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Posted: 3/20/2013 4:42:21 PM EDT
[#1]
<Tron>Now that's a door!</Tron>
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Posted: 3/20/2013 4:56:07 PM EDT
[#2]
this thread is sweet and makes me jealous
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Posted: 3/22/2013 4:31:36 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 3/22/2013 4:37:32 PM EDT
[#4]
Great thread!
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Posted: 3/22/2013 4:57:42 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
The wait is finally over - I picked up my door today from the freight shippers. I'm happy with how Sturdy built the custom frame and they got the dimensions spot on. I've ordered some SS mounting bolts (8,200 lb shear strength) that I should have in the next day or two so I'm hoping to get it installed sometime this weekend or next. This sucker weighs in at just a bit over 560 pounds. The only thing SS bolts are good for is in the food industry and in corrosive environments. Other than that they are soft compared to GR8 steel. Also, in a work room you're gonna want some 4' high receptacles. |
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Posted: 3/22/2013 5:05:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Wow, that door looks awesome. I'd love to see a shot of the thickness of it, the jam/frame and locking bolts.
Also what kind of ventilation are we talking about in there? Are you going to build some wood gun racks? |
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Posted: 3/22/2013 6:59:00 PM EDT
[#7]
IN. Looking good OP. Can't wait to see it all come together.
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Posted: 3/28/2013 5:14:33 PM EDT
[#8]
I installed the door today by myself without any incidents or tragic accidents although moving this thing around was a pain in the ass. I will say to anyone who is thinking about doing this, it's not hard but you do need to be careful and plan all of your moves in advance. I made sure I had all the tools needed within arms reach because once you get started you are pretty much committed. I got the hinged side pushed in first, then I walked / pushed / hammered the other side into place. I'm not positive, but it seemed installing an in-swing door was harder than installing a regular door since it wanted to fall over every time I tried to open it and nobody was on the other side to catch it
 . I used several different sized hammers, crow bars and the back of a heavy ax with a block of wood to fine tune the placement of the door in the opening:  I also wanted this door straight and level so I used various levels (I liked these two since they are magnetic and hands free although I used other longer levels as well):  Bosch hammer drill with a 5/8" bit drilled into the concrete with no problems  Checking the door to make sure everything was level and plumb. This digital scale is accurate to 1/10 of a degree and it really helped in getting the door installed just right. Can't complain being within 2/10 of a degree.  Within a 1/10 of a degree and the door fits perfectly to the frame (door is not locked and is slightly ajar as I had to keep opening it to get everything aligned):  Best part was the bottom of the door frame:  Front of the installed door showing the in swing:  Back of the door showing the locking bolts:  Back of the door with the bolts locked after adjusting the strike plates:  Room is now fully secured:  The door opens with just a push of a finger and doesn't move where ever I stopped it within the full range of motion. I had to make a couple of minor adjusts so the bolts could close without rubbing but that's to be expected. Other than that, I had absolutely no problems with the door or the installation. Sturdy got the dimensions exactly right as the door fit into the opening perfectly - I didn't need to make any adjustments either to the rough opening or the door frame. I still need to fill in the gap around the door and finish the drywall around the door frame. Last picture, door closed and locked up:  |
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Posted: 3/28/2013 5:41:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Looks good! I'm envious.
Question though... is it just bolted in place with those 1/2" or 5/8" anchors? Any grout in the frame? Seems like it would be pretty simple to run a sawzall down the seam and take the door, frame and all, right out. Also, I hope the bolts are long enough to get into the concrete fill in the block wall. |
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Posted: 3/28/2013 5:49:05 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted: Looks good! I'm envious. Question though... is it just bolted in place with those 1/2" or 5/8" anchors? Any grout in the frame? Seems like it would be pretty simple to run a sawzall down the seam and take the door, frame and all, right out. Also, I hope the bolts are long enough to get into the concrete fill in the block wall. |
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Posted: 3/28/2013 5:58:02 PM EDT
[#11]
Just thought I'd try to be a little help. Second to the last photo... Left wall... Just an FYI, with drywall, it's never a good idea to have four corners come together. You should overlap the joints. No matter how good the taping and mudding are, you'll always get cracks.
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Posted: 3/28/2013 6:02:18 PM EDT
[#12]
I personally would build something in front of the door to hide it. Won't really stop anyone, but why advertise
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Posted: 3/28/2013 6:50:01 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: I personally would build something in front of the door to hide it. Won't really stop anyone, but why advertise That's in my plans after I finish the room - but I won't be posting any pictures of what I end up doing  |
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Posted: 3/28/2013 7:02:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I personally would build something in front of the door to hide it. Won't really stop anyone, but why advertise That's in my plans after I finish the room - but I won't be posting any pictures of what I end up doing Don't forget to kill the slaves after they carry the sarcophagus in. 
Seriously, nice job. |
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Posted: 3/31/2013 4:50:57 PM EDT
[#15]
subbed because I'm jealous...:)
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Posted: 3/31/2013 5:23:14 PM EDT
[#16]
Man that is amazing.... .. One day.
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Posted: 4/2/2013 9:18:46 AM EDT
[#17]
I came...
Seriously awesome project man |
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Posted: 4/2/2013 9:37:53 AM EDT
[#18]
For outlets consider a surface mount channel. We used Wiremold AL6000 series for data and power, but they make single channel in both steel and aluminum. Best part is that you can run a 240v 3 wire circuit to it and have both 120v and 240v outlets. Very easy to reconfigure too.
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Posted: 4/2/2013 4:26:31 PM EDT
[#19]
After getting the door installed, I've started working on the rest of the cabinets. A neighbor gave me a metal cabinet that was in structurally great shape but it had a lot of surface rust and the top was trashed. So I got out the sand blaster and blasted off the rust and old gray paint. Repainted it a metallic brown. I also built a space for the dehumidifier so I could finally get it out of my way. The entire bottom part of the cabinet I built is removable and slides out for easy access to the sump pump.
This has been a fun project because I keep changing my design based on getting things I hadn't planned on for cheap or free.
 Still need to build another cabinet on the left side and add the face frame. Total for this was one free metal cabinet and one 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" maple plywood.  |
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Posted: 4/3/2013 11:01:50 AM EDT
[#20]
Well done sir, well done
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Posted: 4/7/2013 6:03:59 AM EDT
[#21]
Looks great. Who did the sump and drainage work? Local company or national franchise? I need something like that done but some of the ones I've had bid it seem like scam artists.
Grove |
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Posted: 4/7/2013 6:28:17 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted: Looks great. Who did the sump and drainage work? Local company or national franchise? I need something like that done but some of the ones I've had bid it seem like scam artists. Grove Local company that was referred by a Realtor friend. I got to see some other jobs they did before I hired them and was impressed by the quality of their work. Best part was the owner of the company is also a gun collector who figured out quickly what I was building - so he made sure I got what I needed. The area I live in has had a serious amount of rain over the last few months and the room has no hint of moisture so far.
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Posted: 4/7/2013 1:50:43 PM EDT
[#23]
I haven't had much time to work on the room but I did manage to squeeze in a few hours today. Lot of painting and finishing still left to do, including the drawers in the metal cabinet. The face frames will be painted the same color as the metal cabinet.
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Posted: 4/8/2013 12:16:54 PM EDT
[#24]
Very nice work sir!
Can't wait to see it finished!
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Posted: 4/21/2013 6:19:51 PM EDT
[#25]
I'm finally getting down to some finish work as I'm done with all the drywall work and it's painted in a coat of primer. Today I finished the cabinets and shelves I built (the wife thinks I've gone crazy because I had to take apart the dehumidifier to replace the airflow sensor so I ended up painting it to the match cabinets - it's drying now
) : The top finished with a couple of coats of satin poly:  Also wrapped up all the drywall and trim around the safe door:  And finally I moved in a TV "stand" - my 20 year old Liberty safe which will be bolted down to the concrete floor once I finish painting. I installed the electrical outlet and cable so it would be at the right height above the safe to set a cable box and flat screen TV on:  |
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Posted: 4/21/2013 7:37:37 PM EDT
[#26]
Nice work.
Would look even better with a Beer Fridge on the right and reloading presses on the left. 
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Posted: 4/22/2013 7:39:04 PM EDT
[#27]
Aw man, looking great. Love seeing the photo updates. Nice work, keep er going!
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Posted: 4/26/2013 8:15:02 PM EDT
[#28]
Great thread, Posting to keep up with it.
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Posted: 4/26/2013 8:56:35 PM EDT
[#29]
Nice work.
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Posted: 4/28/2013 5:32:01 PM EDT
[#30]
Oh man.. I can see it now... After spending 6 hours of hard labor breaking into that vault room, the crook gets in only to find another safe!! That's hilarious!! |
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Posted: 4/29/2013 12:26:17 AM EDT
[#31]
This is neat! A saferoom and a safe all in one.
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Posted: 4/29/2013 3:53:45 PM EDT
[#32]
You should put another smaller safe inside your tv stand safe. ya know incase they find the safe room, break in, break into tv stand safe... That way your really good stuff is still protected.
Great work man. |
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Posted: 5/1/2013 8:38:14 AM EDT
[#33]
Maybe I missed it. But do you mind if I ask how much the door cost?
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Posted: 5/2/2013 3:21:31 AM EDT
[#34]
Just another guy without a basement that is envious.
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Posted: 5/2/2013 5:37:56 AM EDT
[#35]
Any particular reason you have the hinge on that side?
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Posted: 5/2/2013 7:45:10 AM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
Any particular reason you have the hinge on that side? I think its so some one cant block the door and trap you inside and if you are in there during a storm and the house comes down around you the door wont be blocked traping you inside. |
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Posted: 5/2/2013 11:05:27 AM EDT
[#37]
Quoted: Oh man.. I can see it now... After spending 6 hours of hard labor breaking into that vault room, the crook gets in only to find another safe!! That's hilarious!! Quoted: This is neat! A saferoom and a safe all in one. I may not be able to stop someone from breaking in, but I'm doing everything I can to really piss them off . The real question will be - is there anything in the safe, or is it empty and just a really big TV stand? |
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Posted: 5/2/2013 11:12:34 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted: Maybe I missed it. But do you mind if I ask how much the door cost? Since I ordered a custom size to fit my existing rough opening (41 3/4 x 84 3/4) the base price was $1,735. Sturdy handled the larger opening by keeping the door the standard size and increasing the size of the door frame. The in-swing door and panic button added another $300. The total cost with shipping was $2,283. Not cheap, but the door is very well built and I'm very satisfied with the overall quality. |
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Posted: 5/2/2013 11:30:55 AM EDT
[#39]
Quoted: Quoted: Any particular reason you have the hinge on that side? I think its so some one cant block the door and trap you inside and if you are in there during a storm and the house comes down around you the door wont be blocked traping you inside. Another reason is to be a FEMA P-320 compliant safe room. This will add some additional resale value if I ever sell the house - especially if I sell to someone who doesn't have a gun collection to protect. |
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Posted: 5/2/2013 12:51:39 PM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Any particular reason you have the hinge on that side? I think its so some one cant block the door and trap you inside and if you are in there during a storm and the house comes down around you the door wont be blocked traping you inside. Another reason is to be a FEMA P-320 compliant safe room. This will add some additional resale value if I ever sell the house - especially if I sell to someone who doesn't have a gun collection to protect. I think he was more asking why not have the hinges on the right? |
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Posted: 5/2/2013 5:13:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Any particular reason you have the hinge on that side? I think its so some one cant block the door and trap you inside and if you are in there during a storm and the house comes down around you the door wont be blocked traping you inside. Another reason is to be a FEMA P-320 compliant safe room. This will add some additional resale value if I ever sell the house - especially if I sell to someone who doesn't have a gun collection to protect. I think he was more asking why not have the hinges on the right? |
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Posted: 5/2/2013 10:38:37 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Any particular reason you have the hinge on that side? I think its so some one cant block the door and trap you inside and if you are in there during a storm and the house comes down around you the door wont be blocked traping you inside. Another reason is to be a FEMA P-320 compliant safe room. This will add some additional resale value if I ever sell the house - especially if I sell to someone who doesn't have a gun collection to protect. I think he was more asking why not have the hinges on the right? This is what I was after Lefties,,, THAT explains it. 
Considering all the work you did, moving the switch would have been no challenge. I was looking at the floor space you have available to walk around the door with the safe in the corner. Seems kind of tight. It's a tiny issue, but was curious. Still great work and thanks for showing. 
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Posted: 5/3/2013 7:19:36 PM EDT
[#43]
Looking good
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Posted: 5/3/2013 9:50:18 PM EDT
[#44]
Does Sturdy's panic function still require tools?
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Posted: 5/4/2013 4:20:48 PM EDT
[#45]
Quoted: Does Sturdy's panic function still require tools? Copied from Sturdy's website: This will allow you to lock yourself inside the vault with the push of a palm button, such as you would need for a panic room. Pulling the button unlocks. With the push button engaged, it is impossible to spin the dial from the outside, thus preventing anyone from locking you inside. If you did not engage the push button and someone was to lock you in by spinning the dial on the outside (which is a very purposeful act) it would require 3 minutes of work and a couple of basic tools to get out.
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Posted: 5/5/2013 2:58:32 PM EDT
[#46]
Spent some time today starting the installation of a suspended ceiling after finally getting the room painted. Working with metal beams covered in spray insulation is a bit different than installing a ceiling like this under normal joists so some things need to be done a little differently.
First since the insulation was so uneven, I couldn't just snap a chalk line to position the t-rail. Instead I found the center point of the room and ran a string the length of the room. I then used a plumb bob suspended from each beam to find the intersection of the line and marked the location on the beam.  After marking all of the beams, I broke out my 4" grinder and removed enough insulation so I could see metal:  To support the t-rail I drilled and tapped a hole in each beam so I could screw in a 1/4" eye bolt. The eye bolts will be the attachment point for the metal wires that will be used to support the t-rail.  The ceiling will have a 15" border around the entire room (I used the layout tools on Armstrong's website to calculate the border and materials list - it worked like a charm). I'll only need one t-rail, the rest will be 4' and 2' cross tees.  |
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Posted: 5/5/2013 3:29:38 PM EDT
[#47]
I am soooo jealous.
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Posted: 5/5/2013 4:01:43 PM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does Sturdy's panic function still require tools? Copied from Sturdy's website: This will allow you to lock yourself inside the vault with the push of a palm button, such as you would need for a panic room. Pulling the button unlocks. With the push button engaged, it is impossible to spin the dial from the outside, thus preventing anyone from locking you inside. If you did not engage the push button and someone was to lock you in by spinning the dial on the outside (which is a very purposeful act) it would require 3 minutes of work and a couple of basic tools to get out. Make sure you have the instructions and the basic tools in there. I don't buy that it's a purposeful act. For an adult, it is, but you get a couple kids running around, and they'll spin the thing without thinking about it. 
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Posted: 5/5/2013 4:48:41 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Does Sturdy's panic function still require tools? Copied from Sturdy's website: This will allow you to lock yourself inside the vault with the push of a palm button, such as you would need for a panic room. Pulling the button unlocks. With the push button engaged, it is impossible to spin the dial from the outside, thus preventing anyone from locking you inside. If you did not engage the push button and someone was to lock you in by spinning the dial on the outside (which is a very purposeful act) it would require 3 minutes of work and a couple of basic tools to get out. Make sure you have the instructions and the basic tools in there. I don't buy that it's a purposeful act. For an adult, it is, but you get a couple kids running around, and they'll spin the thing without thinking about it. I'm less worried about kids and more worried about the wife spinning it a few times while I'm in there.  I've stashed a few basic tools in one of the inner door supports.
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Posted: 5/5/2013 5:30:34 PM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does Sturdy's panic function still require tools? Copied from Sturdy's website: This will allow you to lock yourself inside the vault with the push of a palm button, such as you would need for a panic room. Pulling the button unlocks. With the push button engaged, it is impossible to spin the dial from the outside, thus preventing anyone from locking you inside. If you did not engage the push button and someone was to lock you in by spinning the dial on the outside (which is a very purposeful act) it would require 3 minutes of work and a couple of basic tools to get out. Make sure you have the instructions and the basic tools in there. I don't buy that it's a purposeful act. For an adult, it is, but you get a couple kids running around, and they'll spin the thing without thinking about it. I'm less worried about kids and more worried about the wife spinning it a few times while I'm in there. I've stashed a few basic tools in one of the inner door supports. I hadn't even thought about that.
I have too many 2-year olds running around here lately (none of them mine, but when my peeps get together, there are a bunch...), so I'm kid-paranoid at the moment. Last time I couldn't find my remote control, it was on top of a lampshade.  They can't reach it up there...
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