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Posted: 1/20/2023 10:45:58 PM EDT
I recently took my SBR out to the range to shoot some low light / no light..?.. steel plinking. I’m just now getting into low light carbine applications. I’m running a Arisaka 300 via a Proctor Mlok mount, and while I really like the ergos of this setup, it really casts a noticeable shadow of the can.
With that said, I’m currently utilizing a Nomad on a Xeno mount and I’m also about 7 months deep on my eform 4 for a Keymo Sierra 5, which will become a dedicated can for said rifle. Do I wait for the Sierra to clear and see how the situation plays out or should I explore different mounting solutions? Or should I chalk it up to a training (or lack there of) issue?  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/20/2023 11:57:15 PM EDT
[#1]
I have been looking at this -
T.REX Lightbar Scout Mount https://www.trex-arms.com/store/Lightbar-Scout-Mount/ 
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Posted: 1/21/2023 12:21:49 AM EDT
[#2]
With tailcap activation, going further forward may be awkward. You may be in the market for a hot button, modbutton, pressure pad, etc. to keep the control near your support hand. On the plus side, you can run it up top and your light control becomes ambidextrous.
Take a look at Haley's Thorntail or the Magpul cantilever scout mount to get you around that can if you want to push the light forward. |
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Posted: 1/21/2023 9:18:11 AM EDT
[#3]
Ideal shadow placement would be even to suppressor end cap but then with no suppressor its pretty awkward. I have mine equal with the muzzle device end and I feel thats a good balance. I use an arisaka mount and mod button.
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Posted: 1/21/2023 9:26:44 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have been looking at this - T.REX Lightbar Scout Mount https://www.trex-arms.com/store/Lightbar-Scout-Mount/ https://img.trex-arms.com/wp/uploads/2019/10/T.REX-Lightbar-3624-1500x844.jpg This would be first suggestion, but the Nomad is a fat can and I’m not sure the light bar would clear it. |
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Posted: 1/21/2023 10:59:45 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: I have been looking at this - T.REX Lightbar Scout Mount https://www.trex-arms.com/store/Lightbar-Scout-Mount/ https://img.trex-arms.com/wp/uploads/2019/10/T.REX-Lightbar-3624-1500x844.jpg Quoted: This would be first suggestion, but the Nomad is a fat can and I’m not sure the light bar would clear it. Hmm, that looks like an interesting solution. I think I might try to run the Sierra 5 before I drop the coin for a new mount and some sort of remote activation. However, I do like the thought of the Unity Hot button. What’s the go to tail cap optionI should I explore this route? |
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Posted: 1/21/2023 11:21:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hmm, that looks like an interesting solution. I think I might try to run the Sierra 5 before I drop the coin for a new mount and some sort of remote activation. However, I do like the thought of the Unity Hot button. What’s the go to tail cap optionI should I explore this route? Surefire UE (remote switch only) or DS (remote switch + clicky switch) tailcaps. With the Sierra, the lightbar should be fine as it’s 1.5” diameter vs the Nomad at 1.735”. I’ve not used a lightbar + Nomad setup so it may be fine, but based on your pics it looks like it may cause interference issues. |
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Posted: 1/21/2023 9:16:58 PM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 1/22/2023 11:32:54 PM EDT
[#8]
Thanks for the help and suggestions. Now I have some decisions to ponder.
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Posted: 3/23/2023 9:45:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Revisiting this thread..
Experiences? Welp..that went a completely different direction  I went and ordered an Arisaka offset scout mount and a Surefire DS-SR07 setup.
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Posted: 3/26/2023 6:52:46 PM EDT
[#10]
I dont have issues with my streetlight hlx on a arisaka mount, there is a "shadow" I guess id say, but nothing impeding the ID of what im aiming at.
the bezel is just at the locking collar of the keymo mount of my sandman S if theres a clearance issue, you can go to ACE or truevalue for some small washers to bring the light off the mount for clearance, may need longer screws too, which they sell. ive done this and it works well. alumablack on the alum. washers, good to go. |
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Posted: 3/28/2023 10:29:15 PM EDT
[#11]
I hate my modbutton, not easy to activate and it makes my light flicker unless I use a strap to put pressure on the tail cap. I use the surefire pressure pad mount d to my top rail without issue.
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Posted: 4/8/2023 9:15:12 AM EDT
[#12]
Much mo’ betterer
 Attached FileI bought and tried a DS-SR07 setup (now in the EE) and didn’t like it at all. I guess I’m in the minority but I much prefer the tail cap activation vs the tape switch on an AR. |
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Posted: 4/8/2023 10:30:31 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Much mo’ betterer https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/577174/0AA6741C-632D-4BA8-A89C-F66419DC162B_jpe-2774882.JPG I bought and tried a DS-SR07 setup (now in the EE) and didn’t like it at all. I guess I’m in the minority but I much prefer the tail cap activation vs the tape switch on an AR. The only downside if weak side shooting. If you’re shooting lefty, it gets awkward trying to activate the tailcap. A tapeswitch at 12:00 gives you ambi control. But, tapeswitches and wires are a failure point. It’s all about trade offs. |
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Posted: 4/8/2023 11:03:29 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The only downside if weak side shooting. If you’re shooting lefty, it gets awkward trying to activate the tailcap. A tapeswitch at 12:00 gives you ambi control. But, tapeswitches and wires are a failure point. It’s all about trade offs. That makes sense. I shoot with a thumb-over rail type grip and can still reach the button while shooting lefty. That’s one of the reasons I like the BCM rails, I can wrap my Girl Scout sized paw around the rail . I know it’s probably a training thing (I’ve only taken pistol classes) but I just don’t like the tapes, nd’s with white light being a thing with a tape is a real concern in my book. Again I need to take some carbine classes.
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