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Posted: 9/6/2018 5:04:25 PM EDT
How many here regularly use motor oil as a lubricant on their ARs? I'm down to my last 2/3rd bottle of issue CLP and motor oil is fairly cheap.
Any long term effects noted from use? Can it be used as a cleaner? How have the rust preventative qualities been? I'm considering trying some Rotela T6 since I usually some left over after I change the oil in my truck |
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I use cheap 5w30 in place of gun oil. Has worked fine for years.
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My GFs dad and I do vehicle maintenance for our elderly neighbors and we always have leftover oul. So I just combine em into a vat and use it for lube on all my guns. It's cheap, because it costs my time to get it, but it works well and I have lretty much an unlimited supply for all my firearms and my friends firearms. No issues at all with it.
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Mobil 1 full synthetic. Used it for years, never hand any problems. I've switched to cherry balmz, the stuff is simply better.
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Mobil 1 5w30
works great . . . been using it for several years cheaper than CLP |
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I got the idea on here years ago to try Mobil 1 and have used it ever since. Works great on my ARs and my pistols, everything that turns actually. I use Hopes or CLP for occasional cleaning though.
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I use expensive motor oil which is still cheap gun oil. It’s amsoil Z-Rod 10w30. It’s a high Zinc formula for some of my antiques. If you understand how solid lifters work, it makes sense that this lube is well suited for firearms. My fleet of SR15’s/SR25’s seems happy. The high flash point of this given synthetic is a plus too.
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Works great for machine guns. Very slick stuff compared to gun oil. Try not to get it on your grips and stocks though, makes the gun slippery, ha
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All the left over Mobil 1 from my oil changes goes into the gun oil bottle. I supply Mobil 1 gun oil to two sons and a nephew.
No issues on handguns, rifles or shot guns. Used as lube and as rust preventive coating for the steel parts whether blued or parkerized. I used Hoppes#9 or Black Off for cleaning. |
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ive used just about every type of lube there is.....CLP, RemOil, Frog Lube, WD40, Air-tool oil, 3-in-1, Teflon, motor oil, ect.
honestly i couldnt tell a difference between any of them....all perform exactly the same. i just use 50/50 mix of 10w30 and Motorkote....only reason i added the motorkote is because i had it on hand and figured "why not"....works as well as anything else ive used. if im going to be in rain or around salt water, like i am with my duck guns, i will wipe down the exterior with Frog lube.....its great for corrosion. the only reason i dont use it in my guns is because its non-petroleum based...and if i have to borrow lube in case i run dry, its likely going to be petroleum based, and i dont want to mix lubes encase theres any unwanted reaction |
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Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin.
Works great even in rain and sub 32 degree weather. |
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Quoted:
How many here regularly use motor oil as a lubricant on their ARs? I'm down to my last 2/3rd bottle of issue CLP and motor oil is fairly cheap. Any long term effects noted from use? Can it be used as a cleaner? How have the rust preventative qualities been? I'm considering trying some Rotela T6 since I usually some left over after I change the oil in my truck View Quote For me one of the biggest potential downfalls of motor oil is the smell. If it is going to make my AR smell like an old 1946 Packard engine then I have no interest in it. To me Mobil 1 synthetic has a car oil smell. Valvoline synthetic is even worse. I settled on the Rotella T6 mainly because it smells less like nasty motor oil than all of the other ones that I sniffed. And, brother, I sniffed a lot of motor oil. The T6 works as well as any other oil I've ever used on ARs and better than many of the thin ones that run into the buffer tube during storage. The T6 is a heavier oil and while it still runs, it is not as bad as the light oils like Breakfree or Slip 2000 EWL for example. Give it a shot, I don't think you'll be disappointed. |
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Motor oil is fine to use on a ar15. Just don't use USED motor oil as they contain carcinogens.
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Just poured me some T6 into one of my little empty LSA bottles. I'm gonna have to admit that using it to clean my CZ PCR was much less messy than the CLP I normally use. Smells about the same really.
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Never noticed my safe stinking. Sometimes motor oil migrates after prolonged storage. Not to drift thread, but I’m leaning more and more to greases due to this.
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Used Mobile 1 and Marvel Mystery Oil mixture for years. Tried Cherry Balmz and am using this now.
The mixture is on stand-by. |
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Bought 30 cases of Wolf Black Box Poly about 15 years ago. Stuff was notable for non-ferrous projos (good) and the lowest chronograph velocities (bad) among Russian steel imports. The low power level (bad) translated directly as dirt, worse than any ammo we've used before or since.
Have about 5 cases left, rest has gone downrange at MG shoots. Of note, "rounds fired till it chokes" with this stuff is at least an order of magnitude less than seen with about any brass cased M193/M855. Which means the ammo makes it easy to test/compare different lubes. Using CLP figure on 500 rds BB till something stops or needs forward assist. M1syn doubles that figure. Just about exactly, and reproducibly. We've used 0W-10 and 5W-20. Lately been using Rotella T6 5W-40. Did so on the basis of reports here a few years back. Compared the M1syn the T6 seems to keep the carbon softer and easier to scrape. Otherwise see no difference. That "easier to scrape" part is why son and I now use it on our Beretta 391s, too. I don't know why I'd prefer even 0W-20 as a solvent. It's just messier than CLP. As for rust prevention can't comment - don't live near salt water. |
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Quoted:
Bought 30 cases of Wolf Black Box Poly about 15 years ago. Stuff was notable for non-ferrous projos (good) and the lowest chronograph velocities (bad) among Russian steel imports. The low power level (bad) translated directly as dirt, worse than any ammo we've used before or since. Have about 5 cases left, rest has gone downrange at MG shoots. Of note, "rounds fired till it chokes" with this stuff is at least an order of magnitude less than seen with about any brass cased M193/M855. Which means the ammo makes it easy to test/compare different lubes. Using CLP figure on 500 rds BB till something stops or needs forward assist. M1syn doubles that figure. Just about exactly, and reproducibly. We've used 0W-10 and 5W-20. Lately been using Rotella T6 5W-40. Did so on the basis of reports here a few years back. Compared the M1syn the T6 seems to keep the carbon softer and easier to scrape. Otherwise see no difference. That "easier to scrape" part is why son and I now use it on our Beretta 391s, too. I don't know why I'd prefer even 0W-20 as a solvent. It's just messier than CLP. As for rust prevention can't comment - don't live near salt water. View Quote |
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Quoted:
How many here regularly use motor oil as a lubricant on their ARs? I'm down to my last 2/3rd bottle of issue CLP and motor oil is fairly cheap. Any long term effects noted from use? Can it be used as a cleaner? How have the rust preventative qualities been? I'm considering trying some Rotela T6 since I usually some left over after I change the oil in my truck View Quote It helps keep the carbon in suspension, but is not a substitute for use as a cleaner. It has decent rust prevention, but not as good as some others. Keep your weapon clean after rain or other exposure, lightly lube and it will not rust. |
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I've been using the same Qt bottle of Mobile 1 for the last 8 years. Still have a ton left. Works great.
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T6 is my go to.
I don't use it as a cleaner. While I don't shoot thousands of rounds a week I do shoot regularly and am perfectly satisfied with it. I put some in a little squeeze bottle with a metal needle looking tip and apply with that or a Q-tip. |
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Works great as a lube, rifle cleans up easily.
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Quoted:
Mobil1 full synthetic been using for years. View Quote I use Hoppes #9 to clean, but the Mobil 1 makes cleaning easier than Breakfree. It seems to keep the carbon in suspension instead of allowing it to cake and bake in. Wipe off most of it, hit the rest with a brush soaked in Hoppes, wipe off after a bit and relube. |
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Mobil 1 full synthetic. I have been using it for years. I use the same stuff that goes in my vehicles.
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I wish I knew about motor oil and brake cleaner when I was in the Army.
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I use any brand synthetic multi viscosity ( 10w30 5w30 10w40 etc) motor oil.
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With such an undemanding application as a firearm- specifically an AR- any motor oil you could think of will work. I keep a bottle of Mobil 10w40 in the garage and have used that on all my guns, but I prefer Magnalube grease simply because grease stays put and that one has better corrosion prevention capability (which, admittedly, is not a huge issue here in the desert).
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Shot 100 rounds per rifle thru two rifles this weekend, each lubed with Mobil1 0W-40. Both performed flawlessly.
Cleanup was easiest I have ever done. I suspect the oil is engineered to suspend carbon in it? |
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Quoted:
Any long term effects noted from use? View Quote Can it be used as a cleaner? View Quote How have the rust preventative qualities been? View Quote |
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WalMart 30W, same thing I burn in the engine. I uses Hoppes #9 for cleaning.
The Army uses CLP as cleaner AND lubricant, then the armorer demands you turn in the weapon dry as a bone. OK! |
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Quoted:
WalMart 30W, same thing I burn in the engine. I uses Hoppes #9 for cleaning. The Army uses CLP as cleaner AND lubricant, then the armorer demands you turn in the weapon dry as a bone. OK! View Quote |
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MobileOne here - was turned onto it via ARF when I was first getting into ARs and its worked great
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Also, one more note: If you want to try something fun, try 50/50 synthetic motor oil and synthetic transmission fluid. A lot of anti-wear agents, anti-corrosives, excellent boundary-layer lubrication, high dispersant agent content, ATF has a *lot* of things going for it that make it incredibly well-suited to being a firearms lubricant. The only real downside to it vs. motor oil is that motor oil is made for much higher temperatures. If you're running your gun so hard and heavy that you're smoking whatever lube you put on it, ATF would not the choice for you.
That being said, even when I have run ARs so hot that the oils on the outside of the barrel were smoking, a mix of 50/50 synthetic oil/atf has not let me down, after hundreds of rounds, there's still lube. You go home to clean it, and all of the carbon is suspended and/or dissolved in that lube, and just wipes away. Carbon that's suspended/dissolve in the oil is MUCH less abrasive than dry carbon stuck to metal surfaces! |
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@GlutealCleft
any particular type/brand of synthetic ATF you recommend? |
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