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Posted: 9/23/2022 9:30:16 PM EDT
Had trouble easily compiling this information so I decided to post it all here in one place for anyone else's benefit. Feel free to interject if you feel any below value is incorrect. Also posting what I came up with for my theoretical holds with a 50 yard zero.
1.215" - AR Centerline of Bore to Rail 1.93" - Geissele or Reptilia AUS Mount .590" - Half of 30mm to determine additional Height to ROF-90 .34" - Reptilia ROF-90 for RMR thickness .533" - Center of RMR lens from the bottom of housing (provided by Trijicon) 4.608" - Total Height over Bore  |
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Posted: 9/23/2022 11:22:13 PM EDT
[#1]
Literally use a ruler. You could be a full inch off for a red dot and it'll move your MPBR maybe 5 yards. There's no need to use a 50 yard zero.
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Posted: 9/24/2022 12:37:20 AM EDT
[#2]
There's no need to use a 50 yard zero. |
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Posted: 9/24/2022 12:58:31 AM EDT
[#3]
Let’s make this simple…
Long story short, if you use a taller than typical optic height don’t be lazy and use a reduced distance zero/approximation… just zero your optic(s) at the actual full zero distance (ie: 100, 200, 300 yd/m) and the only notable difference you’re going to see is a slight difference than normal from muzzle to the first zero. And those differences will be a fraction of an inch (no big deal). It’s really not that hard; shoot 5-10 rounds, walk/drive down and take a picture, come back and shoot 5-10 more after adjustments. Repeat until you’re on target. Shouldn’t take more than a magazine to dial it in if you’re boresighted well. It’s even easier with a spotting scope and large shoot-n-see targets. |
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Posted: 9/24/2022 11:35:18 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Let’s make this simple… Long story short, if you use a taller than typical optic height don’t be lazy and use a reduced distance zero/approximation… just zero your optic(s) at the actual full zero distance (ie: 100, 200, 300 yd/m) and the only notable difference you’re going to see is a slight difference than normal from muzzle to the first zero. And those differences will be a fraction of an inch (no big deal). It’s really not that hard; shoot 5-10 rounds, walk/drive down and take a picture, come back and shoot 5-10 more after adjustments. Repeat until you’re on target. Shouldn’t take more than a magazine to dial it in if you’re boresighted well. It’s even easier with a spotting scope and large shoot-n-see targets. With a ballistic caclulator you should be able to get very close before shooting at distance. A 275 yard zero would work well at that sight height without too high of a midrange apex. At 50 yards you would just sight about an inch low. 
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Posted: 10/2/2022 9:45:59 AM EDT
[#5]
I appreciate all the input, I ended up going with a 1.54 Geissele mount and 2.5mm spacer for the RMR. Reptilia informed me this was specifically designed to clear the capped turret of an NX8 and it does.
Height over Bore is now 4.3164" 200 Yard Zero shows far more favorable holds.  
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Posted: 10/2/2022 9:49:08 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Literally use a ruler. You could be a full inch off for a red dot and it'll move your MPBR maybe 5 yards. There's no need to use a 50 yard zero. |
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Posted: 10/2/2022 10:38:49 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hell there's no need for all thatdata zero the thing at 25 yards and shoot noting POI out to about 60 yards. And I imagine after that it's all going to be about using the magnified optic. OP are you really intending to employ a piggyback RMR at 200 yards? Really?  Makes it pretty worthless beyone 50 |
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Posted: 10/2/2022 11:45:25 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hell there's no need for all thatdata zero the thing at 25 yards and shoot noting POI out to about 60 yards. And I imagine after that it's all going to be about using the magnified optic. OP are you really intending to employ a piggyback RMR at 200 yards? I honestly don't intend on using the RMR to shoot much beyond 50, but having the closest zero values at as long of a distance as possible is only a plus. Not to mention it can be used to quickly "spot" targets at distance, drop into the scope at near or full magnification and be zoomed into where the target is. |
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Posted: 10/2/2022 11:49:58 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I honestly don't intend on using the RMR to shoot much beyond 50, but having the closest zero values at as long of a distance as possible is only a plus. Not to mention it can be used to quickly "spot" targets at distance, drop into the scope at near or full magnification and be zoomed into where the target is. Exactly, no need to worry about holdovers as far out as you are likely to use it. |
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Posted: 10/4/2022 10:04:17 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hell there's no need for all thatdata zero the thing at 25 yards and shoot noting POI out to about 60 yards. And I imagine after that it's all going to be about using the magnified optic. OP are you really intending to employ a piggyback RMR at 200 yards? He’s right. Even for “pAssIVe” you aren’t seeing a threat at 200yds under nods through your RMR. Zero it a realistic distance 50 and learn your now ridiculous hold overs. Or use a normal height mount and put the red dot on top to get that high dot. |
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Posted: 10/5/2022 12:59:59 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: He’s right. Even for “pAssIVe” you aren’t seeing a threat at 200yds under nods through your RMR. Zero it a realistic distance 50 and learn your now ridiculous hold overs. Or use a normal height mount and put the red dot on top to get that high dot. Why not? I'm not saying you can PID people and things in their hands at that range without magnification, but you can see coyotes or hogs at that distance and lay down the hate. I zero everything at 100 yards. Even with my 12 mounted DPP-NV on top of my NX8/Badger C1, it was very funky when zeroed at 50 and then I backed up to 100. I would rather have the POI slowly rise up to height over bore as I move from 100 to 0, vs. having it "split" this distance in relation to this. It's just simpler to remember "hey, might wanna aim a hair low, I'm closer than 100..." vs. "crap...am I at 40 or 60?" This may sound dumb, but in some terrain and at night, I'll pass on bragging about my range eye-balling skills. |
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Posted: 10/5/2022 10:40:47 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why not? I'm not saying you can PID people and things in their hands at that range without magnification, but you can see coyotes or hogs at that distance and lay down the hate. I zero everything at 100 yards. Even with my 12 mounted DPP-NV on top of my NX8/Badger C1, it was very funky when zeroed at 50 and then I backed up to 100. I would rather have the POI slowly rise up to height over bore as I move from 100 to 0, vs. having it "split" this distance in relation to this. It's just simpler to remember "hey, might wanna aim a hair low, I'm closer than 100..." vs. "crap...am I at 40 or 60?" This may sound dumb, but in some terrain and at night, I'll pass on bragging about my range eye-balling skills. I'd wager 90% of folks on this board would fail the range estimation test in basic. With LRF's it isn't the task it once was, but you don't always have time for that. Decades ago the point blank zero method was introduced. Zero so the POI is no higher or lower than a few inches above or below line of sight. KISS. No worries about holdovers or holdunders, just point and shoot. Whether using NOD's or not, keep it simple. Zeroing a high mounted optic at short range makes it useless at distance, but zeroing same optic at distance will not hinder short range performance. |
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Posted: 10/6/2022 12:51:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd wager 90% of folks on this board would fail the range estimation test in basic. With LRF's it isn't the task it once was, but you don't always have time for that. Decades ago the point blank zero method was introduced. Zero so the POI is no higher or lower than a few inches above or below line of sight. KISS. No worries about holdovers or holdunders, just point and shoot. Whether using NOD's or not, keep it simple. Zeroing a high mounted optic at short range makes it useless at distance, but zeroing same optic at distance will not hinder short range performance. Exactly. The maximum I can shoot is 150 yards or so, due to terrain, on my property. I zero for 100. I am going to hit that coyote if I place the reticle COM and do my part. Not send bullets uselessly over him. With a 50y zero on my 12 mounted DPP-NV on my 1.54 NX8, I was taking head-shots while holding COM on 2/3 IPSC steel at 100 yards. That opened my eyes to things real quick! |
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