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[#1]
I have a MK18 and I put my sling mount as far forward as possible
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[#2]
M-LOK QD socket mount on the forward-most slot, recommend using D-Ring QDs as they’re smaller in width than standard swivel loops.
Steel QD M-LOK Socket QD D-Ring |
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[#3]
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[#4]
Quoted: I'd go the other way. Same concept, but mounted near the receiver. I used to run them out at the end. I prefer them at the back now. Especially with a light. https://i.imgur.com/DfFs0zN.jpg View Quote This is my setup also. |
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[#5]
Something else to think about - I have a streamlight hlx rail mount (whatever the fuck) light. It is an incredible value for what you get, but there are a lot of complaints that their pressure switches fail. I actually prefer to use the tail cap button, so it never mattered to me. I'm not saying yours will fail. Just that it's something to keep in mind. I ended up mounting mine in an arisaka mount where it naturally just fell under my thumb. Worked great. It's now been moved on to my kid's AR, but it's still mounted in the same manor and still works great.
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[#6]
For shorter barrels I attach them closer to the receiver. For longer barrels I still like them as far forward as possible.
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[#7]
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[#8]
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[#9]
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[#10]
Quoted: Another suggestion... Since you're using a pressure pad, move the light to the right side of the gun...that'll put it out of the way as far as interfering with your offhand grip, the possibility of your sling getting tangled with it, and being in your FOV. View Quote This was my first suggestion Then pick your flavor of Mlok socket |
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[#11]
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[#12]
I don't have one, but, for a pistol, why not go with a single-point?
Maybe a clip-on type, at the rear of the lower? |
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[#13]
Quoted: I don't have one, but, for a pistol, why not go with a single-point? Maybe a clip-on type, at the rear of the lower? View Quote IMO, single point sling pro/cons: Pro's - Looks kinda cool Con's - Rifle hangs too loosely, can't snug up to body, can't climb over anything with two hands, sucks to walk very far with it, hits your balls when you switch to sidearm |
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[#14]
I'd mount it at that very last MLOK slot, at end if handguard, on outside (9 o'clock).
Just saw the post about single point. No way would I do that on that gun, ever. |
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[#15]
Quoted: IMO, single point sling pro/cons: Pro's - Looks kinda cool Con's - Rifle hangs too loosely, can't snug up to body, can't climb over anything with two hands, sucks to walk very far with it, hits your balls when you switch to sidearm View Quote Quoted: I'd mount it at that very last MLOK slot, at end if handguard, on outside (9 o'clock). Just saw the post about single point. No way would I do that on that gun, ever. View Quote Single point will slap your nuts off during transitions. It will happen. |
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[#16]
Quoted: Why? Does it make a big difference? All of my rails have a qd socket built in close to the receiver, that's what I use. Never tried anything else. View Quote As a general rule, I like to have my sling attachment points as far fore and aft as possible. It makes for a more stable sling. With shorter barrels comes shorter rails. Once I add a light w/ pressure pad and a BUIS, trying to attach the sling as far forward starts to get cramped, as seen in OP's photo. There's an open mlok slot there, but then you start pinching your hand between the sling and the rail, and it just generally starts to get in the way. This generally isn't an issue with longer rails as there's plenty of real estate between the front end of the rail and your hand. Attaching the sling further to the rear on a shorter rail (generally anywhere behind your support hand grip on the rail) gets the sling out of the way of my support hand. Most of my handguards have built in QD sockets near the rear as well. Sometimes I use those, other times I've added a QD socket in the mlok right next to it, just depends. I still want it as far forward as possible but with shorter rails it just attaches behind the support hand on the rail. Other setups work for other people. This is just what I've picked up in classes and our HTF 2-gun events and it works for me. |
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[#17]
Quoted: As a general rule, I like to have my sling attachment points as far fore and aft as possible. It makes for a more stable sling. With shorter barrels comes shorter rails. Once I add a light w/ pressure pad and a BUIS, trying to attach the sling as far forward starts to get cramped, as seen in OP's photo. There's an open mlok slot there, but then you start pinching your hand between the sling and the rail, and it just generally starts to get in the way. This generally isn't an issue with longer rails as there's plenty of real estate between the front end of the rail and your hand. Attaching the sling further to the rear on a shorter rail (generally anywhere behind your support hand grip on the rail) gets the sling out of the way of my support hand. Most of my handguards have built in QD sockets near the rear as well. Sometimes I use those, other times I've added a QD socket in the mlok right next to it, just depends. I still want it as far forward as possible but with shorter rails it just attaches behind the support hand on the rail. Other setups work for other people. This is just what I've picked up in classes and our HTF 2-gun events and it works for me. View Quote I'm gonna give it a shot with my 16" rifle this weekend. |
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[#19]
Quoted: Thanks ya'll for the advice. Light position is set up on the left side of my rifle because almost all the doors and corners that I will through in my house will have the light emerging first, then the barrel. If it was set up on the right side I'd be shining the wall as I cut the corners. I drew the 2 suggested mounting options on my picture. One is mounting the sling mount in front of my hand, which could cause pinching. The other is using the built in mount which will be resting under my hand. Do any of ya'll experience either issue with your set ups? Do you just endure it or suggest a difference? Pretty sure I won't go single point. I hate loose/swingy stuff. I guess one question I should ask is, how many of yall run slings on your HD rifle? This particular rifle is my main HD rifle which I keep in the bedroom. https://i.imgur.com/n2SAiFo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3prl0KA.jpg View Quote See my previous reply. I would go with “qd mount under hand” in this instance. I have a sling and a light on every gun I may use to defend my life. |
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[#20]
Quoted: Thanks ya'll for the advice. Light position is set up on the left side of my rifle because almost all the doors and corners that I will through in my house will have the light emerging first, then the barrel. If it was set up on the right side I'd be shining the wall as I cut the corners. I drew the 2 suggested mounting options on my picture. One is mounting the sling mount in front of my hand, which could cause pinching. The other is using the built in mount which will be resting under my hand. Do any of ya'll experience either issue with your set ups? Do you just endure it or suggest a difference? Pretty sure I won't go single point. I hate loose/swingy stuff. I guess one question I should ask is, how many of yall run slings on your HD rifle? This particular rifle is my main HD rifle which I keep in the bedroom. https://i.imgur.com/n2SAiFo.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3prl0KA.jpg View Quote A sling is essential. Try both mounting locations and see what works best for you. |
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[#21]
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[#22]
Quoted: A sling is essential. Try both mounting locations and see what works best for you. View Quote Common sense isn't welcome here. I mean really, it only takes a second to switch the sling position. Do some dry firing and practice your movements around the corners with the sling in different positions. This is the best way. What works for others might not work for you. |
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[#23]
Sling, light and some sort of appropriate optic on all fighting guns. Something to consider - You could get a cantilever mount and push that light further forward (and of course the VFG too) and then a rear mounted sling would be behind your hand instead of under. I set up my lights so they're just behind the ports on my muzzle device. Some people go further, some less. That's just my approach. Moving it there should give you just enough room and you can grab a mouth for under $50
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[#24]
As was mentioned earlier, as you're running a remote switch, swap the light to the opposite side. Throw a BFG u-loop through the fsb a-frame.
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[#25]
I prefer slings mounted at the rear of rail and rear of receiver. Keeps the sling away from my points of control/contact. Downside is less sling stability when using the sling.
I prefer tail cap light activation. It should not matter about what side the light is on because you should not have the light on until it is clear of the frame or corner and you are activating as you bite off what you can chew. You should be blipping the light to blind your opponent in a dark room before entering and moving in the darkness, only flicking some light into the room to see what you need to, trying to draw inaccurate fire into the open doorway before you enter. You should not be just leaving your light on and sliding a corner in one long motion unless you are rushing to active gunfire. That will get you killed clearing alone because it is easy to judge when you will emerge and be stuck on the X. You just lean which way you need, and change your light angle each time you blip. The shorter the blip and the more dark adapted your opponent the better it works. If you can see in a room without your light DONT use the light. |
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[#27]
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[#28]
So an update. No pictures currently.
I looked at the light mount and remembered why it was placed where it was. The mount juts a hair past the rail, but is prevented from being attached due to hitting the FSB. I dremiled the mount so it would clear FSB which allowed me to mount the light as forward as possible. I then ordered 2 Vltor sling swivels and a Forward Control Design sling. I have the sling in the handgaurd sling mount that's close to the receiver and the rear of the sling opposite side of the buttstcok. I really like this set up. The way my house is set up, I will need a light to illuminate a threat and the light will need to be either on the left or bottom of the forearm due to most of the walls I would PIE around would be from the right side, i.e. opening is on the left. |
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[#30]
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[#32]
Quoted: Another option that lets you put a sling anywhere you want, 550 cord. I ditched QDs years ago. Just a small piece with the ends singed tied with a double fisherman's knot to form a loop. Duct tape wrapped around to tighten it all up. https://i.postimg.cc/dVd8pXhB/IMG-0609.jpg You can also do it with longer pieces that wrap around the whole handguard like the Frank Proctor sling. (Not my picture) https://i.postimg.cc/Wbn3zcdz/IMG-0611.jpg View Quote I've thought about doing the 550 chord thing. sort of worry it could melt though I know that stuff is frigging durable. |
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[#33]
Quoted: I've thought about doing the 550 chord thing. sort of worry it could melt though I know that stuff is frigging durable. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Another option that lets you put a sling anywhere you want, 550 cord. I ditched QDs years ago. Just a small piece with the ends singed tied with a double fisherman's knot to form a loop. Duct tape wrapped around to tighten it all up. https://i.postimg.cc/dVd8pXhB/IMG-0609.jpg You can also do it with longer pieces that wrap around the whole handguard like the Frank Proctor sling. (Not my picture) https://i.postimg.cc/Wbn3zcdz/IMG-0611.jpg I've thought about doing the 550 chord thing. sort of worry it could melt though I know that stuff is frigging durable. On the first picture the loop is 1/2" or so from the barrel. So if the handguard was so hot it was melting, you couldn't even have the rifle slung at that point. |
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