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NSWDG Guns, Clones, and Discussion (Page 88 of 94)
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Originally Posted By M4A1SOPMOD: It was a thing on seal team lol https://www.imfdb.org/images/b/b7/SealTS6E04_06.jpg That MFT mag 
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I finally got my 556 upper built and the M4 2000 wobbles something fierce. I did what the manual said and tightened it with the latch depressed until it wouldn't turn further, then released and backed off until it clicked. There's a bit of rotational play but the side to side is what's concerning. Is this normal? I don't want a baffle strike or terrible POI shift. I checked with an alignment rod and with gentle pressure it doesn't quite touch the rod but it's close. 
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: I finally got my 556 upper built and the M4 2000 wobbles something fierce. I did what the manual said and tightened it with the latch depressed until it wouldn't turn further, then released and backed off until it clicked. There's a bit of rotational play but the side to side is what's concerning. Is this normal? I don't want a baffle strike or terrible POI shift. I checked with an alignment rod and with gentle pressure it doesn't quite touch the rod but it's close. https://i.imgur.com/acOwyP3.jpeg |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: I finally got my 556 upper built and the M4 2000 wobbles something fierce. I did what the manual said and tightened it with the latch depressed until it wouldn't turn further, then released and backed off until it clicked. There's a bit of rotational play but the side to side is what's concerning. Is this normal? I don't want a baffle strike or terrible POI shift. I checked with an alignment rod and with gentle pressure it doesn't quite touch the rod but it's close. https://i.imgur.com/acOwyP3.jpeg I had 4 different flash hider and they all had various amounts of wobble. One being tight. There's different "fixes" one being an o-ring. And funny enough the m42k pics bauer was showing showed an o ring. 
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: I finally got my 556 upper built and the M4 2000 wobbles something fierce. I did what the manual said and tightened it with the latch depressed until it wouldn't turn further, then released and backed off until it clicked. There's a bit of rotational play but the side to side is what's concerning. Is this normal? I don't want a baffle strike or terrible POI shift. I checked with an alignment rod and with gentle pressure it doesn't quite touch the rod but it's close. https://i.imgur.com/acOwyP3.jpeg |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: I finally got my 556 upper built and the M4 2000 wobbles something fierce. I did what the manual said and tightened it with the latch depressed until it wouldn't turn further, then released and backed off until it clicked. There's a bit of rotational play but the side to side is what's concerning. Is this normal? I don't want a baffle strike or terrible POI shift. I checked with an alignment rod and with gentle pressure it doesn't quite touch the rod but it's close. https://i.imgur.com/acOwyP3.jpeg Would need to see a video of this. I've never heard of side to side play w/ an AAC 51T can (I own many). Small amount of rotational is normal, as everyone has already said, it's just the distance between each tooth, and with carbon buildup that largely goes away (but it doesn't matter if it didn't). But side to side is insane. Are you by chance using a flash hider that's new, I.e., made by the "new" AAC? Because I've been hearing they're managing to fuck up everything they try to make of the old stuff in some way shape or form and it wouldn't surprise me at all if the new 51T mounts they released are shit and messed up on the dimensions causing that. But if you're mating an old M42K with an old 51T mount, I've never heard of side to side play. |
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Originally Posted By TinyCrumb: Would need to see a video of this. I've never heard of side to side play w/ an AAC 51T can (I own many). Small amount of rotational is normal, as everyone has already said, it's just the distance between each tooth, and with carbon buildup that largely goes away (but it doesn't matter if it didn't). But side to side is insane. Are you by chance using a flash hider that's new, I.e., made by the "new" AAC? Because I've been hearing they're managing to fuck up everything they try to make of the old stuff in some way shape or form and it wouldn't surprise me at all if the new 51T mounts they released are shit and messed up on the dimensions causing that. But if you're mating an old M42K with an old 51T mount, I've never heard of side to side play. Can absolutely confirm any new AAC stuff concerning muzzle devices is straight garbage, do not buy lol. |
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Originally Posted By TinyCrumb: Would need to see a video of this. I've never heard of side to side play w/ an AAC 51T can (I own many). Small amount of rotational is normal, as everyone has already said, it's just the distance between each tooth, and with carbon buildup that largely goes away (but it doesn't matter if it didn't). But side to side is insane. Are you by chance using a flash hider that's new, I.e., made by the "new" AAC? Because I've been hearing they're managing to fuck up everything they try to make of the old stuff in some way shape or form and it wouldn't surprise me at all if the new 51T mounts they released are shit and messed up on the dimensions causing that. But if you're mating an old M42K with an old 51T mount, I've never heard of side to side play. Mount and can are both new and shipped together from the most recent batch sent to Bauer. I'll take a video when I get home. |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: Mount and can are both new and shipped together from the most recent batch sent to Bauer. I'll take a video when I get home. F Step 1 would be buying an older mount made by the proper AAC and see if that fixes it. Hopefully it’s just their incompetence with the mounts and the can is fine. My hunch is that would do it. If that doesn’t fix it though, then I’d contact them and deal with their CS and see if there’s anyway to get the can fixed. |
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Here's the video This is the only can I have that doesn't feel totally rock solid |
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Originally Posted By india13c: Since when are these supposed to be installed with the latch depressed? I’m looking at the instructions right now and it doesn't say to do that. AAC latches are dog shit. If you let it ride the teeth a lot then it wears down the teeth on the latch and eventually will not grab. |
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Originally Posted By Eyekahn: AAC latches are dog shit. If you let it ride the teeth a lot then it wears down the teeth on the latch and eventually will not grab. So installing it in a manner that is not the actual installation method? I’d like to see him install it the way it says and see if it still does this. It would be one thing to do that all the way to the end so it doesn’t wear out prematurely, but he does that and then loosens it instead of tightening it to actually make it latch. How is that not counterproductive to actually trying to make it tight? |
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Originally Posted By india13c: So installing it in a manner that is not the actual installation method? I'd like to see him install it the way it says and see if it still does this. It would be one thing to do that all the way to the end so it doesn't wear out prematurely, but he does that and then loosens it instead of tightening it to actually make it latch. How is that not counterproductive to actually trying to make it tight? |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: Here's the video This is the only can I have that doesn't feel totally rock solid |
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Originally Posted By Omega9000: How are their suppressors doing? Anyone get a baffle strike or anything like that? I think 2 of my 3 M4-2000s are new AAC. Originally Posted By india13c: Since when are these supposed to be installed with the latch depressed? I'm looking at the instructions right now and it doesn't say to do that.  This would apply to both 51T and 90T mounts for all suppressors. Technically on the original instructions included with their Lawrenceville produced suppressors the part to keep the latch depressed wasn't included, but they did acknowledge the issues and put out the revised installation instructions in 2013 or so. Really the latch wear shouldn't be a huge issue, it's only a problem if you're installing a suppressor every single day for months straight. If you hold down the latch you'll never have any problems with it coming loose |
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Originally Posted By officerX: Is this true? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/335460/IMG_1861-3417853.png Yes. Discussed earlier in this thread if you can find it lol. Dev gas port is .075 I believe. |
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Originally Posted By india13c: So installing it in a manner that is not the actual installation method? I’d like to see him install it the way it says and see if it still does this. It would be one thing to do that all the way to the end so it doesn’t wear out prematurely, but he does that and then loosens it instead of tightening it to actually make it latch. How is that not counterproductive to actually trying to make it tight? Like Jon said. It won't change anything. It's just putting less wear on the latch which will fail. OG AAC used to warranty the latch failure. They did mine like 3 times as I used to run it on 3 different uppers all the time. Hell even my pin that holds the latch in fell out once while shooting. Luckily I was doing drilling and when I brought the gun up something felt really loose and weird so I never flicked off the safety and sure enough the latch and pin were gone. I believe the old fix for the wobble and rocking between teeth was to sand the back of the thread on the muzzle device down a hair so it barely reaches the next tooth and stays as tight as possible. |
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Originally Posted By officerX: Is this true? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/335460/IMG_1861-3417853.png Originally Posted By officerX: Is this true? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/335460/IMG_1861-3417853.png Yes Noveske decided to only sell the Pamela Anderson sized port barrel to make sure bottom grade 5.56 can cycle out of $2k+ guns and did a limited run of the correct Navy barrels Originally Posted By india13c: So installing it in a manner that is not the actual installation method? I’d like to see him install it the way it says and see if it still does this. It would be one thing to do that all the way to the end so it doesn’t wear out prematurely, but he does that and then loosens it instead of tightening it to actually make it latch. How is that not counterproductive to actually trying to make it tight? I didn't loosen it. The last tooth can't engage because it can't be turned any further. There are some possible fixes for this that involve dremeling the 51T. However what I did is in the manual that comes with the can. Originally Posted By LsuJon: For what it's worth I can replicate that with both my Old AAC m4-2000 and my new FDE m4-2000. Yeah I've seen others talking about it on posts from years past. Most important is I don't want it ruining the accuracy, I assume a baffle strike would be covered under warranty but idk if it would still be an M4-2K or rebuilt, at any rate I emailed AAC. |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: Here's the video This is the only can I have that doesn't feel totally rock solid Mine from bauer does this differing amounts across 4 different mounts, 1 of them has zero play though I think. 2 were new purchased through midway, one came with the can, another is an old one I picked up. Can't remember which is the tight one, the next tightest in line is one of the new from midway. I haven't put mics to em but I think the surface between the tines and the thread is what would cause or prevent wobble depending on its diameter. |
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| Okay AAC said the 51T is designed to do that to eliminate carbon lock lol. I think I will get an O Ring to keep it centered and put some rounds down to carbon it up. The O-Ring specs allegedly are 020 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Black, 7/8" ID, 1" OD, 1/16" Width. Temp range up to 450F. |
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Originally Posted By Eyekahn: I believe the old fix for the wobble and rocking between teeth was to sand the back of the thread on the muzzle device down a hair so it barely reaches the next tooth and stays as tight as possible. I've done this on several 51t hiders. Both 1/2x28 and 5/8x24. Bought a 5.56 muzzle threading assist tool, chucked it in a drill, and stoned the taper until the can just barely went to the next notch and locked down. Cleared up a lot of wobble, created a better seal on the taper, and cleaned up a little of the accuracy loss. These are the tools I used:  
I recommend stones as they break the nitride better, hold a flat aurface better, and different grits can get a nice polish at the end of the process. |
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Originally Posted By thatARMSguy: The cerakoting process would get rid of the B-Line laser engraving, right? Or at least cover it up well enough that you wouldn't see? Just to follow up on this, just got the receiver and rail back from PSD. No, the cerakote doesn’t cover the BLine marking. It looks just like it did, just cerakoted. Can’t wait to get this 5.56 done to match the 300blk upper! |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: So what's the word on these? I've seen no other evidence Dev is using them but most pics seem to have training cans. I appreciate AAC for releasing all this stuff that they said they wouldn't although I legit can't afford it lol. https://i.imgur.com/ag98cvR.jpeg |
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Originally Posted By medieval_flail: So what's the word on these? I've seen no other evidence Dev is using them but most pics seem to have training cans. I appreciate AAC for releasing all this stuff that they said they wouldn't although I legit can't afford it lol. https://i.imgur.com/ag98cvR.jpeg |
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: Love this thing .makes me forget about all the recces I've put together .. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54246436966_0463ab6083_b.jpg I'm surprised your can still has the finish on it 
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: It's a Noveske NSD-N4-15. That particular upper is going to be a 1 for 1 clone. I need to get a T2, ngal w/ vis override pressure switch, and a new sling mount for it. Originally Posted By LsuJon: Originally Posted By doyouquaxu: I know you posted or talked about it somewhere, but whats the handguard on the middle one? Hello, I have been lurking on this topic for quite some time, and finally managed to have ARF accept my email.  Just one question for LsuJon: Those rifles setup with the NSR-SD handguard, were they part of a test and never got adopted? Was the length tested only 15 inches or did they try the 11 inches? Noveske had the NSR-SD in 11 and 15 inches commercially available, if I am not mistaken. Or are we talking about a whole other handguard model, made specifically for NSW or other cool kids? Thank you all anyway, this thread is a gold mine or modern guns enthusiats. 
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: Love this thing….makes me forget about all the recces I’ve put together….. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54246436966_0463ab6083_b.jpg Is this just a G$ Super Duty upper? 16 or 14.5”? |
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Originally Posted By Ur77Meteorit2: Hello, I have been lurking on this topic for quite some time, and finally managed to have ARF accept my email. Just one question for LsuJon: Those rifles setup with the NSR-SD handguard, were they part of a test and never got adopted? Was the length tested only 15 inches or did they try the 11 inches? Noveske had the NSR-SD in 11 and 15 inches commercially available, if I am not mistaken. Or are we talking about a whole other handguard model, made specifically for NSW or other cool kids? Thank you all anyway, this thread is a gold mine or modern guns enthusiats. |
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Originally Posted By waddlingweezol: Thanks, I’ll look again The hardest part is getting the rail without the qd inserts. I ran a newer rail with inserts until I could source the correct rail. A minor detail IMO...the qd inserted rails looked good to me as well. |
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Originally Posted By JohnnyUtah427: The hardest part is getting the rail without the qd inserts. I ran a newer rail with inserts until I could source the correct rail. A minor detail IMO...the qd inserted rails looked good to me as well. And also the receiver with the stamped G and square forge mark. |
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: The rifle setup with the NSR-SD handgaurd is the only one that I am personally aware of. It could've been a private purchase rail or there could have been more at the unit for testing/ individual options. Originally Posted By LsuJon: Originally Posted By Ur77Meteorit2: Hello, I have been lurking on this topic for quite some time, and finally managed to have ARF accept my email. Just one question for LsuJon: Those rifles setup with the NSR-SD handguard, were they part of a test and never got adopted? Was the length tested only 15 inches or did they try the 11 inches? Noveske had the NSR-SD in 11 and 15 inches commercially available, if I am not mistaken. Or are we talking about a whole other handguard model, made specifically for NSW or other cool kids? Thank you all anyway, this thread is a gold mine or modern guns enthusiats. Any picture floating around or that you could share. Legitimately interested in what the setup looked like. And thanks again for the reply. |
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That's not it and is not an NSR-SD. That rifle shouldn't have been posted.
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Originally Posted By Ur77Meteorit2: Any picture floating around or that you could share. Legitimately interested in what the setup looked like. And thanks again for the reply.
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Originally Posted By thatARMSguy: Which one is that one then? I swear I got it in this thread somewhere  The rifle has been seen before but the pictures (different from that one) have been pulled per Noveske's request. |
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That some sort of ambi lower. Looks similar to a Rainier lower I have. |
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Originally Posted By LsuJon: That was posted on Twitter by someone who attended an event at 10th group then reposted to IG. I don't know what it is, but it's apparently some secret squirrel stuff novekse is working on. The rifle has been seen before but the pictures (different from that one) have been pulled per Noveske's request. This makes me want to find it now |
  
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Originally Posted By M4A1SOPMOD: https://i.imgur.com/NwbESu8.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/fNxDIbL.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/IRyV8li.jpeg *posts them anyway*  Anyway to get back on topic still waiting for my upper to get back to me. It's been in my cities processing center for 3 days now  Attached File |
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NSWDG Guns, Clones, and Discussion (Page 88 of 94)
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