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FRT or S/S for AR10? (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 9/16/2025 11:40:28 AM EDT
| Hi has anyone tried a FRT or S/S in a AR10 platform? If yes which one works best? Any tricks? Thanks |
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The (GMR’s -green) SS supposedly works lights out for the Aero M5 receiver sets. Seeing that I just picked up a new set from Brownells that is clear anodized what was a man to do? Found a chrome bcg and charging handle for 159 on Labor Day sale. Then things started to happen. I found a grip that Q uses for their rifles and picked it up, and then I stumbled on an 8” Faxon Big Gunner 8.6 blackout barrel for 129 on close out at Modern warriors. I had the barrel, the clear anodized M5 receiver sets for 239, oh and somehow I had filed a form 4 for the Porq Chop I ran across. So here I am after finally paint matching the hand guard patiently waiting for my approved form 1 ready to slap Qs shorty stock on this monstrosity. I think I’ve gotten the buffer/spring situation figured out in that short buffer tube. If not I may break the gun, oh well. Anyway the point of my post is that if I don’t break the gun, then I’ll install the SS and waste 70 dollars or so per mag doing dumps. I’ll then kindly remove the SS and go back to my normal boring single shot mode that will hopefully let me financially recover from that range day. 
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| Mine is a Centurion Arms Gen 2 (ar10 not LR308) which from preliminary research should work. I see people running them on YouTube, there’s gotta be one that works. Grok told me to use the WOT, saying that it has the most success. But not sure how much I trust Grok. |
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Originally Posted By ParaBellum123: Is there a better option than the super safety for the AR10? My first GMR lever snapped, I guess there isn’t enough clearance. I’m wondering if another brand might work better. Your options are GMR or the Hoffman 308 lever. Those are the only ones I know of that work with the AR308s. Do you have a high shelf lower ? Pretty difficult to break the lever honestly unless its not set up right. |
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Originally Posted By NWRed: Your options are GMR or the Hoffman 308 lever. Those are the only ones I know of that work with the AR308s. Do you have a high shelf lower ? Pretty difficult to break the lever honestly unless its not set up right. Originally Posted By NWRed: Originally Posted By ParaBellum123: Is there a better option than the super safety for the AR10? My first GMR lever snapped, I guess there isn’t enough clearance. I’m wondering if another brand might work better. Your options are GMR or the Hoffman 308 lever. Those are the only ones I know of that work with the AR308s. Do you have a high shelf lower ? Pretty difficult to break the lever honestly unless its not set up right. Which AR platform is the GMR 308 lever designed for? It didn't work in my PSA gen 2. |
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Originally Posted By NWRed: what wasnt working with your PSA? Originally Posted By NWRed: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Which AR platform is the GMR 308 lever designed for? It didn't work in my PSA gen 2. what wasnt working with your PSA? The Grey Market Research 308 Super Safety, with a green trip lever. |
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Originally Posted By NWRed: It didnt reset the trigger? Originally Posted By NWRed: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: The Grey Market Research 308 Super Safety, with a green trip lever. It didnt reset the trigger? I'll take another look at it tomorrow. It's been a few months, and I don't want to relay the wrong information. What I think I remember is that it kept wedging the BCG in the rearward position while dry cycling. |
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Mine reset the trigger dry firing, it just snapped after a few function tests. I reached out to GMR, and it sounds like they might be sending out a new one. I’ve got a few GMR’s in regular AR’s. They’ve always worked great and I like supporting them, it’s just that lever snapping gave me pause whether the SS is the best option for the AR10. But based on the last few responses it sounds like they are likely the best and only option. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I'll take another look at it tomorrow. It's been a few months, and I don't want to relay the wrong information. What I think I remember is that it kept wedging the BCG in the rearward position while dry cycling. Bolt binding is extremely common with all supersafeties. the 308s require the upper be modified and you still may have bolt binding due to the bolt carrier going to far back. ive only done one 308 and i think i had to use quarters in it. the instructions they used to have on the website https://web.archive.org/web/20250328163706/https://greymarketresearch.net/m508-308-info-and-instructions/ 
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Originally Posted By NWRed: Bolt binding is extremely common with all supersafeties. the 308s require the upper be modified and you still may have bolt binding due to the bolt carrier going to far back. ive only done one 308 and i think i had to use quarters in it. the instructions they used to have on the website https://web.archive.org/web/20250328163706/https://greymarketresearch.net/m508-308-info-and-instructions/ https://web.archive.org/web/20250328163706im_/https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-xokow2oced/images/stencil/original/image-manager/img-20250316-163519142.jpg?t=1742240105 Also, there are only certain 308 BCGs that will work with the SS. There needs to be a specific length in the rear of the carrier for it to work. I believe PSA BCGs are one of the brands with the correct size, but I'd still measure to be sure. |
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I’ve gotten a lot closer with my PSA AR10. And I wish I had done some better reading beforehand, I wouldn’t have done so much cutting on my upper and lower receivers. Ultimately I shaved off a bit from the “face” of the trip lever. So it now functions in dry fire, sort of. I’m missing the spring that came with my green trip lever. It got lost the last time I was messing with this trigger. So now, when the BCG is pulled back all the way, the trip lever is pushed low enough that the BCG tail can’t engage it on the forward stroke anymore. Hence why that spring was there. Does anyone know if you can jury rig that spring? It looks awfully close to a disconnector spring. I’d prefer not to pay to have the spring shipped here, and I definitely don’t want to buy the 85 dollar cam/trip combo. It’s this spring. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I’ve gotten a lot closer with my PSA AR10. And I wish I had done some better reading beforehand, I wouldn’t have done so much cutting on my upper and lower receivers. Ultimately I shaved off a bit from the “face” of the trip lever. So it now functions in dry fire, sort of. I’m missing the spring that came with my green trip lever. It got lost the last time I was messing with this trigger. So now, when the BCG is pulled back all the way, the trip lever is pushed low enough that the BCG tail can’t engage it on the forward stroke anymore. Hence why that spring was there. Does anyone know if you can jury rig that spring? It looks awfully close to a disconnector spring. I’d prefer not to pay to have the spring shipped here, and I definitely don’t want to buy the 85 dollar cam/trip combo. It’s this spring. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/590787/IMG_2389_png-3659434.JPG @ELittlefield - If you just reach out to GMR they'll get back to you on that. My new lever is due to arrive this week. Their customer support helped me figure out a few things with how to set up the AR10, so I'll be interested to get it running. Overall, 10/10 on their customer support though. I'd just shoot them a message, I'm sure they'll take care of you. |
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Originally Posted By ParaBellum123: @ELittlefield - If you just reach out to GMR they'll get back to you on that. My new lever is due to arrive this week. Their customer support helped me figure out a few things with how to set up the AR10, so I'll be interested to get it running. Overall, 10/10 on their customer support though. I'd just shoot them a message, I'm sure they'll take care of you. Originally Posted By ParaBellum123: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I’ve gotten a lot closer with my PSA AR10. And I wish I had done some better reading beforehand, I wouldn’t have done so much cutting on my upper and lower receivers. Ultimately I shaved off a bit from the “face” of the trip lever. So it now functions in dry fire, sort of. I’m missing the spring that came with my green trip lever. It got lost the last time I was messing with this trigger. So now, when the BCG is pulled back all the way, the trip lever is pushed low enough that the BCG tail can’t engage it on the forward stroke anymore. Hence why that spring was there. Does anyone know if you can jury rig that spring? It looks awfully close to a disconnector spring. I’d prefer not to pay to have the spring shipped here, and I definitely don’t want to buy the 85 dollar cam/trip combo. It’s this spring. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/590787/IMG_2389_png-3659434.JPG @ELittlefield - If you just reach out to GMR they'll get back to you on that. My new lever is due to arrive this week. Their customer support helped me figure out a few things with how to set up the AR10, so I'll be interested to get it running. Overall, 10/10 on their customer support though. I'd just shoot them a message, I'm sure they'll take care of you. I reached out this weekend. They have one in the mail for me. Double plus one to their customer service! |
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Originally Posted By Dragracer_Art: Ive got a GMR SS (green trip) in my DPMS LR308 SBR and it works great. Had to all but shut the gas off with the suppressor screwed on though. I'm using a Flow through Huxwrx 762 Ti.  It's not any good for keeping the shooter hidden, or keeping him from having ringing ears, or keeping the grass from catching on fire in front of me, but damned if it doesn't keep the gas pressure the same! The one damn thing it does right...Does anyone have experience using a Magpul D50 with a Super Safety of any kind? |
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Originally Posted By HKH: It’s awesome isn’t it. Nothing like full frt 8.6 blackout suppressed. Whoever comes out with the ambidextrous atrius/arc/cornfed version for the large frame AR will be set for life. Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: It works.  It’s awesome isn’t it. Nothing like full frt 8.6 blackout suppressed. Whoever comes out with the ambidextrous atrius/arc/cornfed version for the large frame AR will be set for life. Agreed.  " /> " />
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Originally Posted By TheFaz: Mine is the green lever version, works without any issue once I trimmed the back of the upper like I do to my 5.56 SS guns. Where did you trim yhe upper for reliability? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By TxLewis: Where did you trim yhe upper for reliability? Thanks Originally Posted By TxLewis: Originally Posted By TheFaz: Mine is the green lever version, works without any issue once I trimmed the back of the upper like I do to my 5.56 SS guns. Where did you trim yhe upper for reliability? Thanks Scroll up and look at NWRed's post. The Upper on the left is trimmed, untrimmed on the right. |
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Hope this helps summarize everything above from someone. I'm running the Centurion Arms MK11 receiver set and it's awesome. My biggest issue was that I kept breaking levers due to inadequate clearance between the BCG tail issue and the rear of the receiver not being perfectly flush with the rear lug. If you make these modifications, be sure that the lug is completely flush with the receiver. On my first attempt, I thought I had the rear lug flush but there was just a tiny amount of overhang, and it was causing problems. 1) Ensure adequate lever clearance. I had to switch everything to my Gen 1 MK 11 lower because the Gen 2's are high shelf. Your other option would be to create the proper clearance with a Dremel like what Elittlefield did. Attached File 2) Swapped out a Blackhawk Armory NiB BCG for the Palmetto State Armory - this is because the tail of the BCG is shorter on the PSA. Attached File 3) File the rear of the receiver so that it is flush with the rear lug. If you do this and the lever is still getting pinched, use a file or Dremel to create a ramp or more like a 45-degree angle. According to GMR, this should be done before trying to remove material from the lever. Attached File |
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Worth keeping the thread going. I’m considering either using a Mega Maten or building a DPMS-pattern 308, and it does seem like there are reasons to have a C/L HBAR host for D50 magazines. I would prefer a cassette FRT system so I retain the external safety I’m familiar with. |
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Originally Posted By SSG-69: Worth keeping the thread going. I’m considering either using a Mega Maten or building a DPMS-pattern 308, and it does seem like there are reasons to have a C/L HBAR host for D50 magazines. I would prefer a cassette FRT system so I retain the external safety I’m familiar with. Based on my studies, the Rare Breed or Partisan would function in AR10s if the safety/trip lever at the rear stuck up just a tiny, tiny bit more. The BCG resets the trigger, and actuates the forced reset, it just can't quite disengage the safety to fire. |
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Glad to say that shitty Silver Bear steel cased ammo runs in this thing. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Based on my studies, the Rare Breed or Partisan would function in AR10s if the safety/trip lever at the rear stuck up just a tiny, tiny bit more. The BCG resets the trigger, and actuates the forced reset, it just can't quite disengage the safety to fire. How high would it need to be raised? Guesstimate? I’ve got an OG 2 position RB that wouldn’t care to weld on if I can get my Boombox to be full FRT ETA After I get off this zoom I’ll drop the Q trigger pack and pop in a FRT cassette trigger and see what it looks like. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: How high would it need to be raised? Guesstimate? I’ve got an OG 2 position RB that wouldn’t care to weld on if I can get my Boombox to be full FRT ETA After I get off this zoom I’ll drop the Q trigger pack and pop in a FRT cassette trigger and see what it looks like. Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Based on my studies, the Rare Breed or Partisan would function in AR10s if the safety/trip lever at the rear stuck up just a tiny, tiny bit more. The BCG resets the trigger, and actuates the forced reset, it just can't quite disengage the safety to fire. How high would it need to be raised? Guesstimate? I’ve got an OG 2 position RB that wouldn’t care to weld on if I can get my Boombox to be full FRT ETA After I get off this zoom I’ll drop the Q trigger pack and pop in a FRT cassette trigger and see what it looks like. I don't have a way to come up with an exact dimension. All I can say is that the tail of my BCG comes to rest exactly as far forward as it would need to in order to trip the cassette, but it sits just a fraction too high. It's probably on the order of a tenth of an inch. |
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Originally Posted By TheFaz: Grey market research makes one for the AR10 that works well. I put it in my BRN-10 and with a hydraulic buffer it runs well and is decently controllable for a 308. Hello! ik this is an old post but I also have a BRN-10A that i was thinking about putting an FRT in and love that I found someone (finally) who has done that exact thing!! couple questions tho -i noticed the bolt is about 2" flat, is that too short, did you have to change out the BCG? -did you have to change out the buffer? or was it more of a shootability thing? and if it was a shootability thing, was it actually god awful with the stock buffer (id imagine the sproinging noise was a bit much but i kinda like it lol) -did you have to modifythe upper any more than shaving it flush with the rear takedown lug? -finally and honestly most importantly, have you seen any effect on reliability? my brn-10 post break-in period has been an absolute workhorse, and id hate to sacrifice how steadfast that gun has been for a fun, money wasting setting lol ive been planning on making a retro-styled modern take on a BAR. ive mounted an optic to it and a harris bipod without really disrupting the overall look and i love it, would love to really seal it all together with an FRT (and maybe fabricating a barrel heatsink too) |
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Originally Posted By BadmanRastaGeneral: Hello! ik this is an old post but I also have a BRN-10A that i was thinking about putting an FRT in and love that I found someone (finally) who has done that exact thing!! couple questions tho -i noticed the bolt is about 2" flat, is that too short, did you have to change out the BCG? -did you have to change out the buffer? or was it more of a shootability thing? and if it was a shootability thing, was it actually god awful with the stock buffer (id imagine the sproinging noise was a bit much but i kinda like it lol) -did you have to modifythe upper any more than shaving it flush with the rear takedown lug? -finally and honestly most importantly, have you seen any effect on reliability? my brn-10 post break-in period has been an absolute workhorse, and id hate to sacrifice how steadfast that gun has been for a fun, money wasting setting lol ive been planning on making a retro-styled modern take on a BAR. ive mounted an optic to it and a harris bipod without really disrupting the overall look and i love it, would love to really seal it all together with an FRT (and maybe fabricating a barrel heatsink too) I replaced the BCG with a PSA as it was known to have the right length to function, and it does. The only mod to the upper was trimming it flush like you said, nothing else required. I put the hydraulic buffer in strictly for shootability. It is far softer and more comfortable to shoot with the kynshot. It will work with the stock buffer though. As for reliability, I haven't put a lot of ammo through it given the cost of it these days, but it's run 100% for the mags I have put through it. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My D50 arrived.  D50 goes brrrrt full of 405 grain 8.6 blackout  200 dollars for the best 6 seconds one could ask for |
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Originally Posted By HKH: D50 goes brrrrt full of 405 grain 8.6 blackout  https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w44G6TVx_zc |
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Originally Posted By HKH: D50 goes brrrrt full of 405 grain 8.6 blackout https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w44G6TVx_zcOriginally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My D50 arrived. D50 goes brrrrt full of 405 grain 8.6 blackout https://www.youtube.com/shorts/w44G6TVx_zcBruh |
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FRT or S/S for AR10? (Page 1 of 2)
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