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Official Arizona Regulators triggers thread (Page 9 of 22)
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Originally Posted By networkguru: I have seen that ding before. I think the back of your hammer is hitting the FRT. May be a variation in upper spec. Is there a corresponding ding or mark on your hammer? Originally Posted By networkguru: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Interesting wear mark on my regulator. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523928/1000005684_jpg-3639462.JPG I filed it off. I'll see if that fixes it tomorrow at the range. I have seen that ding before. I think the back of your hammer is hitting the FRT. May be a variation in upper spec. Is there a corresponding ding or mark on your hammer? Nope. I thought the same thing and looked. I filed the smear off and I'll test again tomorrow. If it still does FRT things in SEMI, then I'll pull it when I get home and do a deeper inspection. |
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The link doesn’t seem to go to a specific post - was it in this thread? |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I haven't seen any instructions or videos for installation... FCG installs like any mil spec FCG as does the selector. The AZR should sit flush in the upper pocket, both levers sitting at about 90 degrees. Close the upper and rack the bolt back slowly, you should not feel any binding. Function check the selector safe position as you normally would. Select semi,dry fire and hold the trigger to the rear and rack the bolt still holding rear trigger pressure. You should feel the trigger forced into reset as the bolt moves back, The AZR is an always forced trigger set up no matter mode. Once the bolt is closed, release the trigger. you should hear the hammer transfer from the disco to trigger sear and be able to fire again. Repeat a few times. Once safe and semi are verified, flip to the 3rd position. Again dry fire and hold the trigger to the rear, now rack the bolt back,you should feel the trigger force into reset. Continue holding the trigger and bolt to the rear. As you slowly let the bolt come forward, still holding the trigger to the rear, the AZR should unlock as the bolt fully closes and allow you to pull the trigger. You if you didn't hear the hammer release, verify it released by releasing the trigger, trigger should be dead... Repeat the steps a few times. If everything is working as expected, lube it up and let her rip! Perfect, thanks - that’s pretty much how I landed on testing it, it seems to be the logical way. Now to find someplace to live fire it. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Interesting wear mark on my regulator. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523928/1000005684_jpg-3639462.JPG I filed it off. I'll see if that fixes it tomorrow at the range. I have a similar mark in that spot on mine too...developed when I used it on a 9mm SBR. |
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: Has anyone heard anything about the AZR-15A2 3 round version? It looks to not yet be out. yes, but the manufacturer would not elaborate any further so i did not ask of it any more. i`m assume if and when its available we will all know. |
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Got back from my range trip today. Still going FRT mode intermittently in SEMI. I'll have to tear it down and inspect it. In other news, there was another couple of guys at the range with FRTs blasting away so we all got to try our different versions and nerd-out. We had a Rare Breed, my AZR 3-pos, Super Safety and an Atrius. All did great and were interesting in the different setups and how they ran. ETA: pics of my regulator at 450 rounds Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Disco Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Hammer Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: So, anybody notice anything different about their AZR 3-Pos versus mine? I'm hoping the above pics can help compare to figure this out. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Hammer looks to be impacting the AZR? That face looks pretty beat up! Here's an M2 MBT that's seen several uppers, over 1k combined 9mm, 5.7x28, 300blk and 5.56. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004852_jpg-3640038.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004853_jpg-3640039.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004854_jpg-3640040.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004859_jpg-3640041.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004858_jpg-3640042.JPG Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: So, anybody notice anything different about their AZR 3-Pos versus mine? I'm hoping the above pics can help compare to figure this out. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004852_jpg-3640038.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004853_jpg-3640039.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004854_jpg-3640040.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004859_jpg-3640041.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004858_jpg-3640042.JPG I believe you're right. I've already filed the top of the hammer since it was contacting. I may have to file more, now. I'm wondering how it's a factor in the FRT intermittence during SEMI, though. I would have thought that maybe like earlier posters have posited, that there may be an issue with the hammer/disconnector engagement. |
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3P AZR out of my PSA ARV 9mm setup. It's only been in one upper, has 400-500rds on it. I just wiped it off for the pics. The last Pic is what it looks like rubbed, ready to go back to work. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By shultz: 3P AZR out of my PSA ARV 9mm setup. It's only been in one upper, has 400-500rds on it. I just wiped it off for the pics. The last Pic is what it looks like rubbed, ready to go back to work. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004860_jpg-3640062.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004863_jpg-3640064.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004861_jpg-3640065.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004862_jpg-3640066.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004864_jpg-3640067.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/39247/1000004865_jpg-3640070.JPG Hmm... Yeah, mine's getting abused. Maybe I should try it in another gun. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: I believe you're right. I've already filed the top of the hammer since it was contacting. I may have to file more, now. I'm wondering how it's a factor in the FRT intermittence during SEMI, though. I would have thought that maybe like earlier posters have posited, that there may be an issue with the hammer/disconnector engagement. |
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If anyone wants to know how to reprofile their disco for the 2 position AZR for install method 1. Your third pic of the 3 position disco shows the perfect profile. You can see the shape as JD created the slot for the AZR leg to engage the trigger bar and not hit the disco. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Pretty sure 03RN is using a super safety... Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: @03RN I'm having issues with my AZR doing FRT things during SEMI. Do you have pictures of your FCG? I do have a 3pos AZr. I really haven't had time to look at it much. I pulled it out and put the g2s back in. I confirmed my zero today at 100 and 200 because last week when I was experiencing the fr in semi my zero appeared off. It was hard to tell but not its normal self. Its back to normal now. Im at work right now, then a match tomorrow am, then work, then 5 days in VT so I may not be able to get pics until next week. I may throw it in my m16a4 clone and try it out next time I shoot. |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: I do have a 3pos AZr. I really haven't had time to look at it much. I pulled it out and put the g2s back in. I confirmed my zero today at 100 and 200 because last week when I was experiencing the fr in semi my zero appeared off. It was hard to tell but not its normal self. Its back to normal now. Im at work right now, then a match tomorrow am, then work, then 5 days in VT so I may not be able to get pics until next week. I may throw it in my m16a4 clone and try it out next time I shoot. Since you're both experiencing the same go fast in semi issue with your 3P, I would think there is a common cause for it. Is the face of you AZR getting damage like 11boomboom? |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Not sure if it's a factor or not for the bursting in semi. I don't see anything wrong with your disco or hammer. Does the disco move freely when semi is selected? Since the 3P is always forced, if the disco is sticking I would think you'd get a unexpected burst. Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: I believe you're right. I've already filed the top of the hammer since it was contacting. I may have to file more, now. I'm wondering how it's a factor in the FRT intermittence during SEMI, though. I would have thought that maybe like earlier posters have posited, that there may be an issue with the hammer/disconnector engagement. It moves freely, so I'm thinking the issue I'm having is related to the heavy wear on the regulator portion. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Sorry man, I thought it was your SS that was going fast in semi position. Since you're both experiencing the same go fast in semi issue with your 3P, I would think there is a common cause for it. Is the face of you AZR getting damage like 11boomboom? Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By 03RN: I do have a 3pos AZr. I really haven't had time to look at it much. I pulled it out and put the g2s back in. I confirmed my zero today at 100 and 200 because last week when I was experiencing the fr in semi my zero appeared off. It was hard to tell but not its normal self. Its back to normal now. Im at work right now, then a match tomorrow am, then work, then 5 days in VT so I may not be able to get pics until next week. I may throw it in my m16a4 clone and try it out next time I shoot. Since you're both experiencing the same go fast in semi issue with your 3P, I would think there is a common cause for it. Is the face of you AZR getting damage like 11boomboom? No worries 👍 I dont think so. I can probably check that real quick when I get home |
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It appears to move and be sloppy in some uppers and that appears to be exasperating the wear. In This case for best life. It seems that it needs an upper that you have a very snug fit that you almost have to tap into place. As well as an upper and lower fitment that is perfection. One of my largest frustrations in the AR world is sloppy fitment. A perfect fit AR that’s snug and zero gaps/wobble, as well as a tight fit for the doohickey is ideal. Just basing this off what I am seeing on here. Seems hardest to find an upper/lower combo with a precise fit. JP enterprises does make oversized take down pins that does an amazing job at tightening the fit up in some guns. But with tighter fit you’ll have a harder time swapping uppers around if that’s your thing. |
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Originally Posted By NachoDip: It appears to move and be sloppy in some uppers and that appears to be exasperating the wear. In This case for best life. It seems that it needs an upper that you have a very snug fit that you almost have to tap into place. As well as an upper and lower fitment that is perfection. One of my largest frustrations in the AR world is sloppy fitment. A perfect fit AR that’s snug and zero gaps/wobble, as well as a tight fit for the doohickey is ideal. Just basing this off what I am seeing on here. Seems hardest to find an upper/lower combo with a precise fit. JP enterprises does make oversized take down pins that does an amazing job at tightening the fit up in some guns. But with tighter fit you’ll have a harder time swapping uppers around if that’s your thing. The problems I'm having are in an upper like that. The regulator portion is tight enough in mine that it stays in there even when the upper/lower halves are separated. I moved my 3-pos into my M16A4 clone to see if I still have issues. |
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I can see sloppy upper to lower fit definitely causing issues like FRT in semi mode. The 3 position AZR is prefitted to assume "mil-spec" distances of hammer, trigger, safety selector, and upper. And the 3 position disco has the slot cut into it to allow the AZR leg to not engage the disco and push directly on the trigger bar. This is different than the 2-pos which has a wide leg. If the AZR FRT is not aligning properly because of sloppy fit, front to back or side to side, the leg may be hitting the disco or not fully engaging the trigger tail. Or both. And what was said about semi mode? That the device is running in FRT, just that the disco is preventing the full FRT mode? And when you move the safety lever to FRT it holds down the disco? Those tolerances are pretty important I would guess and the disco hook has to hold the hammer well. |
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Originally Posted By networkguru: I can see sloppy upper to lower fit definitely causing issues like FRT in semi mode. The 3 position AZR is prefitted to assume "mil-spec" distances of hammer, trigger, safety selector, and upper. And the 3 position disco has the slot cut into it to allow the AZR leg to not engage the disco and push directly on the trigger bar. This is different than the 2-pos which has a wide leg. If the AZR FRT is not aligning properly because of sloppy fit, front to back or side to side, the leg may be hitting the disco or not fully engaging the trigger tail. Or both. And what was said about semi mode? That the device is running in FRT, just that the disco is preventing the full FRT mode? And when you move the safety lever to FRT it holds down the disco? Those tolerances are pretty important I would guess and the disco hook has to hold the hammer well. My disco doesn't show any wear on that passage cut into the side for the regulator leg and I'm experiencing FRT mode on SEMI. I'm trying it in another gun to see if the issue goes away. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: My disco doesn't show any wear on that passage cut into the side for the regulator leg and I'm experiencing FRT mode on SEMI. I'm trying it in another gun to see if the issue goes away. I looked over all my AZR setups this AM. I forgot I did have a tolerance issue in one of them. The hammer was kissing the leading edge of the 3P AZR. Not impacting like your example, but a few thou more and I would have had a bigger problem. I did file the hammer a tad to give additional clearance. Attached File Between tolerance stacking and IMHO, the term "milspec" being used more as a buzzword selling point than actual standard... some of us will end up having issues. |
| When you install the 3 position AZR, I'd suggesting putting a little white chalk on the top of the hammer or the body of the AZR where folks are seeing the wear (like above). Then function check with no ammo or mag. You will see if you are dragging on the hammer. If so, pop out the hammer and file or grind it down until there is no contact between the hammer and AZR body. |
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| That's where I'm at with my 3P. Put the first 200 through it yesterday and am starting to see that spot forming on the front of my AZR. I'm also seeing a shiny spot on the top edge of my hammer where it is hitting the AZR when the hammer is fully back. I need to remove a little bit off the hammer in that spot. My MBT AZR has 5-600 rounds and does not show any wear there. |
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Originally Posted By HEATH223: That's where I'm at with my 3P. Put the first 200 through it yesterday and am starting to see that spot forming on the front of my AZR. I'm also seeing a shiny spot on the top edge of my hammer where it is hitting the AZR when the hammer is fully back. I need to remove a little bit off the hammer in that spot. My MBT AZR has 5-600 rounds and does not show any wear there. That’s with the hammer supplied in the 3P kit? It doesn’t sound like tuning should be a big issue. I like the chalk idea upthread and will be trying that myself. |
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Originally Posted By networkguru: I can see sloppy upper to lower fit definitely causing issues like FRT in semi mode. The 3 position AZR is prefitted to assume "mil-spec" distances of hammer, trigger, safety selector, and upper. And the 3 position disco has the slot cut into it to allow the AZR leg to not engage the disco and push directly on the trigger bar. This is different than the 2-pos which has a wide leg. If the AZR FRT is not aligning properly because of sloppy fit, front to back or side to side, the leg may be hitting the disco or not fully engaging the trigger tail. Or both. And what was said about semi mode? That the device is running in FRT, just that the disco is preventing the full FRT mode? And when you move the safety lever to FRT it holds down the disco? Those tolerances are pretty important I would guess and the disco hook has to hold the hammer well. |
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: That's with the hammer supplied in the 3P kit? It doesn't sound like tuning should be a big issue. I like the chalk idea upthread and will be trying that myself. This brings us back to the whole "milspec" standard... Let's say a manufacturer is producing "milspec" uppers. They have a run of uppers that for what ever reason, setup, calibration whatever result in the autosear pocket not in the exact right spot. They know 99% of the end users will not be sticking an AZR in said pocket much less closing it on an autosear. So they either A, hold standards and scrap the run... Or B, send them out and possibly deal with a hand full of customer service issues. I think we all know what option is most likely... |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I dont think the hammer or AZR is the cause of hammer contact. It's the position of the autosear pocket. if it's a few thou forward out of spec you end up with the hammer striking the AZR. It is pretty easy fix by removing a few thou from the hammer in the right spot in most cases. This brings us back to the whole "milspec" standard... Let's say a manufacturer is producing "milspec" uppers. They have a run of uppers that for what ever reason, setup, calibration whatever result in the autosear pocket not in the exact right spot. They know 99% of the end users will not be sticking an AZR in said pocket much less closing it on an autosear. So they either A, hold standards and scrap the run... Or B, send them out and possibly deal with a hand full of customer service issues. I think we all know what option is most likely... Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By heavyduty: That's with the hammer supplied in the 3P kit? It doesn't sound like tuning should be a big issue. I like the chalk idea upthread and will be trying that myself. This brings us back to the whole "milspec" standard... Let's say a manufacturer is producing "milspec" uppers. They have a run of uppers that for what ever reason, setup, calibration whatever result in the autosear pocket not in the exact right spot. They know 99% of the end users will not be sticking an AZR in said pocket much less closing it on an autosear. So they either A, hold standards and scrap the run... Or B, send them out and possibly deal with a hand full of customer service issues. I think we all know what option is most likely... Fwiw my upper was one of the surplus Phillipino remington uppers. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I dont think the hammer or AZR is the cause of hammer contact. It's the position of the autosear pocket. if it's a few thou forward out of spec you end up with the hammer striking the AZR. It is pretty easy fix by removing a few thou from the hammer in the right spot in most cases. This brings us back to the whole "milspec" standard... Let's say a manufacturer is producing "milspec" uppers. They have a run of uppers that for what ever reason, setup, calibration whatever result in the autosear pocket not in the exact right spot. They know 99% of the end users will not be sticking an AZR in said pocket much less closing it on an autosear. So they either A, hold standards and scrap the run... Or B, send them out and possibly deal with a hand full of customer service issues. I think we all know what option is most likely... Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By heavyduty: That's with the hammer supplied in the 3P kit? It doesn't sound like tuning should be a big issue. I like the chalk idea upthread and will be trying that myself. This brings us back to the whole "milspec" standard... Let's say a manufacturer is producing "milspec" uppers. They have a run of uppers that for what ever reason, setup, calibration whatever result in the autosear pocket not in the exact right spot. They know 99% of the end users will not be sticking an AZR in said pocket much less closing it on an autosear. So they either A, hold standards and scrap the run... Or B, send them out and possibly deal with a hand full of customer service issues. I think we all know what option is most likely... I think this is most likely the issue. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Interesting. I tried one(also H3) in an 11.5 w/AZR 3P and an M2, it would not brrrt. It would fire a single rd then dead trigger with the primer showing a very slight dimple. I assumed carrier bounce since it functioned checked fine. Same gun brrrts using an H3 or H2 regular buffer. Might even run with an H1 but with the ROF increase from H3 to H2 I didn't bother with an H1. I'll give the stealths another shot in my 16" IRA'ish build and maybe a few other rifles. I have H3,H2, and carbine I can try again. Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By ScottS: Learned more about the 3-POS AZR today. First, I dropped one into my 10.5" AR, suppressed, heavy buffer (Armaspec Stealth Recoil Spring H3-equivalent buffer) because it always runs suppressed. This gun runs 100%, have taken classes with it, etc. Great setup. AZR ran with no problems. Faster than my Gemtech HALO-T would have liked, I'll bet. It got pretty hot, and shot some sparks. Then I swapped uppers to my XM-177 clone, and it really didn't run. I got about half a mag of brrrrt, but for the most part it was single shot, and the next round wouldn't feed. I'm pretty sure the buffer was too heavy for that setup. BCG wasn't coming back far enough to pick up that next round. Fair enough. I didn't have another buffer to test. Lesson learned. Next we have my 10.5" lightweight piston gun. It's running the Superlative Arms piston setup, and I was unsure how it would handle the AZR.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__WM8ePkqJEHandles it just fine! Mag after mag without a single hiccup. The ROF seems a bit slow, but that might be the buffer. I might switch to a standard H2 and see if that ups the ROF. All in all, another great (and expensive) AZR day. Same gun brrrts using an H3 or H2 regular buffer. Might even run with an H1 but with the ROF increase from H3 to H2 I didn't bother with an H1. I'll give the stealths another shot in my 16" IRA'ish build and maybe a few other rifles. I have H3,H2, and carbine I can try again.  I did to keep the full context.I revisited using armaspec stealth's today. H3, H2 with AZR 3P. H3 stealth in my 12.5" carbine gas with YHM suppressor gas block(unmodified)and turbo K would not brrrt. I did get a couple 2-4 shot strings this time but mostly the dreaded dead trigger. Same, what appears to be light primer strike on the dead trigger. Then I tried an H2 stealth, same results. Didn't bother trying carbine stealth.. This setup brrrts just fine with a regular H3 or even H2 buffer with good 3:30-5 O'clock ejection depending on ammo/buffer. I dont think it's a gas issue, I still think I'm getting slight carrier bounce with the stealths. Exact same results as above in my 16" mid gas 3P, also suppressed. This does have an adjustable gas block, even after opening it up to what appeared to be WAY over gassed based on ejection pattern and feel, no consistent brrrts were to be had. YMMV... On the up side... I stuck a carbine stealth in my CMMG 5.7 RDB build that functions great with a regular carbine buffer. Ran fine in semi for a full 32rd mag with bolt hold open at the end. So, I threw an AZR M2 MBT in it and it ran like a champ for two full mags w/ BHO for both mags. Limited testing for sure but 5.7 RDB has functioned fine so far with either the stealth or regular carbine buffer with or without an AZR M2 MBT. YMMV... |
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hoping i can step in here please with an issue. i bought an orig. azr for my 9mm set up using method 2. didnt have to take of much off from the bottom of the leg to get it to run well. i just recently bought a used orig. azr from a guy who couldnt get it to run for him. when i got i saw he had filed/ground some of the lower leg off but not a heck of a lot compared to a new one. so i put this one in a very old 16"bushmaster carbine w/ a 5.4oz KV buffer i had just to try it out. i did the "tap, tap, tap"of the trigger as instructed by j.d.`s info and it seemed to pass the test. went to the range to test: all i could get was every time i tried it was 2rd brrts and then an empty chamber with the hammer forward upon opening up the receiver. i thought if it was hammer follow i`d have a round in the chamber w/ a light primer hit but every time it stopped after 2 rounds it was the same...2rds fired & then no rd in the chamber & hammer follow. just thought i could get a few suggestion before i decide to take a thous or 2 off the lower leg at a time & keep trying. |
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Originally Posted By lx2008: hoping i can step in here please with an issue. i bought an orig. azr for my 9mm set up using method 2. didnt have to take of much off from the bottom of the leg to get it to run well. i just recently bought a used orig. azr from a guy who couldnt get it to run for him. when i got i saw he had filed/ground some of the lower leg off but not a heck of a lot compared to a new one. so i put this one in a very old 16"bushmaster carbine w/ a 5.4oz KV buffer i had just to try it out. i did the "tap, tap, tap"of the trigger as instructed by j.d.`s info and it seemed to pass the test. went to the range to test: all i could get was every time i tried it was 2rd brrts and then an empty chamber with the hammer forward upon opening up the receiver. i thought if it was hammer follow i`d have a round in the chamber w/ a light primer hit but every time it stopped after 2 rounds it was the same...2rds fired & then no rd in the chamber & hammer follow. just thought i could get a few suggestion before i decide to take a thous or 2 off the lower leg at a time & keep trying. Edit: Maybe one other possibility assuming the gun functioned without the AZR. Do you see any strikes on the face of the AZR? See pics in previous posts on this very page. If you are, then it's possible your getting enough bolt/hammer drag and not getting the needed bolt velocity to pick up the next rd consistently. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Not hammer follow. Either under gassed or mag issue would be my guess. If gas, you can try an H2 even carbine buffer. Remove the AZR. Now, get the gun functioning well then revisit the AZR, I bet it runs fine. Edit: Maybe one other possibility assuming the gun functioned without the AZR. Do you see any strikes on the face of the AZR? See pics in previous posts on this very page. If you are, then it's possible your getting enough bolt/hammer drag and not getting the needed bolt velocity to pick up the next rd consistently. Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By lx2008: hoping i can step in here please with an issue. i bought an orig. azr for my 9mm set up using method 2. didnt have to take of much off from the bottom of the leg to get it to run well. i just recently bought a used orig. azr from a guy who couldnt get it to run for him. when i got i saw he had filed/ground some of the lower leg off but not a heck of a lot compared to a new one. so i put this one in a very old 16"bushmaster carbine w/ a 5.4oz KV buffer i had just to try it out. i did the "tap, tap, tap"of the trigger as instructed by j.d.`s info and it seemed to pass the test. went to the range to test: all i could get was every time i tried it was 2rd brrts and then an empty chamber with the hammer forward upon opening up the receiver. i thought if it was hammer follow i`d have a round in the chamber w/ a light primer hit but every time it stopped after 2 rounds it was the same...2rds fired & then no rd in the chamber & hammer follow. just thought i could get a few suggestion before i decide to take a thous or 2 off the lower leg at a time & keep trying. Edit: Maybe one other possibility assuming the gun functioned without the AZR. Do you see any strikes on the face of the AZR? See pics in previous posts on this very page. If you are, then it's possible your getting enough bolt/hammer drag and not getting the needed bolt velocity to pick up the next rd consistently. as stated in my post a 5.4oz KV buffer, does work fine with out and ejects rounds at the 4 oclock area. no marks on the azr that i can see. i`ll try diff mags and re-check if i have bolt/hammer drag. i`ll revisit next range try EDIT : i just did some checking that came to mind. i checked the length of the buffer spring...to my surprise ( and i dont know why or how ) i must have put in a rifle spring at some time. i measured it and it was 11 1/4 in. so i put a new carbine spring in ( 10 1/8in ). it may or may not make a difference but thats the first thing i`ll try next time out. |
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SC, USA
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So far I've welded AZR legs to lengthen them cut them and cut my own disco's and triggers to accommodate 3 position units. Once you get the gist there's no going back. One tip I can offer with fiddling around is Presto Mag after fitting. File, grind, shave etc then function test religiously. If you feel good clean up the parts and hit them with the Presto. Lube up then hit the range and be thorough with semi and frt testing. Mags, buffer weights, springs ammo test it all and find what seems to be working. After you feel good about it take a look at the guts and see how the Presto looks on the areas you used it. See some wear in spots can elude to the need to remove some material at those points. Someone mention about the chalk above which is a very good idea to get you out of the shop and range ready. |
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Originally Posted By lx2008: as stated in my post a 5.4oz KV buffer, does work fine with out and ejects rounds at the 4 oclock area. no marks on the azr that i can see. i`ll try diff mags and re-check if i have bolt/hammer drag. i`ll revisit next range try EDIT : i just did some checking that came to mind. i checked the length of the buffer spring...to my surprise ( and i dont know why or how ) i must have put in a rifle spring at some time. i measured it and it was 11 1/4 in. so i put a new carbine spring in ( 10 1/8in ). it may or may not make a difference but thats the first thing i`ll try next time out. |
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Originally Posted By viator: I just went JD's website to pick up two more 3 position units. It shows that everything that he makes is out of stock. I have never seen that before. It seems unusual. Does anyone know what's up? Exposure from the PSR video? |
Middleofnowhere, Nebraska
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Originally Posted By FlatlandBusa: Originally Posted By viator: I just went JD's website to pick up two more 3 position units. It shows that everything that he makes is out of stock. I have never seen that before. It seems unusual. Does anyone know what's up? Video dropped Sunday - from a few posts up  An FRT That's NOT A Trigger! |
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Originally Posted By way: Yep. Comments said JD's site temporarily crashed. Everything sold out in an hour. Video dropped Sunday - from a few posts up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29id4JYkj1sOriginally Posted By way: Originally Posted By FlatlandBusa: Originally Posted By viator: I just went JD's website to pick up two more 3 position units. It shows that everything that he makes is out of stock. I have never seen that before. It seems unusual. Does anyone know what's up? Video dropped Sunday - from a few posts up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29id4JYkj1sWell, I had watched the video but never associated the two things. I had never heard of PSR before, so I had no idea that one of his videos could do this. Thanks for the info. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Seems wierd quoting myself I did to keep the full context.I revisited using armaspec stealth's today. H3, H2 with AZR 3P. H3 stealth in my 12.5" carbine gas with YHM suppressor gas block(unmodified)and turbo K would not brrrt. I did get a couple 2-4 shot strings this time but mostly the dreaded dead trigger. Same, what appears to be light primer strike on the dead trigger. Then I tried an H2 stealth, same results. Didn't bother trying carbine stealth.. This setup brrrts just fine with a regular H3 or even H2 buffer with good 3:30-5 O'clock ejection depending on ammo/buffer. I dont think it's a gas issue, I still think I'm getting slight carrier bounce with the stealths. Exact same results as above in my 16" mid gas 3P, also suppressed. This does have an adjustable gas block, even after opening it up to what appeared to be WAY over gassed based on ejection pattern and feel, no consistent brrrts were to be had. YMMV... On the up side... I stuck a carbine stealth in my CMMG 5.7 RDB build that functions great with a regular carbine buffer. Ran fine in semi for a full 32rd mag with bolt hold open at the end. So, I threw an AZR M2 MBT in it and it ran like a champ for two full mags w/ BHO for both mags. Limited testing for sure but 5.7 RDB has functioned fine so far with either the stealth or regular carbine buffer with or without an AZR M2 MBT. YMMV... I'm guessing the dead trigger / light primer strike is bolt bounce. I tried a H1 buffer with 3pos AZR and am getting the same in my pistol AR15 & carbine AR15. Next up will be a H2 buffer which I need to assemble. I might throw a couple quarters into the bottom of the buffer tube and see if that fixes it. My AS Designs and Grey Market Research Super Safeties have been 100% reliable. This 3pos AZR is not there yet. |
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Originally Posted By drobs: I'm guessing the dead trigger / light primer strike is bolt bounce. I tried a H1 buffer with 3pos AZR and am getting the same in my pistol AR15 & carbine AR15. Next up will be a H2 buffer which I need to assemble. I might throw a couple quarters into the bottom of the buffer tube and see if that fixes it. My AS Designs and Grey Market Research Super Safeties have been 100% reliable. This 3pos AZR is not there yet. My best ROF stup so far is 16" mid length gas, H3 buffer and a well tuned adjustable gas block. Smooth and chugs along at I think 600-700rpm. I need to stop forgetting my shot timer and see just what my ROF is I want to get the bits gathered for an A5 buffer set up. I'd like to drop the ROF on that same 16" setup if I can. I think the longer stroke coupled with a heavier A5 buffer will do this... |
Official Arizona Regulators triggers thread (Page 9 of 22)
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