm guessing you'll have to load them shorter than that.

Link Posted: 2/13/2013 7:25:38 PM EDT
Originally Posted By knight_dive:

Snip

Have you tried seating a couple dummy rounds at 2.26 to see if they will feed from a magazine? I don't know the Lee bullet profile, but I'm guessing you'll have to load them shorter than that.



I know that even with the 220 SMK they want to bind up on the sharp edges of the barrel extension now and then. The CS flat wire buffer spring all but eliminates the binding but you still get the little gouges in the bullet. If the lead bullets just stop in the grooves of the barrel extension I would recommend taking an India stone to the sharp edges and just knocking them down a SMALL amount...... As in just barely raidused instead of angular.

I don't know how much those little gouges affect accuracy within 100 or 150 yards with subs but it may be enough to warrant a closer look.
Link Posted: 2/13/2013 7:54:40 PM EDT
Originally Posted By lokifox:
Originally Posted By knight_dive:

Snip

Have you tried seating a couple dummy rounds at 2.26 to see if they will feed from a magazine? I don't know the Lee bullet profile, but I'm guessing you'll have to load them shorter than that.



I know that even with the 220 SMK they want to bind up on the sharp edges of the barrel extension now and then. The CS flat wire buffer spring all but eliminates the binding but you still get the little gouges in the bullet. If the lead bullets just stop in the grooves of the barrel extension I would recommend taking an India stone to the sharp edges and just knocking them down a SMALL amount...... As in just barely raidused instead of angular.

I don't know how much those little gouges affect accuracy within 100 or 150 yards with subs but it may be enough to warrant a closer look.


I hadn't even considered the feed ramps. I was only thinking about the ribs in the magazine, so there's something else to verify.

Link Posted: 2/14/2013 3:07:40 AM EDT
Quick question. Does anyone know the link to the guy that sells the little adapter block for the harbor freight cutoff saw for cutting down 5.56 shells to form for 300BLK?

I have this with Rocketman's adapter drawing, but was looking for the one where you push the brass through instead of clamping and unclamping.
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