We will be getting those in real soon for both HK and Cetme, kind of dropped the ball on a couple items.

We have been tied up on a couple other projects like trying to get inventory back to pre Christmas levels with one of our most important guys out (our primary stock maker).

Forgive me for being dumb on hk rifles:

What happened to the cetme conversion that was delayed blowback with a threaded barrel and was $600 and change for everything?

If this kit requires an hk parts kit, doesn't that put the total cost in excess of $1k?  ($400 for hk kit, $200 conversion kit, $200 receiver, plus $$$ for welding and magazines).

CETME parts kits are currently available for about $150, from APEX and SARCO.

It's my understanding (might be wrong) that you would just have to swap the handguard and cocking tube for HK parts, to make the CETME kit work with the conversion kit that is currently offered.  Add a receiver, 922r compliance parts, and the CETME modified locking shoulder when they are available, and you have all the parts.

I think this is one of those projects that is more for fun, than because it saves money. If you aren't building it yourself, you'd be better served buying a purpose built 45acp semi.

Cetme kit $150
Rhineland 45acp kit $200
Flat $70
Weldment kit $50
922r Muzzle device $25
Thompson mag $25
Sear/hammer/trigger $25

$545

If you’re willing to bend a flat, modifying the Cetme cocking tube and hand guard aren’t an issue.

Should shoot nicer than the HiPoint in .45 ACP, which is straight blowback.  Don't think you can put together a .45 ACP CMMG Guard for $550.  So likely the least expensive delayed blowback .45 ACP PCC available.

What's involved in shortening the parts?  
I'm dumb, but I assume buying a receiver would be cheaper than buying a stamping and jig to bend it?
I found a few YouTube videos of welding the barrel in, in the ones I found they were using a jig to align parts while welding.  Is some sort of jig required for welding?

Unless you have to pay someone to assemble it. Last time I looked into having an HK-style built from a kit, it was close to $1k for welding and cerakote.
I definitely think this is a cool kit and may get one if I can find someone to look over my shoulder while building it. I've always thought the HK/Cetme was neat.

The jigs are a bit expensive, if you buy them to do one HK build.  However, the same jigs can be used for a few different HK models, making them more affordable if you want to do more than one build.

The extractor needs improvement. It breaks at the point of the spring cutout.  I broke two.   It wouldn't take much work to make a better design.

Not sure on the reasoning or how on shortening the Cetme parts. My hand guards and gas tubes appear to be the same length as G3. I’m not sure what is different about the barrel that makes it necessary.

The jigs could be sold after use or considered an investment into the hk platform.

Came in today.
Mocked up in a PTR

Attached File

Looks good!

Correct me if I'm wrong...

If a CETME or G3 parts kit is used to build a pistol, the requirement for 922r compliance parts does not apply.

A build using the HK51 barrel profile would result in a barrel around 8.5" long and would require a handguard and cocking tube parts for the HK51, but would otherwise use CETME or G3 parts.  ETA: Looks like it would also require a bolt carrier for the HK51.

A build using the G3K barrel profile would result in a barrel around 12.5" long and would require a handguard and cocking tube parts for the G3K, but would otherwise use CETME or G3 parts.

The main rule to follow in mixing parts between the CETME and G3, is don't try to mix and match the bolt parts.  The rest may need a little tweaking, but can safely be mixed in a build.

Is the above correct?

Does not matter the kits are O/S.

Sorry all, we have not posted any instructions or details yet. We will try to get that this weekend.

One of the things to watch out for are the Thompson mags. We have noted that there were several different manufactures over the years and there are several different dimensions not including the semi auto tweaked mags with oval mag catch holes.

Make sure you get one with round mag catch holes and you may still need to do 2 tweaks to the mags. Will get that online asap.

Any idea when you'll have kits back in stock?

We should have 5 more of the standard kits in stock late this week.

The ones that use HK33 length handguards are about 15 days out and that will be the same barrel that will work with the SD kit. Still working on that SD kit. The front sight base combo is a real pain.

Hi all, we are trying to get things back on track after our recent loss of one of our own and a critical member. A lot more difficult than I thought it would be.

We are putting a couple kits together but these will have barrels with an oversize OD on the barrel were the triple frame goes. Turns out the guy who helps design and build these miss-understood something. I should have these kits ready by Thrusday of this week as all the small things came in today.

We also have plenty more kits on the way with revised barrels and still working on the SD kits etc.

I also am trying to get pics up online with info on the magazines and the adapter installation.

Sorry to hear about your loss.

Thanks for the update

Shows 4 in stock if anyone needed one

Thanks for the update. I was finally able to get one of the kits.

Can you explain the ramifications of the oversize OD and what that will mean for assembling?

I have flats and kits for two of my friends who picked up the first version of the kit a few months ago so if anyone is interested, we could do a short write up or vid of the kit assembly when we do the build party.

@ Rhinelandarms, let me know if you are looking for any specific feedback on the process to include in your build write up.

@ Rhinelandarms, let me know if you are looking for any specific feedback on the process to include in your build write up.

We are looking for any feedback you can give us.

We are now on our second gen barrels with correct diameter for the triple frame. Also, going to really try to get the instructions finished an online this weekend.

Also have Cetme and HK locks in process finally, for those that want to use the delay system.

I purchased the first gen kit. I’m using an Apex CETME kit, with a RTG G3 flat. It’s a title 2 SBR. I cut the cocking tube right in front of the cocking handle stop pin. I reshaped the end of the tube to mate back up with the triple frame. The barrel was cut down to 10 or so inches, I turned the outside down to fit the triple frame and rethreaded the end. I’m using a G3 Navy trigger housing and trigger group. I also went with the G3-A3 sliding stock.

I’m happy with the look and I can’t wait to run it, but I can not get it to feed. Drawing from the left or right of the mag, the nose of the round hits the mouth of the chamber (the nose of the round is dented), starts to angle into the chamber, but the rim of the cartridge won’t ride up the bolt face and allow the round to square up with the chamber and continue into battery. It just jams with the round cocked in the trunnion. If I remove the mag and pull the cocking handle again, it will go into battery. The trunnion has been “ramped” as noted in the instructions.

The problem seems to be the mag/bolt interface. If I angle the mag enough for the bullet to not hit the chamber, the bolt hits the feed lips and bends them down trapping the remaining rounds. I’ve tried securing the mag adaptor with an empty (follower and spring removed) mag in place to ensure the bolt will just skim the mag, but I end up right back jamming rounds. I’ve tried polishing the lower portion of the bolt, and tried modifying other bolt faces to encourage proper feeding. It fires and extracts fine.

The real kicker is that it cycles snap caps perfectly. Just not live rounds. I’ve tried multiple brands of ammo but nothing feeds.

I really want this to work, but I’m completely at a loss.

I cut the receiver open and removed the trunnion this weekend just to confirm that I hadn’t welded it in out of alignment. It crossed my mind to do just that before reassembling it. I was really hoping for some kind of feedback from Rhineland. If theirs runs reliably, there’s just something stupid I’m missing. The bolt head takes up so much of the trunnion there isn’t a whole lot of contouring that can be done beyond what they’ve already recommended. I’ve got some more Thompson mags coming, if I set the adapter so the bolt doesn’t drag the feed lips, it’ll hopefully run. I tweaked the mags I have and got it to cycle 3 or 4 rounds between jams. So I’m leaning in the direction of out of spec mags at the moment.

There's 2 heights of Thompson mags, right?  27/M1 mags and 28 mags.  Semi auto mags (1928) have the mag catch hole @ a different height than the full auto mags (1920/1927/M1/M1A1).  So depending on which mags you have, and which you've ordered....

Well, I don’t know. The only difference I knew of was the mag catch hole. The auto mags have a round hole and the SA an oval one. The kit adapter uses the round hole auto ones.

Ah, maybe I'm mistaken about the height then.

To what size is the muzzle threaded?

5/8-24 RH

A TSMG mag with the hole modified to fit a semi (1927A1) will sit .100" lower in the gun

@RhinelandArms

I have a C308 receiver that the barrel was fubar and I pressed the barrel out with intentions on re-barreling it.

Would i be able to press your barrel into my trunion thats already welded into the receiver?

If so, I will order one of your kits

Yes you can press out the .308 barrel and press in the Rhineland one. The difficult part (depending on what tools you have access to) is removing material from the rear bottom edge of the trunnion. There is a raised edge there that needs to be clearanced as it catches the rim of the .45 case as it exits the mag.

As a side note, the Rhineland barrel presses in from the front of the trunnion and does not require bolt-gap spacing like most roller delayed barrels. The barrel has a milled shoulder that seats against the front of the trunnion.