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Posted: 6/7/2018 3:46:48 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted: BTW, as you can see in my pictures, the rifle has a National Match rear sight base, so I think that is about 5-6 clicks more than the standard one until the rear sight peep bottoms out. So if I have a standard sight base, that is about 11-12 clicks for a 200 yard zero, which I heard is pretty standard. Because...... On two examples that I have, they are marked "NM" (stamped) on the windage knob itself (as viewed from the right side of the rifle). And on another example, "NM 2" is (paint-stamped) on the upper portion of the ear of the sight base (as viewed from the right side of the rifle). Of course, a hooded aperture is usually a give away. Though, not really a tell. Because, the hooded a aperture can be used with other standard sight parts.* Then, old NM rear sights were not all hooded. *Some reading about NM sights..... http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/108594-little-history-nm-sights.html That all being said......I'm glad that things have worked out for you. Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 6/7/2018 4:08:56 PM EDT
[#2]
A 6 o'clock hold will have a different click count vs. when using a center hold.
Then, ammo can vary. So, I wouldn't be so eager to file the frt sight or condemn the rifle unless/until I was certain about my ammo too. Then..... Of course, I'll assume that you were using the correct target for your 200 yd practice/sight in. "Canted" had me thinking a barrel clocking issue. Not shooting hi or low. A possible clocking issue can usually be determined by a simple parallel bar/rod test. Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 6/8/2018 1:15:15 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looking at your picture of the rear sight (Update #2).....I don't see it as being a NM sight. Sorry, I can't see/measure hole size (from the photo) and I don't see it stamped somewhere (.520 or .595) on the sight. Because...... On two examples that I have, they are marked "NM" (stamped) on the windage knob itself (as viewed from the right side of the rifle). And on another example, "NM 2" is (paint-stamped) on the upper portion of the ear of the sight base (as viewed from the right side of the rifle). Of course, a hooded aperture is usually a give away. Though, not really a tell. Because, the hooded a aperture can be used with other standard sight parts.* Then, old NM rear sights were not all hooded. *Some reading about NM sights..... http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/108594-little-history-nm-sights.html That all being said......I'm glad that things have worked out for you. Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 6/13/2018 9:32:35 AM EDT
[#4]
If anyone cares, I took my JRA M14 out about a month ago and had no issues. Took about 8 clicks up and three left to zero at 100yds. I use a center hold instead of the lollipop hold. Got ~4" with Malaysian 147gr surplus. No malfunctions or failures.
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Posted: 6/14/2018 3:47:19 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: BTW, as you can see in my pictures, the rifle has a National Match rear sight base, so I think that is about 5-6 clicks more than the standard one until the rear sight peep bottoms out. So if I have a standard sight base, that is about 11-12 clicks for a 200 yard zero, which I heard is pretty standard. I've been reading a lot about the 'proper' amount of clicks to zero M14/M1A and M1 Garand and there's plenty of people who mentions 8-13 clicks for a 200 yard zero. I've also watched plenty of Youtube videos of Fulton Armory M14 and Springfield M1A rifles being shot at 25-300 yards, where it seems like their rifles have about 10-18 clicks of adjustment. This is compared to my own rifle, and how many clicks to look like how the Youtube guys have their rear peep sight adjusted. So after all, as I mentioned already, having 17 clicks to zero definitely doesn't seem 'perfect' to me, but it is serviceable... not to mention, I would HATE to do another return merchandise with Classic Firearms.  FWIW: A "NM" base would be marked on the right hand side as "NM" or "NM/2A" and would have the finer thread to match up with a "NM" windage knob which would be so marked as well. The aperture is or can be a separate deal either hooded or not, and then standard or not. But it's not the base which limits the bottoming out, it's the end of the aperture track and whether it's beveled or not. You'd have to remove it to see if it's beveled................ But after all that.............. how does it shoot? That is the issue............. And if it shoots well............. be done with it............. You didn't indicate that you were shooting long range with it (600yds +) and so limiting the clicks of elevation is for the most part unnecessary............. But Yes..... if it bothers you that much........file the front sight. |
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