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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:33:56 AM EDT
[#1]
I lay the barrel on a hard surface, like a steel top work bench. I use a section of 5/8" round brass and a bfh, the first hammer blows have to shock the taper pins loose, then they come out fine (usually).
A handheld propane torch to the fsb sometimes helps. I've not had a set that wouldn't come out yet. MAP gas is preferred. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:36:13 AM EDT
[#2]
You could try to get the assembly into a freezer if you have one large enough. Wait a couple hours and then apply heat to the FSB and then try tapping the pins out. If that fails, break out the Dremel tool and just buy a new FSB.
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:37:18 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I lay the barrel on a hard surface, like a steel top work bench. I use a section of 5/8" round brass and a bfh, the first hammer blows have to shock the taper pins loose, then they come out fine (usually). A handheld propane torch to the fsb sometimes helps. I've not had a set that wouldn't come out yet. MAP gas is preferred. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:40:46 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's a 'bfh'? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I lay the barrel on a hard surface, like a steel top work bench. I use a section of 5/8" round brass and a bfh, the first hammer blows have to shock the taper pins loose, then they come out fine (usually). A handheld propane torch to the fsb sometimes helps. I've not had a set that wouldn't come out yet. MAP gas is preferred. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:41:32 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's a 'bfh'? |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:42:39 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's a 'bfh'? |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:50:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Any opinions on a heat gun? |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 9:57:07 AM EDT
[#8]
Get the sight supported against something solid like a concrete block sitting on a concrete floor. Use something between the sight and block/support to protect the finish from scratches, a piece of rubber roofing or leather works well. Get everything supported properly so you can focus on controlling the punch and hammer. Use a heavy hammer (sledge hammer). Repeated hits from a small hammer are not nearly as effective as one solid swing from a sledge. One big Thor type swing will knock them right out.
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:05:49 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
What's a 'bfh'? Bfh= big fucking hammer. 
You need solid support on that fsb. As it stands, that wood block/strip and countertop(?) surface is absorbing all of the blow. Eta: a quality heat gun may get the fsb hot enough. Torch is much preferred. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:17:27 AM EDT
[#10]
You’re not banging on that upper with a red dot installed? Surely you wouldnt do that.
And get another set of hands to hold that upper down tight. If it’s bouncing then it’s absorbing the impact. It should only take one or two good whacks to loose them pins. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:18:52 AM EDT
[#11]
The kitchen table is not the best place to do it. Go caveman, and put it on the concrete.
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:21:16 AM EDT
[#12]
I find that a large brass punch works better than steel. The brass gives a slight deadening effect, which seems to transfer more energy to the pins. Hitting a steel punch with a steel hammer against steel pins tends to result in the punch bouncing of the pins. Plus brass is less likely to slip, and less likely to damage your pins and FSB. It needs to be a pretty stout punch, the one I use looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-Tapered-Punch-8-7/dp/B01LI63TRA |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:27:45 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The kitchen table is not the best place to do it. Go caveman, and put it on the concrete. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 10:35:57 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You’re not banging on that upper with a red dot installed? Surely you wouldnt do that. And get another set of hands to hold that upper down tight. If it’s bouncing then it’s absorbing the impact. It should only take one or two good whacks to loose them pins. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 3:39:41 PM EDT
[#15]
You are not going to get them out with that wood taking the blow, wood is not a good backstop for beating taper pins out. I do mine on a steel anvil on my vise and my vice weighs in at over 75 pounds, but that piece of wood is absorbing almost all of the shock of the blow.
Take the scope off the upper before you start hammering on it, you will destroy it if you don't. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 3:53:29 PM EDT
[#16]
My brother gave me a PSA mid-gas he had tried to pound the pins out of. Didn't work. He went to Dremel. That didn't work either. He finally ordered another one w/ the gas block he wanted, and gave me the whittled on one.
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Posted: 10/21/2018 4:13:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Put it in the freezer overnight. Take it out in the AM, heat the FSB with a torch away from the pins. Use the differential heating/cooling to move the pins. I agree with others, you need a SOLID surface otherwise your blows get absorbed by everything BUT the pins.
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Posted: 10/21/2018 4:27:59 PM EDT
[#18]
1. Hit it as hard as you can with the 3lb hammer.
(OP takes a swing) 2. No... like 3x harder than that. Edit: ...and do all of this work on a concrete floor. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 4:42:15 PM EDT
[#19]
Start with a large flat faced punch just to break the proud portion loose...then punch through with small cup tip punches.
ADCO sells the correct cradle to hold the FSB while hammering it. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 5:12:17 PM EDT
[#20]
I have found that putting the fsb in a vertically oriented vise with hard rubber/aluminum or leather jaw covers works very well. It allows me to put some real ass in the hammer blow without worrying about having to hold the upper as well. Can be done in horizontal jaws if need be.
Worst comes to worst, Dremel and then replace it with a DEZTACTICAL clamp on fsb. They are really good sights and fairly priced @$35. Have used several of them over the years. 0 problems. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 8:40:18 PM EDT
[#21]
I had the same Freedom upper, I had to resort to heating it up and then hitting it with a big hammer. I tried Aerokroil at first, then moved to freezing it and finally getting fed up and using a small torch on it.
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Posted: 10/21/2018 11:02:29 PM EDT
[#22]
You're in TX so it isn't that cold yet...
Go outside and lay that upper on the sidewalk. Protect the portion that you don't want to scratch. Support the FSB but not the pins, with something solid, preferably metal. Wood, delrin and those fancy molded plastic FSB blocks just won't do the trick. I've removed plenty of FSBs with an 8oz tack hammer. Try heating and cooling to extremes if needed. FYI: Kroil actually does what PB blaster and WD 40 only promise. |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 11:53:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Some FSB pins are directional.
You generally drive them out left side toward right side...  Removal of a pinned AR15 Front Sight Base I used a AR armorer block that has the holes for the driven through FSB pins I did mine on a wood workbench with a generous overnight soak of Kroil... |
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Posted: 10/21/2018 11:59:28 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some FSB pins are directional. You drive them out left side toward right side...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lxpxOMHLjM
I used a AR armorer block that has the holes for the driven through FSB pins I did mine on a wood workbench with a generous overnight soak of Kroil... |
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Posted: 10/22/2018 12:05:18 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Generally true, although I have posted a few times about both S&W and some Rugers that are pinned from left to right and thus require removing from the right side as opposed to removing from the left side. Careful visual determination of which side has the SMALLER diameter pins protruding is called for. Magnification is your friend.
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Posted: 10/22/2018 12:49:02 AM EDT
[#26]
A piece of wood on concrete floor has helped me punch out stubborn pins.
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Posted: 10/22/2018 11:03:54 AM EDT
[#27]
Also...I've used a spring loaded center punch with maxed out spring pressure. The "shock" of the energy released with this type of punch can get things moving along better than swinging a heavy hammer.
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Posted: 10/22/2018 11:21:47 AM EDT
[#28]
I found using a 1/8" punch that had the 1/8" part cut back to only about 1/8" long to get the pin start made a big difference for me. After the pin moves a little then I swap to a standard length punch.
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Posted: 10/22/2018 1:06:45 PM EDT
[#29]
Since no one else brought it up, make sure you're banging the pins in the right direction. They are tapered. Obviously trying to push them out the wrong way is going to be difficult.
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Posted: 10/22/2018 2:25:32 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since no one else brought it up, make sure you're banging the pins in the right direction. They are tapered. Obviously trying to push them out the wrong way is going to be difficult. |
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Posted: 10/24/2018 4:25:33 AM EDT
[#31]
I use wood to support the barrel assembly, it's a 30" diameter oak stump. It's solid as a rock. But I'm grinding it out today.
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Posted: 10/27/2018 7:20:21 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use wood to support the barrel assembly, it's a 30" diameter oak stump. It's solid as a rock. But I'm grinding it out today. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 8:39:17 PM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 10/27/2018 9:01:02 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryNo, we don't all need one of those, I am sure many would like to have one, but we don't need them....
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Posted: 10/27/2018 9:04:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, we don't all need one of those, I am sure many would like to have one, but we don't need them.... I rather just modify my vise though. 
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Posted: 10/27/2018 9:15:39 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe I should have said I really want my vise set up to do this. Either that or I'm going to go the arbor press route. I rather just modify my vise though. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 9:25:39 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pushing pins out is pretty easy, I can do it on my vise or my press, but most of the time, it is just a couple of wacks on the anvil on the vise. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Maybe I should have said I really want my vise set up to do this. Either that or I'm going to go the arbor press route. I rather just modify my vise though. I've only done it a few times, but during those few times I've learned that the better you support everything the easier it is. I can't imagine anything being easier than pressing them out though. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 9:34:37 PM EDT
[#38]
out of curiosity, why are you taking off the FSB?
Would just cutting off (dremel) the sight tower accomplish what you need done? Assuming you are installing a FF rail. nevermind, you intend to reuse it elsewhere. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 9:52:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I suppose the more of them that you've done the easier it gets. I've only done it a few times, but during those few times I've learned that the better you support everything the easier it is. I can't imagine anything being easier than pressing them out though. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 10:12:08 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It seems each set of them have their own personality, so having more than one gun in your stable does pay off. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I suppose the more of them that you've done the easier it gets. I've only done it a few times, but during those few times I've learned that the better you support everything the easier it is. I can't imagine anything being easier than pressing them out though. So, I guess a press isn't always the best option? You obviously have the option and still choose to do it with a punch and hammer. So maybe pressing them out isn't as great as I've cracked it up to be in my mind? 
Here's the thread. > Link. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 10:30:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Some things just require persuasion by hammer.
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Posted: 10/27/2018 11:04:46 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I found a thread from last year where you talked about using a hydraulic press, but you also said that sometimes you need the shock of being whacked with a punch and hammer to actually get them moving. So, I guess a press isn't always the best option? You obviously have the option and still choose to do it with a punch and hammer. So maybe pressing them out isn't as great as I've cracked it up to be in my mind?
Here's the thread. > Link. |
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Posted: 10/27/2018 11:18:21 PM EDT
[#43]
Gunsmith™
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Posted: 10/27/2018 11:29:22 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gunsmith™ |
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Posted: 10/28/2018 1:12:18 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I lay the barrel on a hard surface, like a steel top work bench. I use a section of 5/8" round brass and a bfh, the first hammer blows have to shock the taper pins loose, then they come out fine (usually). A handheld propane torch to the fsb sometimes helps. I've not had a set that wouldn't come out yet. MAP gas is preferred. |
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Posted: 10/28/2018 9:45:23 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They don't have any tools I don't have, no reason to use a Gunsmith. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Gunsmith™ |
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Posted: 10/28/2018 11:25:01 AM EDT
[#47]
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Posted: 10/28/2018 11:40:49 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is what I use with a bfs. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/445620/AR-front-sight_002_jpg-719726.JPG 
Now I have the set of bench blocks from RGUNS and they work pretty good. They don't support lightweight barrels though. |
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Posted: 10/28/2018 1:03:05 PM EDT
[#49]
I watched one of the supervisors at work this week attempt a set.
Looked like a shoe cobbler tapping on a pin punch with a 12 oz hammer. Getting nowhere. I asked if I could help, he was more than willing. 3 lb hammer and brass round did it in 3 swings. No marring and no fucking around. He brought me a "thank you" Friday in the form of a 30 pk of beers.
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Posted: 10/28/2018 2:15:00 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: you can't buy understanding, knowledge, experience... or humility I do have to say, the AR platform is one of the easier platforms for the home based normal Joe to work on successfully. And in the context of this topic, taper pins are really pretty low on the scale of things that need to go to a gunsmith. |
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