I’m Currently a bolt action guy for Predator hunting, but I’ve called in enough doubles and triples where the benefits of an AR are obvious. I’d bet a mortgage payment I’ll never shoot past 250 yards, it’s just to thick here. The gun will be a tripod gun when standing, and bipod when sitting. This would be my first build/assembly, so I have questions..

—what’s an MOA accurate upper to build around? I was looking at PSA/Primary Arms, and top budget being White Oak price point ~$650 or so

—aside from the trigger, is a lower really just a block of metal to bolt everything else too? Meaning, can I use an $85 PSA lower and still get full potential out of a “good” upper?

—I’d prefer a complete upper and complete lower, the only thing I could see myself swapping is a trigger if necessary. I don’t want a project, I want a reliable tool

—recommend upper/lower manufacturers that you are happy with. This isn’t a weapon that will see thousands of rounds a year in training, it’s a hunting rig that might see 100 rounds a year at most. I’m trying to find the balance point of budget and “precision “

https://moriartiarmaments.com/ar-10-.308-6.5-cm/complete-guns-2/rifles/.243-win/ma-10-.243-win-moriarti-armaments-20-semi-auto-rifle-stainless-ma243sniper-20

Every AR I've ever had would do fine on varmints out to 250. I'd just buy PSA stuff and roll with it. I do enjoy nice triggers so if you have one you prefer go with that. Can't go wrong with White Oak if that's in the budget. There isn't going to be much if any performance difference on the various lowers outside of ambi controls etc outside of that it's mainly aesthetics. A PSA lower with a White Oak upper would be a great value high performer.

You want to save some bucks something like this https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-mid-length-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-13-5-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-nickel-boron-bcg-ch-5165449606.html that is on sale would probably be just fine.

Sounds like you want a complete rifle, to me.  The barrel is the heart of accuracy.  Buy a good one and build around that, or have someone put it together for you.  

Legos....Lays....one is not enough

Would the 1:7 be an issue with my 55gr ammo? That seems fast

Nope lots of people shoot 55 through 1:7.

Disappointed.  Came here to see which gun from the movie Predator OP was building.  :(

I’ve failed you

No

To add,  if your looking for a predator specific upper,  I would take a look at Dtech uppers.  Mike Milli builds around Shilen barrels and trued receivers. Has a great reputation over at predatormasters

here is what rock river arms offers:

I have a lot of time doing what you are doing.  Just my opinion, if I had $1000 to spend, I would buy a suppressor rather than a semi.

I’ll buy both

Looks like he makes some phenomenal stuff. I just wonder if I need to spend $1000 on an upper if I am never going to be shooting past 250 yards.

this

hoping for a belt fed.  i am dissapoint

I would factor a suppressor at some time in the future.  

Get a 16 inch barrel for this project.  And consider a pencil thin barrel.  The gains in accuracy of a bull (or fluted bull) over a pencil are apparent mainly after a long string of rapid fire.  A pencil will be lighter, cheaper.  A real .223 chamber, then Wylde, then Nato.  In that order.  Cheap handguard will save money.  No need to pin the gas block.  No need for anything slicker than phosphate bolt carrier group.  

You can get a 1.5 MOA, lightweight upper that will do what you need for pretty little money.  If you are specific and do your homework.

(Save $75 for a trigger.)

Definitely suppressing this gun and my bolt gun by next year. Can you explain why a true 223 chamber is preferred over a wylde? Some guys recommend the opposite

There are no perfect answers.  Only tradeoffs.

For your stated purpose, you will not need the capability to shoot bulk nato ammo.  You will also not need to shoot 68-90 gr bullets.  When you go 223, you give up those options in return for a shorter throat.  Your shorter throat will (probably) shoot lighter, shorter bullets better than would a longer throat.  35-50 gr bullets is probably the range you will use.  A 223 chamber is optimized for this.

My 2 cents, if you never plan on running 5.56 bulk, get a proper .223 chamber.  That said, I have 5.56 chambered guns that shoot my .223 bolt gun handloads within moa or better.  And, some that won't

A .223 barrel will likely cost more because they aren't mass produced in the numbers as 5.56

If you 100% plan to use a suppressor, you might even consider a pin and weld mount so you can drop even more weight.

I have absolutely no plans to shoot bulk ammo. This will strictly be a hunting rifle.. Thanks for clarifying the difference between barrel types.

I have never been in the market for a .223 chambered barrel, so I don't know if they are available for anything other than a heavy 20 inch service match rifle.  Good look in your search.  I have what is generally regarded as Colt's most accurate AR rifle.  It has a true .223 Rem chamber.  If you can't find a .223 Rem chambered barrel/upper, I would not hesitate to use a Wylde chamber.

His uppers start at $600

I'd start here for some Ideas:

SONS OF LIBERTY GUN WORKS M4-EXO3 .223 WYLDE MATCH RIFLE - 16"

16INCH CRITERION HYBRID RIFLE, .223 WYLDE, M-LOK™

Customizable RECCE Rifle

Hard to go wrong with the bcm elw upper or Daniel defense

I do prefer building like you but you need to make sure you have the vision to compete it

The main areas people go wrong on their first builds are weight preferences, length preferences, accuracy preferences.

You need to be honest about what you want and what your budget is

I have some pretty set ideas on what I want in an AR15. I do tend to go a little heavy on weight. I have a White Oak 204 Ruger Barrel, a Krieger 5.56 Barrel, a Compass Lake 6.5 Grendel Barrel, Saturn/Liberty 22 ARC Barrel, and a Shaw 300 HAM'R Barrel. In my experience a better quality barrel will normally shoot better. I have a pretty good idea that your idea of accuracy is not Minute of Beer Can at 100 yards. You will not be happy with a gun that will not shoot under MOA. Also keep in mind an AR is not a Bench Rest Bolt Gun. If your hunting AR will consistently shoot .5 MOA - .75 MOA you are doing pretty well. You can probably live with One Inch Groups. Bigger than that I am not smiling. You might need a few rounds down range to get it to shoot it's best. My Shaw 300 HAM'R Barrel started shooting better when I went past 100 rounds. It was getting close to being sold before it started shooting smaller groups.

The next thing is a Trigger. I have a JP in my Colt Carbine (Installed by JP), an older Jewel in my 22 ARC, and Stern Defense Cassette Triggers with lite springs installed in all of my later builds. The Stern Defense Triggers with the Lite Spring installed are around 2.5#.

Scope Mount. I have the Leupold MK AR 30mm Cantilever Bases on all but my 22LR AR. On the 22LR I went with the Leupold MK AR Cantilever Riser, that used conventional Rings. I keep swapping Glass around on the 22LR. If you are hunting at night the mount required might be set by the sight. ZERO experience with late model night hunting optics.

I know that I am not normal. I have gotten away from Collapsible Carbine Stocks completely. I have ended up with MagPul MOE Rifle Stocks on everything. I like them, and they are sand bag friendly. The MagPul PRS Gen 3 is nicer, but I am happy with the cheaper MOE Stock.

Uppers and Lowers, I have a Colt Upper & Lower, a Rock River Upper and Lower older Matched Set, an Aero Upper, an early CMMG Lower, and Anderson's Uppers and Lowers.  My last build I used an Anderson Upper & Lower. The late model Anderson Uppers and Lowers I have used have been just fine. They are not loose, the finish on current uppers and lowers match well.

Handguards, Go MLOC. I have a Geissele MK IV x 13.5, an Aero Atlas R1, and several Stern Defense Handguards. If I were doing an Ultimate Build I would strongly consider a Geissele MK 8 (Check out their Barrel Nut) if they are ever back in stock. However I have been perfectly happy with the Stern Defense Handguards for the $$$. I have so far been happy with Yankee Hill MLOC Bipod Studs. My best bipod set up is a Badger Ordinance LPHM 1913 Rail Conversion to a Harris Bipod. This is for the Geissele MK IV handguard which has Three Inches of 1913 rail on the lower front of the handguard. It does not come loose.

Who ever you go with, get a Quality Barrel, and a Trigger that will go down below 3#. My barrel choice today would be White Oak or Saturn. Compass Lake is not a current option. No more custom orders.

Bob R

Around 25-30 years ago, this may have been a problem.  I recall seeing in a reloading manual "back then" regarding match bullets in faster twist barrels.  Most .223 match bullets years ago were made for use in a 1:12 twist barrel, and the thinner jackets would separate during flight with faster twists.  Since then, heavier bullet weights have been adopted by hunters and match shooters, and bullet designs have been improved.