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New Ruger SFAR (Small Frame Autoloading rifle) (Page 48 of 51)
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On my 16" 308, with a Cat DD suppressor, it would not cycle on 1, but was harsh on 2 with the stock regulator. With the HB Industries: 4 is similar to 2 on the Ruger regulator, 3 feels good, and 2 will cycle but not lock back on an empty mag. I like how not only are there more settings, but they are closer together in a range to appropriately tune the gun for various backpressure suppressors. |
| I've had a SFAR 16" for about a year now. I thought I had all the bugs worked out. Was running great with a 125grn SST load. Started playing with a 155grn load and it started acting overgassed and or not getting cases fully ejected. Replaced the extractor spring and it helped a bit. Tuned the gas so that it just locks the bolt open and it runs but sometimes over runs the next round still. It acts like it's just at the edge of not running right. Thought I had an H3 buffer in it but turned out to be an H2. Replaced that with an H3 and replaced the spring with a Tubbs ar10 flat wire. Hopefully it slows everything down just enough to give me a finer adjustment out of the SA gas block. |
I'm not here because I make sound financial decisions.
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Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Forgot to ask. Have read through this thread and see there are some issues getting the muzzle off. What is the best and easiest way to get it off? Got it off. Not that bad. Put my keymod on it but that nut may be an issue. When I get back home from my camping trip, will head out to the range to see how well it does with the nomad L, provided the nomad locks on. |
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Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Got it off. Not that bad. Put my keymod on it but that nut may be an issue. When I get back home from my camping trip, will head out to the range to see how well it does with the nomad L, provided the nomad locks on. Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Forgot to ask. Have read through this thread and see there are some issues getting the muzzle off. What is the best and easiest way to get it off? Got it off. Not that bad. Put my keymod on it but that nut may be an issue. When I get back home from my camping trip, will head out to the range to see how well it does with the nomad L, provided the nomad locks on. My factory brake came off easy via the jam nut. Once that was loose the brake came right off. Attached File Recently, I took the Griffin linear brake off. That took heat to break loose. |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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Originally Posted By bendigo78: I've had a SFAR 16" for about a year now. I thought I had all the bugs worked out. Was running great with a 125grn SST load. Started playing with a 155grn load and it started acting overgassed and or not getting cases fully ejected. Replaced the extractor spring and it helped a bit. Tuned the gas so that it just locks the bolt open and it runs but sometimes over runs the next round still. It acts like it's just at the edge of not running right. Thought I had an H3 buffer in it but turned out to be an H2. Replaced that with an H3 and replaced the spring with a Tubbs ar10 flat wire. Hopefully it slows everything down just enough to give me a finer adjustment out of the SA gas block. Ran some rounds through the Sfar today. Spring and buffer definately helped. Gas was actually tunable this time out. Only issue was the cheap H3 didn't have sliding weights but was a solid piece and caused the bolt to bounce out of battery. Put the H2 with sliding weights back in when I got home. I think the tubbs ar10 spring helped enough to keep it runing without the extra ounce of buffer but we'll see. |
I'm not here because I make sound financial decisions.
| Finally got to put my nomad L on mine yesterday. Had to take it off due to blasts to the face. WTF. My other AR10's don't do this. Am considering selling mine now. Its a accurate AR with 168 A-max. Was surprised I had a 2 inch drop with the nomad L on it. Do all suppressors generate the blast to the face with the SFAR? I may try my sandman s to see if I still get the blast before deciding on selling it. |
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Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Finally got to put my nomad L on mine yesterday. Had to take it off due to blasts to the face. WTF. My other AR10's don't do this. Am considering selling mine now. Its an accurate AR with 168 A-max. Was surprised I had a 2 inch drop with the nomad L on it. Do all suppressors generate the blast to the face with the SFAR? I may try my sandman s to see if I still get the blast before deciding on selling it. I don’t notice any gas to the face with my 20” SFAR and Sandman S |
No issues with my 20", but I dont fuck with suppressors either. Regardless, having this is always a good idea, to seal the gap around the Charging handle/reciever tail. degrease and run a bead around inner rim of the hand portion of charging handle. Put a touch of grease on the reciever where contact. partially close (but not quiiite) CH, and let silicon cure. tadaa, done, it wont stick to reciever (grease), but now seal that gap,and cut back on AR gas-eye. I do this to most my CH now regardless. |
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Originally Posted By BULLDAWG_556: I don’t notice any gas to the face with my 20” SFAR and Sandman S Originally Posted By BULLDAWG_556: Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Finally got to put my nomad L on mine yesterday. Had to take it off due to blasts to the face. WTF. My other AR10's don't do this. Am considering selling mine now. Its an accurate AR with 168 A-max. Was surprised I had a 2 inch drop with the nomad L on it. Do all suppressors generate the blast to the face with the SFAR? I may try my sandman s to see if I still get the blast before deciding on selling it. I don’t notice any gas to the face with my 20” SFAR and Sandman S Haven't used my nomad on any other AR yet so will now test my sandman s to see if I get the blast. The sandman s works well on my other AR's and bolt actions. Thanks for your information. |
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Took mine back to the range after rebuilding the bolt extractor. In particular, my extractor tension was weak, so I replaced the spring, O-ring, and rubber-post-thingy with such from a standard AR15 bolt repair kit. This increased my bolt tension and the gun ran great for the 135 rounds fired. Pinging gongs out to 1000 yards. The 3rd party HB 5-position adjustable gas plug is OK. For all my ammo, I had to run at Position 4 or 5, for it to reliably run. I would have hoped that Position 3 would be the nominal one, but it's fine - it worked good enough. Had some loads there are just 129 gr spitzer 6.5CM not that hot, so they went transonic on me on the way to the 1000 yard gong, but still did OK. Was interesting that you can hear it "whistling" in flight - I've never experienced that before, so that was new and kind of interesting. |
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Originally Posted By bendigo78: Ran some rounds through the Sfar today. Spring and buffer definately helped. Gas was actually tunable this time out. Only issue was the cheap H3 didn't have sliding weights but was a solid piece and caused the bolt to bounce out of battery. Put the H2 with sliding weights back in when I got home. I think the tubbs ar10 spring helped enough to keep it runing without the extra ounce of buffer but we'll see. Originally Posted By bendigo78: Originally Posted By bendigo78: I've had a SFAR 16" for about a year now. I thought I had all the bugs worked out. Was running great with a 125grn SST load. Started playing with a 155grn load and it started acting overgassed and or not getting cases fully ejected. Replaced the extractor spring and it helped a bit. Tuned the gas so that it just locks the bolt open and it runs but sometimes over runs the next round still. It acts like it's just at the edge of not running right. Thought I had an H3 buffer in it but turned out to be an H2. Replaced that with an H3 and replaced the spring with a Tubbs ar10 flat wire. Hopefully it slows everything down just enough to give me a finer adjustment out of the SA gas block. Ran some rounds through the Sfar today. Spring and buffer definately helped. Gas was actually tunable this time out. Only issue was the cheap H3 didn't have sliding weights but was a solid piece and caused the bolt to bounce out of battery. Put the H2 with sliding weights back in when I got home. I think the tubbs ar10 spring helped enough to keep it runing without the extra ounce of buffer but we'll see. H3 buffer made all the difference. Slowed everything down enough so the gas block actually allows for tuning ejection. No issues with bolt bounce with the sliding weight H3 buffer. The tubbs spring is most likely too strong and probably unnecessary but it's running well suppressed and unsuppressed with 125-168grn loads. One other issue that disappeared with the buffer/spring change was the charging handle was getting unlocked with every shot. Seemed like gas was blowing it open. Very little gas coming back now and recoil is smoother. |
I'm not here because I make sound financial decisions.
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Well guys I have solved my sfar issues, I popped in a h3 buffer I fired over 60 rds today not 1 issue, on factory gas setting 2. The brass every now and then will have raised burrs on the back on the case, but that h3 really did help. No bent rims from extractor issues. That said, I am switching out rails to a 11.5 midwest combat, I also have a rifles-speed gas block sitting on my bench. I may hold off on the gas block swap for now until I get over 200 rds, Im going to throw a can on it and see what happens. |
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I tried to read through the 40 something pages again on the sfar and my understanding is the midwest industries receiver rod fits correct? I dont have an ar 15 receiver rod. Ive got a magpul Bev block and its fits pretty well and measures 0.738. My ar 10 receiver rod is too big. I used a pair of calipers and the bolt(lug to lug) measures 0.737. I want a dewey rod chamber lug cleaning kit, being the receiver is ar 15ish I shouldn't buy the ar 10 1 because the delrin rod sleeve wont fit. I need the ar 15 lug cleaning kit with a 308 chamber brush and mop, or am I wrong?!? |
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I cant remove the jam nut. Prior do doing anything I put kroil on it days before, and again today letting it sit. Im using a 7/8" Crowfoot and a breaker bar. Reading the manual, I turn the jam nut CLOCKWISE to loosen it while facing the muzzle brake, and then counterclockwise to unthread the brake. The only thing Ive managed to do carefully not being pissed off in rage is move both the brake and and the nut to the right. Now I cant get anything to move, I put a little weight on it, and rounded off one of the flats by doing so. Am I correct in my direction, help please. |
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Sounds like you are doing it correctly. Mine was tight as well. I put it on a carpeted floor, wrench on the lock nut. Gave the wrench a few wacks with a dead blow hammer. It came loose. If you are not worried about the muzzle brake, a large screw driver in the mb may keep it from turning. I removed mine years ago so I'm not sure, a wrench may fit on the mb. That could keep it from turning also. You'll get it. |
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Ok folks I got the boomer brake off, and I did so with my mill, carefully drilling holes into the nut. I then actually turned the brake counter clockwise with a wrench and it came off. It was still tough to get off. Looking at it, that jam nut is stuck to the brake, or maybe its a whole unit. I tried to pry it off, it wont budge. Barrel threads are fine, but I nicked the outside of the boomer brake that touched the jam nut. No biggie Im suppressing this anyways, I might pick up another down the road. For the record, I dont know how in the world that thing is supposed to come off, zero carbon on those threads. Clean as a whistle. No locktite on it, it just was torque on there good! Way more than 20-30 in lbs!!! The gas block had the carbon and it cleaned up fine. On to the barrel nut. |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: https://imgur.com/a/YjcoF38  Posted for @country_boy87 |
| Success! Riflespeed has solved a problem, no more raised burrs from the dual ejectors, barely a swipe now. H Buffer, gas setting 10 unsuppressed and suppressed setting 4. Recoil with the can was pleasant, waiting for the Keymo muzzle brake to come in, and waiting for the griffin 1-10 LVPO to be back in stock and waiting for a Thorntail x scout mount to come. |
Houston, we may have a shooter here!   I've never shot such a small group in my life!  100 yds, 3 shots. Vortex Strike Eagle 1x-8x, Leopold base, Geiselle High Speed DMR trigger and the cheapest .308 150gr Federal hunting ammo from Walmart - $25-$26 a box. I've got a couple hundred, but not more than 260, rounds through it at close quarter action drills with a rough enough zero for that. Today was the first time on paper at 100 yards. Point of aim was the center of the red circle. So all l needed was to adjust elevation. Switched to the other target beside it so as not to mess up this keeper.  Can't wait to try some goood stuff! And yes, l had a witness. 
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Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob: Houston, we may have a shooter here! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004503-3595442.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004504-3595443.jpg I've never shot such a small group in my life! 100 yds, 3 shots. Vortex Strike Eagle 1x-8x, Leopold base, Geiselle High Speed DMR trigger and the cheapest .308 150gr Federal hunting ammo from Walmart - $25-$26 a box. I've got a couple hundred, but not more than 260, rounds through it at close quarter action drills with a rough enough zero for that. Today was the first time on paper at 100 yards. Point of aim was the center of the red circle. So all l needed was to adjust elevation. Switched to the other target beside it so as not to mess up this keeper. Can't wait to try some goood stuff! And yes, l had a witness. Nice shooting. Mine loves 168 A Max that I reload. |
| Thank you. Care to share your load? I've got some 168gr and 175gr seconds from Midway recently and once life settles a little bit l want to start loading for this. |
Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob: Houston, we may have a shooter here! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004503-3595442.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004504-3595443.jpg I've never shot such a small group in my life! 100 yds, 3 shots. Vortex Strike Eagle 1x-8x, Leopold base, Geiselle High Speed DMR trigger and the cheapest .308 150gr Federal hunting ammo from Walmart - $25-$26 a box. I've got a couple hundred, but not more than 260, rounds through it at close quarter action drills with a rough enough zero for that. Today was the first time on paper at 100 yards. Point of aim was the center of the red circle. So all l needed was to adjust elevation. Switched to the other target beside it so as not to mess up this keeper. Can't wait to try some goood stuff! And yes, l had a witness. I think I have some of that in stock. If I don’t, I’m buying some. Great shooting. |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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Originally Posted By DVCER: I think I have some of that in stock. If I don’t, I’m buying some. Great shooting. Originally Posted By DVCER: Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob: Houston, we may have a shooter here! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004503-3595442.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/648/1000004504-3595443.jpg I've never shot such a small group in my life! 100 yds, 3 shots. Vortex Strike Eagle 1x-8x, Leopold base, Geiselle High Speed DMR trigger and the cheapest .308 150gr Federal hunting ammo from Walmart - $25-$26 a box. I've got a couple hundred, but not more than 260, rounds through it at close quarter action drills with a rough enough zero for that. Today was the first time on paper at 100 yards. Point of aim was the center of the red circle. So all l needed was to adjust elevation. Switched to the other target beside it so as not to mess up this keeper. Can't wait to try some goood stuff! And yes, l had a witness. I think I have some of that in stock. If I don’t, I’m buying some. Great shooting. Thanks! I think what surprised me the most was that the cheap ammo did that. |
Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
| It would be cool if Ruger would make a rifle the size of a Mini-14, but more like a Garand design that would shoot things like 6.5 Grendel, 5.56, 7.62x39 and other small/intermediate size cartridges. Hopefully such a rifle would overcome the accuracy problems of the Mini-14. |
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Originally Posted By Bearcat24: 42.0 gr of 8208. This is for the 168 A Max Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Originally Posted By Bumblebee_Bob: Thank you. Care to share your load? I've got some 168gr and 175gr seconds from Midway recently and once life settles a little bit l want to start loading for this. 42.0 gr of 8208. This is for the 168 A Max Nice.. thank you. |
Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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Originally Posted By Bearcat24: Your welcome. Still suggest you work up to that. All barrels are different but hope it works out for you. Of course! That's sop.
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Drugs kicked in now, need sleep, radiation tastes funny at 7 am every day... a bit like victory. - Ginger
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Took the SFAR 6.5 Creedmoor out to 1000 yards today. I have about 1800 rounds or so on this gun now. Great gun. A friend got a 16" .308, that I got to shoot. I kind of hated it, the recoil was substantially more. He runs a suppressor, and when that's on, it's an 8 MOA gun. He puts on a different suppressor, it's an 8 MOA gun. We took off the suppressor, and it was a <2MOA gun. Something wrong there - I suspect the shoulder isn't square causing a slightly off-center suppressor, but who knows - don't know (or care for) suppressors. |
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Originally Posted By Cato: Thanks for all the info here! So what is the consenus? Can one buy a SFAR 16" 308 in 2025 without fear of endless troubles? Thanks! Are you seeing a lot of people with endless troubles? |
BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
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Originally Posted By Cato: When they first came out - yes. And now people are modifying them. But without mods - still a recommendation? I bought my 20” when they first came out. A few bobbles in feeding the first couple mags. None since in 250 shots. The factory brake is amazing, less felt recoil and could see the steel on the hits. I took it off for a while and put a linear brake on. It quieted it down some, but definitely did not brake it. My only gripe is the clearance on the factory rail. The GB has tiny clearance, I need to go deeper with Mr Dremel on that. No mods on mine. Attached File |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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Originally Posted By Cato: When they first came out - yes. And now people are modifying them. But without mods - still a recommendation? Donno. My friend's 16" is only a few months old. He complained of accuracy and reliability problems when he first bought it. Buuttt... -Accuracy: appears related to his suppressor issue. I suspect the shoulder on the barrel threads is not square - but I also just made that up. I will say, when we took it off, took off his thermal, and put a cheap scope on it, and shot it, I got a 2 MOA group with cheap ammo. and looked at him and said "THAT. That it what it is supposed to do". Which also cycled 100% I'll also say this, Ruger barrels in general start pretty good, and then get better as they break in. -Reliability: The embarrassing dirty aspect of the SFAR is they don't come polished and the parts all drag. You get suck reliability at first, and have to run overgassed to run, at first. That's still there. But when it comes to reliabity, the real question is: how's the reliabilty after 200 rounds? Why yes, that's crap you have to do a break-in, but then again, it's a next-generation best-rendition-of-AR10 on the planet right now, for <$1000. So yea, some of the polish isn't going to be there. Friend will probably still send it back to Ruger for work, so he can run his suppressors. Which Ruger will do, they have fab customer service - of that there is no debate. Should you buy one now? Yes! If you are not happy with the reliability, keep shooting it. If you are not happy with the accuracy, address the gas-block/handguard topic one way or another. Also, the barrel will get a bit more accurate if you keep shooting it. If you are insisting on a supressor (I don't - not a fan personally); then do that test that makes sure it's super square and concentric. keep an eye on the extractor spring tension. |
New Ruger SFAR (Small Frame Autoloading rifle) (Page 48 of 51)
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