I have a Bear super kodiak recurve. Instead of shooting off the shelf of the bow it has a arrow rest on it. Should I be using the shelf or is this ok to use? Attached File


Also, I need to buy arrows for this bow. I have been reading that I need to pick the right spine which involves shooting and cutting the arrows until it straightens out. I can buy arrow kits with different spines so I was thinking about getting one of those. would that be a good idea? This is written on the bow, other than the amo 60, I don't know what the rest means

Attached File

Forty-five pound draw weight.

It's fine to use an arrow rest like the bow now has. If you want to shoot off the shelf you can, but the rests don't last very long and you must use feathered arrows.

I found this flipper rest works best for me on a recurve bow.  Super T300

I shoot a 4" feather with only a slight helical twist on carbon arrows and the arrow corrects quickly off the bow.

That's a nice bow you have there.

Those flippers will work for awhile but there are much better options available.  As mentioned you can shoot off the shelf too but you'll need to put something on it first.

Instead of experimenting to find the right arrow I'd recommend going to your local bow shop and have them show you what arrows you need.  Then they can build your arrows however you want them.  Doing it yourself requires a bit of experience and fair bit of knowledge plus the proper equipment.  The bow shop can show you all the options for arrow type (aluminum, wood, carbon), fletching (plastic vs feather, length, helical vs straight), proper arrow length (need to measure your draw length), choosing your tip weights as well the right spine.

The rest you have is OK for now.  What is your draw length?  You need to know this to pick the right shafts.  On my 45# recurve I draw it to 27", so that means I'm not really pulling the whole 45# (that is a standard measured at a 28" draw length).  So my best arrows for that bow ended up being a Gold Tip Hunter 500 spine cut to 30" with 100 grain brass inserts and 100 grain points with 4" feathers for fletching.  Bare shafts group right in with the fletched ones.  Also hits like a hammer with killer penetration.  

If you draw MORE than 28" you will be pulling MORE than 45#.  
Without knowing your draw length I would say (if you can buy single shafts) to try a few 400 and a few 500 spine.  Tuning a trad bow is all about cutting down the shafts until you hit the perfect stiffness for YOU and YOUR BOW.  Very individualized.  Try to find a good shop to help you.  It really is fun once you get into it.  Good Luck!

Oh and PS DO NOT try to cut carbon arrows without a proper tool (arrow saw).  You risk gruesome damage to your hand/arm if you do.  There is a very tedious method I use with a sharp bastard file but it is very slow.  A decent saw is first on my "next purchase" list.

ETA Oh wow I see this thread is five years old.
Did OP ever get it right?

@Mudzilla