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Triggered [Formerly Partisan] Talk (Page 37 of 40)
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Originally Posted By ODA_564: An Atrius G-Lever. It does release the hammer in semi and FRT mode with out an upper in a function check. And it runs like a scalded ape (as does the X-PRT 90 in my PS90 now). The Atrius doesn't do anything vis-a-vis the trigger assembly (except the safety does it's thing in 'safe') until the upper is installed. Obviously in FRT mode the lever pushes forward when it's fired. It's a lever on the safety - dirt simple. The Disruptor is a far more complicated design. Originally Posted By ODA_564: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What is your other AR FRT? A lever type like the ARC-Fire, Atrius, MARC, or Hoffman Super Safety also needs the lever to be pushed forward, by the exact same mechanism that pushes the Disruptor's safety trip forward. The Atrius doesn't do anything vis-a-vis the trigger assembly (except the safety does it's thing in 'safe') until the upper is installed. Obviously in FRT mode the lever pushes forward when it's fired. It's a lever on the safety - dirt simple. The Disruptor is a far more complicated design. It really isn't. Both the Disruptor and your Atrius require the actuating member to be pressed forward in order to allow the trigger to be pulled. To demonstrate this, take your Atrius equipped lower and try to pull the trigger while the G Lever is positioned back. Respectfully, I don't think you fully understand what's actually going on in either trigger mechanism. It's not a design flaw, it's just how the mechanism works. |
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Didn't say it was a design flaw. I said the Disruptor is far more complicated. I have been shooting for a while. I understand the G-Lever. I understand the Disruptor requires a fully assembled AR with a M16 profile BCG cocked to release an OOB safety to release the hammer in semi (or FRT) and you can't function check it without an upper. |
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Originally Posted By ODA_564: Didn't say it was a design flaw. I said the Disruptor is far more complicated. Originally Posted By ODA_564: I'm quite sure that when you actually shoot your Disruptor, it will run just as much like a scalded ape as your G Lever. Its level of superficial complication is not really relevant. |
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Originally Posted By ODA_564: Didn't say it was a design flaw. I said the Disruptor is far more complicated. I have been shooting for a while. I understand the G-Lever. I understand the Disruptor requires a fully assembled AR with a M16 profile BCG cocked to release an OOB safety to release the hammer in semi (or FRT) and you can't function check it without an upper. Just push the OOB sear forward with your non-firing thumb, and manipulate the hammer with your non-firing hand. 
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Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Just push the OOB sear forward with your non-firing thumb, and manipulate the hammer with your non-firing hand. Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Originally Posted By ODA_564: Didn't say it was a design flaw. I said the Disruptor is far more complicated. I have been shooting for a while. I understand the G-Lever. I understand the Disruptor requires a fully assembled AR with a M16 profile BCG cocked to release an OOB safety to release the hammer in semi (or FRT) and you can't function check it without an upper. Just push the OOB sear forward with your non-firing thumb, and manipulate the hammer with your non-firing hand. I noticed with the LAT that if the trigger is forward you can push the OOB lever forward and it will stay forward. It makes a click. I dont recall if that is the same for the Disruptor. |
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@oda_564 Tip- when you do place your upper on it may not close fully allowing the rear take down on to be seated. Couple of tricks: Hold upper and lower together and pull charging handle (if it allows it). This will seat everything and you can push in the takedown pin. If that doesn’t work press the OOB safety and pull trigger while allowing the hammer to gently fall with your thumb. Now close it and everything goes together like normal. It’s just a pain . All my cartridge frts I have to lower hammer and then close them up. |
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| For those that have the LAT, how are they working out? How is the pull on position 2? Is the trip spring on the LAT as stiff as it is on the Disruptor? Any light strike issues with them? I'm doing another couple lowers this weekend so I am debating which kind of triggers they will wind up with. Thanks in advance for any info. |
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Just a quick range report here, finally got around to taking out my disruptor to the range I got back in Janurary. The selector sucked so I put in a Datum milspec which is perfect. Upper is a 14.5 pin/welded FN with an H2 buffer. Only ran 4 mags through it but it functioned perfect and much fun was had by all.  |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: For those that have the LAT, how are they working out? How is the pull on position 2? Is the trip spring on the LAT as stiff as it is on the Disruptor? Any light strike issues with them? I'm doing another couple lowers this weekend so I am debating which kind of triggers they will wind up with. Thanks in advance for any info. Mine is still chugging along. It's my understanding that they are using proper weight hammer springs now, so light strikes should be a thing of the past. The trip is a little more difficult to get to fit to an upper than either a Disruptor or Rare Breed. My usual tricks of using a knife to press it forward, and dropping the hammer first didn't work, nor does pulling the charging handle back while closing, so I have to kind of "back" the upper onto the lower. Get it to fit from back to front, sort of at a downward/rearward angle, while fiddling with the charging handle, and then snapping the takedown pins in after it's flush. |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: For those that have the LAT, how are they working out? How is the pull on position 2? Is the trip spring on the LAT as stiff as it is on the Disruptor? Any light strike issues with them? I'm doing another couple lowers this weekend so I am debating which kind of triggers they will wind up with. Thanks in advance for any info. Originally Posted By fordkicksass: For those that have the LAT, how are they working out? How is the pull on position 2? Is the trip spring on the LAT as stiff as it is on the Disruptor? Any light strike issues with them? I'm doing another couple lowers this weekend so I am debating which kind of triggers they will wind up with. Thanks in advance for any info. Let me try to answer your questions: Position two, as in semi?  By trip spring, do you mean out of battery sear spring? Or hammer spring? Let me give my input on both: -The hammer spring is the same one as is currently shipping with the Disruptor. It is stronger than our shiny silver original spring. -The out of battery sear spring is exactly the same as the Disruptor's. It's a tiny torsion spring. Your buffer spring should easily be able to overcome it and push your bolt into battery. If it doesn't-there's something wrong. Please contact me. I have some pretty significant doubts that the out of battery sear spring could ever stop a bolt going into battery. Light strikes are mostly caused by improper buffer selection, not the hammer spring. I have had a very small number of reports of *actual, true, verified* light strikes compared to the number of triggers that we have shipped. If you have light strikes in semi, yeah, that's a hammer spring problem. A bad batch of wire, a bad temper, something that got pressed past it's elastic deformation limit. If you're having light strikes in the enhanced position, we have a buffer notice on our website: Solving the “enhanced position only fires once” issue: For the most part, this is a buffer issue and is caused by bolt bounce at the end of the bolt carrier group’s forward motion. To solve this, we recommend an aluminum bodied H3 buffer with 3 moving tungsten weights inside for optimum performance. During our testing protocol, we used LBE, Geissele, and Noveske buffers, as well as many others, during our testing protocol. We have also more recently tested the Tromix RRT/Auto H3 buffers with excellent results. Success has been demonstrated with the Odin dedicated buffers in many platforms by The Triggered Company as well as our customers. For AR15 use, we do not recommend solid buffers, powdered tungsten buffers, steel bodied buffers, or Kaw Valley stainless steel buffers. We believe that the ratio of overall mass of the buffer must be biased towards the dead blow (moving) weight to prevent bolt bounce. The KVP stainless buffer has a dead blow mass of 1.5oz. A traditional tungsten weighted H3 has a dead blow mass of 4.3oz, or almost 3 times the amount that the KVP has. Additionally, we recommend the purchase of a traditional H3 buffer because it is easy to make it into an H1 or an H2 using the carbine buffer body and weights that most customers already have on hand. That can be used to tune another rifle or tuned for another ammunition type or rate of fire if desired. For 9mm use, most users find that the best starting point is 124gr ammunition and 10oz of buffer weight and then fine tune from there. Changing the strength of the buffer spring may or may not solve the bolt bounce issue. We used standard carbine springs with our H3s during our testing protocol. An increased strength hammer spring may or may not solve this problem either. If you are not having light strike issues in the semi-automatic position, it is not likely that your hammer spring is the culprit. A stronger hammer spring may be able to overcome the bolt bounce and solve the issue, but it is not a guarantee. The only way to be certain to know what kind of buffer you have is to disassemble it and check out the internal weights. Some “shakeable” buffers only have two weights inside or the weights are too light for the overall mass. We cannot guarantee function with the non-recommended buffer types. To install an upper onto a lower with one of our triggers, this is the method that I have used so often that I catch myself doing it with ARs that don't have our trigger in them. Install the rear at an angle and pull back on the charging handle slightly to allow the rear of the BCG to pass the out of battery sear, then rotate the front onto the lower and get both pins in. If it's up to me, I want LATs in just about every gun. |
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Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Let me try to answer your questions: Position two, as in semi? https://media1.giphy.com/media/3o7aCWJavAgtBzLWrS/200.webp?cid=8dc8958cfvw4m1n97pbjca8lomgwmzqcthbgjie13btcojq0&ep=v1_gifs_search&rid=200.webp&ct=g By trip spring, do you mean out of battery sear spring? Or hammer spring? Let me give my input on both: -The hammer spring is the same one as is currently shipping with the Disruptor. It is stronger than our shiny silver original spring. -The out of battery sear spring is exactly the same as the Disruptor's. It's a tiny torsion spring. Your buffer spring should easily be able to overcome it and push your bolt into battery. If it doesn't-there's something wrong. Please contact me. I have some pretty significant doubts that the out of battery sear spring could ever stop a bolt going into battery. Light strikes are mostly caused by improper buffer selection, not the hammer spring. I have had a very small number of reports of *actual, true, verified* light strikes compared to the number of triggers that we have shipped. If you have light strikes in semi, yeah, that's a hammer spring problem. A bad batch of wire, a bad temper, something that got pressed past it's elastic deformation limit. If you're having light strikes in the enhanced position, we have a buffer notice on our website: To install an upper onto a lower with one of our triggers, this is the method that I have used so often that I catch myself doing it with ARs that don't have our trigger in them. Install the rear at an angle and pull back on the charging handle slightly to allow the rear of the BCG to pass the out of battery sear, then rotate the front onto the lower and get both pins in. If it's up to me, I want LATs in just about every gun. Thank you for the super detailed reply! I only asked about the strength of the OOB safety spring because the one on my disruptor seems to provide JUST enough resistance on my Lakeside Razorback belt-fed 22 upper to interrupt function (recoil spring isn't super strong on those for obvious reasons). That is my theory at least. Works just fine on centerfire stuff as intended so I'm not complaining. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Mine is still chugging along. It's my understanding that they are using proper weight hammer springs now, so light strikes should be a thing of the past. The trip is a little more difficult to get to fit to an upper than either a Disruptor or Rare Breed. My usual tricks of using a knife to press it forward, and dropping the hammer first didn't work, nor does pulling the charging handle back while closing, so I have to kind of "back" the upper onto the lower. Get it to fit from back to front, sort of at a downward/rearward angle, while fiddling with the charging handle, and then snapping the takedown pins in after it's flush. What? That’s weird. If the geometry is that different, I doubt it fits the Q guns. The disrupter does fit but you have to do the same thing and hold your mouth just right. |
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Good price ($199) on the Disrupter: https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/the-triggered-company-disruptor-ar-15-3-position-black-drop-in-forced-reset-trigger |
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Originally Posted By triode: Good price ($199) on the Disrupter: https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/the-triggered-company-disruptor-ar-15-3-position-black-drop-in-forced-reset-trigger Not just a good price, but a great price! |
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Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Not just a good price, but a great price! Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Originally Posted By triode: Good price ($199) on the Disrupter: https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/the-triggered-company-disruptor-ar-15-3-position-black-drop-in-forced-reset-trigger Not just a good price, but a great price! Which is the newer model? The green body or black? Also you mentioned in your email about shimming it for the 9mm. If I use it across multiple platforms will that cause an issue with the M16 bolt body? |
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Originally Posted By leemozoid: Which is the newer model? The green body or black? Also you mentioned in your email about shimming it for the 9mm. If I use it across multiple platforms will that cause an issue with the M16 bolt body? Mine works fine. |
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Originally Posted By leemozoid: Which is the newer model? The green body or black? Also you mentioned in your email about shimming it for the 9mm. If I use it across multiple platforms will that cause an issue with the M16 bolt body? They colors are just preference. They are made in the same place, and have the same parts. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Why would you need to shim it for a 9mm? Mine works fine. What bolt are you using? I've used a Colf and KVP and neither worked. |
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Originally Posted By leemozoid: Which is the newer model? The green body or black? Also you mentioned in your email about shimming it for the 9mm. If I use it across multiple platforms will that cause an issue with the M16 bolt body? Okay, let me fill in everyone else here before there's a bunch of misinformation flying around. I replaced leemozoid's trigger and mentioned to him that I have had a few customers (including ones from Arfcom) tell me that they shimmed their cassette up a very small amount to help their AR9s reset in the enhanced position. That should not be the norm. We have noted an issue that due to variations in AR9 bolts, issues can occur with Disruptors.  This chart is made by Blowback9 https://blowback9.wordpress.com/ all credit goes to him. You can see the large amount of differences in measurements across AR9 bolts. Now just imagine when all of these differences (bolt, upper, lower, trigger/hammer pin locations, etc) begin stacking upon each other. I shot several hundred rounds through a Glock mag lower this weekend with both a Disruptor and a LAT. I had a lot of feeding problems with Magpul 22rd mags and had much better luck with Glock OEM 33rd mags. Our triggers can be dropped into AR15/M16s (of course with an M16 cut BCG and proper buffer) and have them run with no issues. If you want to use one lower with a magazine adapter block with two different uppers and different buffers, I would not recommend shimming anything. I would just swap out the trigger as well while I'm doing that. Of course, I install and remove many triggers on a daily basis, so it takes me only a few seconds. This past weekend, I put many hundreds of rounds through one of PSA's H&R 635s. Specifically, this one: H&R 635. I used both a LAT and a Disruptor during this time.  As you can see, it ran great. I used a Tromix RRT 9mm buffer and some relatively hot 124gr ammo. Would I use this instead of an AR-V for anything serious? No. The AR-V runs fantastically and has all the modern features that I want and magazines are much cheaper. If I want to feel retro, this 635 fits the bill pretty nicely. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: The trip is a little more difficult to get to fit to an upper than either a Disruptor or Rare Breed. My usual tricks of using a knife to press it forward, and dropping the hammer first didn't work, nor does pulling the charging handle back while closing, so I have to kind of "back" the upper onto the lower. Get it to fit from back to front, sort of at a downward/rearward angle, while fiddling with the charging handle, and then snapping the takedown pins in after it's flush. There is a much easier way of closing the upper on a LAT. With the hammer cocked and the selector on safe, hold back on the trigger and then push forward on the OOB safety lever. As long as you continue to hold rearward pressure on the trigger, the OOB lever will stay forward. Close the upper and push in the takedown pin. Easy peasy. |
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Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Okay, let me fill in everyone else here before there's a bunch of misinformation flying around. I replaced leemozoid's trigger and mentioned to him that I have had a few customers (including ones from Arfcom) tell me that they shimmed their cassette up a very small amount to help their AR9s reset in the enhanced position. That should not be the norm. We have noted an issue that due to variations in AR9 bolts, issues can occur with Disruptors. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/614663/9mmblowback_spreadsheet-3815452.jpg This chart is made by Blowback9 https://blowback9.wordpress.com/ all credit goes to him. You can see the large amount of differences in measurements across AR9 bolts. Now just imagine when all of these differences (bolt, upper, lower, trigger/hammer pin locations, etc) begin stacking upon each other. I shot several hundred rounds through a Glock mag lower this weekend with both a Disruptor and a LAT. I had a lot of feeding problems with Magpul 22rd mags and had much better luck with Glock OEM 33rd mags. Our triggers can be dropped into AR15/M16s (of course with an M16 cut BCG and proper buffer) and have them run with no issues. If you want to use one lower with a magazine adapter block with two different uppers and different buffers, I would not recommend shimming anything. I would just swap out the trigger as well while I'm doing that. Of course, I install and remove many triggers on a daily basis, so it takes me only a few seconds. This past weekend, I put many hundreds of rounds through one of PSA's H&R 635s. Specifically, this one: H&R 635. I used both a LAT and a Disruptor during this time. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/614663/LAT_in_635-3815465.png As you can see, it ran great. I used a Tromix RRT 9mm buffer and some relatively hot 124gr ammo. Would I use this instead of an AR-V for anything serious? No. The AR-V runs fantastically and has all the modern features that I want and magazines are much cheaper. If I want to feel retro, this 635 fits the bill pretty nicely. Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Originally Posted By leemozoid: Which is the newer model? The green body or black? Also you mentioned in your email about shimming it for the 9mm. If I use it across multiple platforms will that cause an issue with the M16 bolt body? Okay, let me fill in everyone else here before there's a bunch of misinformation flying around. I replaced leemozoid's trigger and mentioned to him that I have had a few customers (including ones from Arfcom) tell me that they shimmed their cassette up a very small amount to help their AR9s reset in the enhanced position. That should not be the norm. We have noted an issue that due to variations in AR9 bolts, issues can occur with Disruptors. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/614663/9mmblowback_spreadsheet-3815452.jpg This chart is made by Blowback9 https://blowback9.wordpress.com/ all credit goes to him. You can see the large amount of differences in measurements across AR9 bolts. Now just imagine when all of these differences (bolt, upper, lower, trigger/hammer pin locations, etc) begin stacking upon each other. I shot several hundred rounds through a Glock mag lower this weekend with both a Disruptor and a LAT. I had a lot of feeding problems with Magpul 22rd mags and had much better luck with Glock OEM 33rd mags. Our triggers can be dropped into AR15/M16s (of course with an M16 cut BCG and proper buffer) and have them run with no issues. If you want to use one lower with a magazine adapter block with two different uppers and different buffers, I would not recommend shimming anything. I would just swap out the trigger as well while I'm doing that. Of course, I install and remove many triggers on a daily basis, so it takes me only a few seconds. This past weekend, I put many hundreds of rounds through one of PSA's H&R 635s. Specifically, this one: H&R 635. I used both a LAT and a Disruptor during this time. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/614663/LAT_in_635-3815465.png As you can see, it ran great. I used a Tromix RRT 9mm buffer and some relatively hot 124gr ammo. Would I use this instead of an AR-V for anything serious? No. The AR-V runs fantastically and has all the modern features that I want and magazines are much cheaper. If I want to feel retro, this 635 fits the bill pretty nicely. Great information. Thanks for all your help. One question though. Will there be an alignment issue with the pin alignment between the cassette and the receiver when shimmed? |
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Originally Posted By HelpfulGuerilla: Okay, let me fill in everyone else here before there's a bunch of misinformation flying around. I replaced leemozoid's trigger and mentioned to him that I have had a few customers (including ones from Arfcom) tell me that they shimmed their cassette up a very small amount to help their AR9s reset in the enhanced position. That should not be the norm. We have noted an issue that due to variations in AR9 bolts, issues can occur with Disruptors. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/614663/9mmblowback_spreadsheet-3815452.jpg This chart is made by Blowback9 https://blowback9.wordpress.com/ all credit goes to him. You can see the large amount of differences in measurements across AR9 bolts. Now just imagine when all of these differences (bolt, upper, lower, trigger/hammer pin locations, etc) begin stacking upon each other. I shot several hundred rounds through a Glock mag lower this weekend with both a Disruptor and a LAT. I had a lot of feeding problems with Magpul 22rd mags and had much better luck with Glock OEM 33rd mags. Our triggers can be dropped into AR15/M16s (of course with an M16 cut BCG and proper buffer) and have them run with no issues. If you want to use one lower with a magazine adapter block with two different uppers and different buffers, I would not recommend shimming anything. I would just swap out the trigger as well while I'm doing that. Of course, I install and remove many triggers on a daily basis, so it takes me only a few seconds. This past weekend, I put many hundreds of rounds through one of PSA's H&R 635s. Specifically, this one: H&R 635. I used both a LAT and a Disruptor during this time. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/614663/LAT_in_635-3815465.png As you can see, it ran great. I used a Tromix RRT 9mm buffer and some relatively hot 124gr ammo. Would I use this instead of an AR-V for anything serious? No. The AR-V runs fantastically and has all the modern features that I want and magazines are much cheaper. If I want to feel retro, this 635 fits the bill pretty nicely. Well thanks, I bought another Disruptor now. Been working on getting a Colt 9mm to run and it’s been a huge pain in the ass. I might just buy one of these 635s. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: I still want to know what the pic in the other post means? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608514/1000007275-3814763.jpg I think you need a native Russian speaker to understand the nuance that is contained in the actual meaning vs the literal meaning of the caption of that photo. 
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Originally Posted By Ben: I think you need a native Russian speaker to understand the nuance that is contained in the actual meaning vs the literal meaning of the caption of that photo. Yes. This is a Russian anti-Bolshevik/White migr propaganda poster, titled "Morning is approaching ". It belongs to the visual tradition of the Russian White movement, which portrayed a future liberation of Russia from Bolshevik rule. A source catalogues it among White Russian Civil War-era posters. "Russia is suffering in darkness now, but the day will come when Russia is liberated. The Russian people must rise and fight for that future." The poster is therefore political propaganda, not a neutral depiction of Russian history. Its emotional appeal is deliberately optimistic and heroic: don't give up the dawn is coming. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: This is what Chat gbt said. Yes. This is a Russian anti-Bolshevik/White migr propaganda poster, titled "Morning is approaching ". It belongs to the visual tradition of the Russian White movement, which portrayed a future liberation of Russia from Bolshevik rule. A source catalogues it among White Russian Civil War-era posters. "Russia is suffering in darkness now, but the day will come when Russia is liberated. The Russian people must rise and fight for that future." The poster is therefore political propaganda, not a neutral depiction of Russian history. Its emotional appeal is deliberately optimistic and heroic: don't give up the dawn is coming. |
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So I have 2 Partisans now. The 2nd 1 is in a 16" carbine with carbine length gas tube and an H3 buffer. That one works perfectly. The 1st one, I tried in my PSA AR9 with no luck. I swapped it out to a mid-length gas tube 16 inch carbine with H3 buffer. I'm getting mid mag FRT failures including light primer strikes. Is that caused by the weak hammer spring? One of the Partisan guys did send me a replacement hammer spring for my 1st trigger. A friend of mine bought 2 of them and what I would've thought was the newest, latest and greatest Partisan. We got 1 running in a 16" carbine gas system AR with H3 buffer. He also has a mid-length gas system carbine. We were not able to get that one to run, even with a H3 buffer. Same light primer strikes. I was under the impression that only the 1st batch had bad hammer springs. Looks like I need 2 more hammer springs. |
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Originally Posted By jaqufrost: What H3 buffer are you using? I don't recall the brand but both have sliding tungsten weights in them. Both mid-length uppers are from PSA. Edit Spikes Tactical  My mid-length PSA upper was on a PSA lower with Super Safety. It runs fine with the Super Safety. I had a viewer on youtube ask me about using the mid-length upper on a Partisan. I figured I would give it a go. I made a shitty 1 cut video that I didn't post on youtube. Imagine my surprise, it didn't work. |
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Originally Posted By drobs: So I have 2 Partisans now. The 2nd 1 is in a 16" carbine with carbine length gas tube and an H3 buffer. That one works perfectly. The 1st one, I tried in my PSA AR9 with no luck. I swapped it out to a mid-length gas tube 16 inch carbine with H3 buffer. I'm getting mid mag FRT failures including light primer strikes. Is that caused by the weak hammer spring? One of the Partisan guys did send me a replacement hammer spring for my 1st trigger. A friend of mine bought 2 of them and what I would've thought was the newest, latest and greatest Partisan. We got 1 running in a 16" carbine gas system AR with H3 buffer. He also has a mid-length gas system carbine. We were not able to get that one to run, even with a H3 buffer. Same light primer strikes. I was under the impression that only the 1st batch had bad hammer springs. Looks like I need 2 more hammer springs. What color is your hammer spring? The first batch were silver, the new ones are black. @HelpfulGuerilla can correct me on that if I'm incorrect. |
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Originally Posted By drobs: I don't recall the brand but both have sliding tungsten weights in them. Both mid-length uppers are from PSA. Edit Spikes Tactical https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41568/Spikes_Tactical_JPG-3816953.jpg My mid-length PSA upper was on a PSA lower with Super Safety. It runs fine with the Super Safety. I had a viewer on youtube ask me about using the mid-length upper on a Partisan. I figured I would give it a go. I made a shitty 1 cut video that I didn't post on youtube. Imagine my surprise, it didn't work. Originally Posted By drobs: Originally Posted By jaqufrost: What H3 buffer are you using? I don't recall the brand but both have sliding tungsten weights in them. Both mid-length uppers are from PSA. Edit Spikes Tactical https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41568/Spikes_Tactical_JPG-3816953.jpg My mid-length PSA upper was on a PSA lower with Super Safety. It runs fine with the Super Safety. I had a viewer on youtube ask me about using the mid-length upper on a Partisan. I figured I would give it a go. I made a shitty 1 cut video that I didn't post on youtube. Imagine my surprise, it didn't work. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What color is your hammer spring? The first batch were silver, the new ones are black. @HelpfulGuerilla can correct me on that if I'm incorrect. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By drobs: So I have 2 Partisans now. The 2nd 1 is in a 16" carbine with carbine length gas tube and an H3 buffer. That one works perfectly. The 1st one, I tried in my PSA AR9 with no luck. I swapped it out to a mid-length gas tube 16 inch carbine with H3 buffer. I'm getting mid mag FRT failures including light primer strikes. Is that caused by the weak hammer spring? One of the Partisan guys did send me a replacement hammer spring for my 1st trigger. A friend of mine bought 2 of them and what I would've thought was the newest, latest and greatest Partisan. We got 1 running in a 16" carbine gas system AR with H3 buffer. He also has a mid-length gas system carbine. We were not able to get that one to run, even with a H3 buffer. Same light primer strikes. I was under the impression that only the 1st batch had bad hammer springs. Looks like I need 2 more hammer springs. What color is your hammer spring? The first batch were silver, the new ones are black. @HelpfulGuerilla can correct me on that if I'm incorrect. Both are silver.  Windham lower top with Spikes T3 buffer. PSA lower bottom with PWS H3 buffer. Since I have them apart, I will try the PSA PWS buffer lower with the mid-length upper. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I think the spike's tactical uses tungsten powder and not solid weights. You need a buffer with a solid weights. Originally Posted By fulautotank: Originally Posted By drobs: Originally Posted By jaqufrost: What H3 buffer are you using? I don't recall the brand but both have sliding tungsten weights in them. Both mid-length uppers are from PSA. Edit Spikes Tactical https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41568/Spikes_Tactical_JPG-3816953.jpg My mid-length PSA upper was on a PSA lower with Super Safety. It runs fine with the Super Safety. I had a viewer on youtube ask me about using the mid-length upper on a Partisan. I figured I would give it a go. I made a shitty 1 cut video that I didn't post on youtube. Imagine my surprise, it didn't work. Two types made by Spikes. I own about 9 Spikes T3 buffers that are proper, 3x Tungsten weight H3. |
I don't see no Americans. I see trespassers.
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Two types made by Spikes. I own about 9 Spikes T3 buffers that are proper, 3x Tungsten weight H3. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By fulautotank: Originally Posted By drobs: Originally Posted By jaqufrost: What H3 buffer are you using? I don't recall the brand but both have sliding tungsten weights in them. Both mid-length uppers are from PSA. Edit Spikes Tactical https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41568/Spikes_Tactical_JPG-3816953.jpg My mid-length PSA upper was on a PSA lower with Super Safety. It runs fine with the Super Safety. I had a viewer on youtube ask me about using the mid-length upper on a Partisan. I figured I would give it a go. I made a shitty 1 cut video that I didn't post on youtube. Imagine my surprise, it didn't work. Two types made by Spikes. I own about 9 Spikes T3 buffers that are proper, 3x Tungsten weight H3. 
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Originally Posted By drobs: Both are silver. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41568/Partisan_2_JPG-3816958.jpg Windham lower top with Spikes T3 buffer. PSA lower bottom with PWS H3 buffer. Since I have them apart, I will try the PSA PWS buffer lower with the mid-length upper. Whew, even before I've finished all my coffee today, I can see at least one problem. Slap a strong magnet on that PWS buffer and tell me what it does. . Or google what material it's made out of. If you feel brave, take that bumper off and measure the amount of deadblow mass.The hammer spring that I sent to you way back when was a pre-prototype. Thanks to minimum order quantities, we had plenty extra. We made dimensional, material, and spring coefficient changes to those pre-prototypes prior to our production. I'll say my hammer spring thing again: If you are having problems in semi-auto and enhanced, that is a hammer spring strength issue (deformation, temper, material flaws, etc). If the problems are not present in semi auto, but are present in enhanced, it is more likely a timing issue. Can a stronger hammer spring overcome bolt bounce? Yes, to some degree. However, please check out your buffer and make certain that it is what we recommend prior to changing any other parts. It'll be cheaper in the long run. All of our testing protocol was done with standard carbine springs and regular old vanilla H3 buffers with 3x moving tungsten weights. Sorry about the massive increase in the price of tungsten, I like to think that we played a part. @drobs, I'll be glad to help you out. I will shoot you a PM with further instruction. |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR: @HelpfulGuerilla @Ben any word on the FAL trigger and whether it will work with an Imbel receiver? First, I will commend you in your excellent choice in receivers. Obviously we will do our best to ensure that it's compatible across all receiver manufacturers. Hesse excluded, because I'll never buy one, but I should probably see what the team will say if I request to expense a FN 50.63, just to ensure compatibility, or something. Second, I'll tell you that the FAL trigger is in process, but it's not our first priority as of this exact moment in time. Maybe it'll make nice a Christmas present. |
Triggered [Formerly Partisan] Talk (Page 37 of 40)
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