Do I need to dimple my new Odin lightweight ( and it’s lightweight ) barrel for the gas block set screws? Handy enough with tools and looked at the SLR dimple kit but don’t want to screw things up. How do clamp on gas blocks work as far as reliability? Rather install it myself as I’ve had some terrible and I mean terrible gunsmithing done by some supposed reputable gunsmiths. Would a type of Locktite  alone hold the gas block screws in place and be enough to secure the gas block and still be able to remove the block at a future time or best to Locktite it permanently? Looking for easy / secure.

Thanks for any info you could share.

No.

If you plan on dimpling more barrels in the future, I'd get a jig.
I've started pinning my own now but used to just dimple and never had any issues with them backing out.

FPNI

One caveat, if it is going to be exposed and susceptable to impact I would dimple, or better yet - pin.  But if a lo-pro under a handguard there really is no reason to dimple.

Retro Arms Works or ADCO Firearms are highly reputable, reasonable and fast.

The lightest Loctite will work. It's purple 222, and needs to be ordered online, very few places would have it in stock. 242 Loctite is the standard and will work as well. It can be found just about anywhere. When Loctite gets too hot it turns into a white powder, but still does its job. Using heavier grade Loctite will create headaches upon disassembly.

Measurements matter. I use drill bit (the shaft) to determine the actual barrel gas port size, divide that measurement in two (2) to locate the center. Measure the distance from the barrel's shoulder to the drill bit (or pin gage) and record it. Add 50% of the drill bit's diameter to your measurement to find the center of the hole.

Do the same thing for the gas port hole in your gas block. Measure the gas block's edge facing the barrel's shoulder to the drill bit (or pin gage) and record it. Add 50% of the thickness of the drill bit or pin gage.

The difference is your offset from the barrel's shoulder. Gas block holes are large to compensate for some misalignment. Most functioning problems on new rifles is usually gas block alignment issues or reloaded ammo that doesn't fit inyour new rifle.

Yes, you need to dimple. Knurled set screw with rockset. Clamp-on blocks are notoriously prone to leakage. Cross pinned is bomb-proof installation (A-frame FSBs, AK barrel parts).

Or not, and it will shift around.

MHO.  Not imperative to dimple, but why not for a more solid install.  I have installed 1 YHM clamp on GB and probably 10 set screw LPGBs.  I mark center of gas port on the GB collar, put the GB with only front set screw on, centered with the gas tube hole and the mark, tighten the front screw to hold the GB, mark the rear set screw location with a center punch, remove the GB, drill the dimple, clean it all up and install the GB using Blue Loctite.  
I only dimple for the rear screw like many manufacturers do.  I have had no problems with any of them.  Also, I only have a hand drill, no drill press.  Nitride barrels require extra center punch strikes due to the surface hardness of nitride.

Not necessary if you clamp or set screw correctly. I torque, loosen and retorque set screws several times to create a dimple from the set screw alone on non predimpled barrels. The carbon from firing will bed and lock up the gas block to barrel.

If the set screw type is a tad bit loose on the barrel, try a different gas block, or perhaps better to just have it actually predimpled or pinned.

I send my dimple and pinning work to Adco, it's not much considering the upfront costs/space reqs of a drill press to do it properly, although some will use handtools for dimple work.

No matter what barrel manfac. i would check the guarantee aspect. I have heard that some will not stand by the MOA accuracy if it is a DIY dimple. But then again it depends on the manfac.

Yes absolutely

One small dimple opposite the gas port. Use a jig tool. The dimple helps ensure you install directly over the gas port. If your set screws have the 'round teeth' face they will cut into the barrel and make a donut which will position the gas block adequately without a dimple. This is the type you want for the front screw on the undimpled barrel. If your set screw does not have the teeth and is pointed, you MUST dimple. Also, no thread locker is needed, but more torque than you think is necessary IS needed. Once you get 200 rounds down the pipe and carbon stops leaking, the carbon itself will hold the block in place enough you will never need to worry again. Until then, the screws need a bit more torque than will make you comfortable. Rockett will just make removal nearly impossible and is not needed. P

EDIT: Perhaps if BOTH set screws were pointed and not the round toothed type I could see the need for Rocksett. A tiny amount.

I dimpled an 11.5 and 12.5 BA barrel using a KAC jig.  No change in accuracy noted. YMMV

Got any data to support that statement? I would like to read it, thanks.

Yeah. Not going to agree with that one either.
I've replaced 2 barrels with clamp on gas blocks. The barrels were shot out and accuracy was really degraded. When I pulled the clamp on blocks, I saw zero evidence of gas leakage.
Sample size of 2 for me.

I've used set screw type gas blocks a lot also. I have a Kaw Valley jig. I just lightly dimple and use a light amount of blue locktite.

yes

Years ago, I was in a Todd Jarrett class, and we were running our rifles pretty hard.

He watched me shoot an noted my rifle seemed undergassed.

I told him the rifle has always been 100% reliable.

few mins later, it was coughing and sputtering.

gas block had scooted forward, cutting off the flow

Glad I brought a spare rifle to the class

Did you install the gas block, or factory?  

I'll elaborate a bit, clamp-on blocks are more likely to leak than set screw or pinned. Set screw clamps the block onto the barrel at the 12 and 6 oclock, while perpendicular clamp at the 6 oclock pinches rather than clamps. Half n half clamp-on blocks like YHMs at the 3 and 9 oclock do the same force application as a standard set screw, so I'd give that the preference over pinch clamps.

Any gas block made of aluminum is trash, so I don't even troubleshoot them, straight to the bin. Dissimilar metals causes corrosion and wears exponentially faster.

I always dimple mine. I use a basic jig, a hand drill, and a carbide or cobalt bit. It’s so easy, I can’t believe that people are talking about sending their barrel somewhere to have it done.

Do the dimple closest to the shoulder. If you are confident that you’re not going to change the block, do both.

It’s cheap and easy insurance.

You could be right, but doesn't make sense to me. Think about how a set-screw design works: As one cranks in the set screws into the bottom of the block, the top of the gas block is pulled tight against the gas port hole, so far so good, but what happens to the rest of the block? The tightening set screws actually push the rest of the gas block AWAY from contact with the barrel. In that scenario, unless you're dimpling, a set-screw is not optimal cuz your metal-to-metal contact is at the top on the gas port area and then two tiny points of contact at the set screws.

A clamp-on gas block maximizes surface area friction contact with the barrel by wrapping around and evenly distributing clamping forces around the whole of the gas block journal. I'd bet a clamp-on gives you more overall metal-to-metal contact with the barrel than a set-screw design.

I completely agree.

There was also a test done where a wrench was welded to a clamp on block, and then force applied, the barrel ext pin sheared before the clamp on moved.

Problem with clamp ons, most don't fit well under most rails, short of that, far superior to set screws IMO.

Agreed. Here's one that does: https://ibb.co/pKqkxfm