Whenever you have the option for a free-float handguard, go for it. There is absolutely no benefit to a non-free-float over a free-float with regards to accuracy no matter what the rifle is meant for.

Somehow I don't know how anyone ever hit anything before free-floated barrels...just sayin'

In OP's case the FF handguard was a good improvement.  The muzzle device probably wasn't.

I have a heavy barreled 16" middy with a standard hand guard. I have no problem ringing a 6" steel at 250 yards with a 3.5-10 power scope with my non precision hand loads. Most of the time I run an Eotech and have no problem hitting a human silhouette steel at 200 yards. If you don't need precision or rail estate, a freefloat hand guard is not necessary.

not being necessary and not accomplishing the goal of affording more accuracy are two different things.

I would agree to what SHWELL is saying on this subject, other guys are providing similar advice. Better to leave this upper as is and seek out a nice tight performing barrel like Larue, Ballistic Advtanage, WOA, etc and build the upper with free float to your liking and specifications. Learning to refine your riflemen skills on a rack grade gun is not a deal breaker by any means at all as Marines do it, Soldiers do it and cilvilians as well. Alternatively the existing upper can be sold off as is to help with the cost for the new build or mated with other lower and stored as handy truck gun, carbine course gun and plinker. My hunch is that you will free float that barrel and still be pursuing tighter groups. Save the duckets and build to specifications of a higher performing barrel. Thats a decent little carbine gun as is for the budget price point.

https://youtu.be/pJL-IscH_jo

Nope. It will not improve the setup you have. A trigger is what you seek to improve your group you have there.  AR's aren't extremely accurate.

The thing that is going to screw your groups is letting the barrel heat up the slightest bit. I had one precision rifle with a Leupold 4-12 and AR gold trigger, it was decent with accuracy, but with 5 or more rounds the accuracy would open up to one foot groups. So it didn't justify having the scope on that AR for the added weight and lack of accuracy, so I put it on a bolt action.

The AR got a Aimpoint Pro which have been happy with.

Here is a very good article test which might help you process your decision on free float.
http://www.thenewrifleman.com/is-free-floating-an-ar15-barrel-worth-it/

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It's helped mine with accuracy, gun doesn't have issues with bipods affecting point of aim. When I had the RAS, I had to have the bipod close the receiver to keep on target.... Went from a KAC ras to a BCM QRF. So far so good.

Nice setup! You running BCM 1/7 gov profile barrel?
Like the ACOG?
My youngest got this build for Christmas but doesn’t like running irons.

So far the yotes, ground hogs, and crows don't care for it. Its a pure franken build......
-WW A2 profile barrel 1:7- I originally planned to dump it for a White Oak barrel, but its impressed me since I floated it, piddling with reloads.
-BCM Upper
-BCM BCG
-White Oak Armament A2 stock and hardware
-PSA lower
-PSA LPK
-BCM PNT trigger
-BCM QRF Rail
-Matech Rear sight
-TA01 Acog- Love it so far
-Specter gear 3 pt sling with magpul QD

Comes in at around 9.5-10lbs unloaded. Same as my bolt 223

Nice assembled battle axe! She's BOSS with the ACOG!
Have you tracked your group improvements since free floating the barrel?
What load work up has performed best in the WW barrel?

Does the ACOG show Front Site in lower 1/3 of optic display (on lower power)?

I ran a Primary Arms 1-6 ACSS on an A4 for a while and at 1x the front site was visible. was not a deterrent to close shooting work in the least.

Sorry for being late but to answer your questions.
- I really never tried to work a load up for the gun, just shot ball for fun and random self defense rounds for hunting. The acog really isn't uch of a target shooting scope, just has a nice crisp reticle and wide view. Acog is fixed 4x so the front sight disapperars. Still piddling with loads. Will post when I find something special.

A free float is never a wrong answer.  See real world testing here. Read the entire thread.

I use a Centurion C4 on my carbine with a Colt SOCOM barrel. Worth the FF just ditch the delta ring and spring washer.

Why? It's a suppressor mount. Different purpose.

I like improved triggers in my ARs.  To me, the trigger is more important than any sort of FF handguard.  I own both FSB / Non-FF guns and LPGB / FF guns. The barrel makes more of a difference than the handguard.  I've owned identical guns that would print very different groups (shooting side x side).

I zeroed my 11.5" AR pistol today.  It has a standard A2 FSB, and factory "milspec" trigger.  This is my 50 yard post zero group.  The optic is an Aimpoint T-2.  I was shooting off the bench using an improvised rest...



I have 16" rifles with free-floated handguards and LaRue MBT triggers that won't shoot this well.  The pistol and rifle uppers are made by the same company.

I like Centurion C4 rails (if I want a 1913 style handguard).  Otherwise, Fortis makes REALLY lightweight Keymod and MLOK that use standard barrel nuts.  If you have a shaved FSB or LPGB you can install without removing anything.

I have a pretty unpopular answer to this, but whether to free-float or not really depends on how the rifle will be used. I posted a thread a few years ago saying I saw little/no value in modding an existing AR to free float if you were going to use it with open sights in a semi-combat type environment. In other words, if you're not using a scope and the rifle isn't designed for sniper type shooting, free float will make zero difference given the extreme conditions the rifle is designed for.

If, on the other hand, you expect to shoot in a controlled environment with a bipod, bag rest or something like that, by all means free float the barrel. The difference will be remarkable.

I have a number of ARs (all purchased for a SHTF environment) that fall into two categories:
1) Combat rifle. These are all open sight dissipator style ARs. In the hot and heavy combat environment, the enhanced accuracy of a FF barrel would be a complete waste. They are rugged and durable. Accuracy is secondary to ensuring they are reliable in a sub-optimal environment.
2) Precision rifle. These are all set up with match grade barrels, nice glass, quality bipods, good stocks, FF barrels and back up irons. These would be for controlled situations such as a sniper providing protection. For these, accuracy is paramount and they'd likely be used in a situation where you could actually leverage the enhanced accuracy.

I follow the same thinking for ammo. I reload quality rounds for the precision rifles, I use milspec off the shelf ammo for the combat rifles. I also have different mags for each. 30 round mags for the combat rifles, 20 round for the precision.

If you're building a new rifle, regardless of planned use, why not free float? The difference in price is negligible and you have to buy a handguard regardless. Just make sure you're getting one that's rugged if it's going on a rifle that will see active shooting environments.

Came here to say this for those averse to tools and assembly issues.  DD Omega is free float, retains the original delta ring, and all you need is a screwdriver and 5 minutes.   The 7' version is for a carbine gas block, the 9" version is for mid-length.

I have a longer modular rail on my precision rifle, but my general purpose carbine with A2 FSB and QD mounted red dot to swap with a mid-powered QD scope (both return to zero design) runs the Omega.  It also is the same weight as the factory plastic handguards!