I have recently assembled two AR’s from completed uppers and lowers.  I think I am now up for building a rifle from scratch, using individual parts.  

I’ve gotten a stripped lower and a lower parts kit.  I purchased some of the tools I needed for assembly. I’ve watched a number of build videos on Youtube.  I’ve also gotten Rob Reaser’s “AR-15 Rifle Builders Manual” illustrated book.

I’ve a few questions for the collective.

Rob Reiser’s book recommends using LocTite blue in a few areas, the buffer tube, the handgrip screw, etc.  Is that really a thing?  I’ve not seen any other folks recommend LocTite.

Recommendations for a good lubricant to be applied during assembly?  What are your goto lubricants?

Lastly, what do you all recommend for cleaners during assembly?  Specifically to clean off any residue from manufacturing. Should I be using something that is alcohol based?

I'll probably get hammered for this so I want to qualify ahead of time that I AM NOT recommending this. It is the reality of my present living situation.

I've built 2 ARs from scratch with no vise, no torque wrench, holding stuff firm between my legs and other "un-advantageous" improvised assembly techniques. I did have to buy an AR specific armorer's wrench and I did have other tools that are obviously needed.

Both guns function great. Nothing has ever come loose (no staking or loc-tite) and they are both plenty accurate.

As I said, my point is not to convince anybody to do it this way. I had no choice. My point is, if I can get them together and running like this, some folks may be overthinking some of the details in what is absolutely required to build a perfectly good AR.

I say yet again. I am not endorsing my bubba-fied method, but it CAN be done.

Opinions will vary. I dont use loctite (i do use rockset on muzzle devices if they are a suppressor mount). I stake my castle nut and I just use some grease from napa on the threads for the barrel nut. Is this the right way? Some people will probably agree and some will say it's going to burst into flames. It's worked out fine for me though.

Edit: since people brought up other situations, I do use it on optics mounts, handguard screws, light mounts etc. Not on the actual gun though.

The only thing I've ever put loctite on is optics screws.  M-Pro 7 is my referred lube, but a dab of grease can come in handy at times.

Not sure what you might encounter on a built that wouldn't clean up with whatever you use to clean guns, but mineral spirits and/or acetone can be helpful.

Aero shell 33ms on buffer tube threads, torque to spec and stake. Aero shell 33ms on barrel nut, season threads and final torque to spec. I’ve only ever use loctite on handguard screws, optics mount/screws and gas block screws. Never used it on a pistol grip screw or buffer tube.

As for cleaners and lube, I’m a fan of slip2000 products

Aeroshell 33MS on barrel nut, season & torque.

Aeroshell 33MS on buffer tube, season, torque, & stake.

Loctite PURPLE not blue on grip screw.  But honestly, use Vibratite VC-3 instead.  However either is fine and appropriate, not blue.  

Use either of those on optic screws as well.  Remember there’s a difference between a wet torque value and a dry torque value.  The values on barrel nuts and buffer tubes are wet (greased).  The value on optic screws are dry, so if using Loctite, keep that in mind.

Do not use loctite on the buffer tube.

Hot-Lock on gas block set screws, do not buy from Amazon though, too many returned bottles get shipped out from Amazon.

On upper receiver threads and buffer extension tube threads,  I use molykote paste and torq to spec. However, any 2-5% moly grease will be perfectly fine,  Aeroshell is just a brand of moly grease,  so don’t loose your shit if you don’t happen have it.  I stake my castle nuts and use purple loctite on all BUIS and optic mounts unless a thread lock is already on fasteners from factory.   During assembly,  all springs and detents get a thin coat of grease.  For regular maintenance,  I use thin grease on the BCG;  back side of bolt lugs, cam pin,  gas rings , bolt tail, carrier slides, bottom of carrier.  Extractor and ejector springs get a drop of oil from time to time.

Most grip screws come with a Keps external toothed ("star") lockwasher.  If so equipped, no thread locker is required.  For the receiver extension...also no...  Tighten/loosen 3 times & torque to spec (40 or 45ft lbs. IIRC) and stake in two places with the punch linked below.  Barrel nut...tighten/ loosen 3 times & torque 35-80ft lbs.  I've used shims on numerous occasions as >50ft lbs. or so is pointless.  Use the prescribed Areoshell 33 or moly-lithium grease.

Mayhew 5/32x4.5 Punch

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the feedback.

I have been using Marine Wheel Bearing Grease on Barrel Threads, etc. It seems to work just fine.
I pretty much do not use Loc Tite on my AR Builds. I have rebuilt a couple of my AR's two or three times so far. Not worn out rebuilds, just upgrade rebuilds.
I have built or rebuilt all of my AR15's. Read a lot, and You Tube is your friend.  Some posters are all about Boutique Builds. I am about the most bang for my bucks on parts. The two big parts are the Barrel and Trigger.

I have been building AR's for over 40 years. Parts quality is way better now days. Years ago an accu wedge was needed because the upper and lower fit was normally sloppy. The last several I have built, even with Uppers and Lowers that were not the same brand were a great fit. We are in the Golden Age of quality AR Parts. Enjoy your journey building a nice AR.

Bob R

the tools will cost you more than any one part you might screw up.  buy a couple sets of small parts "oops" kits.  or just buy another lpk.

even lowers are cheap these days.  every stripped upper I've bought has cost more than the lowers.  spend the money on the barrel - you're going to have to really work hard to damage it during assembly.

practice makes perfect.  it's fun.

use parts you won't mind replacing for your first assembly.  mine turned out fine, still shooting it.

I use Vibra-Tite VC3 on moat everything. But Castle nut & barrel extension get Aeroshell 33 & CN get staked. Gas block I use either Permatex Orange or Loctite 246 which is blue med strength but can handle 450°. The muzzel device is different depending on who you talk to but I've used just AeroShell 33 (no issues), Loctite 246 (450°) or Loctite 2422 (650°) both are blue med strength but high temp, I've also used Rocksett & VibraTite Hot Lock but unless it's suppressed or has a blast device being twisted off I don't use these 2 that much as long as you have the correct torque.

I'm a big fan of loctite, and I typically use red. It's still removeable, but not on accident! I use it on the grip screw, and have on the buffer tube before, but now stake that instead.

Same here. I do use red loctite on gas block screws.

A properly torqued & staked receiver extension does not need thread locker.  Nor does a simple grip screw (especially a high temp variant!).  The spec keps lockwasher will bite into the plastic grip & the screw WILL stay solid.

Fact

Thread locker on the receiver extension? That book sounds stupid. There are plenty of useful videos on YouTube.