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New Ruger SFAR (Small Frame Autoloading rifle) (Page 49 of 51)
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I had no idea such a thing existed! Neat! But yeah, the hook on the catch is worn, or the spring is broken or worst of all the back edge of the catch slot in the receiver is damaged and worn. Easy test for that would be to reinstall the original charging handle. |
Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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These are interesting. A couple questions, Do they take any AR10 barrel or is there a specific spec that you would need to buy? Any word on whether Ruger will sell just the receiver set? I'm on the fence between an SFAR and a GAP10... obviously the GAP will be more accurate out of the box but with a little work the SFAR could be a better package at the end of the day |
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Originally Posted By BrandonP: These are interesting. A couple questions, Do they take any AR10 barrel or is there a specific spec that you would need to buy? Any word on whether Ruger will sell just the receiver set? I'm on the fence between an SFAR and a GAP10... obviously the GAP will be more accurate out of the box but with a little work the SFAR could be a better package at the end of the day Proprietary sole-source barrel. No on the reciever |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: Ok so the factory charging handle doesn’t unlock on the last round. But, as long as I have the stock fully extended the other charging handle doesn’t hit me. Huh? The factory charging handle works like every other mil-spec charging handle. And how is it "hitting" you? Is your charging handle reciprocating with the bolt? |
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Originally Posted By kwb377: Huh? The factory charging handle works like every other mil-spec charging handle. And how is it "hitting" you? Is your charging handle reciprocating with the bolt? Ok so I have another charging handle brand that I use on all of my ar rifles, and what has happened after 300 rounds on the last round no matter what it will unlock and extend towards my face. Ive never had this problem on any rifle Ive assembled and I cant duplicate it with the action manually. I replaced it with the OEM that came with the sfar and theres no problem, other than itll stick a case once n awhile and thats why I use the brand I do. I was explaining this above to others, as its a ongoing problem. But Ill live with it, long has I have the stock fully extended theres no issue. |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: Ok so I have another charging handle brand that I use on all of my ar rifles, and what has happened after 300 rounds on the last round no matter what it will unlock and extend towards my face. Ive never had this problem on any rifle Ive assembled and I cant duplicate it with the action manually. I replaced it with the OEM that came with the sfar and theres no problem, other than itll stick a case once n awhile and thats why I use the brand I do. I was explaining this above to others, as its a ongoing problem. But Ill live with it, long has I have the stock fully extended theres no issue. Originally Posted By country_boy87: Originally Posted By kwb377: Huh? The factory charging handle works like every other mil-spec charging handle. And how is it "hitting" you? Is your charging handle reciprocating with the bolt? Ok so I have another charging handle brand that I use on all of my ar rifles, and what has happened after 300 rounds on the last round no matter what it will unlock and extend towards my face. Ive never had this problem on any rifle Ive assembled and I cant duplicate it with the action manually. I replaced it with the OEM that came with the sfar and theres no problem, other than itll stick a case once n awhile and thats why I use the brand I do. I was explaining this above to others, as its a ongoing problem. But Ill live with it, long has I have the stock fully extended theres no issue. I'm trying to figure out the physics of that.. How does the bolt cycling back on the last round know and engage the CH differently in that case? Are you sure it's not partially doing that every single shot, with sketchy CH? Because it'll slam it back closed every shot upon bolt being closed - except for the last shot where it locks open, and the CH now stays back, and had enough time for it's own momentum to continue backward far enough long enough to touch your face, where before it maybe was being outpaced by the cycling bolt? Obviously top suspect is your questionable CH unit, has it's channel is cut wrong, and not enough clearance for the reciprocating gas key. Factory one works fine. I'm glad you posted the failure, as opportunity for other guys to say the same, and if 4 dudes replied saying they have the same, we'd know there's a dimensional oddity. But since this is only apparently happening to you, now we know that the gas key is fine, and there's probably something wrong with your particular CH. |
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| I bought a PSA CH that is like the Radian Raptor and put on my 300blk AR pistol and it would unlock and fly back and hit me in the nose at least once ot twice every mag. My buddy who is on all the forums read others having the same problem from that particular CH too. Returned it and got a real Raptor and it doesn't do it. I don't know if it's the bolt, CH or why it was doing it. |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I'm trying to figure out the physics of that.. How does the bolt cycling back on the last round know and engage the CH differently in that case? Are you sure it's not partially doing that every single shot, with sketchy CH? Because it'll slam it back closed every shot upon bolt being closed - except for the last shot where it locks open, and the CH now stays back, and had enough time for it's own momentum to continue backward far enough long enough to touch your face, where before it maybe was being outpaced by the cycling bolt? Obviously top suspect is your questionable CH unit, has it's channel is cut wrong, and not enough clearance for the reciprocating gas key. Factory one works fine. I'm glad you posted the failure, as opportunity for other guys to say the same, and if 4 dudes replied saying they have the same, we'd know there's a dimensional oddity. But since this is only apparently happening to you, now we know that the gas key is fine, and there's probably something wrong with your particular CH. I should also note this upfront is the 16" 308 model, i have the dead air muzzle brake keymo so theres a lot of blast and rattling going on. Its the springfield armory levarge charging handle, I use them on all my rifles as it gives me a mechanical advantage to unlock the bcg instead of mortaring. I dont have enough grip to mortar with the oem 1. Which I still have a stuck case every now and then. It might be possible that because this is a lightweight rifle that the recoil from this design is rattling and on the last round it finally unlocks. But! It only unlocks on the last round, no matter what number of rounds I have loaded. |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: I should also note this upfront is the 16" 308 model, i have the dead air muzzle brake keymo so theres a lot of blast and rattling going on. Its the springfield armory levarge charging handle, I use them on all my rifles as it gives me a mechanical advantage to unlock the bcg instead of mortaring. I dont have enough grip to mortar with the oem 1. Which I still have a stuck case every now and then. It might be possible that because this is a lightweight rifle that the recoil from this design is rattling and on the last round it finally unlocks. But! It only unlocks on the last round, no matter what number of rounds I have loaded. Originally Posted By country_boy87: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: I'm trying to figure out the physics of that.. How does the bolt cycling back on the last round know and engage the CH differently in that case? Are you sure it's not partially doing that every single shot, with sketchy CH? Because it'll slam it back closed every shot upon bolt being closed - except for the last shot where it locks open, and the CH now stays back, and had enough time for it's own momentum to continue backward far enough long enough to touch your face, where before it maybe was being outpaced by the cycling bolt? Obviously top suspect is your questionable CH unit, has it's channel is cut wrong, and not enough clearance for the reciprocating gas key. Factory one works fine. I'm glad you posted the failure, as opportunity for other guys to say the same, and if 4 dudes replied saying they have the same, we'd know there's a dimensional oddity. But since this is only apparently happening to you, now we know that the gas key is fine, and there's probably something wrong with your particular CH. I should also note this upfront is the 16" 308 model, i have the dead air muzzle brake keymo so theres a lot of blast and rattling going on. Its the springfield armory levarge charging handle, I use them on all my rifles as it gives me a mechanical advantage to unlock the bcg instead of mortaring. I dont have enough grip to mortar with the oem 1. Which I still have a stuck case every now and then. It might be possible that because this is a lightweight rifle that the recoil from this design is rattling and on the last round it finally unlocks. But! It only unlocks on the last round, no matter what number of rounds I have loaded. The stuck case item is a whole other item of concern. Sounds like you might need to call Ruger. i will say, I was having extraction/ejection issues until I upped my spring system on the extractor (I put an o-ring on it, and replaced the spring). Then it went away. |
I had a not ideal day yesterday     Factory hornady 150gr interlock sp I should have noticed sooner, I turned the gas on the riflespeed down to 2 and it still felt overgassed. That last round had a ton of gas and junk hit me in the face. Had to drive the case out with a rod. |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: Ok guys here’s a new 1 for me, on the last round- bolt locks back and the charging handle flys out and touches my nose. What causes that. It's a fairly common problem on big bore AR-15's as well. That's why all Tromix uppers have heavy duty latch springs installed. We also sell the springs separately. Tony Rumore Tromix |
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Originally Posted By Dark_zero_x: I had a not ideal day yesterday https://i.imgur.com/eo2SGru.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/MROXlD9.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/orbuE9P.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/RcEnFHO.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/0yaOydV.jpeg Factory hornady 150gr interlock sp I should have noticed sooner, I turned the gas on the riflespeed down to 2 and it still felt overgassed. That last round had a ton of gas and junk hit me in the face. Had to drive the case out with a rod. I have no idea how that happened. that looks like a case of a bad barrel cut somehow. I'd call Ruger quick. supressed? |
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Originally Posted By TonyRumore: It's a fairly common problem on big bore AR-15's as well. That's why all Tromix uppers have heavy duty latch springs installed. We also sell the springs separately. Tony Rumore Tromix The spring in my leverage charging handle is 0.25 x 0.878. Will your spring work? |
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I’m still kicking around the idea of SBRing one of these. The one I bought months back has run really well, very accurate with my hunting ammo, and my 10 year old took an 8 point on opening weekend. If I SBRed one, I’d buy a second one. I’m thinking suppressed pig hunting with my thermal. Current pig gun is an SBRed 300 HAMR. Anyone chopped a barrel on one of these? |
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Originally Posted By RegularJoe58: I’m still kicking around the idea of SBRing one of these. The one I bought months back has run really well, very accurate with my hunting ammo, and my 10 year old took an 8 point on opening weekend. If I SBRed one, I’d buy a second one. I’m thinking suppressed pig hunting with my thermal. Current pig gun is an SBRed 300 HAMR. Anyone chopped a barrel on one of these? A 14.7" P&W 6.5CM would be AMAZING! Still supersonic at 1000 yards (if you look up the ballistics). Problem is it's a real project, since the barrel extension is proprietary. So the cost effective $1000 gun, just got a whole lot more Expensive. But maybe worth it. Tony looked into it, but declined (so far!). |
| I'm really curious how short you could go with a factory 20" Creedmoor and get away with it. I know there are shops like Craddock that go all the way down to 14.5" with a rifle gas system for their AR10 barrels. |
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I took my 20” 308 out again. It wants to shoot well. Reliable for sure, bone stock. Just a tiny bit of clearance on the gas block. I tried to make some room in there with my dremel on the hand guard but didn’t get much. Need a longer shank bit or a different hand guard. The Griffin 1x10 is nice for sure. Makes it easy to spot my misses on the steel up there. Same steel I beat up easily with a 5.56 18” gun. Attached File |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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Originally Posted By DVCER: I took my 20” 308 out again. It wants to shoot well. Reliable for sure, bone stock. Just a tiny bit of clearance on the gas block. I tried to make some room in there with my dremel on the hand guard but didn’t get much. Need a longer shank bit or a different hand guard. The Griffin 1x10 is nice for sure. Makes it easy to spot my misses on the steel up there. Same steel I beat up easily with a 5.56 18” gun. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/857/IMG_0799_jpeg-3654141.JPG Get a cable adapter. My dremel kit came with one and it's what l used to get in there. Super handy piece to have.  Quick search shows AutoZone for $15. |
Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob: Get a cable adapter. My dremel kit came with one and it's what l used to get in there. Super handy piece to have. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004758-3654191.jpg Quick search shows AutoZone for $15. I can’t believe I don’t have one of those. Yet. Thank you!  Today’s mission will be handguard hogging. |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
| I think you are on to something. If this charging handle has the extra weight acting as leverage, due to inertia, it could be unlocking each time. The extra recoil of the .308 could be causing, vs a lighter recoiling .556. As you said, it could be unlocking each time, but locking back in the last round doesn’t “ self-correct” by the forward moving bolt. |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: So it seems these can use ar15 barrel nuts if I was going to utilize another rail. How long is the upper receiver? I was thinking a vltor casvm. FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace Originally Posted By lazyengineer: Originally Posted By 03RN: So it seems these can use ar15 barrel nuts if I was going to utilize another rail. How long is the upper receiver? I was thinking a vltor casvm. FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace The 16" rifle is a midlength right? |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: The 16" rifle is a midlength right? Originally Posted By 03RN: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: Originally Posted By 03RN: So it seems these can use ar15 barrel nuts if I was going to utilize another rail. How long is the upper receiver? I was thinking a vltor casvm. FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace The 16" rifle is a midlength right? Yes, and I'd do the same, and try to find a handguard that stops short of the gas-block. It means less real estate, but here's a conventaional AR15 with such a handguard, which I find is just fine, and will host everything I want to host with plenty of hand-space for me, personally. I'm not a fan of the Mannlitchjr style AR stocks personally, but most people are. NOT SFAR, ILLISTRATION OF AN AR15 WITH A HANDGUARD SHORT ENOUGH TO EXPOSE A MIDDY GAS BLOCK  I just prefer the more classic aestheic of the barrel and gas-block exposed like done on the traditional rifle. |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: Yes, and I'd do the same, and try to find a handguard that stops short of the gas-block. It means less real estate, but here's a conventaional AR15 with such a handguard, which I find is just fine, and will host everything I want to host with plenty of hand-space for me, personally. I'm not a fan of the Mannlitchjr style AR stocks personally, but most people are. NOT SFAR, ILLISTRATION OF AN AR15 WITH A HANDGUARD SHORT ENOUGH TO EXPOSE A MIDDY GAS BLOCK https://i.postimg.cc/0yDZ0yRG/20210604_BBA_M4.jpg I just prefer the more classic aestheic of the barrel and gas-block exposed like done on the traditional rifle. Attached File Depending on how it fits the sfar receiver this is the casvm on a 16" mid barrel/standard ar15 Id also use that supressor as well. |
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Be Dangerous
Live Free
Be Dangerous
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer: FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace Originally Posted By lazyengineer: Originally Posted By 03RN: So it seems these can use ar15 barrel nuts if I was going to utilize another rail. How long is the upper receiver? I was thinking a vltor casvm. FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace 12.5" is not too long, it does not cover the gasblock at all on my 20" .308 SFAR, https://griffinarmament.com/shop/low-pro-m-lok-rail-12-5/ Attached File |
The plane flew, admit you're wrong and get over it.
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Originally Posted By Jakezor: 12.5" is not too long, it does not cover the gasblock at all on my 20" .308 SFAR, https://griffinarmament.com/shop/low-pro-m-lok-rail-12-5/ https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/27966/sfar-replaced-rail_png-3661108.JPG Originally Posted By Jakezor: Originally Posted By lazyengineer: Originally Posted By 03RN: So it seems these can use ar15 barrel nuts if I was going to utilize another rail. How long is the upper receiver? I was thinking a vltor casvm. FOR Rifle length, I suggest a 12" handguard. That will keep gas block clear and eliminate a lot of that drama. 12.5" is too long. And shorter starts losing railspace 12.5" is not too long, it does not cover the gasblock at all on my 20" .308 SFAR, https://griffinarmament.com/shop/low-pro-m-lok-rail-12-5/ https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/27966/sfar-replaced-rail_png-3661108.JPG Good to know. Thanks for this. |
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My buddy borrowed my rifle and shot a nice MO buck with it. He shot him at 200 yards and 150 grain handloaded Gold Dots made quick work of him. He thought he heard the impact, which I guess he probably could at 200 yards with the short barrel? Suppressor is a SiCo Scythe, the steel version in the short config. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By buoux: Hello - I have a question that I'd like to pose to the hive. I have an SFAR w/ a 16" barrel in .308. Does anyone have info on the viability of installing an FRT (Rare Breed 15L3) on this rifle? Thanks, Danny While I haven't installed an frt, I have tried installing a Super Selektor. The rear takedown pin is in the way and I assume that will be the issue for anything that would increase the fun factor. |
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Originally Posted By reb0957: Anyone have a 13.375 MI combat rail and riflespeed gas block? Please post pics and what length your RS is! Thanks Attached File Attached File And a KAC 13" rail with a 14.5" mid-gas setup with a 7543 riflespeed. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By RHandel: Has anyone found a buffer spring that works well with their 16.1" rifle? I tried to search but the search hates me tonight so I figured I'd just post a question instead. I tinker quite a bit with my ARs but I've never seen the need to mess with buffer springs. |
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Originally Posted By RHandel: Has anyone found a buffer spring that works well with their 16.1" rifle? I tried to search but the search hates me tonight so I figured I'd just post a question instead. I use standard AR-15 carbine springs in both of my SFAR's, but they are also equipped with custom barrels. Tony |
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My SFAR was over-gassed so I went with a Superlative Arms AGB that I already had since it would work with the factory handguard and I've had good luck with it in the past on the rifle it came off of. It was on a rifle that I changed to a Riflespeed just to have toolless adjustments since its my main rifle. Along with the SA AGB I am running an Odin Works adjustable buffer weight and between the two I'm actually pretty happy with the way its running now. I was reading on some forum and a guy had just got a SFAR and measured his buffer spring and mine was shorter, although the same number of coils. I don't know if in 1000+ rounds my spring has broken down some, or was defaulty from day one but that has kind of bugged me in the back of my mind regardless of the fact the rifle runs well. I just ordered a Tubb Springs AR-10 spring that they said works well with the SFAR, and I've read on a few other forums that guys have changed to that spring as well and liked it. I am the first to agree if someone says there could be a lot of placebo effect going on to justify the cost of spending money on parts and accessories but I figure it wasn't a lot of money and it sure can't hurt having a better spring so I'm good with it. In my opinion based on my own experience Ruger dropped the ball on the AGB and buffer weight they went with for the SFAR, so I don't have a great deal of faith they got the spring right either. Seems to me that the gas block didn't have enough adjustments/or the few they gave us were not the right ones for the rifle to run right. Also the AR-15 buffer weight was way to light for a .308 rifle, so I fear they went with too light of a spring too. I should have it next week and weather willing I'll get out and see if I notice any changes. |
New Ruger SFAR (Small Frame Autoloading rifle) (Page 49 of 51)
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