Finally received this rifle a couple of weeks ago,  In preparation for my first range trip this week, I have field stripped it, to inspect, clean, and lube it.  Because this is my first AR, my knowledge is limited to the million Youtube videos I have watched, and my extensive reading here.  Can you guys help me with the following items?

1) The rear takedown pin was pretty hard to activate.  I ended up putting a piece of cloth between it and the end of an allen wrench, and by pushing pretty hard, it moved enough to be able to pull it from the other side. With the upper off, I have now cycled this pin about 10 times, and the issue seems to have improved slightly.  Will this get better over time?  How hard should it be to activate a rear takedown pin?

2) The pivot pin was even more difficult, and damn near impossible to activate by just pushing, even with the allen wrench.  I thought I was going to have to get an actual punch and a hammer, when it finally gave.  Cycling it through just the holes in the lower about 10 times has not helped significantly.  Should this be a concern?  How hard should it be to activate a front pivot pin?

3) I disassembled the BCG.  Once the firing pin and the cam pin were out, the bolt was surprisingly hard to pull out of the carrier. There was just a lot of resistance.  Putting it back in was also more difficult than I anticipated, again because of resistance. It does not move in and out easily, regardless of whether the cam pin is installed or not.  I mention this only because on all the videos I have watched, when a presenter reminds you that before putting the BCG back in the upper to make sure that the bolt is extended from the carrier, they simply flick the BCG downward, and the bolt advances.  Not going to happen right now with this bolt.  Is this an issue?

4) I cannot get the firing pin retaining pin all the way back in.  I can get it started, and but the last 50% of travel just isn't happening.  I have verified that the hole is not obstructed (I can see all the way through the hole to the other side of the carrier, so the firing pin is not in the way).  Is this just a matter of applying more force?  If so, what is the best tool to use, so that I don't mar or actually damage the carrier? Never mind on this one, YT came to the rescue with several suggestions.

One final question, though this is not an issue with this rifle.  I see videos where folks use the firing pin as a tool - to push on the ejector to test spring tension, to push the extractor roll pin out, etc.  Is this a good idea?  I don't know what this FP is made of, but I wouldn't want to deform the very tip, as the tip appears to be not much smaller than the hole in the bolt face through which it has to pass to contact a primer.

Thanks for the help.

Normal, take it shooting. I have a Ruger ar15 and the take down pins are a little hard to push out. Probably 1000 rounds through it. Runs great.

The Ruger AR-556 MPR is not my first AR, but it is now my favorite.

After I bought it, I took it out and put four 30 round mags through it - I may clean it after a couple more range trips.

It sounds as though you are experiencing tight tolerances and I don't think that is necessarily a bad thing. Enjoy your new rifle.

It'll break in as you shoot it , tight is ok . Enjoy your new rifle

All can be normal with new rifles/builds.  Take it out and shoot it and things will loosen up over time.

To the Firing Pin as a "punch" thing, I don't do it, for the reason you mentioned.  I rarely ever cycle the ejector, but when I do it's usually at home when I have a brass punch available.  For the extractor pin, I use the tip of the firing pin retaining pin, not the firing pin itself.

Thanks for the responses.  I did indeed use the FP retaining pin to remove the extractor roll pin.  I will clean and lube the rifle today. The bolt fit in the carrier has loosened just a little after 30 or so cycles in my hand.  When I reassemble the rifle, I will cycle it another 30 or so times with the charging handle.

I can't wait to zero it this week.