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Posted: 12/3/2018 8:07:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@GlutealCleft any particular type/brand of synthetic ATF you recommend? |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 2:13:47 AM EDT
[#2]
Mobile 1 5w 30 full synthetic with a reasonable helping of Walmart brand high temp multi duty grease for the BCG.
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Posted: 12/4/2018 2:28:11 AM EDT
[#3]
I keep Mobil 1 0w30 on hand for the AMG's oil changes and use it on all the guns. I probably shoot 3000+ rds per week and the Mobil 1 does the best job I've found. I use automotive grease (redline super tacky) on suppressor booster housings and barrel nuts threads as well.
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Posted: 12/4/2018 8:23:32 AM EDT
[#4]
Saw this post and made me think about the chainsaw bar oil I have. It has sticky ingredient in it. I might try this and see how it well it works. Gonna google this to see if others have used this oil.
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Posted: 12/4/2018 8:44:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Makes sense, Militec was originally intended to be a chainsaw oil IIRC
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Posted: 12/13/2018 11:27:54 PM EDT
[#6]
I've got Euro-spec 0-40 Mobil 1 strewn about all my range cases and bags in these: fifty cents each.
Some straight M1, some mixed with Mobil 1 synthetic grease until it's somewhere between the two, which seems to work well for the BCG and pistol rails. Larry |
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Posted: 1/27/2019 9:42:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Mobil 1 full synthetic. Used it for years, never hand any problems. I've switched to cherry balmz, the stuff is simply better. |
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Posted: 1/27/2019 9:21:18 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I keep Mobil 1 0w30 on hand for the AMG's oil changes and use it on all the guns. I probably shoot 3000+ rds per week and the Mobil 1 does the best job I've found. I use automotive grease (redline super tacky) on suppressor booster housings and barrel nuts threads as well. SHIT. 
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Posted: 1/27/2019 11:22:01 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
HOLY. SHIT. |
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Posted: 1/31/2019 1:25:03 AM EDT
[#10]
Engine oil is carcinogenic when it burns. Used engine oil is carcinogenic to touch, and when it burns.
I don't get it. I used to love engine oil when I didn't shoot much. Now that I shoot 500-1000 rounds on a range trip I hate it. Mobile 1, Castrol, 10W, 5W, don't matter. They all burn and smell like fuck. It's properties impressed me when I used CLP. Now that I use good lubricants it's not even that good. Buy a $20 bottle of EWL. It's not expensive, will last a long time, and doesn't blow cancerous burning dinosaur ass in your face. |
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Posted: 1/31/2019 2:12:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Engine oil is carcinogenic when it burns. Used engine oil is carcinogenic to touch, and when it burns. I don't get it. I used to love engine oil when I didn't shoot much. Now that I shoot 500-1000 rounds on a range trip I hate it. Mobile 1, Castrol, 10W, 5W, don't matter. They all burn and smell like fuck. It's properties impressed me when I used CLP. Now that I use good lubricants it's not even that good. Buy a $20 bottle of EWL. It's not expensive, will last a long time, and doesn't blow cancerous burning dinosaur ass in your face. And if you really think that a rifle is heating up Mobil 1 to the point that it is going to give you cancer.... "I'll take my chances....cause I'm pretty sure, of all the things in this life, trying to take me down, that one is not it. 
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Posted: 1/31/2019 7:59:22 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You keep buying EWL.. I'm still on a half a quart of Mobil 1 from 3 years ago... And if you really think that a rifle is heating up Mobil 1 to the point that it is going to give you cancer.... "I'll take my chances....cause I'm pretty sure, of all the things in this life, trying to take me down, that one is not it. |
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Posted: 1/31/2019 8:57:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You keep buying EWL.. I'm still on a half a quart of Mobil 1 from 3 years ago... And if you really think that a rifle is heating up Mobil 1 to the point that it is going to give you cancer.... "I'll take my chances....cause I'm pretty sure, of all the things in this life, trying to take me down, that one is not it. Not even mag dumps, just run a couple hundred rounds suppressed with engine oil. Unless you like the smell of burning oil and inhaling benzene, you will see the light. |
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Posted: 2/1/2019 11:28:17 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was thinking the same thing when I read his response. I always get a chuckle at folks that run down CLP. Ran it almost exclusively for 32 years and never had a failure, to include many, many, many thousands of rounds of belt fed ammo and though every clime and place you could take a gun. Been running the Rotella now for a few ran sessions and have yet to have any burn off or stink. CLP is even good for cologne, the chicks dig it. |
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Posted: 2/1/2019 5:19:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Have you guys seen the "Cold Weather Lube" thread? Good stuff.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Cold-weather-lubricant-experiment/7-736457/ One of the poster did a YouTube video where he set a bunch of lubes out in the cold; -22. Regular CLP, Rem Oil, and one other did pretty well. The Slip 2000 EWL didn't do so well. In fact it was pretty much a solid, and in the words of the poster, "Fail". Check it out. https://youtu.be/ZYkJiHXWt3s |
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Posted: 2/1/2019 5:21:54 PM EDT
[#16]
Another 500 rds of nuclear loads down this morning through a suppressed DI 10mm AR, and 120 suppressed though one of the Grendels for load development. Both lubed with Mobil 1 0w30 with no issues, no smoke, no stink.
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Posted: 2/2/2019 7:46:30 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Engine oil is carcinogenic when it burns. Used engine oil is carcinogenic to touch, and when it burns. I don't get it. I used to love engine oil when I didn't shoot much. Now that I shoot 500-1000 rounds on a range trip I hate it. Mobile 1, Castrol, 10W, 5W, don't matter. They all burn and smell like fuck. It's properties impressed me when I used CLP. Now that I use good lubricants it's not even that good. Buy a $20 bottle of EWL. It's not expensive, will last a long time, and doesn't blow cancerous burning dinosaur ass in your face. |
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Posted: 2/2/2019 8:25:33 PM EDT
[#18]
I hate these threads. Don’t use motor oil let alone alone used motor oil. Used motor oil has carcinogens. Read safety data sheets
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Posted: 2/2/2019 8:58:54 PM EDT
[#19]
lol I use most oils, mobil 1 0w20, clp, 10w30, rem oil, tetra grease, hell I've use air tool oil
Thinner stuff when it's cold thicker stuff when it's hot |
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Posted: 2/2/2019 9:00:56 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As someone in the Lubricants industry for a major international oil company, I hate these threads. Don’t use motor oil let alone alone used motor oil. Used motor oil has carcinogens. Read safety data sheets
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Posted: 2/2/2019 9:08:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40
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Posted: 2/8/2019 5:31:15 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Engine oil breaks down and loses viscosity at 200-300 degrees, and burns rapidly at 350-400. That's equivalent to the BCG a couple hundred rounds in tandem semiauto fire. I didn't switch so I could be a snob about it on the internet. I switched because I got sick of the shit burning away and smelling like fuck. Modern gun lubricants will double those numbers, or more. They also won't release carcinogens or toxic chemicals in the process. Not even mag dumps, just run a couple hundred rounds suppressed with engine oil. Unless you like the smell of burning oil and inhaling benzene, you will see the light. not sure what up with your nose but i never smell anything from using mobil 1. its also the only lube that doesnt cook off with suppressor use. |
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Posted: 2/21/2019 10:56:23 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Engine oil is carcinogenic when it burns. Used engine oil is carcinogenic to touch, and when it burns. I don't get it. I used to love engine oil when I didn't shoot much. Now that I shoot 500-1000 rounds on a range trip I hate it. Mobile 1, Castrol, 10W, 5W, don't matter. They all burn and smell like fuck. It's properties impressed me when I used CLP. Now that I use good lubricants it's not even that good. Buy a $20 bottle of EWL. It's not expensive, will last a long time, and doesn't blow cancerous burning dinosaur ass in your face. I bet the 4 or 5 drops of oil I may smoke off really is not what is going to kill me. Best lube IMO... Harbor Freight "Super lube" (real thin layer) on all the shiny places. Then... Mobil 1 full synthetic on top - thicker stuff. Don't need to add any other crap in. Does not need to be super wet like CLP, because it will stick around. Talk about one slickery bolt!!! Best cleaner IMO... 1/3 mineral ATF, 2/3 odorless mineral spirits. Little shot of Kroil. Forget acetone, that stuff smells like hell, and I dont have a plastic build up problem in my rifle. Stuff is stupid cheap to mix. I have heard the whining that a small bottle of CPL is the right thing to use, and will last a long time. Screw that, I like to dump cleaner on and scrub with an old toothbrush.... I go thru a lot of my cleaner. Cuts carbon and crap good and fast, works better than store bought CLP. Smell is not that bad. A rag and compressed air gets most off. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving a thin layer of ATF for rust protection. |
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Posted: 2/22/2019 11:41:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Ed’s Red!! I say!! I gargle with it and shave the hair on my balls with a Weed Whacker!!
I regress a bit but findAll this amusing. Sleep well with what you use... it’s ALL been tried. Smell Hell! If smell made a diff your ladies would of snuffed out #9 a 100 yrs ago!! Post Something Completely new for us ALL to chew on. We’d all enjoy the late winter read H |
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Posted: 2/26/2019 11:51:13 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: pretty sure an AR15 BCG or bolt doesnt get anywhere near that hot. not sure what up with your nose but i never smell anything from using mobil 1. its also the only lube that doesnt cook off with suppressor use. How come others can cook engine oil but you don't, might be the real question. A typical range trip for me is about 600 rounds, majority of it high firing schedule but not just blasting aimlessly. When I used to shoot slow pace and only a couple hundred, engine oil was fine. I didn't change just based on theory. |
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Posted: 2/26/2019 11:55:45 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most gun oils are mineral - so they would also be carcinogenic when they burn. Does anyone know of the burning lead from the back bullets being fired is bad, or the lead and mercury from the primers is safe????? How about following the old truck that burns more engine oil than gas??? Or how about diesel trucks with the black smoke clouds??? I bet the 4 or 5 drops of oil I may smoke off really is not what is going to kill me. Best lube IMO... Harbor Freight "Super lube" (real thin layer) on all the shiny places. Then... Mobil 1 full synthetic on top - thicker stuff. Don't need to add any other crap in. Does not need to be super wet like CLP, because it will stick around. Talk about one slickery bolt!!! Best cleaner IMO... 1/3 mineral ATF, 2/3 odorless mineral spirits. Little shot of Kroil. Forget acetone, that stuff smells like hell, and I dont have a plastic build up problem in my rifle. Stuff is stupid cheap to mix. I have heard the whining that a small bottle of CPL is the right thing to use, and will last a long time. Screw that, I like to dump cleaner on and scrub with an old toothbrush.... I go thru a lot of my cleaner. Cuts carbon and crap good and fast, works better than store bought CLP. Smell is not that bad. A rag and compressed air gets most off. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving a thin layer of ATF for rust protection. |
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Posted: 2/26/2019 10:05:32 PM EDT
[#27]
Ed's red is good shit to clean. I've been using it ( kerosene, mineral spirits and trans fluid...no acetone) for over 20 years.
Synthetic motor oil works great for lube. |
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Posted: 5/20/2019 4:38:52 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Amsoil Signature 0w20 I still think my Amsoil works great, but we did a lot of suppressed shooting on Friday, and got the rifles and cans piping hot. Man, that stuff was nasty when it was burning off 
I brought EWL and MPro 7 along, and it didn't make our lungs burn at all when it began to cook off, and it seemed to last a tad longer. Just a thought. Granted, the carcinogen level of a few drops of synthetic engine oil couldn't be that damn bad, but sure did make us gag for a second
I have plenty of Lucas Extreme, MPro, EWL, and Machine Gun lube to last for quite some time. I think I will burn through that, and see what I think. I have another can in jail, so this is going to be even more common for me. |
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Posted: 5/21/2019 7:49:27 AM EDT
[#29]
I use Mobil 1 in most of my regularly driven vehicles. There is always a little left in the bottles/jugs after they sit for a few days following an oil/filter changes. That gets drained into a single 1 qt. bottle that never seems to get full, and never seems to go empty. I supply oil to both my sons and my nephew.
Been using mostly Mobil 1 (and some very old 3n1 oil from earlier days/training) for about 12 years now. No issues when used as a lube. No function issues. No rust issues. I use Hoppes#9 for cleaning most of the time. I do use some black powder cleaners for cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo (5.45X39 and some old .308 S&B made with corrosive primers, for some silly reason). |
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Posted: 5/27/2019 10:56:40 AM EDT
[#30]
I used Castrol BMW Motorsports 10w60 for quite a while and it always worked great.
I now use ALG VTG exclusively. |
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Posted: 5/27/2019 3:39:56 PM EDT
[#31]
I read that engine oil boils at 550 F. Is it really possible that you are getting the oil in your AR that hot?
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Posted: 8/11/2019 5:15:26 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Never noticed my safe stinking. Sometimes motor oil migrates after prolonged storage. Not to drift thread, but I’m leaning more and more to greases due to this. |
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Posted: 8/11/2019 6:52:39 PM EDT
[#33]
Mobil 1 full synthetic, works great! All I ever use.
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Posted: 8/11/2019 6:56:02 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Full synthetic |
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Posted: 9/6/2019 11:22:25 AM EDT
[#35]
I have a bottle of synthetic motor oil on my bench if I ever want to use it, but ever since my cans started coming in, I try to stick with oils that may not harm me if they blast in my face and eyes. Ballistol, for instance.
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Posted: 9/6/2019 11:35:31 AM EDT
[#36]
I too use a quart of Mobil 1 5w30 that is about 2/3rds still full, and I've been using it for several years now.
I guess the heating and benzene/fumes issue might be real, but I don't do mag dumps nor do I use Mobil 1 in my cans. For my cans, I use DOT5 silicone brake fluid/oil. I get the baffles clean, then hot in a 350 deg. oven then dunk them in the oil, and drain off the excess into paper towels. That stuff is AMAZING for preventing carbon buildup. I forgot to clean one of my Gemtech multimount adapters, and just the trace of silicone oil that flowed onto it from the rest of the can, made the carbon in the titanium blast chamber lift right off with a paper towel. And before learning about the silicone oil trick, I had cleaned the suppressor's parts with hours of work using a dental pick, and wet tumbling the K baffles with water, dish soap, and stainless steel media pins. It's too thin for moving gun parts IMO, and hell on everything else though. Shit will creep everywhere.
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Posted: 9/6/2019 5:28:56 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only place in an AR bolt carrier group where the use of grease is really "justified" is a thin application on the cam pin. Outside of that, it's really best to stick with some sort of oil for lube. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Never noticed my safe stinking. Sometimes motor oil migrates after prolonged storage. Not to drift thread, but I’m leaning more and more to greases due to this. |
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Posted: 9/7/2019 5:57:36 AM EDT
[#38]
I use Mobil 1.
I use that in all my vehicles except for a couple older Camaros with oil leaks. The left over in the plastic jugs/bottles is allowed to settle to one corner over a period of a week or so and then transferred to a 1 qt. bottle used just for dispensing oil to the small GI squeeze bottles. I supply oil to my sons and nephew and we don't run out. Doesn't really take much to keep a rifle/pistol running. Oh, been doing that for 14 or 15 years now. |
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Posted: 9/7/2019 7:49:49 AM EDT
[#39]
Mobil 1 full synthetic.
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Posted: 9/7/2019 12:14:14 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As someone in the Lubricants industry for a major international oil company, I hate these threads. Don’t use motor oil let alone alone used motor oil. Used motor oil has carcinogens. Read safety data sheets |
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Posted: 9/9/2019 7:33:56 AM EDT
[#41]
My understanding is that you're much better off with a good synthetic ATF than motor oil.
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Posted: 9/9/2019 7:45:15 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Full synthetic Synthetic GL-2 Grease on handguns |
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Posted: 9/9/2019 7:58:41 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As someone in the Lubricants industry for a major international oil company, I hate these threads. Don’t use motor oil let alone alone used motor oil. Used motor oil has carcinogens. Read safety data sheets What is the difference? What makes it carginogenic? |
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Posted: 9/9/2019 8:08:21 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gun lubes don't contain or release benzene. Engine oil does. When you smell that truck burning oil, it's much less exposure compared to when you're getting oil on you and inhaling the smoke from inches away. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Most gun oils are mineral - so they would also be carcinogenic when they burn. Does anyone know of the burning lead from the back bullets being fired is bad, or the lead and mercury from the primers is safe????? How about following the old truck that burns more engine oil than gas??? Or how about diesel trucks with the black smoke clouds??? I bet the 4 or 5 drops of oil I may smoke off really is not what is going to kill me. Best lube IMO... Harbor Freight "Super lube" (real thin layer) on all the shiny places. Then... Mobil 1 full synthetic on top - thicker stuff. Don't need to add any other crap in. Does not need to be super wet like CLP, because it will stick around. Talk about one slickery bolt!!! Best cleaner IMO... 1/3 mineral ATF, 2/3 odorless mineral spirits. Little shot of Kroil. Forget acetone, that stuff smells like hell, and I dont have a plastic build up problem in my rifle. Stuff is stupid cheap to mix. I have heard the whining that a small bottle of CPL is the right thing to use, and will last a long time. Screw that, I like to dump cleaner on and scrub with an old toothbrush.... I go thru a lot of my cleaner. Cuts carbon and crap good and fast, works better than store bought CLP. Smell is not that bad. A rag and compressed air gets most off. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving a thin layer of ATF for rust protection. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/2612787/ |
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Posted: 9/9/2019 9:43:00 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Engine oil is carcinogenic when it burns. Used engine oil is carcinogenic to touch, and when it burns. I don't get it. I used to love engine oil when I didn't shoot much. Now that I shoot 500-1000 rounds on a range trip I hate it. Mobile 1, Castrol, 10W, 5W, don't matter. They all burn and smell like fuck. It's properties impressed me when I used CLP. Now that I use good lubricants it's not even that good. Buy a $20 bottle of EWL. It's not expensive, will last a long time, and doesn't blow cancerous burning dinosaur ass in your face. With motor oil, the carcinogenic factor is a result of basic chemistry of the combustion process inside of the engine. The result of gasoline being combusted produce a lot of dangerous chemicals not only with oil, but mother nature as well. It's funny to me that you're worried about oil in a firearm that you use once in a while, but the car you used to drive there is probably killing you faster than any gun would minus a accidental/intentional shooting. In some parts of China, the smog is so thick and heavy that your life expectancy is nearly cut in half. In Los Angeles there are actual smog factors attributed to lower life expectancy. With that said, if you're so worried, you should be protesting at the auto factory, not some gun forum. So long as you're not changing your engine oil, and deciding instead of disposing of the oil, you'll use it as a gun oil, you should be safe with a new, unused motor oil pack. Anyway, back on subject, I haven't used automotive products for years on my gun. I find the grease you buy at the auto store to be the best stuff ever for an ar15. However, I now use gun specific grease. I tried Milcomm tw25b at first, and really loved it but felt it evaporated too soon in storage. I find the Tetra gun grease to be the best stuff ever made. It stays on in equal duration as I had when I used the automotive grease. A tub of Tetra grease I bought from 3 years ago hasn't gone down a bit. When I lube up a gun, it stays wet for a long time. I have one right now that I put tetra grease on during Christmas break last year and it's still thick and like the day I put it on there. |
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Posted: 9/22/2019 5:58:17 PM EDT
[#46]
I am a machinery engineer in a refinery, 38 years now, and what our machines go thru with Mobil DTE Light, essentially a 10 weight oil, is brutal. The cycling of a BCG is nothing compared, so I do not see why a quality motor oil will not work and work well.
With that being said, I am the biggest hypocrite for writing this, as I do not use motor oil, but after my supply of lubes do run out, I am switching. All of my vehicles have Mobil 1 and having this oil in my garage is like having bottled water in the fridge. I will be switching to 20/50 oil and synthetic Mobil 1 grease for all firearms lubrication. 77 |
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Posted: 9/27/2019 8:05:22 PM EDT
[#47]
I have a strong automotive background many other options are available I believe a pure synthetic atf would fair better plus petosin is a very hi quality synthetic mineral oil for transmissions, gear boxes and steering systems. Odorless all European car lines use it in many applicants and forms.
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Posted: 10/21/2019 9:32:21 PM EDT
[#48]
I was given 30 quarts of Shell w80 aviation oil in the old paper cans. It actually equates to SAE 40 in viscosity. HAn all petroleum based oil. Had to leave the hangar before an FAA inspection. Not really thick, but sticks to everything, and got to find some use for it. It’s made for air cooled engines, so operates at a higher temperature. Trying it on AR and other rifle actions and working well so far. I’m not a magazine dump shooter. After 150 rounds still have oil visible on bolt, just a bit grayer with burnt powder residue.
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Posted: 10/21/2019 10:06:19 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any of them are fine, modern ATFs are incredibly well-engineered. I personally picked up a quart of royal purple oil and ATF, just for the purple color. But that's purely cosmetic. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
@GlutealCleft any particular type/brand of synthetic ATF you recommend? I've got a couple bottles filled with ATF +4. ATF is really good for keeping stuff clean, and since it's being used in manual transmissions, it must have a decent shear strength. I've switched to Redline C+ ATF in the SRT, I have some left over and might use it for gun oil once I run out of the generic ATF +4 I was using in the 545RFE and 42RE. Redline is pure Ester base stock, really high quality stuff. |
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Posted: 10/21/2019 10:14:27 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most gun oils are mineral - so they would also be carcinogenic when they burn. Does anyone know of the burning lead from the back bullets being fired is bad, or the lead and mercury from the primers is safe????? How about following the old truck that burns more engine oil than gas??? Or how about diesel trucks with the black smoke clouds??? I bet the 4 or 5 drops of oil I may smoke off really is not what is going to kill me. Best lube IMO... Harbor Freight "Super lube" (real thin layer) on all the shiny places. Then... Mobil 1 full synthetic on top - thicker stuff. Don't need to add any other crap in. Does not need to be super wet like CLP, because it will stick around. Talk about one slickery bolt!!! Best cleaner IMO... 1/3 mineral ATF, 2/3 odorless mineral spirits. Little shot of Kroil. Forget acetone, that stuff smells like hell, and I dont have a plastic build up problem in my rifle. Stuff is stupid cheap to mix. I have heard the whining that a small bottle of CPL is the right thing to use, and will last a long time. Screw that, I like to dump cleaner on and scrub with an old toothbrush.... I go thru a lot of my cleaner. Cuts carbon and crap good and fast, works better than store bought CLP. Smell is not that bad. A rag and compressed air gets most off. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving a thin layer of ATF for rust protection. |
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