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Posted: 3/26/2018 11:21:57 AM EDT
Does anyone know if mineral oil can be used as a lubricant in a pinch with no problems ?
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Mineral oil is used to break in NEW reciprocating piston engines in aircraft all the time,,with a pilot in it!
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In a pinch I'd say so. I've used it in machine work occasionally.
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Transmission fluid probably would be a better choice due to thermal properties and additive package.
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Mineral oil is used to break in NEW reciprocating piston engines in aircraft all the time,,with a pilot in it! View Quote I’m working under the assumption the OP was referring to Medical or food grade mineral oil, which would work in a pinch, but probably not an ideal choice of lube for an AR. |
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Are you talking about the drug store mineral oils? Like Johnson's or some such?
If so, I'd imagine it would produce a very foul smell. Also if you use an AR15, I'd imagine the burnt carbon would create very unusual burn patterns. |
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Yes I'm referring to the type mineral oil you get at the drug store.
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Yes I'm referring to the type mineral oil you get at the drug store. View Quote In any event, it's unclear why you'd want to buy mineral oil at the drug store to use on your firearm. At the very same store, and probably for the very same price, you can buy cheap motor oil and it would do a heck of a better job. |
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I have some I bought for other uses. I was just wondering if it could be safely used on my AR in case of an emergency. I didn't buy the mineral oil for gun lube I was just wondering if it could be used in an emergency
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Considering that's all Hoppe's #9 in the orange bottle is, I'd say it's fine.
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Considering that's all Hoppe's #9 in the orange bottle is, I'd say it's fine. View Quote There are plenty of lubrication that uses mineral oil or a combination of but that doesn't mean you can pick up a bottle of mineral oil from the baby isle and use it. It's going to burn and stink to high heaven. |
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I have had the same question about using the drug store mineral oil on guns. Like someone above said, Hoppe #9 gun oil list the ingredient as "mineral oil". My question is if this is the same mineral oil as the drug store variety. The reason that I ask is because the drug store mineral oil is odorless, perfect for deer hunting. In fact my go to gun oil during deer season is dead down wind which says it is odorless and also 100% mineral oil. Sure would be a lot cheaper buying the drug store variety if in fact they are the same.
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Assuming steel and polymer, it won't harm anything.
I don't think it has the best lubricating properties for firearms though. |
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Any oil is better than none. I ran a rifle 1k rounds using no line other than KY Liquid. It was a nasty, sloppy mess, but it worked. It burned off quickly and had to be added regularly.
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Quoted:
Any oil is better than none. I ran a rifle 1k rounds using no line other than KY Liquid. It was a nasty, sloppy mess, but it worked. It burned off quickly and had to be added regularly. View Quote |
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From my experience yes it could be along with multiple other household items from vegetable oil, lard in small amounts, olive oil and EVOO just to name a few. If you are looking for something for like TEOTWAWKI I would just get a few quarts of either motor oil, breakfree clp etc. I personally use Froglube CLP and their products but I also keep about a quart of breakfree CLP on hand too. I figure that if things ever get that bad to where I can't get CLP/lube I will just use motor oil etc. I have no connection to the above companies I merely use some of their kit. I hope this helps OP.
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KY is glycerine and thickeners - there is no "oil" in it at all. They make it that way specifically so that it is water soluble. View Quote All I’m saying is lube is lube. Some is better than others, but as long as you use something, you’re good to go. Might just need to use a little more and a little more often with some. |
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So you're saying Hoppes #9 lubricating oil?
Yes, that's all it is. The old standard used by our great grandparents for decades. |
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So you're saying Hoppes #9 lubricating oil? Yes, that's all it is. The old standard used by our great grandparents for decades. View Quote 77 |
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Quoted: You know, that brings back some suppressed (not the Dead Air type) memories, when I started shooting, 1972, could barely afford 45 cent box of .22s at TG&Y and had to use 3 in 1 oil in dads shop for lube oil. Also used Quaker State 30 weight in the can, that is all I had....did clean with No 9 though. 77 View Quote Kerosene and alcohol have been a standby by for decades as a cleaner for guns. Glock even suggests using a kerosene based cleaner. |
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Does anyone know if mineral oil can be used as a lubricant in a pinch with no problems ? View Quote I would think automobile engine oil would be easier to obtain, in a pinch, and work better..... |
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Yep......that’s correct. All I’m saying is lube is lube. Some is better than others, but as long as you use something, you’re good to go. Might just need to use a little more and a little more often with some. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Yep......that’s correct. All I’m saying is lube is lube. Some is better than others, but as long as you use something, you’re good to go. Might just need to use a little more and a little more often with some. Originally Written by Pat Rogers for SWAT Magazine:
I have used every type of lube imaginable, going from WD-40 (especially good when you have a dirty gun), to 3 in 1 oil, suntan lotion, butter and even Vagisil — don’t laugh, it works. |
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Maybe have been a little different then, but now Hoppes Number 9 cleaner (not lube, not the Elite) is about 45% kerosene, 45% denatured alcohol, 5% ammonia, and 5% banana oil (for the smell). Kerosene and alcohol have been a standby by for decades as a cleaner for guns. Glock even suggests using a kerosene based cleaner. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: You know, that brings back some suppressed (not the Dead Air type) memories, when I started shooting, 1972, could barely afford 45 cent box of .22s at TG&Y and had to use 3 in 1 oil in dads shop for lube oil. Also used Quaker State 30 weight in the can, that is all I had....did clean with No 9 though. 77 Kerosene and alcohol have been a standby by for decades as a cleaner for guns. Glock even suggests using a kerosene based cleaner. High grade automotive or diesel engine oil, especially synthetic, is an excellent AR lube and quite inexensive compared to gun oils. |
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Quoted: Hoppes #9 is a cleaning solvent, NOT a lube. Kerosene and alcohol do not have good lubrication properties. High grade automotive or diesel engine oil, especially synthetic, is an excellent AR lube and quite inexensive compared to gun oils. View Quote |
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Quoted: Hoppes #9 is a cleaning solvent, NOT a lube. Kerosene and alcohol do not have good lubrication properties. High grade automotive or diesel engine oil, especially synthetic, is an excellent AR lube and quite inexensive compared to gun oils. View Quote Hoppes #9 is not a single product, it never has been. It's a line of products. Of cleaners and lubricants. Cleaner, light oil, some grease back in the day. This is all Hoppes #9... http://www.hoppes.com/traditional In the past there were other products that have been replaced and many have been added. |
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Used mineral oil as a lube when sharpening speed skates. It helped the sharpening stone move along the blade but didn't keep the stone from taking metal off the skates. I think I would want something different if I was trying to protect metal from wear.
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I would think automobile engine oil would be easier to obtain, in a pinch, and work better..... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Any oil is better than none. I ran a rifle 1k rounds using no line other than KY Liquid. It was a nasty, sloppy mess, but it worked. It burned off quickly and had to be added regularly. View Quote Larry |
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I have learned that food quality mineral oil is the preferred protectant on knives that are used in food prep.
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I've been using pure food grade mineral oil for years and it works great. It's also safer for my health than other options and that's a big plus to me.
I use Hoppe's #9 bore cleaner on patches for the bore, CLP to clean the bore after that and then to clean elsewhwere on the gun. After the CLP solvents evaporate after at least several hours, I then lube the entire gun with mineral oil, including plastics such as Magpul stocks, grips, and handguards but only lightly enough to keep the plastic healthy, not slippery wet. Don't knock it until you've tried it. It flat works. I just don't leave any lube in the chamber, bore, bolt face, firing pin/firing pin channel where it can contaminate the ammunition and/or cause firing pin issues. It works extremely well and has no smell and doesn't have any flaws that I've found yet. In many firearm products, mineral oil is the primary ingredient. I use nitrile gloves, quality paper towels, and q-tips. Have you seen the fingers/hands of some people who get a lot of various gun products on the hands often? Hickock45 is a good example with the ballistol. They shrivel up from where the solvents are defatting their hands. Use nitrile gloves and save your hands. |
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In a pinch yes. Long term no. There are much better choices for gun lubrication out there.
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I use nitrile gloves, quality paper towels, and q-tips. Have you seen the fingers/hands of some people who get a lot of various gun products on the hands often? Hickock45 is a good example with the ballistol. They shrivel up from where the solvents are defatting their hands. Use nitrile gloves and save your hands. View Quote Ballistol ingredients Mineral Oil Potassium Oleate Ammonium Oleate Oleic Acid Benzyl Alcohol Amyl Alcohol Isobutyl Alcohol Benzyl Acetate Anethole (AKA Anise, the smelly part) Isohexane (aerosol only) And to answer the OP's question. Yes, mineral will work as a gun lube, and has done so for over 100 years. |
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Used mineral oil as a lube when sharpening speed skates. It helped the sharpening stone move along the blade but didn't keep the stone from taking metal off the skates. I think I would want something different if I was trying to protect metal from wear. View Quote |
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Best AR lube for BCG, trigger assembly, and buffer spring I have found.
Stays on where you put it, does not burn off or smell bad. Stuff is loaded full of moly, and a little goes a long way. I use synthetic oil for all pivot points and barrel. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/red-80312/overview/ |
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