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Posted: 8/15/2017 2:44:50 PM EDT
I've heard that people don't seem to like it because it dries out quickly, but isn't that what it's supposed to do? I thought the oil was just a carrier and then it dried and left a coating of teflon on the surface of the metal that acted as a lube.
Just curious if any of you still use it on Ar's or handguns. |
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My local Tractor Supply had the big spray cans of the stuff on sale last fall for I think $2.99, needless to say I bought all of it at that price. It's not as good as CLP but it does the job and at the price I got it for I'll use it.
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I use it for cleaning mostly. Works well to blow the crud out if tight spaces. Then I apply an oil like Slip to friction points.
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I use it mostly with my .22 rifles. i keep a squirt bottle of it in my range bag.
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Poor lube and poor protectant.
There is much better stuff available. |
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It's a good spray cleaner that can help prevent rust. Better then WD-40.
As a lubricant it's just too thin and runs off quickly. |
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I only use it to put some oil/lube back on the bare metal surfaces after spraying something down with carb or brake cleaner. Then I go over what I can reach/make contact with again with an oily rag to get some real oil on the surfaces. Can't get that rag back in every crack/crevice so that's what the spray rem-oil does for me (at least that's the idea.)
I don't use it for a stand alone lube. |
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Doesn't lube well at all. Most experiments on steel plates I have seen, it was one of the worst protectants too.
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So something weird, I think they changed their formula recently. Just bought a can of Rem Oil and instead of saying it has Teflon, now it says "with 2x more lubricant than previous Rem Oil formula" on the can.
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I run a soaked patch of rem oil down the bore after i am finished up with copper removers and solvents.
Then i run a bunch of dry patches through until dry. The theory is to have some oil protection bonded in pores of the bore, yet still have a dry bore that is ready to fire. The rem oil i have is very, very light and IMO works perfect for this application. Shooting your rifle with oil residue in your barrel can hydraulically ruin the barrel. I am sure there are about 100 other types of oil out there that will do just as good of a job? This stuff was never designed to use as a lubricant for your BCG. Its a light lubricant for special applications, cleaner and a protectant. |
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I've used it a lot on my ARs. No unusual wear and I used it as a stand alone lube. Works as a cleaner even on some corrosive ammo. Nothing special but nothing evil either.
I am a big fan of Remington Dry Lube. I sprayed some on a BCG in 2004 and after 3500+ rounds, it's still slick as snot. |
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Quoted:
So something weird, I think they changed their formula recently. Just bought a can of Rem Oil and instead of saying it has Teflon, now it says "with 2x more lubricant than previous Rem Oil formula" on the can. View Quote |
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I've been using aerosol can of Rem oil for as long as I can remeber on all my weapons from AR to over under shotguns and all in between. I have yet to have any issues with it. Imo it's great as a rust preventative and I've also used on my BCG and never had a stopage or jam....
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Terrible lubricant for autos. It's really only good for cleaning and light lube/protect on hunting firearms for cold weather (like a remington 700 trigger).
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Rem Oil is half mineral spirits, half oil, and a touch of teflon. Terrible (no) rust protection, too light to prevent wear, and disappears quickly.
I have no clue why anyone would even consider this product when there are dozens of other products available that do a much better job. |
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Rem Oil aerosol is a pretty good ablative for suppressors.
Easy to apply and no rust/corrosion worries like water based alternatives. |
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Quoted:
I thought the oil was just a carrier and then it dried and left a coating of teflon on the surface of the metal that acted as a lube. View Quote No. It does have a light oil. It does have a volatile. It does have little flakes of teflon. But, it is not like a paint or varnsh where the carrier is designed to evenly distribute the pigment; what is left on the surface are randomly distributed flakes of teflon, not a "coating". The teflon is supposed to work with the light oil and act like marbles gliding the mating surfaces together with low friction. It works until the light oil migrates and the teflon obeys the law of gravity and falls off. If you want to coat something with teflon, it has to be heated to the point where the teflon becomes pliable enough for the flakes to flow together and form an uniform film across the surface it was applied to. |
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I use RemOil for lock mechanisms because they are largely enclosed so the teflon flakes don't have anywhere to go once the volatile carrier evaporates.
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My colleague uses it and seems to be okay with it. I've used Hoppes in the past but found a new product I like much better called Shooter's Gold made by SconixOutdoors. Different than others than are non-toxic, and it doesn't run from where I applied it.
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I use it to wipe down the exterior of my firearms; that is about it.
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Rem oil is very light, doesn't lube well, and has failed as a rust preventative in well-designed tests.
Because I have it on hand and want to use most of it up (I have large spray can plus a bottle of it), I apply it as a follow-up to remove all traces of solvent or bore cleaner. I have also found that because it penetrates well due it's low viscosity, it can be useful as a lightweight cleaner when used by itself. So I'll likely always have a small bottle on hand, but nothing more. If you want a good, simple oil, hunt up a bottle of Nyoil, and perhaps another one of an oil designed for lubicating old clocks. Either one is better than Rem oil, and many other products, hands down. |
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So what do you guys suggest for the best possible lube? I use ALG go-juice and it seems decent, a little runny
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Quoted:
So what do you guys suggest for the best possible lube? I use ALG go-juice and it seems decent, a little runny View Quote It's engineered to lubricate from the southern heat to Klondike cold, all the while providing anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, & friction modifiers. |
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My local Tractor Supply had the big spray cans of the stuff on sale last fall for I think $2.99, needless to say I bought all of it at that price. It's not as good as CLP but it does the job and at the price I got it for I'll use it. View Quote |
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There's a new version of remember oil out , has any one tried it?
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I quit using Rem Oil years ago when I discovered that it made the action of my pump guns get stiff in extreme cold. Don't know how is did that with as thin as it is but it did. I still have a can or two laying around but only use it to oil some of the moving parts on my reloader.
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Quoted:
Synthetic automotive engine oil. Seriously. It's engineered to lubricate from the southern heat to Klondike cold, all the while providing anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, & friction modifiers. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So what do you guys suggest for the best possible lube? I use ALG go-juice and it seems decent, a little runny It's engineered to lubricate from the southern heat to Klondike cold, all the while providing anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, & friction modifiers. Detergent additives help with cleaning - keeps carbon in suspension rather that depositing on the surface. One quart will last years. Extremely cost-effective. |
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I've heard that people don't seem to like it because it dries out quickly, but isn't that what it's supposed to do? I thought the oil was just a carrier and then it dried and left a coating of teflon on the surface of the metal that acted as a lube. View Quote But it doesn't work that way. The PTFE doesn't disperse evenly across the surface and form a coating; it clumps. Just curious if any of you still use it on Ar's or handguns. View Quote |
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I'd use WD-40 over Remoil - it is the absolute worst gun product on the market. In fact there are many non-gun products that sell for much less and are as good or better than the expensive gun store brands.
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I use Rem Oil for lubricating my bicycle's chain. That's all I will use it for. Ha!
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I have tried it, seems too thin, once folks told me about mobile one that is what I use, I have quarts of it for my motorcycle 20w50 and I saved about a 1/4 quart, been using it for a long time. the quart was about 4 dollars. most "gun" lubes are that much for one small bottle.
but I have glocks for the most part and you could use bacon grease and still be ok. my dan wesson I use mobile one. |
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RemOil, just say no.
Synthetic motor oil. I use full synthetic diesel detergent formula Shell Rotella T6. Our direct infringement actions are a high carbon environment running dirty with particulates like the inside of a turbo direct injection diesel engine. The detergents help keep carbon from sticking and hold it in suspension. The synthetic oil has superior lubrication from Sahara desert to Arctic tundra. A quart is about $6 or so and will last a lifetime. |
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RemOil, just say no. Synthetic motor oil. I use full synthetic diesel detergent formula Shell Rotella T6. Our direct infringement actions are a high carbon environment running dirty with particulates like the inside of a turbo direct injection diesel engine. The detergents help keep carbon from sticking and hold it in suspension. The synthetic oil has superior lubrication from Sahara desert to Arctic tundra. A quart is about $6 or so and will last a lifetime. View Quote |
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For the price, Rem Oil is good to have in a range bag just in case you need some quick cleaning\lube.
As another poster said, it also works well as a final step in barrel cleaning before dry patching. Its not CLP, but its good in a pinch. |
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Quoted: Considering T6 is a 5W40 oil, have you noticed any problems with it thickening up if you run the rifle hot? View Quote |
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I use no other. Been using since about 1992 maybe a few years before that but I can remember buying a can that year.
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I haven’t used it in a lot of years, I had bad luck with it separating into runny stuff and clumpy gummy stuff. It left drip marks on a couple guns I had in dry storage. I had a hard time trusting it for anything after that.
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It works okay for a light cleaning job, but do not rely upon it for lubrication or protection.
I pulled out a couple of guns that had been stored for about 8 years and had used Remoil on them before putting them away. I read about problems and had to check my guns. Upon disassembly, both were found to have a sticky film wherever Remoil had been used for lubrication. Luckily, both were stored in a dry environment so there was no rust or corrosion and a good cleaning brought them back to life. I now use Tetra products for lubrication and storage. It is safe on polymer so can be used on every firearm that I own. |
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Quoted:
I've heard that people don't seem to like it because it dries out quickly, but isn't that what it's supposed to do? I thought the oil was just a carrier and then it dried and left a coating of teflon on the surface of the metal that acted as a lube. Just curious if any of you still use it on Ar's or handguns. View Quote Personally I like Rem Oil for all my toys. Unfortunately they don't offer it in the squirt bottles anymore and so I've moved on to using Breakfree. Impala |
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I use it just for general cleaning of inside the receiver and bolt parts. It's a terrible lube. Lube afterwards. Doesn't eat up my hands like gunscrubber.
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its not bad for trigger mechanisms......also not bad for running a patch down the bore.......and its great for cleaning fingerprints off polished guns.
also good to run on the mating surface of scope rings to help prevent corrosion. i generally dont run it in my ARs......that being said, i have done it....and never noticed any difference. frankly....ive never noticed a change in performance regarding ANY oil i use in my guns |
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