Muzzle brake unscrewing

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Muzzle brake unscrewing

Posted: 1/6/2020 6:52:02 PM EDT

I just went out and played with my Sandman S for the first time. I paid a gunsmith to resurface and time the dead air brake so I wouldn't have to shim it. After 3 mags I went to detach the can and noticed the brake had already started unscrewing. When I asked him how to keep it on there he said don't shoot so fast or shim it.

I paid and waited a couple weeks to not have to put the shim on... Is there any way to keep this brake on besides shimming or shooting like a snail?

Anyone know if I can throw a small Flux core tack weld on the brake to the Mil-Spec per MIL-B-11595E barrel? I hate the idea of permanently welding the brake on, but shooting slower isn't going to happen and throwing a shim on completely wastes what I paid for to not have.

Posted: 1/6/2020 6:55:29 PM EDT

[#1]

shims,, get it clocked the way you want it,,

Locktight it!!!!!!

GLUE!!!! ya it works,,

Posted: 1/6/2020 6:57:12 PM EDT

[#2]

I believe he did Loctite/Rockset it. He said the heat will keep melting it off.

Are there shims that aren't stainless and wont stick way out on my barrel? That's why I avoided them in the first place. The dead air ones protruded a lot above the barrel/brake.

Posted: 1/6/2020 7:13:12 PM EDT

[#3]

I did Gorilla Glue once as it was what I had,, it worked,,tooooo

yes heat,, will make it soften up,,,

Posted: 1/6/2020 8:02:40 PM EDT

[#4]

I just looked up Rockset and see it has a 2000° strength rating. If I dumped three mags even on full auto would it get that hot? Or did this guy forget to Rockset it like he said he had ?

Posted: 1/6/2020 8:06:05 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
I just looked up Rockset and see it has a 2000° strength rating. If I dumped three mags even on full auto would it get that hot? Or did this guy forget to Rockset it like he said he had ?

View Quote

He may have used Loctite which has a lower release temp.

Posted: 1/6/2020 8:06:42 PM EDT

[#6]

Rockset usually works and holds against the heat, but you’ve got to let it harden for 24 hours. Also, you likely need to put some torque on the muzzle brake, not just screw it finger tight and glue it. If you’re only going to do that, you might as well drill and pin it.

Posted: 1/6/2020 8:46:15 PM EDT

[#7]

So if I do it myself and torque it properly I shouldn’t have to worry about the Rockset coming loose unless I get it cherry red? New to suppressors, not sure what temperatures average with “rapid fire.”

Posted: 1/6/2020 8:50:02 PM EDT

[#8]

Shims and apply rocksett. GS prob didnt apply shit.

Torque the fucker

Posted: 1/6/2020 9:12:04 PM EDT

[#9]

If it’s properly torqued, you don’t even need Rockset. I’d be worried about how your GS shaved down your brake to get it to time without shims. I’m not sure that I’d trust any of my local GSs to do it with the right precision.

Posted: 1/6/2020 9:26:44 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
If it’s properly torqued, you don’t even need Rockset. I’d be worried about how your GS shaved down your brake to get it to time without shims. I’m not sure that I’d trust any of my local GSs to do it with the right precision.

View Quote

I'm thinking he shaved down the barrel.

Anyway. Yea.... I'm guessing he shaved too much to the point where it wouldnt time correctly with the right torque. As others have said, if you torque it down right you may not even need rockset. Although I would use it anyway. Put a dab of rockset on the threads and in the MD, use a barrel lug wrench in a vise and put a good 40 - 50 ftlbs of tight on that sumbitch. Im guessing you'll need shims. Then wait 2 full days b4 you shoot it.

This is exactly why I think it's better to invest in tools instead of paying to have work done. You just paid joe blow the cost of a reaction rod to basically sand down the barrel / md

Posted: 1/6/2020 9:41:56 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:

I'm thinking he shaved down the barrel.

Anyway. Yea.... I'm guessing he shaved too much to the point where it wouldnt time correctly with the right torque. As others have said, if you torque it down right you may not even need rockset. Although I would use it anyway. Put a dab of rockset on the threads and in the MD, use a barrel lug wrench in a vise and put a good 40 - 50 ftlbs of tight on that sumbitch. Im guessing you'll need shims. Then wait 2 full days b4 you shoot it.

This is exactly why I think it's better to invest in tools instead of paying to have work done. You just paid joe blow the cost of a reaction rod to basically sand down the barrel / md

View Quote

That’s really disappointing but a good lesson. This is the only thing besides cerakoting that I’ve ever paid someone else to do and not done myself.
The shims included were horrible on my barrels. They stuck way out. I figured paying someone to “do it right” was worth it. I could have shimmed and torqued it myself but I really didn’t want a big shiny shim sticking out. I guess I could sand the shim down to try and get it flush with the barrel.

This happened on my AR but now I’m worried about what’s going to happen to my precision rifle I had him resurface....

From the replies it sounds like welding isn’t a great idea, or at least unecesary.

Posted: 1/7/2020 12:04:58 AM EDT

[#12]

Just a word of advice, but don't put too much toque on the muzzle device, or your going to distort the last inch of barrel (where the threads are).

So if Muzzle device was faced correctly, it should hand tighten to about 11:45 on the barrel, leaving just that little amount that the device needs to be wrenched with rocksett used. Also make sure to use acetone on both the barrel and nut device to remove any lubes from the two before hand, apply the rocksett to the both threads, then install and wrench index it the last of the way needed.

From here, just give a day for the rocksett to set up, and Bob's your uncle.

Posted: 1/8/2020 5:29:04 AM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
I just looked up Rockset and see it has a 2000° strength rating. If I dumped three mags even on full auto would it get that hot? Or did this guy forget to Rockset it like he said he had ?

View Quote

He either didn’t use Rocksett, didn’t properly prep the surfaces before application, or didn’t use enough torque when installing the muzzle device. As with any threadlocker, you need to thoroughly degrease all threads before application and torque.

Posted: 1/8/2020 5:30:10 AM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
So if I do it myself and torque it properly I shouldn’t have to worry about the Rockset coming loose unless I get it cherry red? New to suppressors, not sure what temperatures average with “rapid fire.”

View Quote

Even with a cherry red suppressor, the mount isn’t going to get that hot. You’d have to do a lot to get the barrel/mount anywhere close to 2000* F.

Posted: 1/9/2020 1:02:36 PM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:

Even with a cherry red suppressor, the mount isn’t going to get that hot. You’d have to do a lot to get the barrel/mount anywhere close to 2000* F.

View Quote

Thanks for the replies. I think you’re right. He redid it and after slamming 150 rounds through it and getting it super hot it didn’t budge.

Posted: 1/13/2020 4:11:10 AM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
Just a word of advice, but don't put too much toque on the muzzle device, or your going to distort the last inch of barrel (where the threads are).

So if Muzzle device was faced correctly, it should hand tighten to about 11:45 on the barrel, leaving just that little amount that the device needs to be wrenched with rocksett used. Also make sure to use acetone on both the barrel and nut device to remove any lubes from the two before hand, apply the rocksett to the both threads, then install and wrench index it the last of the way needed.

From here, just give a day for the rocksett to set up, and Bob's your uncle.

View Quote

I had a President’s 100 Army GSM tell me “finger tight red lock tight “ for breaks and hiders

I may of gotten his Army title wrong....forgive me but his words I remember

H

Posted: 1/18/2020 8:29:50 PM EDT

[#17]

Back before the ban, when the DCM rigs has to wear a FS, it was only installed hand tight, and then re-hand tighten before the next string cleaning. Way, way back before the Ar's, you just overbored the M-14 FS, and did the loctite trick so you did not have to use a lot of torque on the FS castle bolt instead.

Reason begin that, you did not want to distort the last inch's of the bore with too much torque used, and you want to be able to remove the FS on the AR's between string cleanings to keep the crown of the barrel clean as well (didn't matter on the M-14, since the FS's was so over bored, you can dam near get a bullet down it sideways instead).

When the ban hit, no more FS were required on the DCM rigs, and resolved both of above problems one stroke isntead.

Posted: 1/25/2020 2:28:23 AM EDT

[#18]

I know what you mean about the shims outside diameters being much larger than the barrel, muzzle device, etc.

FYI the shim kit made by surefire is what you want. I have 2 sets in both .223 & .308. The OD of their shims is smaller than my barrel & m/ds.

FYI depending on your barrel, like my .308 18", i couldn't use the shims because there is a good 1/8 inch of material between the barrel OD and where the threads begin. I have to use a jam nut. There again, I found a seller on eBay. The jam nut is super skinny and then the outside diameter is still smaller than the barrel & muzzle brake. Let me know if you need links

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Muzzle brake unscrewing

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