I know he can't do it himself, might be considered advertising, but I can do it for him.

http://form1suppressor.boards.net/thread/4260/3-solvent-trap-kits

Nice, I have a feeling I'll be sending some money to Ecco at some point...

link no working. wants a password. can you talk a bit about what we would see?

Specifications:

3.0" long, 2.1 ounces

Tube: 1.000" OD x .928" ID gr. 9 CWSR titanium, 2.8" long

Rear cap: 7068-T6511 aluminum, 1/2-28 female thread

Front cap: 7068-T6511 aluminum, 15/16 or 24mm twelve point wrench or socket will engage scallops

Cups: Indexing type, 1x 50° 17-4 H900 stainless steel, 5x 60° 7068-T6511 aluminum

$160 shipped.

For anyone not familiar with 7068 aluminum, it's the best there is.  Below are respective tensile strengths & hardness of it and a couple other common alloys:

7068-T6511: 103,000 PSI UTS, 190 Brinell hardness

7075-T651: 83,000 PSI UTS, 150 Brinell hardness

6061-T651: 45,000 PSI UTS, 95 Brinell hardness

So this is for a micro 22 setup?

He's also said that he makes a 1x6 (or maybe 5.5) .22LR kit with I think 13 cups for a ridiculously good price. I'm sure it would look very similar to this one. One of those is on my short list for sure.

Why the aluminum cones?
I'd consider buying a 5" kit but not with al cones.
I wondering if he could do ss or ti?

Weight.  7068 Tennalum is stronger than many carbon and stainless alloys.  Aluminum's weakness is heat, but you'd be real hard pressed to get a can over 350° on a .22 LR anything, including machine guns.  I've beat the hell out of my Ocelot demos on my 10/22 postie, no wear after thousands of rounds at 1,300 RPM.

I certainly can do stainless, but the weight more than doubles, and cost is a little higher.

I don't do Ti baffles for a number of reasons.

Okay, I didn't know they were just for .22
I just sent you a message about a build on the form1 board about a 4.5" build.
Please disregard the titanium request and replace with ss.

Larger calibers hold way too much solvent for a trap this size!

A friend of mine had good luck turning his own 50 degree grade 5 ti cones based on your recommendations for carbide inserts over the HSS he was leaning towards. Parting off seemed to be the worst of it.  Are there any design/functional reasons you’d dissuade a Form 1 builder from using Ti cones?

Sparking, for one.

More importantly, mechanical properties.  6/4 Ti has a TYS of 120 KSI, while 17-4 H900 is 190 KSI.  Even tempered 6/4 (not easily found, not cheap) is 160 KSI.  So 17-4 H900 parts can be made thinner for the same strength, negating the weight difference.   Ti also has poor abrasion resistance, which becomes quickly apparent with high velocity rounds.  Lastly, Ti oxidizes above 900°, weakening and embrittling the material.    While it can take a little bit to get the tube that hot, the baffle tips will see that temperature fairly quickly.

Type II anodizing can improve the wear characteristics a bit, but it's not easily done, and it won't increase the strength or maximum temperature threshold.

Various species of stainless, nickel and cobalt alloys are the best choices for baffles.  17-4 is a good all-around that keeps cost down due to both material prices and machining characteristics.  For most people, it's stronger & tougher than they'll ever need in a silencer.  For those who do require more, there is, of course, inconel 718, Stellite, or the high strength & high temperature ASM stainless grade I sometimes use, crucible 422.

Man I've been thinking about a shorty .22  form 1.

Message Approved

@Sixtysixdeuce

How can I order one of the 3" ones? If you're doing a 5" one I might get one of each.

Can someone make a youtube video on how these are drilled? It looks more complicated than my quietbore 22.

Don’t think you’re allowed to do that on you tube anymore

You need a youtube video on how to drill a hole?
It's a circle w/ a center mark.
Fix it, centered, beneath your drill bit and go thru.
That's about all there is to it.

Theres plenty on there right now. I just don't get how to do this version.

I can do that...in the build post it looked like it was cross cut. A hole down the middle but the perpendicular as well. So the tip kind of resembled a "+"

That's a clip. Different operation. Several ways to produce.
A mill is preferred,  a Dremel will do. Some do it with hand files.

No offense,  but you need a little more time researching.  You'll only benefit from it, trust me. Plenty enough forums, posts, threads, etc, that Google will get you where you need to.